By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Let's agree to just disagree OK?
You're not very convincing. As I mentioned before - I've been there and done that and suffered the consequences...This is why I cannot nor will not agree with you.
Live long enough and you'll perhaps agree. Then again, maybe not. Your choice.
I also believe that in the long run, the V6 would last much LONGER than the I4 (if you take care of it, of course)....
---??? Who's saying that, and what's the unreliable part? Engine? Transmission? This doesn't sound too professional to me....
You need to compare the 2 cars that you're considering. Maybe you should make a LIST of what features does each car have (ABS, leather seats, power seats, sunroof, etc.). What model year is each car. How many miles are on each car's odometer.
Maybe you should post that list here, so that we can seriously compare the two cars? Maybe we can make a decision together (before your dealer sells both cars to someone else?...)?
Now, tell us again, what V6 Accord did you end up getting (dad loves you, I know, I talked to him into getting you the V6), what year model, what mileage on the odometer.
And, btw, the light staying on in your glove box, no, it's not suppose to stay on, but it DOES stay on... Mine did the same, Honda was sloppy in that respect. Don't be bothered.
A) rear window defroster after small bubbles appearing in the tint? Cold :confuse: front visiting miami soon and need advice. Being re-tinted thursday and don't want to be cold :confuse: wiping off a window.
C) a steering wheel cover? The wheel is too skinny and needs more meat.
D) a certain gas and tire pressure?
Sorry if these questions are strange/weird or repeated but hey its never to early to begin caring for a car is it?
A. Transmssion fluid? ONLY Honda's! And I would suggest you go for a full transmission FLUSH, where a machine does a thorough flushing of your tranny, and again, puts in ONLY HONDA'S own fluid. Your mechanic can order the fluid from your area Honda dealeship.
B. As I mentioned before, keep an eye on your ABS module, the one on the left of the engine, check that the small clear plastic reservoir is FULL, and if not, add some brake fluid (slowly)... This ABS system is a BAD DESIGN and it tends to go south... I paid $1,200 to replace, and it went bad again after 4 years....
C. Check, if possible, if and when was the TIMING BELT replaced. With your mileage on the odometer, it SHOULD have been changed already. If not, DO IT ASAP. If it brakes, you would probably RUIN your engine.
Otherwise, have fun. Treat her well, and she will be your forever.
My antena got stuck also. I suggest to try playing with it.... While you're out next to the antena, have someone inside the car (engine running, radio on). Ask him to shut off the radio, while you're forcing the antena down. It may re-align the antena. It worked for me, at least for a while.
BTW, are you aware of Honda's special extended warranty that covers your car up to 150,000 miles (or 14 years)? It was discussed here several times.... Bulletin #98-081.... Do a Google on that and find out a LOT about this warranty that covers MANY emission related issues. Basically, next time when your CHECK ENGINE light goes on, your warranty kick in...
Even if I have to take it to a service person (which is likely, as I'm not particularly good with machines), I'd like to know what's going on instead of just handing it over to the "magicians" and hoping for the best. Can anyone here tell me what is probably the matter?
1. You get what you pay for
2. 1 (wo)mans trash is another (wo)mans treasure.
Now i can't stop
I traded in my dark green '95 V6 Accord (with only 80k on the odometer) 3 months ago, and I must admit, I REALLY MISS HER....
Well, not exactly... My wife got a new Accord in August... My daughter got a new Civic in January... I started having problems again with my ABS, and then I damaged the front end jumping on the curb (while talking on my cell phone...)... I went to CHECK the new Sonata, test drove it, liked it, but then it was late evening of January 31st (turns out to be the BEST date of the YEAR to purchase cars....), and the manager at the dealership would not let go of me.... He gave me such a deal on the new Sonata, and such a deal on my old Accord, I would have been a real idiot not to accept it....
It just made lots of sense, logically, even though my heart was attached to my old car.
if not how do mechanics normally diagnose the vehicle?
My problem . Ok so the v6 starts and now the D4 light flashes on then turns off. I notice that after i see it, within 30 minutes of moderate acceleration, the car will SCREECH from the engine compartment until the car shifts into gear 2. Transmission fluid is good as is oil. This doesn't appear to be normal :sick: .
Last comment: Whoever said the car suffers from road noise, try potenzas
The new Sonata got really great reviews, is offered with LOTS of safety features (Electronic Stability Control among others) that many of her rivals don't have even as an option, has the BEST warranty in the country and is priced $4,000-5,000 lower than the Accord or Camry... But hey, my other car is an '05 Accord, so I'm not biased...
D4 light flashes ---- As I posted here before, YOU NEED TO KEEP AN EYE ON THE TRANSMISSION:
A. The fluid MUST be FLUSHED every 30-40,000 miles. As for NOW, check the COLOR and SMELL of the fluid, it must be freshly PINK and oily smell -- not burnt smell.
B. You MAY have a problem that's connected to the EMISSION, in which case you'd be LUCKY, 'cause then you're covered (till 150,000 miles or 14 years) as I posted about it here last week, I believe... That specific bulletin (98-081) covers also a specific problem with the transmission.
You need to check it with a Honda dealeship! Mention that bulletin, and also, ask them to print it out for you, there is a lot of information that should benefit you. Or Google to find the list on that Honda Bulletin 98-081 (they don't like it here when we post links to other web sites)....
Keep us posted, autoboy.
Then REGARDLESS of what he says, go to your mechanic, and have him FLUSH the transmission. Not change the fluid –– but FLUSH it. It cost me about $115, I did it jsut as a preventive measure -- and the car shifted significantly SMOOTHER afterwards!
If you want to keep the car for a while, DON'T neglect the transmission.
And again, keep an eye on the fluid level inside the ABS reservoir!
So sorry to deny your request... But I'll be more than happy to assist you (and the other owners of this perticular model) with all I know....
But seriously, I feel quite comfy here, no need to post my photos, or my cat's photos, make friends, and tell the world about my kinky sexual habits... Ooppsss... now I'm kiddin' again.
Shifty the Host
Our 1997 Honda Accord had the front left wheel damaged when it struck a curb. Since then the check engine light came on and the D4 light flashes. The OBDll code reads P0700 which is a auto trans malfunction. The car runs fine, trani shifts fine, the only possible problem is that the torque converter may not be locking up at freeway speed, I'm not 100% sure. Freeway speed 65 mph the tach reads about 3k rpm which seems a little high. A Honda mechanic confirmed the code and drove the vehicle and said he couldn't tell me anymore without further investigation.
I've read about the solenoids getting clogged and thought this is a possibility but don't get a code for them.
Would anyone have any suggestions as to how I could troublesoot this problem?
Thank you,
Brad
Best of luck,
thegrad
Mr_shiftright, that link doesn't work :sick: but if the steps above are followed, then it should work
OR you can click here to visit him
Autoboy16 (self appointed temporary substitute) HOST (I always wanted to say that
Well, I guess you must be minimum 90 years OLD, and officially diagnosed with ALZHEIMER to be allowed to that site...
The REST of us, FOULISH people, are NOT allowed.
srikar
http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/
perhaps the 95 Accord V6 had an obd-ii interface.
i think you are right though 95 and earlier Accord I4s did not.
My 97' Honda Accord Lx has been a good car. But the paint is comming off. On the top of the hood and the back of the trunk. The color is a blue shimmer color . I have notice many year models look like this. I took it to the body shop and they priced me 1200 to paint it. lol..
I will be lucky if I sold it for 1200 with the paint looking like that.Has anyone had this problem? The body shop person told me they are alot of them out their because of the clear coat they used.?? thanks
1) when driving (usually on highway) with my radio on (have an amp, 1 10-inch sub, capacitor) the radio resets (while not completely shutting off, my speedometer and tachometer needles drop and go back to where they were, and it feels like my auto tranny either loses power or shift (can't tell cuz it happens for a half-sec)....my battery has some corrosion on the positive terminal so I'm going to clean it and see it that helps...what could it be (some one telling me it could be a short :mad: :lemon: )
2) I can't use my cig lighter anymore because if I do it blows a fuse and my radio gets cut (they share the fuse)
3) One of my rear lights wouldn't light up completely and now it is completely off...but no brake light indicator on dash since it shut off completely (used to be there when it was partially lit)
Could these problems all be related...I love this car and can't afford to lose it...
Please help a fellow Accord Enthusiast...This bodystyle is my favorite!!!
Sorry i can't quite help with the other two. My only idea is that the amp and sub may be too powerful for the car. Remember it is 10 years old. A bigger fuse may help but i'm unsure
As far as the battery terminal goes, clean it with a paste of Baking Soda and water with an old toothbrush (that's what I did and it works), this should remove the buildup easily. The battery should'nt be the problem though, it would be the alternator/electrical system.