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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I agree, some alloy rims do better in salt them others. I think it all relies on the clear coat that's applied over the raw metal. Once that coating is cracked, scraped, or chipped, the salt quickly corrodes the metal.

    I think the coating may also be damaged during the tire mounting, or the manufacturer doesn't really focus on applying the finish along the inside of the rim since it doesn't show.

    I'm actually considering having my alloy rims on my 04 Accord chrome plated. If it's done well, I would think that it would hold up much better then the clear coat that’s used. I only wish I could see a pic of the rims before I decide.

    Mrbill
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Chrome plating may not be a solution, it can flake off and cause a leak in the rim area also. Just happened to me with a 97 Cad Deville, and I live where there is very little salt used. Multiple areas leaking, all around the rim area, on the inside of the wheel.

    I was paying for having the tire torn down, the rim buffed out, tire remounted and 'gunk' sealer applied and I asked the owner if he sees a lot of this problem. He said 'I didn't look at the wheel, but is it a Cadillac? I said Yes, and he said They are the worse'.
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    honda01honda01 Member Posts: 5
    :confuse: I need some help/instructions. Recently, my car battery died and I had it replaces. I had some complications as a result of that. My stereo is asking for a code and since I bought it used I don’t have it. Honda said they can pull the stereo out and get me the serial number to get the code but I will have to pay them $85.00. Can someone send me some instructions on how this is done? All I need is the serial number off of the stereo. Another thing that happened was that the needle on the speedometer fell past the little rubber stopper it usually rests on and now I cant tell how fast I am going, the needle still moves so I know its working. I was told I had to take the dash apart so I can lift it and have it rest on the stopper again. I unscrewed the two screws in the dash but it was hard to pry off. Any suggestions? I have a 2001 Accord. Also the gas light and clock light are out, I figured I can replace the gas light bulb when the speedometer gets fixed, any instructions on getting the clock light replaced. Thanks for your help.
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    duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I had the same problem, the only difference is that I am the only owner of my car. I still didn't have the code though, so I called the original dealer's autoshop, and they said that they only keep the codes on file for 5 years. Yours might be different if you know the dealer. Since they didn't have my code, they had me search my car for a white sticker with some numbers on it -> the sticker ended up being in my glove box, stuck on the side of the box, and contained the serial number to the stereo. I was told that the sticker should either be there, in the small coin tray near the steering wheel, or in the console. With those numbers the Honda dealer's repair shop can look up and give you the code. Mine did it for free, I have heard others have charged for it. I read on the net that there are only so many codes. My dealer gave me two that I will list here for you to try. The first one worked for me: 22145 and 42615.

    Good luck.
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    kw_dakw_da Member Posts: 76
    Hi,

    Had same problem - code can also be in the trunk of the car, mine was on the upper part of the trunk.

    David
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    hondadriver268hondadriver268 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a dent in my front bumper (2002 LX Sedan) and it needs to be replaced. The body shop price for repair was a little too high for me, especially considering the aesthetic nature of the problem.

    I was thinking about replacing the bumper myself, but have no idea of what kind of work is entailed if I decide to do so. I read that its best to stick with Honda manufactured parts, but when I searched around the accord front bumper replacements available were not manufactured by Honda.

    my questions are as follows:
    1) Is it overall worth it to replace the bumper myself given no experience?

    2) Should I find a honda bumper if I decide to replace it myself?

    3) How intuitive is it to replace the front bumper, given no experience?

    4) Any problems encountered or things to keep in mind when you replaced it yourself?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Bumper covers come unpainted, so even if your mechanically inclined, to you have the ability to paint the cover?

    Mrbill
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    a very good point. a poorly painted bumper is going to look like !@#$%^&*()_. ;)
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    honda01honda01 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you so much. I will definitly try the codes and to look in the places you mentioned!
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    honda01honda01 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you. I will try looking there too!
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    bsachs00bsachs00 Member Posts: 1
    I also had the same problem. I found the s/n of the radio in the glove box. You can pull the radio out yourself and get the s/n also. Take the s/n to Honda along with proof of ownership and any dealer can look up the code for you. You may need to persist a bit but they can get the code.
    Good luck.
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    honda01honda01 Member Posts: 5
    Hi thanks for your help. I found the number in the glove box and I called 3 different Honda places and bugged them enough until someone gave it to me. I finally have music and I have writen it down in the owners maual. Thanks so much!
    :)
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    johnboy6johnboy6 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Honda Accord with 105k miles on it. Just had timing belt replaced and it runs rough. I am extremely disappointed. I drove it about 15 yards, gave the car back to the mechanic and left it with them for 5 days as I was out of town. Told them that I couldn't explain what was different, but it ran rough, it was louder, and I could feel vibration in the accelerator that just isn't right. I have no idea where to turn but I need some help. Any ideas? Thanks.
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    djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Did you have this service performed at a Honda dealership? Did the mechanic use a Honda part or an aftermarket part? :confuse:
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    whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    According to what you tell us, you really did not drive the car long enough to even know if things are different. The timing is set by the ECM so you need drive time to set-up. After 10 miles and still sounding rough, maybe a problem. 15 yards? You don't and the mechanics don't, know. Timing belt replacement is trickey though.
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    therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I have an 02 with about 50K. Seems like the fan doesn't work on speed 1 and 2 anymore, yet works fine on 3, 4. Any ideas?
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    johnboy6johnboy6 Member Posts: 3
    I left it there last week and picked it up yesterday. I have driven it honestly about 5 miles. I'll drive it today and check it out. I didn't take it to the dealership but a mechanic in our neighborhood, who has been reputable in the past. I will ask them today whether they used Honda parts or not.
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    biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    I'll bet you that there is a misalignment, probably just one sprocket, on one of the gears on the crankshaft or camshafts. The vibration should NOT be there if the belt was installed properly. The car should be running perfectly from the get-go. Your mechanic has to go back and check his work. Of course that involves a lot of time and energy, so if you paid by check or credit card stop the check or the credit card, if you can. There is always the possibility that something else has gone wrong with the car, but that is probably remote. The timing belt installation has to be re-examined.
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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    Sounds like the resistor is blown, partially anyway. The replacement is about $52, from Majestic Honda.
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    johnboy6johnboy6 Member Posts: 3
    If it's off one sprocket, would it a subtle difference or an unmistakable difference?
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    biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    That's an interesting question. Answer, it depends on the misalignment, type of engine, etc. There are reference marks on the various gears that must be at their index marks on the engine block. If any of the gears are off you will get subtle or unmistakable differences. The belt has to properly tensioned on installation otherwise these issues will develop. A subtle difference might be a rough or slow idle while an unmistakable difference might be erratic acceleration and very rough idle. Mileage will be affected and general performance will go way down. I am not a master mechanic, but I've encountered timing belt issues when I tried to replace them myself. I've done four. Three were ok, one had alignment issues. After the one problem, I promised myself not to try it again. Let good mechanic do the job.
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    fosterphx1fosterphx1 Member Posts: 12
    I plan to replace the in-cabin air filters on my 02 V6 but have been unsuccessful in finding a detailed procedure. I found a procedure for an 03 Acura TL-S but it isn't quite the same. Can anyone send me a link (URL) to a step by step procedure?
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I found a pdf file at www.handa-accessories.com

    The process is pretty complicated, seems to require the removal of seveal trim panels.
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    dgrgedgrge Member Posts: 9
    I have an 01 Accord and recently had the timing belt replaced. After driving about 5 miles i knew there was something as I could hear a noise that I know my car doesn't make, it was something that sounded like a pulley. I took it immediately back to the dealer and insisted the mechanic check it out. After a test ride he took the car back into the shop and found he had overtightend the balancer belt. If you know your car it running different, not better, insist the fix it as you paid alot to replace the timing belt. Did they replace the water pump at the same time?
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    therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    Thanks for info. Is that a DIY job?
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    paulb5paulb5 Member Posts: 7
    Has anyone replaced their rotors (front or rear)? I tried this past weekend, but was stopped dead in my tracks trying to get the two philips (star) head screws out without stripping them. They are made of brass or some other soft medal. I don't know how these can be removed without drilling them out and replacing with new screws. Is this how the dealerships do it? Any advise on this would be really helpful and appreciated. :mad:
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    These probably are Torx head screws. Used now for years and years, especially on brake parts. You can buy a set of 'socket head' and 'driver head' Torx head tools anywhere.
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    normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    Don't know, I just saw the drawing at Majestic's website. The resistor is at the bottom of the fan box, so it might not be difficult to get to. Check it before you buy.
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    fosterphx1fosterphx1 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the lead. The procedure does look involved but I performed a similar procedure on my G-35 and was able to get it back together.
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    btylerbtyler Member Posts: 1
    The other day I went to open the door to drive(what a concept) and the outside door handle didn't work. I heard a clink as something metal fell inside the door. Now I have to crawl into the car fromt he passenger side every day and its getting annoying. I can't get the door unlocked or open from inside or out, so I can't get the door panel off to get to the latching mechanism? Anyone know a way to get in there and release the door or what I am even looking for? I pryed the black piece that helps guide the window out so I could see into the door, but my attempts with a coathanger have been to no avail? Help is appreciated!
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    mrvomrvo Member Posts: 2
    Try a compact driver. It's specifically used with a hammer to deal with stubborn screws without stripping them.
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    mrvomrvo Member Posts: 2
    Honda has extended warranty on AT transmission to 7yr/100k miles for certain accord models because of defects. You might want to call their customer relations at 1 800 999 1009. At the worst you should get your transmission for free and pay for installation cost.
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    h0merj1h0merj1 Member Posts: 12
    Hi. I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4CYL that was getting bad with acceleration and would sputter and the rpms drop and slowly go back up,when I am at stop lights.
    Yesterday the "check engine" light popped up so today I took it to Advanced Auto Parts to get a diagnostic and got a P0420 code. I understood this to be a catalytic converter needing to be fixed. I called both Honda and another local Honda specialist who claims to be cheaper than Honda and was quoted the same price from both places, $740 plus tax. Honda also said they'd have to do their own diagnostic on the car which costs $98. The thing I wonder is if it'd be in my best interest to get an after-market brand catalytic converter for my car. Financially it'd be in my best interest, but according to one mechanic "it'd be a piece of sh*t". Of course he'd say that though so I would spend more money on his part. My car is at 112000 miles so the extended warranty for this part doesn't apply to me.
    I just want to know if anyone out there has any advice and knows how well after-market catalytic converters work in Hondas. Such as Bosal for example, whose converter costs $255. Almost $500 less than Honda.
    Any help I could get on this would be greatly appreciated.
    Oh, and how long can a car go with this problem before it becomes a major issue?
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    tylerwm94tylerwm94 Member Posts: 26
    I have the same problem with the CEL. I haven't noticed in any sputtering or bad acceleration though. However, the Check Engine Light will go on for awhile and then a few days later it will go off. Then, it will stay off for weeks and then turn back on. This has been going on for at least 6 months. I also don't want to spend $800+ on this repair. I've also thought about an after-market catalyst. Anyone else used one?
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    daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    My 98 V6 Accord is difficult to get out of Park. I have to jiggle the key, push and pull on the lever, etc. It's is getting worse too. Took me five minutes to get it out of Park today. The trans itself seems perfect. Any ideas/advice would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks - dayll
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    05ody05ody Member Posts: 103
    Hey everybody, I own a 05 Odyssey EX and a 98 Accord EX V6. The other night I was driving the Accord and noticed the "Brake Light" light on (located just under the picture of the car to show if your doors are open, not sure if it is the same light on U.S models). So I got someone to check out my taillights and my passenger side rear light was out. The next day I went to go take out the old bulb, but I checked to make sure which one was out before I did. The "Brake Light" light was no longer on and my taillight was working again. Anyone know why it did this? since that happened the "Brake Light" never came on again and my taillights are both working :confuse:
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    There is a solnoid on the shifter that is activated by stepping on the brake. In other words, you cannot shift out of park until you press on the brake. You knew this, right?

    The solnoid is getting cranky and needs to be replaced. If it fail completely, there is a slot, on the top of the steering column for column shifts or in the console for console shifts. There is a cover on this slot which you remove, then push your key into the slot, which will manually override the lock if the solnoid is completely dead. This is to be used only until you repair the solonid.

    Once again, this 'slot' and 'key override' procedure is in your OWNERS MANUAL. Read the manual. Read the manual. Read the manual.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    sometimes, oxidation on the socket connections with the bulb, sometimes a bulb with filament that is intermittent with the contacts, sometimes a bulb which mechanically has just "popped out" of its socket.

    i've had the above happen on my '94 accord and also other cars owned. happens.

    get a new bulb (proper type by replacement number) and replace it.
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    05ody05ody Member Posts: 103
    Thanks! Ill go probablly today and get one.
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    jeepgirl84jeepgirl84 Member Posts: 4
    Hello
    I have a 2002 Accord DX 5-speed with just shy of 100k miles. I bought it about 6 months ago from a dealer. For the past couple months I have noticed that I have to add a quart of oil every couple weeks as it burns and goes through oil. I have changed the oil 3 times so far (about every 5,000 miles) and am using Pennzoil 5w-20. I brought the car back to the dealer but they would not look at it, they insisted that Honda's do not burn oil and that I am using the wrong oil and need to use Honda oil only. This is very frustrating as now there is grey smoke coming from the tailpipe every time I accelerate and shift. Do i have to use Honda oil or is this a real problem? Thank you
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Ask them to put in writing that you HAVE to use Honda oil.

    Then, you will have a lock on a lawsuit.

    Federal law mandates that a manufactor cannot dictate that only their products be used. If they do, the manufactor has to provide this product FREE!!!!

    But - Did you buy the car 'As Is'? If so, they don't have to do anything about it, you have no warranty.

    P.S. I used Pennzoil 5-20 for several years on my 2002 Accord and it never used any oil, none ever added between changes.
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    daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    Thanks Bolivar - that info was excellent although your delivery bordered on being officious I humbly submit to your insistent advice. dayll
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    jeepgirl84jeepgirl84 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you, I will definitely get that in writing. I had a feeling that wasn't right, especially since on the Pennzoil quarts it says "recommended for 2001 and newer Honda automobiles." I do still have warranty on my car luckily, thank you again.
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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    google PCV valve. it's possible your PCV valve is sticking and your oil consumption is higher because of that.
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    ezmilesezmiles Member Posts: 5
    Hi everyone,

    I just bought (three days ago) my first Honda, a 99 Accord EX V6 Sedan from a private, second owner. The car has 74000 miles. I have every record of dealer services (7.5k, 15k, 22.5k, 30k, 37.5k, 50k, 60k). After the 30k Mile Service, the second owner had every third oil change done at a Jiffy lube. I have every receipt for those, too. The longest interval between services or oil changes was 7,249 miles.

    I actually wasn't looking for a V6; I wanted a 4 cylinder. But how could I pass up such a well-cared for car?

    The night that I got home, after the "handshake" but before taking possession, I did my internet search of V6 automatics and found out about the transmission problems in V6s. Yikes!

    Question 1) Should I worry about this car's transmission, or should I just continue the maintenance and drive, drive, drive?

    Question 2) One of the "little things" that I noticed is that two of the little plastic "buttons" that hold the black plastic under tray to the front air dam are missing. Where do I find some of those?

    Question 3) Are the alloy wheels on these Accords worth stealing? There are no wheel locks on them now. Should I get some?

    Question 4) My wife and I went shopping today (touch up paint and car wax for me; mulch and plants for her). We set off the anti-shoplifting beepers four times! I would suspect my wife of shoplifting except that two times the beepers went of going *into* the stores! Do Honda key fobs double as alarm testers?

    Question 5) I have an appointment for the 75k service next week. As a new Honda owner, is there anything I need to know about Honda service people? "If they say you need a new ____________ a) ignore them. b) they mean it. c) find a different dealer . . ." that kind of thing.

    BTW, after my initial heart attack/panic attack/buyer's remorse attack (triple whammy), I found this site. You helped to calm my nerves, so thanks.

    EZ
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    They will not put it in writting that you HAVE to use Honda oil. They just do not want to repair your car under your warranty.

    Now, a couple of other items about Honda.

    The owners manuals do say you should use Honda antifreeze and tranny fluid. They give instructions as to what other brands can be used 'when Honda is not available', and then say that the antifreeze or tranny fluid should be flushed and replaced with Honda 'as the first opportunity'.

    Or something like that.

    What I understand:

    Antifreeze: Honda does use a somewhat unique antifreeze additive. And it may not mix well with other '100,000 mile' antifreezes. Honda antifreeze is expensive, last I bought was $10/gallon premixed 50%. But since you should be able to get at least 3 to 5 years, or the 100,000 miles, before you need to flush/change, I am going to use Honda, just so there is no question about warranty.

    Tranny Fluid: It's my understanding that Honda fluid is so unique that using Dexron, which is the 'emergency' fluid you may use, especially in a total drain and refill, will give shifts that are not nearly as smooth as you get when using Honda. So, once again, because of the relative long life of tranny fluid and what I understand is a definite poorer function if non-Honda is used, and again the warranty issue (I expect to run my Hondas a long time, so I have extended Honda warranties), I will use Honda tranny fluid.

    Now for oil (meeting API standards) and filters, any 'name-brand' is totally acceptable. (Except Fram. I've heard bad things about them.)
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    1) Tranny. There were problems with 1999 or 2000 V6 trannys. I'm not sure exactly which ones. Go to your Honda dealer and talk nicely to the service writer. He can 'run' your VIN and see if your tranny was one with possible problems. There is specific range of VIN numbers and year/s that had the problem. If so, I think Honda has extended the warranty on the tranny to 100,000 miles. The service writer should also be able to tell you about this.

    The problem trannys had obvious problems. Pops, groans, etc, and some had more problems in reverse. The Accuras of this time period also had problems which in some cases involved the tranny locking up, at speed. This was not good. But, I think the Honda V6 tranny is a different tranny and did not have this extreme problem. It would just start to fail, with a lot of slow speed noise.

    Also, there was a problem in about 2003 or 2004 with V6 trannys. This is a totally different problem, because this is a different transmission - another gear was added by then. A gear would overheat and burn up. Honda made a retro-fit 'oiler' kit to add, or replaced the trannys with modified rebuilt trannys that did not have the problem.

    I think Honda vans might have also had some problems. Not sure about this. I 'think' this might have been the same as the Accura, sharing the same tranny.

    Overall, ALL V6 Honda transmissions do NOT have problems. Just certain models, years, and VIN series.

    2) Clips. Honda should have these. The air dam has probably been 'curbed'. There might be more damage than just missing clips.

    3) People steal anything. Honda's price for a 2002 EX 15" wheel is about $215, I've replaced one. Well, Walmart replaced one because of their tire repair machine operator.

    4) I've never had this happen.

    5) Since I've been chastized (sp) for this, I will only tell you one time. Read your manual. It will tell you what to service. Do what the manual says. Anything else, the dealer is wanting to move more money from your wallet to his cash register.
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    ezmilesezmiles Member Posts: 5
    Hi Bolivar,

    Thank you for your prompt reply.

    I am worrying less and less about the car as I drive it and as it builds up my trust in it. I know that probably sounds funny to Honda owners . . . .

    I have read the manual several times. My concern is the power of the service managers. My dad has an Acura MDX, and the Acura service manager suggested a "hard use" service rather than the regular service. Dad said "no" and the guy put "Customer declined recommended service" in the computer record. Nice, huh? Now what happens if something goes wrong with his car?

    If my service manager says I need a new timing belt because of its age and despite its low miles, what then? I think that's a tough call, and they know it.

    Keep telling people to read the manual. It's the best advice for any car owner, and the easiest to follow.


    Thanks again,

    EZ
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    ezmilesezmiles Member Posts: 5
    Hi again everyone,

    My comments about the miles versus age of the timing belt in my last post were bugging me, so I re-checked the manual. Sure enough: timing belts should be changed at seven years.

    I'll get it done.

    EZ
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