I didn't quite buy yet. Its too hard a decision :sick: . Between the gas mileage estimates ( :mad: 2 WHICH NO ONE REPLIED :mad: ), the $2.95+ regular gas, and the long term use issue. In other words is just a classic battle. Efficiency or Power . And why do the dealers compete so much?? 1 down talks the v6 because of the power to weight issue, "personal experiences" and what thegraduate said about the steering problem and engine size. And the other about the weakness of the 4cyl and the too similar gas mileage. The only thing I like are the cars themselves See if i get a 4cyl, it would either be a 96 or 97 with the freshening. Thats why i'm postponing. Besides the black one is gone anyways .
The "Mr. Spock" dig was un-necessary, but you're funny.
Let's agree to just disagree OK?
You're not very convincing. As I mentioned before - I've been there and done that and suffered the consequences...This is why I cannot nor will not agree with you.
Live long enough and you'll perhaps agree. Then again, maybe not. Your choice.
"1 down talks the v6 because of the power to weight issue" --- I don't get it... One might complain about the I4 being underpowered, BUT THE V6??? This Accord model has been the smallest, lightest of all Accord's generations, and the V6 engine IS ONE POWERFUL ENGINE! I don't know what's your impression of test driving that one V6 Accord offered to you, I don't know the condition of its engine, I can only tell you about the one we owned for 6 years (up until 3 months ago)... It was very powerful and really a delight to drive. Driving now a new car (Sonata, which I like a lot) I still MISS the old Accord sometimes...
I also believe that in the long run, the V6 would last much LONGER than the I4 (if you take care of it, of course)....
The v6 isn't at all underpowered. They said they are unreliable. So going between 1 and another is difficult. 1 minute its like I'm surprised with 1, then suspicious with another, then upset with one, the laugh at the idea that the other offers a bad option then go back to being disturbed.
---??? Who's saying that, and what's the unreliable part? Engine? Transmission? This doesn't sound too professional to me....
You need to compare the 2 cars that you're considering. Maybe you should make a LIST of what features does each car have (ABS, leather seats, power seats, sunroof, etc.). What model year is each car. How many miles are on each car's odometer.
Maybe you should post that list here, so that we can seriously compare the two cars? Maybe we can make a decision together (before your dealer sells both cars to someone else?...)?
Too late. My dad surprised me with the v6 (white one). The ride is ssssooooooooooo smooth (almost lexus like and much better than dad's 4runner and moms miata) something I didn't experience on the 1st drive or on the 4cylinder. But if you wanted to know the odometers are only 260 miles apart and the price is 200 apart with the v6 being lower in both. The only problems I have is the bubble in the rear tint (being re-tinted soon for $65), the light in the glove box staying on when headlamps on on (is this normal? You can see the light emitting from the front) I found the solution for the non-starting car. The alarm resets itself 15seconds after last door is closed. If inside when locked, power features work but won't start when locked. Final problem is that I can't stop people from staring at my ride !! Btw that was the dealer of the four cylinder car trying to make a dishonest profit. Judging by my accord knowledge, honda's reliability, the no recalls, and thegraduate being in every accord room stating legit facts and opinions, I knew who/what to believe. Thanks for your help .
Now, tell us again, what V6 Accord did you end up getting (dad loves you, I know, I talked to him into getting you the V6), what year model, what mileage on the odometer.
And, btw, the light staying on in your glove box, no, it's not suppose to stay on, but it DOES stay on... Mine did the same, Honda was sloppy in that respect. Don't be bothered.
The white one !! Its a 1995 accord v6 with about 114312 on the odometer. The light in the glove box turns off when I push it in a little but its not very distracting. So far the car has 30 miles since saturday an only 5 are in my name :mad:... I've yet to drive it around . Would you recommend using
A) rear window defroster after small bubbles appearing in the tint? Cold :confuse: front visiting miami soon and need advice. Being re-tinted thursday and don't want to be cold :confuse: wiping off a window.
a certain brand oil/transmission fluid?
C) a steering wheel cover? The wheel is too skinny and needs more meat.
D) a certain gas and tire pressure?
Sorry if these questions are strange/weird or repeated but hey its never to early to begin caring for a car is it?
The only significant suggestions I can donate here, are regarding 3 "sensitive" issues with this generation's Accord, and these are the significant issues you should be investing your money on:
A. Transmssion fluid? ONLY Honda's! And I would suggest you go for a full transmission FLUSH, where a machine does a thorough flushing of your tranny, and again, puts in ONLY HONDA'S own fluid. Your mechanic can order the fluid from your area Honda dealeship.
B. As I mentioned before, keep an eye on your ABS module, the one on the left of the engine, check that the small clear plastic reservoir is FULL, and if not, add some brake fluid (slowly)... This ABS system is a BAD DESIGN and it tends to go south... I paid $1,200 to replace, and it went bad again after 4 years....
C. Check, if possible, if and when was the TIMING BELT replaced. With your mileage on the odometer, it SHOULD have been changed already. If not, DO IT ASAP. If it brakes, you would probably RUIN your engine.
Otherwise, have fun. Treat her well, and she will be your forever.
Thanks for the help :shades:!! When i said gas i ment which grade would you recommend (81 87 91). Seems as if you learned how to work with the strengths and weaknesses of this car. Umm... 1st problem problem. The antenna doesn't go up or down. Its stuck somewhere in the middle. Should i wait to get this fixed or should it be rushed? Dad's 4runner does the same but he is selling it soon. His his in front of you and the noise is annoying and loud. This one is in the rear and isn't disturbing (this is why i wanted a 96... NO PHYSICAL METAL ANTENNA TO DEAL WITH :mad: ) but kinda embarrassing when people hear noise and see no movement.
Gas? I put the cheapest on a regular basis (per the manual) but I don't think we have 81 here, in Chicagoland.... The lowest octane here is 87, then 89, and 91. I don't believe Honda would recommend 81.... Please check.
My antena got stuck also. I suggest to try playing with it.... While you're out next to the antena, have someone inside the car (engine running, radio on). Ask him to shut off the radio, while you're forcing the antena down. It may re-align the antena. It worked for me, at least for a while.
BTW, are you aware of Honda's special extended warranty that covers your car up to 150,000 miles (or 14 years)? It was discussed here several times.... Bulletin #98-081.... Do a Google on that and find out a LOT about this warranty that covers MANY emission related issues. Basically, next time when your CHECK ENGINE light goes on, your warranty kick in...
My 1994 Honda Accord EX has been acting strangely when started warm. The typical scenario is: start cold, run for about 30 minutes; start again after two minutes and drive about five more minutes; stop again for about twenty minutes, with the car sitting in the hot afternoon sun. (I'm in Arizona; it gets well over 100 degrees in the sun by this time of year.) The car then starts but may immediately die or require quick action on the gas to keep it running. If the second break is more like an hour, or the car was in the shade, the car starts, but I hear it drop from high idle to low idle in 15-30 seconds. (In that case I've always jumped for the gas pedal and driven two-footed for the next ten minutes, so I don't know for sure if it would have died if I left it alone.) If it dies, it generally has to rest at least 20 minutes before it will start again; try too soon and the 20 minutes starts all over.
Even if I have to take it to a service person (which is likely, as I'm not particularly good with machines), I'd like to know what's going on instead of just handing it over to the "magicians" and hoping for the best. Can anyone here tell me what is probably the matter?
No I haven't gotten my oil gasket changed yet, I have done some price comparisons and I am finding the average to be between $120 to $150. I'm know it needs to be done but someone at Meineke told me that I would have to get new spark plugs and I just had them replaced which is how I found out I needed a new gasket I didn't have the money at the time so I didn't get it done but now I dont want to pay for plugs again does anyone know if this is true or can I just clean the plugs ?
After a week of ownership, I experienced about 23.5mpg city only! Not bad for a v6 in an 11 year old car :P :shades:!! Gas lasted a week and a half. Took $33 to fill up completely on regular gas.
Well, not exactly... My wife got a new Accord in August... My daughter got a new Civic in January... I started having problems again with my ABS, and then I damaged the front end jumping on the curb (while talking on my cell phone...)... I went to CHECK the new Sonata, test drove it, liked it, but then it was late evening of January 31st (turns out to be the BEST date of the YEAR to purchase cars....), and the manager at the dealership would not let go of me.... He gave me such a deal on the new Sonata, and such a deal on my old Accord, I would have been a real idiot not to accept it....
It just made lots of sense, logically, even though my heart was attached to my old car.
Have fun with the hyundai. My bros. bought a 96 and within 45 minutes of purchase, the radiator shattered into pieces. Cost 1400 to replace not to mention he only paid 1k for the car.
My problem . Ok so the v6 starts and now the D4 light flashes on then turns off. I notice that after i see it, within 30 minutes of moderate acceleration, the car will SCREECH from the engine compartment until the car shifts into gear 2. Transmission fluid is good as is oil. This doesn't appear to be normal :sick: .
Last comment: Whoever said the car suffers from road noise, try potenzas . The may be crappy tires but if they have pressure between 25 and 30psi, the car is SILENT inside to the point i didn't hear a fire truck behind me until i saw every1 swerve out the lane (kinda hard to tell because all miami drivers do strange things, even the fire truck drivers). The potenzas also give a comfortable ride at speeds around 85 with no vibration in the steering column :P . Maybe :surprise: what i heard about potenzas isn't true...
Have fun with the hyundai. My bros. bought a 96 and within 45 minutes of purchase.... --- Yes, well, that's why I haven't even considered a Hyundai up till few months ago... They USED to be aweful cars, but then Japanese cars in the early to mid 70s used to be crappy cars also...
The new Sonata got really great reviews, is offered with LOTS of safety features (Electronic Stability Control among others) that many of her rivals don't have even as an option, has the BEST warranty in the country and is priced $4,000-5,000 lower than the Accord or Camry... But hey, my other car is an '05 Accord, so I'm not biased...
D4 light flashes ---- As I posted here before, YOU NEED TO KEEP AN EYE ON THE TRANSMISSION:
A. The fluid MUST be FLUSHED every 30-40,000 miles. As for NOW, check the COLOR and SMELL of the fluid, it must be freshly PINK and oily smell -- not burnt smell.
B. You MAY have a problem that's connected to the EMISSION, in which case you'd be LUCKY, 'cause then you're covered (till 150,000 miles or 14 years) as I posted about it here last week, I believe... That specific bulletin (98-081) covers also a specific problem with the transmission.
You need to check it with a Honda dealeship! Mention that bulletin, and also, ask them to print it out for you, there is a lot of information that should benefit you. Or Google to find the list on that Honda Bulletin 98-081 (they don't like it here when we post links to other web sites)....
the oil isn't far from smelling oily but is light-years away from being pink ! Am i hogging the board? It seems like others have stopped posting or they could be driving their roughly no problem 94-97accord. Japanese cars were bad in the 70s but that was nearly 40 years ago. The 1st accord was in fall of 76. This is the Accord's 30 anniversary :surprise: and no special edition . It'll probably be something big (and hopefully short, powerful efficient & topless ) by fall of this year :P !!
Autoboy, If I were you, I'd go FIRST to the Honda dealer, to check whether the Blinking D has anything to do with the emission bulletin mentioned above. As I noted, there IS an issue with that bulletin and the transmission.
Then REGARDLESS of what he says, go to your mechanic, and have him FLUSH the transmission. Not change the fluid –– but FLUSH it. It cost me about $115, I did it jsut as a preventive measure -- and the car shifted significantly SMOOTHER afterwards!
If you want to keep the car for a while, DON'T neglect the transmission.
And again, keep an eye on the fluid level inside the ABS reservoir!
The d4 light doesn't blink. It comes on when the car is on on (b4 you start it up) then goes off. I just need an oil change. Wish i could do it to day but i cant. Y, today is mothers day. Probably sometime this week.
:P HAPPY MOTHERS DAY TO ALL THE MOTHERS EVERYWHERE :P
sorry but i have no clue what you are talking about. Ask me again in about 5 years j/k. I'm sure someone can help you and it looks like i'm not that person
Autoboy, thanks for inviting me to your "carspace" circle... I don't know much about it, but I don't think I "belong" there (being too old for you, guys, my younger daughter is your age...)...
So sorry to deny your request... But I'll be more than happy to assist you (and the other owners of this perticular model) with all I know....
You said a mouth full :P. Its a pretty cool place! You're never too old or young to be "hip( :shades: )" sorry couldn't resist . & its growing too! last night as of 8:15pm, there was 7000 members. Now theres 7066+ members!
I do believe you fought in the Civil War, shiftright. That's why you're so old and suffer from dementia... See, the link you posted here is linked to nowhere ("The page you requested has been updated or was not found.")...
But seriously, I feel quite comfy here, no need to post my photos, or my cat's photos, make friends, and tell the world about my kinky sexual habits... Ooppsss... now I'm kiddin' again.
I posted this on a general Honda forum and was told to put it into a maintenance forum, hope this is the right place.
Our 1997 Honda Accord had the front left wheel damaged when it struck a curb. Since then the check engine light came on and the D4 light flashes. The OBDll code reads P0700 which is a auto trans malfunction. The car runs fine, trani shifts fine, the only possible problem is that the torque converter may not be locking up at freeway speed, I'm not 100% sure. Freeway speed 65 mph the tach reads about 3k rpm which seems a little high. A Honda mechanic confirmed the code and drove the vehicle and said he couldn't tell me anymore without further investigation.
I've read about the solenoids getting clogged and thought this is a possibility but don't get a code for them.
Would anyone have any suggestions as to how I could troublesoot this problem?
where you see the title of mr_shiftrights post here his name is in blue by the date. Click it and a small box should come up with his name in it and his membership stuff. Then on the top of that box, it says car space(with the icon)_ Visit me. Click Visit me (or the icon), Its a hyperlink.
Mr_shiftright, that link doesn't work :sick: but if the steps above are followed, then it should work .
My 97' Honda Accord Lx has been a good car. But the paint is comming off. On the top of the hood and the back of the trunk. The color is a blue shimmer color . I have notice many year models look like this. I took it to the body shop and they priced me 1200 to paint it. lol.. I will be lucky if I sold it for 1200 with the paint looking like that.Has anyone had this problem? The body shop person told me they are alot of them out their because of the clear coat they used.?? thanks
My paint is white and it looks good. There are some scratches on it but it isn't peeling. My aunt has a 1997 and the paint is HORRIBLE!! Its the same bluish-green looking lx. It can't be just that color because i also see it on reds, golds, silvers, blacks and :confuse:... that other color i'm forgetting. The interior was the 1st to go because the cloth seats (both colors) began turning black as in being set on fire... I see it more on the 1994s and 1997s. But the thing is that i only see it on lx and dx models. Its hot and humid here so that can be a problem too. O well i'm sorry i couldn't be of much help
Thanks.. It just kinda makes me mad I bought it new and I have took really good care of it and it look's like crap and don't want to spend alot of money 1200 isn't pocket change. '' for me'' I just don't understand why Honda hasn't recalled the paint on this model? Are the dark color ones... Maybe, I need a garage.. lol...
My maroon 1996 LX Accord is losing its clearcoat around the top of the rear-bumper...the roof is still good though. The rest of the car (front 2/3rds) has been repainted due to being run-off the road into a guardrail last year (I was unharmed, but the car wasn't).
If you don't want a garage, I guess you can save a couple thousand $$ and spend about $200 at most for one of those car gazebo things to put over your drive way. The bad side is that they are tall and you'll need someone about 6'3 or taller to help you out. They are nearly impossible to put up alone. If they recall the paint, they should recall the ac for only being cold in indirect sunlight or mild heat. OR the slow :lemon:like :sick: we know as "power" windows on this model. I timed them. It takes about 30 seconds to close and about 20 to open but then they'll just call us greedy .
My AC is great never had any problems from it. My windows sucked until we had a new motor put in it. Fine now. I might just trade this car in been looking a Toyota just didn't want to go in debt again. :shades:
I'll keep it brief (I'm at work but needed to get this out here)
1) when driving (usually on highway) with my radio on (have an amp, 1 10-inch sub, capacitor) the radio resets (while not completely shutting off, my speedometer and tachometer needles drop and go back to where they were, and it feels like my auto tranny either loses power or shift (can't tell cuz it happens for a half-sec)....my battery has some corrosion on the positive terminal so I'm going to clean it and see it that helps...what could it be (some one telling me it could be a short :mad: :lemon: )
2) I can't use my cig lighter anymore because if I do it blows a fuse and my radio gets cut (they share the fuse)
3) One of my rear lights wouldn't light up completely and now it is completely off...but no brake light indicator on dash since it shut off completely (used to be there when it was partially lit)
Could these problems all be related...I love this car and can't afford to lose it...
Please help a fellow Accord Enthusiast...This bodystyle is my favorite!!!
The 1st 1 happened to me yesterday. It was brief but very disturbing... You're driving along at 45mph on the way home in a 45mph zone and suddenly, the tac and speedometer drop to 0 and the tranny refuses to do anything (could hear engine reaching 4k rpm and wouldn't shift into 4th gear or overdrive) It happened 1ce but briefly, maybe 30seconds and then the tac and speedometer jumped back to normal and the car changes gears as if it never happened :confuse: . So i thought little of it.
Sorry i can't quite help with the other two. My only idea is that the amp and sub may be too powerful for the car. Remember it is 10 years old. A bigger fuse may help but i'm unsure . Do you have a v6 model?
It sounds to me like you have a stereo too powerful for your car's electrical system. For example, the stock stereo in my LX is only 50 watts (12.5 x 4 channels), whereas my CD player I added (Pioneer) is 200 Watts. Yours is likely MUCH more powerful, considering you've added channels (SUB) to the stereo, and support a SUB. I think your alternator and overall electrical system is probably too weak/old to keep this up safely.
As far as the battery terminal goes, clean it with a paste of Baking Soda and water with an old toothbrush (that's what I did and it works), this should remove the buildup easily. The battery should'nt be the problem though, it would be the alternator/electrical system.
Comments
Let's agree to just disagree OK?
You're not very convincing. As I mentioned before - I've been there and done that and suffered the consequences...This is why I cannot nor will not agree with you.
Live long enough and you'll perhaps agree. Then again, maybe not. Your choice.
I also believe that in the long run, the V6 would last much LONGER than the I4 (if you take care of it, of course)....
---??? Who's saying that, and what's the unreliable part? Engine? Transmission? This doesn't sound too professional to me....
You need to compare the 2 cars that you're considering. Maybe you should make a LIST of what features does each car have (ABS, leather seats, power seats, sunroof, etc.). What model year is each car. How many miles are on each car's odometer.
Maybe you should post that list here, so that we can seriously compare the two cars? Maybe we can make a decision together (before your dealer sells both cars to someone else?...)?
Now, tell us again, what V6 Accord did you end up getting (dad loves you, I know, I talked to him into getting you the V6), what year model, what mileage on the odometer.
And, btw, the light staying on in your glove box, no, it's not suppose to stay on, but it DOES stay on... Mine did the same, Honda was sloppy in that respect. Don't be bothered.
A) rear window defroster after small bubbles appearing in the tint? Cold :confuse: front visiting miami soon and need advice. Being re-tinted thursday and don't want to be cold :confuse: wiping off a window.
C) a steering wheel cover? The wheel is too skinny and needs more meat.
D) a certain gas and tire pressure?
Sorry if these questions are strange/weird or repeated but hey its never to early to begin caring for a car is it?
A. Transmssion fluid? ONLY Honda's! And I would suggest you go for a full transmission FLUSH, where a machine does a thorough flushing of your tranny, and again, puts in ONLY HONDA'S own fluid. Your mechanic can order the fluid from your area Honda dealeship.
B. As I mentioned before, keep an eye on your ABS module, the one on the left of the engine, check that the small clear plastic reservoir is FULL, and if not, add some brake fluid (slowly)... This ABS system is a BAD DESIGN and it tends to go south... I paid $1,200 to replace, and it went bad again after 4 years....
C. Check, if possible, if and when was the TIMING BELT replaced. With your mileage on the odometer, it SHOULD have been changed already. If not, DO IT ASAP. If it brakes, you would probably RUIN your engine.
Otherwise, have fun. Treat her well, and she will be your forever.
My antena got stuck also. I suggest to try playing with it.... While you're out next to the antena, have someone inside the car (engine running, radio on). Ask him to shut off the radio, while you're forcing the antena down. It may re-align the antena. It worked for me, at least for a while.
BTW, are you aware of Honda's special extended warranty that covers your car up to 150,000 miles (or 14 years)? It was discussed here several times.... Bulletin #98-081.... Do a Google on that and find out a LOT about this warranty that covers MANY emission related issues. Basically, next time when your CHECK ENGINE light goes on, your warranty kick in...
Even if I have to take it to a service person (which is likely, as I'm not particularly good with machines), I'd like to know what's going on instead of just handing it over to the "magicians" and hoping for the best. Can anyone here tell me what is probably the matter?
1. You get what you pay for
2. 1 (wo)mans trash is another (wo)mans treasure.
Now i can't stop
I traded in my dark green '95 V6 Accord (with only 80k on the odometer) 3 months ago, and I must admit, I REALLY MISS HER....
Well, not exactly... My wife got a new Accord in August... My daughter got a new Civic in January... I started having problems again with my ABS, and then I damaged the front end jumping on the curb (while talking on my cell phone...)... I went to CHECK the new Sonata, test drove it, liked it, but then it was late evening of January 31st (turns out to be the BEST date of the YEAR to purchase cars....), and the manager at the dealership would not let go of me.... He gave me such a deal on the new Sonata, and such a deal on my old Accord, I would have been a real idiot not to accept it....
It just made lots of sense, logically, even though my heart was attached to my old car.
if not how do mechanics normally diagnose the vehicle?
My problem . Ok so the v6 starts and now the D4 light flashes on then turns off. I notice that after i see it, within 30 minutes of moderate acceleration, the car will SCREECH from the engine compartment until the car shifts into gear 2. Transmission fluid is good as is oil. This doesn't appear to be normal :sick: .
Last comment: Whoever said the car suffers from road noise, try potenzas
The new Sonata got really great reviews, is offered with LOTS of safety features (Electronic Stability Control among others) that many of her rivals don't have even as an option, has the BEST warranty in the country and is priced $4,000-5,000 lower than the Accord or Camry... But hey, my other car is an '05 Accord, so I'm not biased...
D4 light flashes ---- As I posted here before, YOU NEED TO KEEP AN EYE ON THE TRANSMISSION:
A. The fluid MUST be FLUSHED every 30-40,000 miles. As for NOW, check the COLOR and SMELL of the fluid, it must be freshly PINK and oily smell -- not burnt smell.
B. You MAY have a problem that's connected to the EMISSION, in which case you'd be LUCKY, 'cause then you're covered (till 150,000 miles or 14 years) as I posted about it here last week, I believe... That specific bulletin (98-081) covers also a specific problem with the transmission.
You need to check it with a Honda dealeship! Mention that bulletin, and also, ask them to print it out for you, there is a lot of information that should benefit you. Or Google to find the list on that Honda Bulletin 98-081 (they don't like it here when we post links to other web sites)....
Keep us posted, autoboy.
Then REGARDLESS of what he says, go to your mechanic, and have him FLUSH the transmission. Not change the fluid –– but FLUSH it. It cost me about $115, I did it jsut as a preventive measure -- and the car shifted significantly SMOOTHER afterwards!
If you want to keep the car for a while, DON'T neglect the transmission.
And again, keep an eye on the fluid level inside the ABS reservoir!
So sorry to deny your request... But I'll be more than happy to assist you (and the other owners of this perticular model) with all I know....
But seriously, I feel quite comfy here, no need to post my photos, or my cat's photos, make friends, and tell the world about my kinky sexual habits... Ooppsss... now I'm kiddin' again.
Shifty the Host
Our 1997 Honda Accord had the front left wheel damaged when it struck a curb. Since then the check engine light came on and the D4 light flashes. The OBDll code reads P0700 which is a auto trans malfunction. The car runs fine, trani shifts fine, the only possible problem is that the torque converter may not be locking up at freeway speed, I'm not 100% sure. Freeway speed 65 mph the tach reads about 3k rpm which seems a little high. A Honda mechanic confirmed the code and drove the vehicle and said he couldn't tell me anymore without further investigation.
I've read about the solenoids getting clogged and thought this is a possibility but don't get a code for them.
Would anyone have any suggestions as to how I could troublesoot this problem?
Thank you,
Brad
Best of luck,
thegrad
Mr_shiftright, that link doesn't work :sick: but if the steps above are followed, then it should work
OR you can click here to visit him
Autoboy16 (self appointed temporary substitute) HOST (I always wanted to say that
Well, I guess you must be minimum 90 years OLD, and officially diagnosed with ALZHEIMER to be allowed to that site...
The REST of us, FOULISH people, are NOT allowed.
srikar
http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/
perhaps the 95 Accord V6 had an obd-ii interface.
i think you are right though 95 and earlier Accord I4s did not.
My 97' Honda Accord Lx has been a good car. But the paint is comming off. On the top of the hood and the back of the trunk. The color is a blue shimmer color . I have notice many year models look like this. I took it to the body shop and they priced me 1200 to paint it. lol..
I will be lucky if I sold it for 1200 with the paint looking like that.Has anyone had this problem? The body shop person told me they are alot of them out their because of the clear coat they used.?? thanks
1) when driving (usually on highway) with my radio on (have an amp, 1 10-inch sub, capacitor) the radio resets (while not completely shutting off, my speedometer and tachometer needles drop and go back to where they were, and it feels like my auto tranny either loses power or shift (can't tell cuz it happens for a half-sec)....my battery has some corrosion on the positive terminal so I'm going to clean it and see it that helps...what could it be (some one telling me it could be a short :mad: :lemon: )
2) I can't use my cig lighter anymore because if I do it blows a fuse and my radio gets cut (they share the fuse)
3) One of my rear lights wouldn't light up completely and now it is completely off...but no brake light indicator on dash since it shut off completely (used to be there when it was partially lit)
Could these problems all be related...I love this car and can't afford to lose it...
Please help a fellow Accord Enthusiast...This bodystyle is my favorite!!!
Sorry i can't quite help with the other two. My only idea is that the amp and sub may be too powerful for the car. Remember it is 10 years old. A bigger fuse may help but i'm unsure
As far as the battery terminal goes, clean it with a paste of Baking Soda and water with an old toothbrush (that's what I did and it works), this should remove the buildup easily. The battery should'nt be the problem though, it would be the alternator/electrical system.