Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options

Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1235737

Comments

  • Options
    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you already got it. if your vehicle won't start consistently unless you gingerly turn the key, you're probably looking at the need to replace the ignition switch / lock assembly. but you didn't indicate that you tried to lube or clean the switch with the materials suggested by mrbill or me.

    if it were me (and it's not - it's you), i'd probably remove power by disconnecting the battery, i'd hit the ignition switch with a bit of electrical contact cleaner (maybe available at Radio Shack) and let it evaporate/dry for a good 10minutes, then re-connect the battery and see if the operation of the switch became reliable again.

    if not, i'd probably get the switch / lock assembly replaced.
  • Options
    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Whatever you use to clean the lock, spray it in, stick the key in and out a few times, spray again, and work the key some more. Rotate the key a few times, not far enough to start the car, just enough to rotate it some. If you look at the key, it's probably dirty. Wipe it off, and repeat inserting-rotating-removing. The junk on the key is what you need to clean out.

    If you don't follow thru and try to clean the lock, or cleaning it doesn't work, then you probably will need to have the lock replaced.

    Mrbill
  • Options
    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    forgot the part about exercising the lock with the key in the process of lubing or cleaning. a good suggestion!

    my contention is spraying a contact cleaner in is better in this instance than a graphite based product because graphite would have no-where to go...it would be what i would use if the lock were hard to turn with the key...but probably not my first choice if i suspected the assembly itself was gunked and in need of cleaning.
  • Options
    miami007miami007 Member Posts: 2
    Many thanks for all your advice. My mom took her car to the Honda dealer in Miami and they took care of everything. She said the car runs great, now. :blush: She didn't realize it was running with such a drag until I told her. She is 85 so she is not driving at high speeds like I did on the Florida Turnpike. They did not give her a tuneup so I told her to take it back. How was that a part of the settlement?

    Thanks,
    Joan
  • Options
    sage96sage96 Member Posts: 3
    My 96 LX has 132,000 miles and the clutch is starting to grab or chatter a little. I'll call tomorrow for some repair estimates, but wondered if someone here has any idea what it should cost, and what is involved..........a friend said he thought the engine had to be pulled. Thanks for comments!
  • Options
    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    If Honda acknowledged your problem falling under the 98-081 service bulletin, than you're entitled to a free tune up at 75,000.It's written in the bulletin (which I recommend, again, that you ask to get it printed for you to keep for future years).
  • Options
    angelbyrdangelbyrd Member Posts: 26
    I gave the electronic contact cleaner a try, it was pretty cruddy in there. I worked they key around a few times cleaning it out until the key came out clean. I hooked the battery back up and she started fine. Then today it happened again. So I found someone who can put in the new ignition switch for me but I need some advice on where I could purchase the part from I know buying it online is usually less expensive (at least hopefully) then going to the dealer whom has already told me I'm looking at at least $189 for the part and $146- 150 for labor. The local Advance Auto's and Autozone are asking for basically the same.
  • Options
    misterfurleymisterfurley Member Posts: 3
    My roommate has a 2000-era honda accord, and a few times recently the ABS light has popped on. When this happens, there is a thick clicking sound and the car won't accelerate. He had it inspected after this had happened a few times and told them about it, but the car passed and they said it was fine. The ABS light still pops on and the car still wigs out. Is this dangerous? Does anyone know what this could mean? Should he take it to a Honda dealer?
    Thanks- sorry I know nothing about these things but it seems scary when it happens. :confuse:
  • Options
    barbabarba Member Posts: 8
    Hi people Im back Its been a tough three weeks in Jamaica but hey someones gatta do it , its back to my troubled Baby now , I had a dead battery upon my return but , a quick charge and shes up and running again. Unfortunately If after a long drive I shut her off shes down for no less than 1/2 hr and I mean 1/2 an hr.Thanks for your advice and that sounds almost right what I neglected to tell you guys is that I had recently replaced my original 94 engine with a 96 engine so who no's this new thing may be the solution to my problem, the ignition lock cyclinder will try it :blush::blush::blush:
  • Options
    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    check out 14 in the following. perhaps all you need is the switch, not a new lock assembly. to be honest, i'm not sure:

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1996&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=COMBINATION+S- WITCH+%282%29
  • Options
    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    You need to addess the problem to the appropriate year model board. The 2000 Accord has probably a different ABS system than this board's Accord.
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    It sounds like the ABS (antilock brake system) is kicking in--pretty serious, I would say, if this were to happen while you're on the highway. I think ABS light is supposed to turn on to alert the driver whenever the system engages (unless, of course it remains on constantly--at which case it is saying something is faulty). When ABS does engage, you should be able to hear/feel (esp. in the brake pedal) rapid "knocks" or clicks.

    I did not think it was possible to engage the ABS however, unless the brakes are engaged. Is it possible that your friend is stepping on the gas & brake pedals at the same time (so the ABS thinks the wheels are slipping)?
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The ABS light does not engage in any of our cars (as far back as our 1993 Accord EX), this includes a CR-V EX, Odyssey EX, and three 2003+ model Accords. This includes during system engagement.
  • Options
    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You need to post this question is THIS topic:

    Honda Accord 1998-2002 Maintenance & Repair
  • Options
    misterfurleymisterfurley Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, oddyseyaccord. this is scary because he is on the highway all the time for school. I'm reposting this in the appropriate forum, I didn't notice the model years, just came here from an internet search. Sorry and thanks
  • Options
    neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    What part of the lock actuator are you having a problem getting to? The part behind the door handle or the actuator itself near the latching mechanism?
  • Options
    shadingdingshadingding Member Posts: 16
    Hi lists,

    I have 97 Honda Accord 4 cylinders 16 valves.

    I'm trying to change timing belt myself. The manual says "with the engine at TDC for #1 cylinder, remove the timing belt covers and the balance shafts belt for access to the timing belt".

    It seems that "TDC for #1 piston" is a critic procedure for some of repairs near engine. Could anyone kindly explain to me why I have to do this procedure?

    Ok, if I have to do as the manual says.
    "The preferred method is to turn the crankshatf with socket and ratchet attached to the bolt threaded into the front of the crackshaft in order to bring a piston to TDC."

    Where 'the heck' is the crackshaft located?

    Sorry for the stupid questions. I'd get this going.

    Thanks in advance.

    shadingding2
  • Options
    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Aligning the engine to TDC also aligns the timing marks on the cam shaft, balance shafts and crankshaft. Those marks are your only sign that everything is "in time" so the car will run correctly.

    The crankshaft (not crackshaft) the pulley that drives everything else, its the one nearest the bottom.

    One tooth off on any of the belts, and you will have problems. Although changing the belt isn't rocket science, it's still recommended that you know what a rocket is. Are you sure your up to this?

    Mrbill
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    You will find the bolt you're looking for inside the wheel well of the left front wheel. There is a hole in the plastic lining hidden behind the wheel, and you should be able to see a bolt that turns the crankshaft just on the other side of the hole for your socket wrench. You may want to remove the wheel for easier access.

    Good luck...
  • Options
    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    1. The white 95 accord exv6 i was mentioned previously with 115k miles refused to start at the dealership, the check engine light came on and then the battery died (@ a dealership!?! how sad. Glad i waited) so we took that ( :lemon: ) honda off the list of accords to check out.

    2. However, we did look at a 95 black 4cylinder accord ex with leather stickered for the same price ($4800) and loved it It had all the options on my list except for not being a 96 & not being close :cry: . It started up and rode very similarly to the 6 and felt lighter on its feet. It's power windows were quick when compared to the v6's (but now i guessing its because of the battery) and the interior still looked new. In fact the tires were new, it didn't drip oil and it even had my favorite scent. I call it "Ou de new honda"! Still smelled new despite being 11 years old.

    3. It has a stock cassette tape and cd changer in the trunk. Does any1 know how to work it? I know it may sound sad that i mention it but why spend $250 on another cd player and changer when it has 1 properly installed. I hear it shuffling disks but not sure of how to play change ect. There is no remote and the buttons are not intuitive as to how to use it.

    4. We put down a $100 hold fee(they'll keep it for 2weeks and keep it maintained and fresh) so we can pick it up in a week. My only gripes are what i listed above, plus the cracking of the leather behind the rear headrests :confuse: , the ac taking 15mins to blow cold air and then 15 mins to get the car cool 75º'ish (despite being in miami on a hot, humid spring day of 87º outside), the un-tinted windows, not having a of the spoiler, and the leather coming off the rear armrest bottom when up.

    :) Thanks for reading and PLEASE help with info on the cd changer :sick: . Hopefully it'll have me as a friend in a week or 2 despite my gripes.
  • Options
    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Not sure if i should do this but i guess now you will you'll understand y i luv this car :blush:.

    image

    Although the people in the background look like they are tampering with the car, he's actually washing it. He does a great job :D !!

    The white honda i bragged so much about
    image

    isn't this a hard decision :cry: :sick:
  • Options
    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    When we were comparing the 4cyl. Accord to a V6 (both '95 models, back in 2001) the difference was like between night and day.... The V6 was a totally different experience, so much TIGHTER than the 4cyl, quieter, and mostly POWERFUL.... It was a REAL DELIGHTFUL car to drive, which I traded in 3 months ago, with only 75,000 miles.

    So for me -- it's a no brainer.... The dealer would HAVE to fix that car in ANY case, if he ever wants to sell it... And Also, that car has an EXTENDED emission warranty from Honda, till 150,000 miles, which covers a LOT of issues (check about it here on this very board)....

    As to the CD changer in the back, it's working nicely. I am not too familiar with it, 'cause mostly my daughter drove that car, but I know she used that player all the time. Yes, you can change the CD, the tracks on each CD, and anything else that you expect from a CD player. The only disadvantage is, it's less accesible, than a CD on your dash.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My baby, my 1996 Accord LX I-4 has a brake problem. Occasionally, the pedal would sag to the floor (signaling a leak in the master cylinder, right?) lately, its happening more an more often. My brake fluid is at the "low mark" threshold" though, and I wonder if topping that might be a fix to the problem, (meaning the problem is a lack of fluid period). Just curious; as I got a quote from my dealer of $285 to install a new part. It's gotta get fixed though; I'm afraid to drive it until something is done...It IS an excuse to tool around in my new 2006, but I miss driving my baby! Any thoughts are welcome...Thanks
  • Options
    aceguillenaceguillen Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Accord that seems to idle irratically when I have the Air Conditioning on, but only after the car has been running a while. When I come to a stop the car shuts off. If I switch off the AC button the idle raises back up. Please help!
  • Options
    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Modern cars with built-in AC (yours included) are built with an element that's suppose to RAISE your idle speed when the AC is on, putting an extra load on your engine. I don't remember it's name, but that part is shot, and need to be replaced.

    That's as far as my mechanical knowhow allows me to contribute....
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm just as mechanically challenged, but I think it is some sort of solenoid (going by my memory from this forum). I have an appointment to take my car for a full master cylinder replacement on Thursday unless someone comes up with a better (cheaper) idea to possibly remedy my above mentioned brake problem (post #232). Thanks!
  • Options
    aceguillenaceguillen Member Posts: 2
    Okay, so I'm replying to my own message...thanks everyone. After looking further into it, it might be something called the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, if anyone knows anything about that - let me know, thanks - Ace.
  • Options
    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you're losing brake fluid you have a leak somewhere and that must be fixed. Adding fluid won't fix the problem. The leak doesn't necessarily have to be the master cylinder. You can also leak through brake calipers or a faulty brake line.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I guess I need to rephrase the question...

    I agree, if I'm losing fluid, adding fluid would only be a temp fix. I'm not sure i'm necessarily losing fluid; I just know my current level is just at the "low mark". Could the low-level of fluid be my issue? I'm not sure if its losing fluid or not; I just know I lose brake pressure once every hundred stops or so (although the last time I drove it I had to pedal-to-floor instances within 5 miles; I let off the pedal when it does that and reapply the brake and pressure is there and firm.). It leaves me wondering if the only problem is a low brake fluid level (say from the dealer not filling it properly a while back). Just curious as to if the inital lack of fluid would have anything to do with me losing pressure sporadically (i'm guessing not).
  • Options
    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i'm not an expert but the system is supposed to be "closed" meaning there should be no loss of fluid, and if it is below the low mark, you have lost some fluid somewhere.

    that is not an issue you can avoid.

    have you ever had the brake system serviced? brake fluid should be replaced on a periodic basis (I think the recommendation is approx every 2 years or so). it can pick up moisture and contaminants that will affect it's compressibility (ability to transmit work/force from the master cylinder to the brake calipers) and also ability to prevent part corrosion.

    in my experience on two vehicles, having to pump the pedal or it going to the floor means air in the lines (and in one case, a drastic cut in the brake lines due to salt corrosion).

    your observations could be the result of a low level to begin with, but that in turn is probably due to a leak somewhere, perhaps in the master cylinder assembly itself.

    whose to know without it being inspected? i'm just speculating right.

    if it were me, i *WOULD NOT* merely add fluid and hope that all was fine. i would spend the money to have the system inspected, flushed, and new fluid added. i would also have my pads front and rear replaced if they were worn. a dealership or independant specializing in hondas is where i'd take my vehicle.

    money is probably an issue. perhaps i'd add additional fluid to the resevoir per the specifications in your owner's manual, but that would be a *TEMPORARY* thing while i saved the $$$ to bring it in for repair. in the meantime, i would ask my dealer or independant to give the system a quick (free) look and quote how much to fully service the system. a good time to do this is when they have it up in the air (or they are under it in a pit) changing the oil.

    a brake system flush and refill isn't going to be cheap, and if you have a bad master cylinder or other part to boot, even more expensive.

    good luck.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I appreciate the input, thanks. I think I'll keep my appointment to get the new master cylinder put in; they are going to inspect and look for the problem before replacing it; that way it shouldn't be money wasted; if they can't find the problem in the master cylinder, I don't know what I'll do. The repair has been quoted to me at $285-$300, which I didn't think was too bad including labor and parts.

    My pads are new (less than 30,000 miles) but I still have the original brake shoes on the rear (160,000 miles on those drums; I'll have them look at them.) .

    *Sigh* Money is an issue, but I can at least afford to get it fixed now; hopefully no other issues will arise in the next month or two, though!
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    If you're not sure you're losing fluid or not, why not put in $4 worth of brake fluid and monitor the fluid level for a few days? It sounds as though if there is a leak, it's a small one, so the risk of massive fluid loss seems to be minimal. Since you're low on fluid anyway, you need to replenish it, whether there is a leak or not.

    When you replace front pads, the brake calipers have to be forced open (using a C-clamp) to their widest position before removing the pads and replacing them. This would push back on the brake cylinder, and can cause the brake fluid to overflow (this happened to me before). Then with the pads replaced, and calipers returning to "normal" position, one would have to check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it off.

    If your brake issues seem to coincide with when your front pads were changed, it might be worth it to just replenish the fluid and observe a while. Do a thorough visual inspection to see if there are signs of leakage around the master cylinder and inside the wheel.

    If you don't need a master cylinder, then you're just blowing $300.
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    Okay, I missed something here. I had read "my pads are new" and then I read just now "30K miles" part. I would not call 30K miles new pads. I've gone through pads around 45K miles (I highly recommend stock pads instead of the cheaper re-manufactured or after market pads--ask me why if you're curious, but that's another discussion)

    With pad wear, the fluid level in the reservoir will drop gradually because the pads needs to be pushed closer to the rotors, requiring more fluid in the line and out of the reservoir.

    Either way, if it were me, I would run my $4 experiment first, unless you really think your mechanic would pass up on an opportunity to make $300 by saying "yeah, the MC was leaking."
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    Just had one more thought (my apologies for multiple posts, but my brain ain't cranking fast enough).

    I just tried this "stop leak" thing for my radiator/cooling system. I was slowly losing coolant (did not know where--nothing dripped)--and to my delight, the coolant loss seems to have stopped (for at least couple of weeks for now).

    They have these "stop leak (that's what it's called)" products for brake systems too. It comes in a bottle/can at your local Pep Boys (maybe Walmart too) and you just add it as you would brake fluid. It's only recommended for superficial leaks when no obvious leaks are detected. Give it a try.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That was my original question which I was hoping for a reply from - Would that low (but within bounds) brake fluid be a possible cause for the sporadic loss of pressure?

    The reason I call my pads new is that they lasted me 131,000 on my stock set. I realize that most people get closer to 50,000, but I do a fair bit of highway driving these days, so 75k or 85k shouldn't be too far out of the question I wouldn't think. I still have the same drum shoes.

    I really appreciate all the input and help you guys are giving!
  • Options
    gmascargmascar Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    I'm new to the Honda forum..yesterday, while trying to make a u-turn in the parking lot of Wal-Mart, I bumped into a light standard..I am waiting for an estimate from the body shop..I wonder if it's better to pay the insurance co. $500 deductible, and let them pay the rest, or if it's not too much over $500 for me to pay out of pocket..thnx
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    I would think minimum fluid level ought to be sufficient to maintain brake pressure.

    You can also try this to test your brakes:

    With the vehicle in park & engine running (so the power assist is working), apply a firm pressure on the brake pedal--as far as it would go (pump the pedal once if you have to) and then keep applying the pressure and see if you notice a gradual fade in the brake pedal (i.e., the pedal gives and drops further into the floorboard).

    If the pedal drops further, then you definitely would need your mechanic to check it out (see if there's anything leaking underneath the car or inside the wheels at that point).

    I don't know if you do any downhill driving on the hwy, but if your brakes get too hot (due to "riding" your brake down a long hill, for example), you can lose pressure momentarily. The fluid can boil and form air bubbles, which can then be compressed further--which would feel like you're losing brake pressure.

    Good luck
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    Yet one more...
    Possible moisture in your system? (seen heavy rains recently?). Water would boil much easier (at a lower temp) than b-fluid, and with warmer weathers, it's easier for pads to get hotter. There are moisture removal additives for your brake fluid, too.

    Okay, I'm out of ideas now. Back to work :)
  • Options
    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    IMO they both drove relatively smoothly and had their faults. The white one has a new battery, new tires and starts fine. Even the windows are faster now. Was priced at $5500, the dealer gave me a reduction because of the black one. Then the black one went from 5200 to 4800 also. We figured out the price of replacement parts and things and decided the white one would be $5k anyway. We returned and the 1st thing he asked was if the deal on the black one was lowed. We said yes and to the 4800, he dropped it to 4500 final but we didn't see the car. When it returned from a test drive some 10 mins later from some disappointed people he showed us the new things i mentioned. Now all the tires are new potenzas (:lemon:) instead of 5different brands and 3 different air pressures.

    GREAT DEAL (except for the radio begging for the code)!! We called the other dealer and he's refunding us the $100 hold deposit. Hopefully the v6 is worth it. It was a good ride on the unmatched tires but i'm still suspicious of the potenzas figuring the bad reputation.

    Can someone tell me a how the v6 accord (A)is on tires (B) average mpg and (C) the tire brand you would recommend.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, the rain has not been that much different, and I don't drive in heavy brake-stress conditions. In fact, most of my city driving is not during rush hour, and the rest is highway. I don't think it the problem is boiling fluid. I also think that the problem wouldn't have been ongoing for months like it has (first instance of it was a few months after my wreck (maybe it was cracked or loosened then?). For the longest time it only did it once, maybe twice every 3k miles. It did it twice in 5 miles the other day in a rainstorm, however, which scared me a LOT, so I havent been driving it since it did that.
  • Options
    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    So you ended up buying the V6 Accord. Good choice. That engine would last you forever if you take care of it.

    Radio code you should be able to get from ANY Honda dealer (assumng you didn't purchase the car at a Honda dealership), based on the VIN number, but you'd have to go there, they won't give it to you over the phone, for safety reasons...

    Tires? No special tires for Honda, just good quality tires... Why not drive thoe tires for a while and see? Gas mileage I don't really remember, but it's not the greatest, this is an older engine with an older transmission, not as efficient as today's cars. as much as I remember my averaga (mixed driving) was around 20 mpg.

    What you need to check is whether the TIMING BELT was replaced, and when, and same about FLUSHING THE TRANSMISSION. These 2 are very important with the Accord. And be aware that the tranny fluid MUST be Honda's own fluid, not the generic one.

    Oh, and one more thing: CHECK THE LEVEL OF BRAKE FLUID IN THE ABS MODULE RESERVOIR!!! That's the little clear-plastic reservoir on the left of the engine, next to the ABS system... It must be FULL. Otherwise you'll ruin your ABS system, and it would cost you well over $1,000 to replace.
  • Options
    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ask enough people, and you are bound to get a response that is pleasing to you.

    you need to have your brake system inspected.

    can i make another recommendation? i would avoid any stop-leak product. when i was young and cheap-minded, i tried same on a radiator... ha ha to me.

    let's say a stop-leak product doesn't work in a radiator or brake system... what do you think that stuff is doing in that system? let's say it binds somewhere for a period of time...and seems to mitigate the leak, then let's say later it liberates.

    rot's o' ruck.

    as they say YMMV, but me? i'd stay *VERY* far away from those products.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm at the dealer as we speak(gotta love WiFi)...I was on the verge of a total Master-Cylinder failure, so it's getting replaced. The estimate climbed slightly to $310...that's gonna hurt, but not nearly as bad as a wreck from no brakes!

    Thanks to all who offered suggestions though!
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    Stop-leak is no cure-all, and there is a limit to what it can fix/mask. And I think the problem with the brake master cyl. would still have manifested again with any Stop Leak (glad it all worked out) anyway.

    On my 10-year old Accord, my Honda dealer wanted to replace my entire AC system & radiator because they were losing pressure and fluid ever-so-slowly, and they could not figure out where the leaks were. The estimate: $2000 AC + $1200 radiator (AC 2 years ago, radiator recently).

    Instead I put in some AC lubricant ($12) and Stop Leak for radiator ($4)--and guess what--the AC's been running for 20 months now w/ no prob, and the cooling system (radiator, etc) stopped leaking for 2-3 weeks now. I've had 10 solid years on my Accord, and spending "pocket change" to keep it running a couple more years is well worth it.

    Click and Clack (the guys on "Car Talk" newspaper columns and radio show) regularly recommend Stop Leak for aging cars for slow leaks w/ undetermined source. Their stance is if they work, great. If not, take the car in. I'd take these guys' advice any day.
  • Options
    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Ok guys, it's fixed. The pedal actually went to the floor on the tech guy, and only reluctantly built pressure back, so apparently I got the car in just in time...He had to use the e-brake to park the thing in the service bay. Total cost, $328.00. Ouch.

    Not bad, considering this is the only other repair I've done on this car besides a cooling fan motor that cost a similar amount ($295). 160k miles for $620 in repairs; I can't complain.
  • Options
    infamous1infamous1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Honda Accord Special Edition and my check engine light came on at 125,000 miles. What was your end solution? Thanks
  • Options
    infamous1infamous1 Member Posts: 2
    I wanted to know if you got the oil gasket installed and how much it was? I have the same problem with oil leaking into my spark plugs...Thanks
  • Options
    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    If yours is a V6 -- you're automatically eligible for a Honda extended warranty that's specific to emission problems. Its bulletin #98-081 which was discussed here before.

    You may be elligible for a FREE repair, plus a FREE tune up from Honda.
  • Options
    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Stop-leak is no cure-all, and there is a limit to what it can fix/mask. And I think the problem with the brake master cyl. would still have manifested again with any Stop Leak (glad it all worked out) anyway.

    right you are, and lucky in this case - very much so that he didn't try to add a can of stop leak something to the brake system (?) if something like that even exists... because, he'd probably be paying lots more than $300 something...that is if he was lucky enough to pay that is.

    on the issue of AC lubricant, i predict this is a stop-gap measure but not a long-term solution. when it fails to help, you're likely to be looking at much more $$$ in repairs than a $12 can of lubricant. logically you know this right? you're just delaying the inevitable. i had a 10yr old accord and tried the exact same thing. been there, done that. :)

    in my mind, there's quite a big diff between an AC system leak, and a coolant, brake, oil or other system leak.

    i like those c+c guys... the show is very entertaining. if they lost the "shtick" they could be helping lots more people... but then there'd be no show right?

    peace.
  • Options
    odysseyaccordodysseyaccord Member Posts: 24
    "...on the issue of AC lubricant, i predict this is a stop-gap measure but not a long-term solution. when it fails to help, you're likely to be looking at much more $$$ in repairs than a $12 can of lubricant. logically you know this right?..."

    No, I don't follow your logic, Mr. Spock. Let me spell this out again. My AC repairs was billed for $2000 and I didn't have cool air. I tried $12 lubricant. and I didn't have to spend $2K for the last 2 years of cool air. Do I think my AC miraculously healed itself and is back to its former pristine glory? No. Is my AC going to last forever? No. Instead, I just may have extended the life of my current AC system ("delaying the inevitable" as you put it) as well as my radiator.

    If the AC crashes tomorrow, I start driving with windows down and start thinking about putting $2000 toward a new Hybrid Civic. If my radiator blows up tomorrow, then the $4 experiment was worth it (it would have blown anyway). A new radiator costs the same either way.

    And the 134a refrigerant you buy at the dealer to "recharge" your AC--guess what, it contains lubricant for keeping the seals lubricated and literally "stop gaps". I just put in a little extra can of that same lubricant (keep your eye on that pressure gauge while doing it), that's all. You think I'm risking extra damage. I think I made an informed choice.

    ...stop leak something to the brake system (?) if something like that even exists...

    Well at least one of us has been to an auto parts store and knows Stop Leak for brake systems does exist. The manufacturers of these products do not claim this solves all your problems (alright, maybe some do)--but these products do work reasonably well at keeping leaky valves, seals and joints sealed *IF* that is where the leaks are. They do not claim to fix cracked AC compressors and brake master cylinders thrashed in an accident. Would you spend $4 to find out if your problem is due to bad seals before helping your mechanic make his boat payments (my apologies to all the scrupulous mechanics out there, all six of you ;))? I would--at least on a 10 yr-old car with 150k+ miles on it.

    Remember "Stop Leak" is just brand monicker (I know, it's got that "snake oil" feel to it) for different substances--lubricants, heavy oils, coating agent, etc., many of which were developed at reputable companies like 3M, DuPont, etc.
Sign In or Register to comment.