Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

tylerwm94

I'm having the same problem on my 98 Accord EX. I just had a major tune up done as well (plugs and wires) along with a ton of other maintenance work. I haven't tried a new O2 sensor yet as the CEL comes on for a few days/weeks and then goes away for awhile and then comes back. It has been doing this for several months now. Currently, it is off so I haven't done anything.

dadscar2

Thanks for the tip on how to access the clock light bulb. I just fixed my 2001 EX light @71K miles. Radio Shack sells a 12v-60ma minibulb (item #272-1092) two in a package for $1.49. With a knife blade or toothpick, simply loosen and untwist the two wire leads to remove the old bulb from the grey plastic fitting, reverse to install the new one. 5 minutes at most. Beats paying $4 something for this tiny part at the dealer.

rmuir

I have a 2002 Accord V6. In the cold winter months (like now) when the car is started there is a strong smell of gas in the car and outside it. When the engine warms up and is restarted the problem disappears as it does during the warm summer months. The dealer's service department has not been able to isolate the problem even though I have had them check several times. They suggest it is the ventilation of the gas tank but I believe it is something to do with the fuel system.
If any other V6 owners have had a similar problem and found a solution, I would be most grateful to hear from them. Thanks.
Roland Muir, Saskatoon Canada

xkiddx13

My 6 disc in dash cd player seems to be dirty or something cant quite tell, but when i play a cd it kinda sounds a little like a record player with little pots and crackles and i know its not coming from the speackers, does anyone know how to get the cd changer cleaned or if i can just by one of thoughs reagular cd cleaner disks.... help save my music..

keung

my v6 ACCORD has a unique problem. In the summer time, after I drive the car for more than 30 minutes and then allow it to sit for about 20-30 minutes, the car will not start. Once I crank it, everything goes off immendiately, it's like crank on, go off immediately and it will just keep doing this without starting. The only way to get it started is to wait longer, say 60 minutes, for cooling off and then it will start or start it like it is flooded and then once it starts keep applying throttle to get the idle up, because it I don't keep the idle up, it will shut off immediately. It is doing this year round, even in winter when the temperature is mild out say 6 celcius. There are no engine codes, the car has been tuned up and it has been doing this for about 2 yrs now. After the car is started and I turn if off for 5 minutes and on the re-start it starts up fine. I know that the hotter the temperature such as summer/spring the worse it is. Could it be the throttle body ? because the idle is low 500 rpm

itsmpt

Hey there,

When the accord shuts off, does it die right away? or does it idle really low for awhile and then it dies? The problem you are describing sounds almost exactly like mines. About a year ago, my accord began randomly idling at 100-300 rpms on certain start ups and then stall after 10 seconds or so. To compensate for the low idling, i used to drive with both feet; my right food would be constantly on the throttle to keep RPMs up, while my left foot controlled the brake. However, once i driven around a bit, the idling problem disappeared.

A couple of weeks later this idling problem would show up again and disappear after about 5 minutes of driving, this happened all of last year until one day (a day before christmas) the idling problem didn't disappear.

So i immediatelly drove it to the dealer with my dual foot driving and the tech told me that my "Idler control valve" needed replacing. I have no idea there was such a thing in my accord, but i paid about $350, including labor, to replace it. When i got the car back, the car was idling just fine. It hasnt stalled since.

By the way, my car also has an AEM intake. But i doubt this was the cause of the problem since it started happening before i installed it. Try taking it to the dealship if you can. If it cant hold idle while you drive, you can try driving with two feet to the dealership; one holding the revs up, while the other brakes. Remember, the right foot is just applying enough pressure to hold idle and to keep the car from stalling, do NOT over rev the engine when stationary or in neutral(try to keep revs around 1000). If you are going to attempt this, i recommend having some practice keeping the revs steady before driving.

Note: THis is only a suggestion!! It is very dangerous to drive like this. I've done this to my accord many times and so far it is still running without any noticeable problems, but since my dealership was so close i took the risk.

I'm sorry for the long post . I hope this helps.
Good luck

Peter

bg4

Hi

The Honda dealer recommended I get the power steering fluid changed since the color of it was turning dark; the dealer service rep said that typically it has to be changed every 30-60000 miles.

The mechanic at the independent auto shop where I normally take my car said that typically the power steering fluid lasts for a life time and the Honda Accord manual does not state that the power steering fluids need to be changed. He said that it is only the past 1 year that he has been getting requests from customers to have the power steering fluid changed, because the dealer in our area is recommending power steering fluid change to the car owners that take the car to the dealer.

The mechanic was willing to do it but essentially implied I do not need it. I checked the owners's manual but the manual is completeley silent on whether the power steering fluid needs changing - all it says is to top off the fluid if it is below the "low" line.

My Accord is an 2002 Accord EX which I got new about 3 1/2 years ago and it has about 43000 miles on it.

Can anyone advise on whether the fluid does need to be changed periodically, on the 02 Accord.

Thanks
Bob

whitecloud1

Leave it alone. If it's truely turning dark, something else is probably wrong. Changing the fluid won't fix a leaking seal, for instance. Why not wait until you experience symptoms? Also, I've never had a power steering fluid change recommended to me for any car I've had.

nls

The dealer for my Mazda minivan also said the same thing, but when I checked the fluid, it looked nice and clear, so I declined. If it is necessary to change it, it is supposed to be a fairly easy thing to DIY, using a turkey baster to remove the old fluid and add new fluid, repeating a few times to make sure that all the old fluid is out.

Mr_Shiftright

Changing power steering fluid is an acceptable preventive maintenance procedure at 60K but I wouldn't say absolutely necessary. It's something you can do on your own---the turkey baster solution is a good suggestion for you.

bolivar

Your dealer is wanting to make money off you.

If it's not in the maintenance schedule, why do it.

I've never seen changing PS fluid in any auto's owner's manual maintenance schedule.

keung

lgkerry, my problem is that in the hot or mild temperatures only after driving and then letting the car sit, it would not start up and after cranking the ignition, it would die off immediately. But if the engine did start, it would idle rough for 2-3 seconds, then die. Not really the same as yours. Just wondering how did the dealer diagnose your problem ?

itsmpt

They probably used a computer diagnostic tool, but i doubt that was enough to find the problem. The dealer that i go to has been around for quite some time, so I'm pretty sure their techs already seen this problem and knew how to fix it.

kmccann

I have a 98 V6 Coupe with 99,000 miles. I have owned it since 67K in 2003. I have had no problems. (Except for a bad alternator, no big deal - those things happen.) I'm on top of maintenance and she runs very well. I've read about problems with the automatic tranny in these cars. I have been paying attention to my transmission very carefully; haven't noticed any slipping. (and have compared to 3 other 98-02 V6 auto.) Has any one heard of the actual frequency of these problems? I've read 30 complaints or so, but with hundreds of thousands of these cars out there, how often do they really fail? A mechanical engineer from Honda has suggested that I dump the car before mine goes out. Is there any way to check the transmission to see what kind of shape it is in? I love my car, but I don't want to be stuck putting $4K into a car that’s only worth $8K. Please share your opinion. Thanks!

bolivar

The V6 Accord transmission problem was for a certain series of VIN's. And I'm not sure what year was involved. But your 1999 might be in the problem area.

A Honda dealer should have info about the specific VINs with potential problems. And they should tell you this. The problem was from a part from one specific supplier. And wasn't most of the problem in reverse. Snap, thump, etc in reverse?

Now there was a second tranny problem in about 2004 (?) where there was excessive heating and wear because of an oiling problem. There is a retro-fit kit to increase oiling and an extended warranty to cover these cars. Again Honda has this info and can tell you if you car may have this problem.

sidpaul

i was thinking of replacing the Original Honda CD player with a Pioneer mp3 player deck. My concern is if i do this will i lose the steering mounted control capabilities?? Its a 2000 Accord EX V6.

rcc8179

I've read about problems with the automatic tranny in these cars. I have been paying attention to my transmission very carefully; haven't noticed any slipping. (and have compared to 3 other 98-02 V6 auto.) Has any one heard of the actual frequency of these problems? I've read 30 complaints or so, but with hundreds of thousands of these cars out there, how often do they really fail? A mechanical engineer from Honda has suggested that I dump the car before mine goes out. Is there any way to check the transmission to see what kind of shape it is in?

The transmission problems affected approximately 1% of the vehicles. So, if you figure 400k units were sold per year, that would be about 4k per year. I believe the V6 models were more prone to problems. As the other poster reported, check with the dealer to see which VINs might be most likely to have problems. I would just make sure you change the trans fluid per the owners manual. And NEVER--I repeat NEVER--use anything but Honda transmission fluid. You will probably have to go to the dealer for this, but a drain-and-fill should be $50-75.

cash99

I have a 2001 Accord Coupe 4cyl auto with 77k miles and at a stop with it in gear the front speakers (or at least that's where the noise is coming from) rattle like they're loose. Any thoughts on this problem or a possible fix other than the dealer.

kmccann

A friend of mine replaced her OEM radio with an aftermarket MP3 player. She had to pay about $90 for an adapter to keep the steering wheel controls. It all probably depends on the model of stereo. Check with installers.

user777

rule out items in the door storage areas.

it's probably speaker cones or coils that have been blown by over-volume or distortion, or a bad radio / amplifier. hard to say.

there is some tool i think to take the speaker covers off. you could try to get one of those.

the cheapest solution may be new speaker replacements from one of the major audio/electronics retailers (for example bestbuy) or someplace online like www.crutchfield.com

most places with a web-presence have a tool to determine what will fit your vehicle. good luck.

zaksdad3

My 6 disc CD changer in my 02 EXV6 has decided to stop working with 6 disc loaded. It gives me an error msg that the manual says means take it in. I called my dealer and he suggested I contact the radio repair shop direct as it is out of warrenty. they want $250 to fix it and $80 to take the radio apart and retrieve the disc and put it back together without fixing the CD. The radio and cassette still work.

Any suggestions? Is this radio easy to take out and take apart?

Thanks
Larry

user777

Visit H&A Accessories:
http://www.handaaccessories.com/accelect01.html

Select a link for one of the units "Installation Instructions".

HTH

sidpaul

was thinking of adding a GPS system in my 2000 V6 accord. i was looking to first buy a PDA, then the s/w with the GPS reciever(destinator/copilot/tom tom). Any suggestions as to which is the best and any other valuable i/p's most welcome.

gabedabomb

I have an '00 EX-V6 Accord Coupe.

Now, I am on the same page with your post and the other replies. I have 108K on my car.

I bought a fluid siphoner from Pep Boys, and did just what everyone says: remove the fluid from the steering fluid reservoir. I just pumped the oil into an old spaghetti jar for disposal later.

The oil is DARK. I mean, I tried shining a light thru it, and it's DARK. Contrast that with the fluid from the new bottle, which is almost clear.

Bottom line: I'm going to repeat the procedure a few more times. The reservoir can hold 8-9 oz (a bottle of Genuine Honda Power Steering fluid is 12 oz. I would NOT use anything else). I bought 3 bottles which should be good for 3 changes. After that, I'll see how long the stuff stays clear. If it gets dark again real soon then I may have to have it checked out. My hunch is that it's because it's 100k mile old fluid. I'll probably do it more often now, maybe every 30K. A bottle of the stuff costs 3 bucks, and if you buy 2-3 bottles, plus a siphoner, it will cost less than 10 bucks. No under carriage, messy work; all from the engine bay. I don't think there's a need to flush necessarily. A bit of old fluid leftover isn't bad. A full flush costs 90 bucks at the dealer. I don't know how well the dirty fluid works, but I won't take chances.

imidazol97

If you can figure out the return line and disconnect it and let it pump into a bottle while you crank the engine and have someone keep the reservoir full with new fluid you can do your own flush.

doinwi

Not to add to the V6 trany confusion, but I have a question. My 1999 Accord (75k)had a torque converter shudder which the dealership fixed for free. They replaced the converter as a "goodwill" item. I'm happy about that. Since they replaced the converter the trany shifts a little harder than it used to. I notice it most when I'm slowing down for a stop or a red light and then need to get moving again before I make a complete stop. The trany seems to be in the wrong gear and I have to push the gas pretty hard to get going, with a jump from the trany. This is my first automatic trany (I bought the car a few months ago) so I don't know how normal this is. My wife's Ford Windstar has done the same sort of "jump" thing for 7 years. Am I overly paranoid about the trany, or should I have it checked? I've always heard the Honda auto tranys aren't particularly smooth. I doubt my trany is in the recall group, because when it was in for the torque converter American Honda said there weren't any recalls on it.:confuse:

sidpaul

Its been 3 weeks since i purchased a 2000 Accord EX V6. it has 52k miles on it. I noticed after a week that the cruise control is not working. The light on the left of the wheel comes on but on pressing SET the engage light does not come on the instrumentation panel, neither does Cruise control kick in. So i took it to the dealer(toyota in chicago) and the used car mechanic said that the Accuator mite be damaged. and since its a Honda only part it has to be ordered in from Honda before replacing my part. the dealer said the total cost incl. of labor to be ard 350 and was willing to split 50-50. should i get a 2nd opinion or go ahead with getting it replaced???

user777

Maybe it's the clockspring, the device that maintains electrical continuity between the steering wheel mounted controls and the wiring harness of the vehicle while turning the wheel from one extent to the other.

Does the Horn work?

Do you have an SRS light on?

duke15

I have a 99 Accord with 85K miles on it that I bought new in 99. I have a new car on order that isn't scheduled to be in until the end of June. When I bought the car, the dealer told me to replace the timing belt at 90K miles. The owner's manual says to replace it at 100K miles. If I were keeping the car, I would replace it now to be on the safe side. Since I am selling it, I would rather not spend the money on replacing it. Does anyone know when they should be replaced, and/or how much it costs to replace them? When I lived in Kansas the dealer said it was $300, but now that I live in the DC area, they want $1000. Is there any chance that it was replaced during the 60K mile recommended maintenance that the dealer did?

Thanks!

thegraduate

I have a 99 Accord with 85K miles on it that I bought new in 99. I have a new car on order that isn't scheduled to be in until the end of June. When I bought the car, the dealer told me to replace the timing belt at 90K miles. The owner's manual says to replace it at 100K miles. If I were keeping the car, I would replace it now to be on the safe side. Since I am selling it, I would rather not spend the money on replacing it. Does anyone know when they should be replaced, and/or how much it costs to replace them? When I lived in Kansas the dealer said it was $300, but now that I live in the DC area, they want $1000. Is there any chance that it was replaced during the 60K mile recommended maintenance that the dealer did?

It likely wasn't changed at 60k miles, or you would know by the abnormally large bill. Timing belt change is $420 at my dealership (in Alabama, likely cheaper here than DC), but D.C. may be considering changing the thermostat and water pump too, since the timing belt must be removed to get to these items.

Check with the dealership again and see what all the timing belt change includes.

If it were me, I'd drive the thing until my new one came in (assuming I'd only put 8,000 miles on it by June) without buying the belt.

nls

I replaced the timing belt, balance shaft belt and water pump on my '98 Accord even though it only had 60K miles on it. Honda recommends the change at 100K miles or 7 years. It cost me $600 in the Chicago area. But if you don't plan on keeping it, I wouldn't bother.

cuong

98 Accord V6 (160K mile and did all the tune up around 100K):
I have the same problem. This happens over 6 months now. I start the car in the morning before go to work with no problem and then again in the evening from work with no problem (about 8 hours in b/t). From my house to my work place is about 10 miles but it's about 30 minutes drive, some time when i drive home from work and stop to check mail before get to the house...the car could not start again...
So the problem is that if you drive the car over 30 min, then stop and turn off the engine...and there is a chance that you could not start the car again within few minutes or 30 minutes. You have to wait for about an hour or more then you can start the car again.
This car with this problem still work for me if i only use work only....the problem happened once when i used on the weekend, so now i am not driving this car only the weekend anymore until the problem is solved.

Anyone has any ideas what are the problems? Fuel relay? Fuel injector relay?

Thanks in advanced.

sidpaul

the Horn works and the SRS light comes on when i start the car but goes off after that

user777

the SRS light comming on and going off is just the system doing a self test (and allowing you to verify the bulb is working). no probs there.

still could be the clockspring. you've got steering wheel mounted controls right, and I presume a dash mounted button with it's own light.

if you push in the dash button and get the light, but then cannot press "SET" on the steering wheel and have the console display "CRUISE ON" not light up - I think it could still be the clockspring.

did you check the wiring to the CC actuator in the engine compartment?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=4DR+EX+V6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=AUTO+CRUIS- E+%28V6%29

that will show you all the parts.

did you check your manual for a FUSE related to the Auto CC function? On my '02 LX, I4/AT the fuse for the CC is shared by the ECM/PCM (Engine Control Module). Maybe there are two fuses in the '00 EX V6.

don't know what else to say except perhaps take it to an independant or another dealership for a 2nd look.

personally - if it were me? i wouldn't consider it a loss. i NEVER use my CC, except to check about once a year that it is still working. i want to maintain control of the vehicle to the extent possible.

tborn

the air are not blowing outin the car . i think the vent door are open .the fan are running

user777

the fan is running, but you don't feel air blowing out of the vents? did you check to see if the cabin filter is completely clogged? i think it's located behind the glovebox, and you may have to drop it to get at it.

lxlady

Just purchased an '01 Accord LX Sedan (4 cylinders) with 59K. Noticed a slight hesitation when starting the car the next day and took it to my mechanic for a thorough inspection. He noticed the hesitation as well, but couldn't say one way or the other if there may be a potential problem down the road. He did say that everything else on the car is in excellent condition. Should I be concerned? Any history of starter problems for this model?

pheedbak

I am certainly open to the idea of changing my waterpump at 100k miles. It makes sense if you are going to change the belts. My question is where did you hear that honda recommends you to change the water pump. I own a copy of the official factory mechanics manual for the 98 accord (not some haynes book) and it doesnt say to replace the pump. Is there a newer publication that told you this or did the dealership tell you this. My theory is that most dealerships sell multiple brands of cars, some of which do need a new waterpump. I think dealerships tell honda owners to change the pump because other brands require a new pump. Just a theory. Can someone help to clarify. I have changed all of the aformentioned parts on other cars (porsche 944) but dont claim to be a mechanic. Any advice is welcome.

mrbill1957

They recommend changing the water pump when the timing belt is changed. When the belt is changed, the labor time for the pump is minimal cause it's all exposed. Sure, you don't have to change the pump at that time, but if it fails later, your going to spend alot again just for labor.

Mrbill

sidpaul

i purchased a 2000 ACCORD v6 EX a month ago. the first thing after walking out of the dealership i did was get an Oil change. Honda recommended that i get a service done at 52.5k miles. what all is involved in this service and how much is the cost?? also yesterday on my weekend trips between chicago and Madison i noticed that on the freeway say if i break at ard 80(not hard breaking) there is a slight noise which is coming like a very gentle whine/screech. can't really define it!! What could it be?

mrbill1957

Did a Honda dealer make the recommendation or the Honda owners manual? Follow what the manual states!!! Dealers like to add alot of services that are not necessary.

Mrbill

duke15

Is there any way to tell that it is time to change your timing belt other than it breaking? Is there a noise, certain wear to look for, ??? I

f you do change it, how much should it cost? I have 85500 on my 99 ULEV 4 cylinder, and I plan to sell it in June, so I don't want to change it unless I have to, but I don't want it to break either.

cuong

If you change your radiator fluid regularly, then you dont have to change the water pump. My car has around 153K miles and still has the orginal water pump. One of my friend's car has around 170K or 180K miles and still has the orginal water pump.

mrbill1957

Changing the fluid may help save the seals, but won't extend the life of the bearings. I had a bearing on my 88 Accord start to squeal at around 120k.

Changing or not changing the water pump at the time you do a timing belt is a gamble which ever way you do it.

Mrbill

tylerwm94

I thought you were supposed to change it at 90K, but then after I had mine replaced, I read that it was 105K so I'm not really sure. At any rate, I had it replaced at 96K miles. The timing belt cost $325 and I also went ahead and had the water pump replaced at the same time for another $170. I don't know if I got ripped off or not. I always feel ripped off every time I take my car in for service though.

canddmeyer

My 1999 Accord 4-cyl owner's manual should be the same as yours, but has a slight variation. The manual states to replace the timing belt at 105,000 miles OR 7 years, whichever comes first. Mine is due in May, and I only have 36,000 miles. If my dealer says to replace it, I'd probably go for it since I trust my dealer. Beats the hell out of replacing an engine for about three to four G's as far as I'm concerned.

I'd also do it because I'm keeping my vehicle. But since you are not, I'd take my chances since your Accord will be gone by July. As for cost, it varies by location. I doubt it was replaced at 60,000 miles or you would have known about it when you forked over the bucks at the cashier.

kwood

I am looking to replace the outside headlight bulbs on my 98 accord v6. I can not seem to find anything on it in Haynes or the Owners Manual. The owners manual tells how to replace the brights on the inside(which look like the bulbs that i bought) but I am not sure how to get to the outside ones and if the bulbs I bought work for them.
Thank You

lggkerry

Ok, I want to say thanks to everyone that gave me their input. However, I finally got my car fixed at the dealership 2-3 weeks ago. They (the dealership) were finally able to duplicate the problem and found that I had a defective main relay assembly (just for anyone else out there with this problem or may have this problem in the future). :P
So I can say I finally have a happy wonderful working car. I'm loving my car once again, I'm about to have the timing belt and waterpump change when I do my next oil change! ?YEAH!!!

needcarhelp

I have a combination of things happening to my passenger side door. First, the power locks are going on and off randomly. Or I hear a clicking noise. The dealership put in a new actuary lock and it didn't seem to correct the problem. I also had the window channel greased and the window motor replaced because it works so slow when it's cold. Can anyone give me any advice????????????

tylerwm94

I did mine a couple of years ago. As I recall, it was in the owner's manual how to replace them. You get to them from under the hood. I remember the driver side one was pretty easy to access, but the passenger side was a pain because of the placement of the wiper fluid (I think). Good luck!