Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

wendyma

Is the Cabin Filter the same as the AC Filter? The Dealership told me I needed to replace that. How do you get to the Cabin Filter to replace it?

user777

The filter for the passenger compartment goes by a few names, but refer to the same thing:
The cabin filter
The "AC" (Air Conditioning) filter
The pollen filter.

In the '03 Odyssey, the filter is located behind the passenger-side glove box. If you open the box all the way, there are two plastic clips on each side of the inside of the box which have tabs that can be squeezed together with your fingers. To those there are rubber bumpers attached which prevent the box from swinging all the way out and opening towards the floor. In the odyssey, I had to open the box, remove the tab / bumpers on each side, drop the box down, remove 2 screws holding the box to the dash. Remove the box, cut and discard some dash material obscuring a metal bar which had to be dropped down to gain access to the filter door.

You can see what the filter looks like and what they cost here:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint00.html

You can get pretty good instructions on how to replace it here:
http://www.micronair.com/
Click on Product Finder
Select North America in the Drop Down.
For Vehicle Make select Honda.
For Vehicle Model select Accord.
Click on the Hyper-Link for the "installation" of the Micron part number shown.

This isn't a job for someone who isn't confident using a screw-driver or doesn't have a little time to work the problem... You also have to realize that the instructions provided are not precise... There's some deduction involved, but it's not too tough to accomplish.

Hope it helps.

dsherker

It is time to change the timing belt in my 2000 Accord V6. I have tried once and was not able to get the nut off that holds the crank pulley in place. I was going to try using a cheater bar to get this nut off, but before I do that I wanted to make sure this nut is not reverse threaded. Does anyone have this information? Also if there are any tips that you can give me I would appreciate it.

Don

dbrown9801

Hi, I have had the check engine light on in my car and have been chasing a fault for a little while. I used the code reader and found a P1457 fault. This is the evap code that is a real pain. After I researched this a little I found that it was a problem with the evap canister in the snow belt. No biggie, took it to the dealer and they replaced it. Should work fine now right? wrong. Still the same light, same code. Talked to the dealer and they told me that if you don't get it done quick it will zap your ECM. Replaced ECM with an aftermarket one from an online store. Had dealer install and program it. Still get the same light same fault. Please someone tell me it's a $5 part that I need to repair or something simple....

pilot0

I had that code. Ended up replacing EVAP cannister (by the fuel tank), bypass solenoid (on the cannister), purge valve solenoid(on the cannister) and vacuum sensor(on the cannister). Cost for all over $350. However, after I replaced all parts, I inspected the purge valve solenoid by applying 12V to it and found out that it was stuck in the open position. -- this was the reason for vacuum leak = P1457!!!. Other parts that I've replaced were operating noramlly. Another sideffect of P1457 is no vaccuum in the tank when you stop for gas. I don't think it's going to burn CPU (that's highly unlikely!) - it's just that, that is the standard stealership scare tactic.

dbrown9801

So let me get this straight..the purge valve solenoid ended up being the problem. Couple of questions.
1. How much did that particular part run you?
2. How did you get to it?
Hopefully this does the trick, I'll bench check the purge valve with the 12V to check it out. Thanks for the advice, just wish I had asked before the new ECM....

Dave

tylerwm94

I got this code as well at around 85K. I ended up having to have the Evaporator Canister and Evaporator Valve Control replaced at a cost of $320. I haven't had the problem resurface.

dbrown9801

Did you get it done through the dealer or another avenue?

Dave

cassy125

My 1998 Honda Accord will not pass M.A.R.T.A. I have to complete a drive cycle. I have driven over 800 miles and it still won't reset. Please advise. Also, I bought the car used and I am wondering why all of the fuses inside the car are the wrong number. None of them are the correct fuses that go into the place. Please help!
Thanks :lemon:

xtonyfx

Have a 2000 accord and was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem where the airbag lights (srs) stays on after the car starts and what to do to correct.

chestnut

I had a similar problem with my 2000 Accord. I took it to the dealer and it was a drivers side seat belt sensor. Apparently they have a lifetime warranty on the seatbelts. They fixed it for no charge.

tylerwm94

No, I didn't get it done at the dealer....just a local mechanic.

hugobecker

My wife's Accord (2000 EX V6) has a number of lamps that stay lit after start up including battery, brake, all doors ajar and brake lamp. I checked to see if the alternator belt was still on (it was) because my wife said that it had been making a squeaking noise before all the lamps came on. The car starts OK (at the moment) though the owner's manual says the battery lamp on indicates charging system problems. Has anyone seen these symptons and know what the probable fix is?

cannell3

This is a little late after your inquiry, but on my 2000 Accord, it was also hesitating when I started it-turned out that the battery was failing. I replaced the battery, and the hesitation stopped. Hope that this helps.

hugobecker

Got it to a shop - turns out the Delphi alternator has shoot craps. Oh well . . .

milliew

I am currently having problems with the transmission of a Honda Accord EX 2002 model. It is about to fail. Has anyone gotten the dealer to cover a car which is over warranty. It has 73,000. The problems were noticeable earlier on. No one could pinpoint the problem. What do you suggest I do?

cstork9

This exact thing just happened to my wife's car. Yup, the alternator is bad. You only have a few miles left until she is stranded. Lousy azlternator for going out so early.

cstork9

Anyone have recommendations for connectiong an IPOD to the stereo system? I'd rather connect it straight, instead of using the tape insert or FM transmitter.

misterfurley

My roommate has a 2000-era honda accord, and a few times recently the ABS light has popped on while he is driving. When this happens, there is a thick clicking sound and a little lurch and the car won't accelerate. (Someone on the other forum said maybe he was accidentally touching the break pedal as well as the gas pedal, but he isn't.) His car was up for inspection this month, so it was looked at after this had happened a few times. He told them what had been happening, but they passed the car and said it was fine. The ABS light still pops on and the car still wigs out. Is this dangerous? Does anyone know what this could mean? Should he take it to a Honda dealer?
Thanks- sorry I know nothing about these things but it seems scary when it happens.

rpotti

I have a honda accord EX v6 2002 model with 49000 miles on it. The car starts, but when i press the pedal, it does not move. Towed it to the Honda dealer (Peters honda in nashua), and he took 3 hours to diagnose and has charged 255$ just to diagnose the problem. He says it is a fuel pump issue, and needs to replace them for another 250 $. The car is only 4 years old, and i was not expecting such a problem so soon. Is it a common issue with Honda Accords?

bleedinred

Don,
I changed the timing belt on my 98 Accord EX, V-6.
Real simple to do and takes about an hour.
I had the same problem with the crank pulley bolt and let me tell you, you can't get it off on your own. Those bolts are put on so tight and plus they have lock-tight applied. I even bought the tool that prevents the pulley from spinning while prying on the bolt. I just was not strong enough.
Here is what I did...I went to a local mechanic and had them knock it lose with an impact wrench, then hand tighten it back.
I took it home, did the job, then went back and had them tighten it back to Honda specification.

ranajee

:confuse:
I popped the hood and reached behind the light to twist it to open but I couldn't twist it. It was too hard or jammed. I could easily twist and turn the passenger side headlight bulb but can't move the driver's side an inch.

Question: :sick:
IS there a trick or a way to open this. Do I need to remove the battery to give myself more room or use WD-40 or what? Please help

alirogers20

My auto service technicians have pressured me to change my automatic transmission in my 02 Accord SE, 53K miles. They said that 00-02 era Accords have some transmission issues and it is imperative to change my fluid.

Thoughts?

rpotti

In accord 98-02 models, there is a transmission issue, and Honda has automatic extended warranty on this vehicles for 7 years, for transmission problems. They would fix your car free.

alirogers20

Where can I get details on this? When was the warranty put into place? I bought this car July, 2005. I did not purchase any warranty myself.

bleedinred

Has anyone ever changed out the catalytic converter? If so, did you use a Honda part or another such as Walker, etc.

bolivar

Well, I think the auto tran problems with V6 Accords was before your 2002 year. If you have a 4 cylinder, it was not effected by the problems.

I have a 2002 Accord EX with a V6. It was not effected by the tranny problems, and is not covered by the extended warranty from Honda.

-And service department wants to change all your fluids at all kinds of shortened periods, quicker than outlined in the manual. Getting your money while doing this. Look at your owner's manual, it tell the time a tran fluid should be changed. Even Honda dealers put this 'scare' tactic out to their customers.

-If this is a Honda dealership, they can inquire into their computer system on your VIN number and specifically tell you if it has tranny problems and if it has an extended warranty. Talk 'knowledgable' to these guys. Ask questions. Ask if the service manual requires the service. Don't fall for the old 'heavy duty service' time period. Unless you are using your car for a taxi or police car, you probably don't fall under the 'heavy duty' service specifications.

Again, read your manual, read your manual, read your manual.

Here is a link the the government Nat HIghway Safety Board. The last time I was in there, it is tough to 'navigate'. But you can see recalls and can see complaints about your specific car. The complaints, in general, fall into two categories - scary and dumb. But if you read thru them, you can usually come to a conclusion about what kind of problems generally might be going to happen to a specific car.

www.nhtsa.dot.gov

ranajee

I had changed the Catalytic converter for my Accord 98 3.0 liter. I used genuine Honda parts and I would suggest to take it to the dealer to do it for you.

There is a way to do it yourself but I would not go under the hood and mess up with this sensitive part myself.

Best of luck

redsox111

The oil level in my 99 accord is over the top level mark by about the same distance from the lower mark to top mark. I think the mechanic who did my previous oil change added too much... should I do another oil change to get this fixed? Does anyone know how many qts. of oil this v6 99 accord holds?

alrj

:confuse: i have a 99 ex with 107,000 bought it brand new in nov of 98 and don't plan on getting rid of it any time soon, this car has been so great. i haven't had problems with it but im wondering when do i get a tune-up done, does anyone know?

thegraduate

Check the manual, but if one has never been performed on the car, I'd do it now, as it will surely be due.

bolivar

As the other person said, read your manual for services that should have been done.

On a modern fuel injected engine, there is very little to 'tune up'.

Basically you put new spark plugs into it. At 107,000, I think it is due these. If it was my car I would be generous and put new plug wires on it also.

I think 100,000 miles is the max for antifreeze replacement. I think the transmission fluid and the brake fluid should have been replaced much before this, and if not previously done, it is definitely time.

If it has a rubber timing belt, the recommendation for replacing is somewhere around 90,000 to 110,000 mile. Check your manual, it tells if your car has one of these. Since the work to 'get to' the timing belt also 'gets near' the water pump, many people also have this replaced at the same time.

Read the manual for service schedules.

kgrn

I have a 2000 accord with 56000 miles. when i turn the key to start the engine, all the dash lights light up for a fraction of a second, and then the power completly goes off- The car is completely dead. Sometimes, when I turn the key the car does not respond - it is already dead. when I hit the steering or the door panel, the power comes back and the car starts as usual. Honda service department is unable to solve/identify the problem. One of my concern is what would happen if the power goes off when i am traveling at 65 miles in the highway. If you had experienced similar problem or have suggestions to solve the problem, please post the information.

keung

can you be more specfic as to when it does this. after you drive, let it sit for a bit, in the morning etc

kgrn

This happens at anytime- cold or hot engine condition does not matter. Once this happens, the trip odometer, clock, and radio resets.

lagac

I own a 2002 Accord SE 4cylinder with 48,000. My fuel mileage has gone down and my mechanic tells me that I am due for a fuel filter change. Does this sound right ? How can I tell when to replace my fuel filter ?

lagac

According to Boch Honda, it is included in their 30K scheduled service and they suggest it get done every 30K miles (which i have heard from more than one mechanic which could be another sales gimmick).

If you do decide to change the transmission, make sure they use the Honda Fluid or you'll face serious problems. Personally, I'd take it to a Honda shop to do it.

bolivar

Wild guesses:
-Bad Ignition Switch
-Bad Battery Cable
-Bad Battery (Broken post)

Has anyone cut into the electronics on the car? Remote start, sound system, add-on security? If so, this would be something to look at.

bolivar

What does the manual say?

I don't recall there being any recommended service interval for a Honda fuel filter. A salesman on another board says they seldom need to be replaced, and he seldom hears of problems caused by fuel filters.

lagac

It doesn't say at all when to replace the fuel filter or to get the fuel injection cleaned. I use 87 gas and have heard stories that the fuel filter needs to get replaced every 3 years or so because it could get plugged up

rpotti

I did not change the fuel filter for 4 years. The fuel pump is clogged, probably due to this. The honda dealer replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. Now says, it is better but is not completely okay. The dealer is trying a fuel cleaner to clean the fuel injector. I am not sure if he will come back and say, no, you need to replace the fuel injectors as well.

I had a 98 civic, with none of these problems.

lagac

The reason why I ask this is that under the severe maintenance schedule my vehicle 2002 Accord SE will be due for a new timing belt and water pump @ 4yrs/60K but under the normal schedule, this won't be required until 85K. I live in the MetroBoston area and am puzzled to whether I should stick to the severe or normal schedule. The definitions are not very clear in the handbook: severe - if you drive MOST of the time in dusty, salted roads, stop and go traffic etc.

Which schedule do you follow ? Dealers try to push the severe as it requires more work than the normal. Does someone have a better definition/way to determine whch one to follow ?

thegraduate

Severe schedule will be it for you...the key decider for me? You live in Metro Boston - you have probably more than an hour of stop and go driving weekly. 'Normal' schedule is for Granny who only goes to church on sunday and take highway trips to see her sister living in Miami with the other Golden Girls, and drives 55MPH to get there. 98% of people should follow the Severe schedule.

bolivar

I disagree.

98% of the people should follow the 'normal' schedule.

Do you actually think Honda engineers don't know what kind of driving most of their customers do?

whitecloud1

I think most should follow the Normal schedule. I've done so with every car I've owned. Never a problem attributable to upkeep.

brassnut

I have had my car into Honda 3 times over the past three weeks. I initially had it in because I had a transmission fluid leak. They told me it was the left axle seal that was the problem and replaced it. I drove the car for a little over a week and then felt some jerkyness when the car shifted gears (automatic). I then checked the transmission fluid level and it was pretty much bone dry. Now, I have it in a Honda to fix the leak again and they call me back saying that the differential in my transmission is worn and I need a new transmission. I asked the guy if having low tranny fluid would cause this and he said no. Am I getting screwed here or what? Can someone give me an opinion please?

thegraduate

We'll agree to disagree. I've seen way too many sludge problems and burnt-up oil coming from people who don't follow the proper schedule to be able to say I agree with the normal schedule for anyone who drives in any sort of traffic.

maddycat2

I am wondering if anyone has experienced the two problems I am having. I have a 2000 accord coupe LX 4-cyl. I have been the only owner. The car has 109,000 miles on it. There have been no problems untill recently. For some reason the brake light indicator comes on randomly. It will stay on for a while then when I hit a bump it goes off but always come back on. The other thing which I am more concerned about is the gas pedal. Over the past couple of weeks there seems to be a stiffness to the gas pedal. I have to apply more pressure on the gas pedal than normal before it will accelerate. It is almost like it is sticking. People in parking lots think I am trying to run them down. My husband put oil on the throttle cable but that didn't make any difference. It seems to be happening more frequently now (couple times a day).
Thanks for listening hope someone can help.

duke15

We have a 1999 with 86K miles and are the original owners. Never had a problem with the brake light thing, but the gas pedal problem started around mile 50. The dealer would use a spary lubricant which would help for 50 or so miles, and then it comes back. It just sticks the first or second time we press it, and kind of causes us to start out a little faster than we would like - similar to your parking lot scenario. We've just put up with it for the past few years. It only gets worse when it is cold outside, but it never gets much worse and never lasts longer than 1-2 miles or 1-3 stops. I'll probably try some spray on it again soon as we are going to sell it in about a month to get a Saturn Sky.

msp1013

When I researched the 2000 Honda that was one of most people's conplaints was the brake light. I think it might have been recalled so call your dealership about that. Sorry I can't be of any help with your brakes : (