Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

bhattim

My Honda 99 V6 LX Coupe is recently giving me problems, yesterday night while driving on the highway, when I accelerated it, it died for a moment and then picked up. Today while I was stopped at a stop sign, when I accelerated it, it died again. After few min it started and died again, It started again and after driving a few yards quietly died again. It started after few minutes and while again on the highway while trying to accelerate it, it died again. After that it ran fine and got me to home, but i felt that it was running a little heavy and was less responsive to accelerator both while accelerating and decelerating. Any help or idea as to what is causing this and how can it be fixed, It has 160K miles on it and has been running remarkably well for the last two years. :mad: :sick:

normkol

On my 2000 SE, the D4 indicator on the dash doesn't light up anymore. The other shift positions do, but of course D4 is the most often used.

Does this come under the category of "It doesn't pay to fix", or is it something doable?

Thanks.

h0merj1

This message is a bit lengthy, so please bear with me. My 98 Accord had the check engine light come on a few weeks ago and I had Midas put in a "universal" catalytic converter. I had to go back in 3 or 4 times because the light kept coming back on. Eventually they ordered an after-market converter made exactly like the Hondas. This fixed the problem of the light coming back on, however, the vehicle still runs like crap. It vibrates heavily the more I accelerate and I've gone back to Midas and they did a "Fuel Injection Cleaner" service, which also did nothing to improve the vibration. In fact, it seems to be getting worse. I took it to AAMCO who checked it for transmission problems and they say it's ok. Just that the transmission fluid was dirty and needed to be flushed. But Honda says not to do that service because it ruins the vehicle. Plus, when I checked the dipstick for the transmission fluid, it was still pink. A little bit of a darker pink, but still pink. So I'm not sure what to do anymore. I'd like to avoid having car payments, but my car has 113,000 miles on it and this constant vibration, which feels like it's coming from both the engine and under the vehicle, is making me nervous. Does anyone know if this is something that perhaps changing the sparkplugs and wires would fix? I've spent a bit of money so far trying to fix this problem with nothing to show for it. Also, at Midas they told me the car could need it's fuel filter replaced but when I looked around online for info on that, I can't find a fuel filter part for 98 Accords. Do they not have any?
Anyways, I really hope someone out there reads this message and can help me out here. The vehicle is a 1998 4 cylinder V-Tech Accord that vibrates heavily the more I accelerate and also idles rough.

user777

maybe you've got a plug that isn't firing properly. did anyone you've taken it to diagnose the CEL? Maybe it's an EGR problem. who knows. hard to guess.

whitecloud1

Sorry about the money you've spent. Was the problem diagnosed before you bought the converter? That seems a bit early. It seems like plugs and possibly wires are the problem. The fuel injection cleaner was a good bet too. I use Chevron fuel system cleaner (a product with techron). If the light comes on again take it to a Honda dealer or specialist. I guess too that sometimes it pays to let the dealer or experienced mechanic check things out.

mwbrowning

I hope someone can help me out!

Bought a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 about two years ago with very low mileage. I have a long work commute (around 85 miles round trip) and have stacked on the mileage. Currently my Accord has 112K on it with regular maintenance activities done.

When driving at any speed above 25mph, I notice a distinct vibration sound coming from the rear of the car - I am assuming from the rear axle/pads area. To best describe the sound, it is speed sensitive - meaning it increases and decreases with speed, and sounds like there is a flat spot on the rear tires. Tires are brand new on the vehicle and wear patterns indicate that tires are wearing normally. The only think I can think of is brake rotors, but does anyone else have any thoughts or experienced the same thing?

Thanks.

h0merj1

Yes, when the check engine light came on I had it diagnosed at an Autozone which came up with the code for the catalytic converter. It seems early to have the catalytic converter changed?? Wow, it is at 113,000 miles so I didn't think it sounded odd that that was the problem. I forget the exact code, but it had the number 420 in it. I don't know for sure if the vibration has something to do with the catalytic converter they put in since it seems to be vibrating from underneath where it's located. On top of also having a vibration from the engine. My next best guess was the plugs and wires. I have Autolite plug wires, which I was told don't burn well enough for Honda's. So maybe that does have something to do with it.

normkol

If the vibration is coming from the area of the catalytic converter, check the installation. They could have left off a mounting bolt, it has happened to me.

snpatel1

I have a 2000 Honda Accord coupe with an anti-theft device and an aftermarket auto start system. Recently, I've been running into a problem where my anti-theft device gets triggered and the lights and horn start going off for two minutes at a time then stop. I can't figure out what's going on. First, I thought it was a wire that attached to the hood to signal when the hood was open or closed and activate the alarm accordingly. This wire had broken off an actuator switch so I grounded the wire thinking this would solve the problem. It worked for about a month, then the problem started again. Honda dealers tell me the problem can be with a pin in my door lock, but it costs a lot to fix.

I was wondering if there's a way for me to get my anti-theft disabled so the horn and lights would stop flashing. I park my car in a driveway in suburbia so I'm not too worried about it getting stolen. I've taken out the fuse for the horn, but that's kinda dangerous when driving in traffic and in a downtown area.

Any help would be great. Thank you.

Sanjiv

user777

If the anti-theft system is Honda, go here:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accelect00.html

and examine the anti-theft related offerings and installation instructions.

jaedlee

it seems from reading the posts that many problems arise after the cars are serviced at non-dealer service shops ... or is it just me?? I mean, i posted complaints after my experience at a local nondealer shop also. If that's the case, is it almost worth it to take the cars into the dealer and fork over extra 100 or so for alleged "better" service?? I do agree with one of the posts from the past.. i ALWAYS feel ripped off walking out of any auto shop after a repair/service. Just a thought. Good luck to all with problems, hope all gets resolved.

sanchez0561

First my cruise control went. Then my stop lights went. I replaced the stop light switch and I got the cruise control back, but no stop lights. Is there an adjustment or did I get a faulty switch? Maybe it's something completely different. Any help will be appreciated.

hwj39

The airbag light came on and remained on in my 2000 Accord. The car has 55000 miles. I contacted the Honda dealer and asked if this was not covered by an announced extended warranty by Honda. Wellllll, some are and some are not. They ran the VIN on mine and told me that it was not covered. I asked what was Honda's criteria for which ones were and which ones were not covered, and was told they had no idea. I have two Hondas and an Acura (which,by the way,is a 2000 model and is covered by an extended warranty on the airbag issue). I think that I have purchased my last Honda Product. Toyota seems to take better care of their customers.

lletourn

Hey, if you don't mind, post again if you figure out what caused the light to go on. Mine went on a few months ago and I haven't dealt with it. I have a 2000 Accord also but with 90k. The only extended warrently I've heard of that covered airbags was only for cars with side airbags (something about short passengers/heavy bags on the passenger seat setting off the light). Thanks!

bolivar

I don't have any idea of what to do to help you.

But your problems reinforce my feeling that I would never install after market security or remote start on a modern automobile.

With the complex electrical systems, you are just asking for problems.

chestnut

I have a 2000 Accord and had the SRS light come on. I took it to the dealer expecting to pay quite a bit to get it fixed but it turned out to be an electrical connection in the drivers seat belt. Apparently Honda warrants their seatbelts for life so they fixed it for free.

hwj39

The dealer did tell me that it "could be" a seat belt problem and if so would be covered. However, I would have to authorize an $85.00 charge for them to look at it. I simply don't understand the concept of having a warranty on the "Seat Belt" but not the equally important life saving air bag system. Things that don't make sense make me mad. There appears to be no answer till a few folks get killed because the air bag system doesn't work and Honda gets taken for millions in legal settlements. Honda can only hope I'm not on one of those juries.

rhuberty

Have 4 cyl 98 Accord EX....Purchased new, well maintained. 108K, trans fluid just changed, timing belt, water pump, etc. Notice a little surge (slip) at sharp stops - been doing this for a long time and it's so slight I never worried much about it. The average person might not even notice it. Like a little slip when shifing down.

Lately, feel a more noticable slip during first upshift when accelerating. Not consistent, maybe every 9th, 10th acceleration. More often at first start up in AM but not consistent there either. Just dumped a good amount of money into vehicle in hopes of making it last another 100K.

Any advice on what do do? Called Honda Service Advisor and they said "no major problems with that transmission / 108K miles. Usually would get a light indicating malfunction. Make sure fluid correct level" which I did...

Any advice would be appreciated - am I on a slow boat to transmission failure?

Thanks

user777

maybe an engine mount going?

rhuberty

Thanks - Engine mount did cross my mind - we were rear ended by a bus at 60K and had about 4K damage....I'm not sure if that explains the upshift slip though.

bolivar

Did you use Honda automatic transmission fluid on the change?

Honda specifies their fluid. I've read that if Dexron is used in place of Honda fluid, the tranny will not shift as smoothly.

haccord1998

Does anyone know if you have to remove the spindle nut on a 1998 accord to remove the front brake rotors? or just the 2 screws?

Thanks,

05ody

Hello everyone, today I tried to drive my car like standard without a clutch (1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th), and it felt almost like a standard! now my car has 161 000Km's and I would rather drive it like this as it is much more fun! does anyone have experiance with this, and if you have can you tell me that if I do this on a regular basis, will I mess up my auto tranny? I know some 98 V6's have tranny issues (although with mine now at 161 000km's I doubt it does, but you never know) will this mess it up? Im not sure if this is where I post this question or not but I want to know if I will mess up my tranny doing this! Thanks for any input!
P.S I also posted this in Honda Accord Sedan Froum

snuke

I read your posting regarding replacing your Michelins with Kumho tires. Now that additional time has passed, are you still pleased with the Kumho tires? I have a 2000 V6 Accord and I replaced my Michelins with the same tires and I feel I made a mistake. The newer tires seem to create more tire noise that the orginal Michelins which were quite expensive. If you are still pleased with the Kumho tires I may look into purchasing those in the future.

chestnut

I am very pleased with the Kumho tires. I currently have about 1,000 miles on them and they are much better in the rain than the Michelins. They are a little quieter than the Michelins but a little harsher ride over bumps. On the highway they are vibration free. I was a little concerned because after installation I noticed there were no visible balance weights on the wheels but after taking it on the highway they were perfectly smooth riding with no vibration.

rhuberty

Yes, did use the Honda Fluid and it was changed at the dealership (paid for so assuming they did the change). Thinking about changing it again myself to see if that helps....Again, most of what I'm feeling is very minor and almost unnoticable right now. I'd like to keep the car but now might be the time to trade.. Could it be that I just expect a car with 108K to feel like a car with 20K? I think my next step is to get the opinion from a tranny expert at a shop. Any expert comment or opinion from someone on this forumn would be appreciated.

snuke

Thanks so much for your quick response. I am currently having vibration with my Michelins with speeds of 60 mph or more. I have taken the car back twice to have the tires re-balanced. I have noticed a slight improvment the 2nd time but not as it should be. I read another posting indicating the Goodyear Integrities are also a good choice. By the way, have you had any transmission problems?

chestnut

No transmission problems (4 cylinder SE) but I only have 38,000 miles. I usually replace the car at 5 years old but have keep this one longer since I have had no problems except the SRS light coming on which the dealer fixed for free.

pancheaux

I have a 2000 Accord with the 6 cylinder. I have 97500 miles. Today, the charging system indicator light, the parking brake and brake system indicator light, and the door and brake lamp monitor lights came on and stay on while the car is running. At first, I thought that the battery wasn't being charged, but with the door and lamp monitor on also, I don't know quite what to think. Any body experience this problem, or have any suggestions?

snuke

I have a 2000 Accord V6 with less than 70,000 miles. I am not absolutely sure but I think I began having those problems nearly 3-years ago and I needed a new alternator. I was absolutely shocked considering the mileage and age of my car at that time. Fortunately, it was still covered under warranty and a new alternator was installed by a Honda Dealer.

user777

as snuke says. suspect the alternator.

if you can drive it to an autozone, they can put the vehicle's battery and alternator under load tests with a machine designed for this purpose and see what is potentially wrong with either.

normkol

Check any Honda Pilot forum to see what owners think about Goodyear Integrities.

They are a low price, OEM type tire. Very few Pilot owners replace them with the same.

That said, I have a Pilot, and even though they're not great, I will keep them until they are worn out. At 22k miles now, it looks like I will get no more than about 30k on them.

snuke

Well, thanks for the good information. It seems Goodyear tires will not be ones I will consider in the future.

pancheaux

I did just as user777 suggested Sunday evening, right after posting. They confirmed that the alternator was not charging. Had it changed today, along with the belts, which had never been changed, and all is well again. Thanks for the advice.

jeepgirl84

I have a 2002 Accord and it just hit 105k miles. In the manual it says to replace the timing belt and the water pump at the same time. I have not done that yet but plan to soon. My question is what will happen if I don’t replace them in time and the timing belt breaks while I am driving? What should I expect as far as damage?

normkol

I didn't say all Goodyears, just the Integrity.

Their more expensive tires are better rated, check the tire forum here or one of the wholesale Internet tire sites.

thegraduate

I've noticed already that one of my Goodyear Integrity tires is already balding around the edges, while maintaining good tread through the middle. This is odd, because I always keep my tires between 33-35 PSI cold.

My Cooper's and Michelin's never did this.

mrbill1957

To keep it short,

If the belt breaks, a few valves will probably be bent, and it may also punch holes in the top of a piston or two.

Your looking at MAJOR engine work, or even a new engine.

Mrbill

jplinlmt

No, leave the spindle nut on until you change the drive shaft or wheel bearing. The two screws are all you need to remove. (and the caliper, of course) I HIGHLY recommend that you not waste time with a handheld screwdriver, as these tend to cam out of the screw and booger it up, reducing the likelihood of success with the following. Get yourself an impact screwdriver (~ $25) with a #3 phillips tip. Consider even using a drop of grip stuff. Hold the impact driver squarely in the screw recess, firmly rotate counterclockwise, and WHACK it with a 3# hammer. Works every time.

jplinlmt

You should contact American Honda. They should be able to tell you the warranty criterion which seems to exclude you. Also they have been known to cover or split costs with Loyal Honda customers.

jplinlmt

I have to agree with bolivar. I generally distrust mechanics, but I REALLY distrust somebody who concludes you "need" all that expensive work, based upon a leaky clutch slave cylinder.

You have said nothing to validate his claims for all that service, no missed shifts, no clutch slippage. The leaky clutch cylinder seems to be located outside the bell housing, so no opportunity to soak the clutch plate with brake fluid.

You can get a new slave cylinder from Majestic Honda (My favorite site, parts lists and exploded views, online) for $20.40 Pick up a pint of brake fluid locally. Heck, for what this guy was going to charge you, you could buy snap-on tools and rent a garage with a lift (not that you will need one,) and you will still come out ahead. (Since it is unlikely he would have rebuilt yout trans. He might have actually replaced the cluch disk, unnecessarily.)

jeepgirl84

I was hoping you wouldnt say that haha. Well thank you for the heads up, I hope I get it in the shop before that happens...

snuke

I am glad to hear my advice helped. I hope everything continues to work well for you.

snuke

OK. I understand. I will check the other Goodyear tires, forums and other sites before I make my final decision.

maddoke

Haven't fixed this for 1.5 yrs due to no one being able to diagnose accurately. Pulling fuse by glovebox on passenger side turns off dashboard light for about 30 miles then comes back on. Curious if anyone knows if light going out for that 30 miles will tell computer hookup/diagnosis machines everything is OK, as I have to have it inspected for bi-annual state emissions test. Due to car having water in floorboard a few years ago, I was told it messed up computer under drivers seat and light would never register correctly again. I hate to waste money for computer error to be fixed on 145,000 miles. Any suggestions

pancheaux

If you bring the car to have checked out on the computer, the mechanic will probably tell you that no data is registering, ask if you have disconnected the battery recently, and tell you to put some more miles on it to warm the engine. Then the check engine light will come on again, and then the computer will give the diagnosis. That is what happened to me.

lletourn

I took my car (2000 Accord SE) to the dealer on Friday to check out the transmission (it was roughly) and SRS light that has been on for about 6 months. Even though both were going to be fixed under warrenty, they wanted to charge me $90 to look at it. I threw a fit and said I was going to take it to another dealer, so they waived the fee. The SRS light was on because of some seat belt sensor not functioning. So, basically add me to the list of people who's seatbelt caused the SRS light to go on!

zakiman

This will sound like a no brainer question, but I'll ask it anyway. My 02 accord 4cyl has 100145 miles, and most of the miles are highway (around 90%). Should I still follow the recommended maintenance schedule i.e. replace other timing belt and the belts/water pump at 105000 miles?. Should I replace the spark plugs at that interval as well or can I go longer, say 120000 miles, since most of the miles on the car are highway miles.
Finally, should I go to the dealer for these repairs, or any shop can do this type of work. The dealer in my area is asking around $800 for the timing belt/waterpump/balancer belt and $180 for the spark plugs replacement.
Some service advisors told that it is not necessary to replace the balancer belt, does this sound like a good idea ?
I know I am throwing lots of questions, so Thanks very much in advance for any input !

normkol

Being highway miles should not affect the service intervals for the components you are talking about. They are still being used and subject to wear.

The price for the belts replacement seems high. The price for spark plugs seems VERY high, since they are right on top and easy to get to.

There are many independent shops who service Honda, you might want to ask around for recommendations.

thegraduate

Call me crazy, but spark plugs should be changed for less than half that $180 price you were quoted. I would expect maybe $500 for timing belt/water pump replacement, as well.

Get another recommendation on prices, check around with other dealers' prices. I'd let the dealer that told you $800 and $180 know that you have MUCH lower quotes for those services, and would give them the option to match (if you happen to like that particular dealership).