Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

supersonic45

This pertains to my sons car which is a 2001 Accord 4 cyl automatic. His check engine light recently came on so he took it to the local Honda dealer for service. They informed him that it was probably due to the gas cap not being tightened sufficiently, but also that there was a code that warned of transmission failure. My son explained that the car was showing no signs at all of transmission trouble, but the teck stated that a new trans should be installed, the sooner the better. The car is covered by the extended warranty, but my question is...is there a code that can tell if you are having transmission failure. The car has about 60,000 miles and runs perfect with no indication of any problem with the trans. Does this make any sense?

lletourn

I'm not sure about the trans code. My trans just failed on my 2000 Accord 4cyl and I never got a warning light. It is easy enough to check if it is the gas cap (retighten, and drive it for a few trips of at least a few miles and it should go off...at least this is what the dealer told me when it happened to me). Good luck. From personal experience, it is a lot more convenient to schedule getting a new trans than having it fail unexpectedly, so if they'll cover it now it might be a good idea!

supersonic45

I agree with you lletourn, but it just seems strange that no trouble light came on about the transmission, only the loose gas cap. I suggested that they have the trouble light errased and continue to drive, just to see if a transmission code would come on. By the way, they wanted $100 to diagnose the trouble light for the loose gas cap. I would really like to know if there is such a thing as a transmission failure code that the computer can pick up. Does anyone know about this?

holthaus

Yes there is a code for transmission, in fact there is probably more than one, I have one on my Odyssey. I believe Auto Zone will allow you to use the computer reader for free, codes were standardized so the accompanying manual will explain the code briefly. My repair guy wrote down the code and explanation on my repair (ignition switch, NO code for that) ticket. He told me the transmission code is a hard code and should come back, he offered to recheck for codes after the check engine light comes back on which he was sure it would.

bolivar

On most later model Honda, the 'D' indicator on the gear selector display (or some such display) will usually 'blink' when the computer has sensed a transmission error message.

Look in your owners manual, this condition is documented and explained there.

(Once again, Bolivar's anguished cry =Read Your Manual=)

arie2

Hi There:

We have the exact same problem. I have a 2003 Honda Accord 4 cyl. I when i accelerate it too makes a whistle sound. Likewise it only does this when the gas pedal is pushed down.
I have brought this into 2 separate dealerships. They were never able to find the problem. They called Honda (Head office Technicians) they too could be of no help. Both dealerships held on to my car for about 2 days and yet could find nothing.

I was left with the recommendation to change my transmission with a rebuilt one. I refused to do that because they simply were not able to pinpoint the problem and as a result this seemed to be a hit and miss approach.

Have you or anyone else been able to find the problem to this

thx.

Arie
alb_35@hotmail.com

supersonic45

Hey Bolivar, I have read the manual from cover to cover and there is nothing stated about the drive position on the shift lever blinking. I have never heard of anything like that. If the computer is able to pick up any problem with the transmission, it should display that problem by having the check engine light come on. The check engine light only came on in my case because the gas cap was not tightened. I am still in favor of erasing the trouble code and driving the car to see if a transmission problem really exists. Putting a completely new transmission in a car that is not showing any problems with the trans is not acceptable to me. The car in question is a 2001 Accord with 4 cyl engine.

cintheworld

I had the timing belt replaced on my 2000 accord last year by a non-dealer. cost was only about $400, HOWEVER...about 1000 miles after the replacement, my car lost all of its oil because something or other cover walked out of place. I understand that there was a retrofit clip recommended when replacing timing belts for earlier models (94-97) because this was a known problem, but that the problem had been fixed in later models. Result was I had to have the belt replaced again. I have no idea if the problem resulted from the mechanic, or bad parts. But Honda won't pay for it. My recommendation to anyone is to have the $20 part retrofit clip installed if you are replacing your timing belt.

bolivar

2002 Honda Accord Owner's Manual

Page 213.

Automatic Transmission section.

"Shift Lever Position Indicator
This indicator between the fuel gauge and temperature gauge shows which position the shift lever is in.

The D4 indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). IF IT FLASHES WHILE DRIVING (IN ANY SHIFT POSITION), IT INDICATES A POSSIBLE PROBLEM IN THE TRANSMISSION."

CAPITALIZATION is mine.

Once again, =Read Your Owner's Manual=

thegraduate

If the computer is able to pick up any problem with the transmission, it should display that problem by having the check engine light come on.

Actually, it is the D4 Indicator on your instrument panel that should blink if there is a problem in the transmission, not the indicator near the shift-lever (I don't think there IS an indicator by the lever, is there?). A check engine light may or may not come on, but the D4 indicator flashing WILL indicate a transmission problem. Check your owner's manual next time, it will tell you the same thing.

jimmy1943

The heater knobs pull off and their plastic center section was broken ... there is a steel insert that keeps them working somewhat. I whittled a piece of wood to fit between the flat part of the steel insert and a flat part of the knob that directs light. I used a small birch tree branch of about 3/8 inch diameter and whittled opposite sides flat with a thickness left that was a tight fit. I pulled off the small clear piece of plastic that covers the end of the light box on the knob and forced the wood wedge in there and noticed where I had to cut it to length and pulled it back out and did that. Pushed it back in, put the small clear plastic piece back on the small light box and viola I had a fixed knob. Had to do it to both the fan speed side and the amount of heat side. Been working for a couple of weeks now with no problem.

jimmy1943

Right off idle the gas pedal stuck. I researched this and found it was the throttle body, which is where the cable attached to the gas pedal goes ... back on the left side of the intake manifold, behind the engine. Took the throttle body off ... disconnect the plastic tube from the air cleaner, pull off some electrical connectors, and loosen four nuts. It comes off pretty easily ... be careful to not damage the gasket. The inside of mine was black with carbon dust which I cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol and a cloth and q-tips. Reassemble in reverse order. Fixed my sticky throttle. Needed to be done at 50000 miles and at 110000.

jimmy1943

After a rain, when I left the trunk, a stream of water runs into my trunk from the inside portion of the light bar. It seems there is some source that fills up the plastic covers for the tail lights and turn signals. Anybody know how to fix this.

supersonic45

Thanks to Bolivar and thegraduate. The info about the blinking D light was indeed in my owners manual. You learn something every day. I will question my son to see if his light was ever blinking. At any rate, he will be getting a new trans in his 2001 Accord.

discovery2

I had a similar problem on my 98. I did new tires had brake rotors turned, rear wheel alignment each of these seemed to make a difference but the vibration never went away. I finally had the wheels checked and I had a bent rim on the rear. You couldn't see it from beside the car but the inner edge of the rim had hit a curb and was dented in. I put new rims on and no more vibration. Took a long time to figure that one out.

discovery2

I have a 98 V6 Accord Lx. I had the car shipped from Florida to Washington state. When the car came off the truck and was started the car would not idle normally. The RPMs would go from 1200 to 1800 back and forth. When the A/C is off the idle and surge is even higher

Any experience out there

nrcharagondla

Hi:

I have found the similar problem in similar way (during tranportation of my 99 accord v6 from east coast to westcoast). I have shown it to a mechanic and he diagnosed it to be a P0505 Idle control sys failure. he said it has nothing to do with the transportation .

Later I have shown it to Honda mechanic and they too diagnosed same. but they also advised me to replace throttle body. The estimate is around $800.

I am in dilemma if I need to spend somuch or show it to a mechanic for any quick fixes. if you find out anything let me know.

dear memebers: please advise if you have any further inputs into P0505 code.

nrcharagondla

Hi lggkerry:

Thanks for the posting. I am having similar problems with honda accord v6 99 model and the dealre says apart from "Idler control valve" suggesting me to replace "throttle body". All this costs $800 parts plus labor.

Have got any idea of throttle body? If that can go bad? can I believe this?

honda98

Within the first 10 minutes of starting the car, I get a peculiar problem. While I have my foot on the gas, the car lurches forward a bit over and over again about 15 times when in 1st or 2nd gear, and then the gas kicks in and the car accelerates normally. It will repeat this each time I try to accelerate in a new gear until the car warms up.

Also, on uphill grades at startup, acceleration will fade to nothing, even though my foot is pressing the gas normally and steadily.

After the car has warmed up, these problems go away.

Any thoughts?

pdana

Recently my 2002 honda accord started making a popping or hollow thud noise on the drivers side when going into or coming out of turns and sometimes over bumpy roads. I thought it was probably in the suspension or maybe even the axle. I took it down to the mechanic and he said that the bolts were literally falling out of the rack and pinion mounts allowing it move around. Has anybody ever heard of this or seen this? The car only has 44k miles on it. It was still under warranty when I bought it used. I can't find any paperwork that states any work was done to the car by the dealer. It kind of scares me to think they could just fall out.

discovery2

So here is the solution. I read all the info on the web and concluded it must be the Idle Air Control Valve. I talked with the dealer and they also believed that to be the culprit. The R&R isn't that difficult. I also replaced the EGR valve since I had been getting a recurring fault code for the EGR system IACV = $134.00 from Honda
EGR = $ 89.62 from Honda
Pull the battery
Remove air cleaner cover - and then air tube to the throttle body.
Remove all hoses connecting to the intake / throttle body. There are only about 5 hoses 1 gets removed the others get disconnected on one end. Disconnect 4 electrical connectors and then 2 nuts and 2 bolts removes the throttle body assy - with IACV attached.
Once I had it off I removed the old IACV and used carb cleaner to thouroughly clean the TB. Replace the O-ring gasket and 2 screws attach the new IACV.
When you reconnect the battery all codes are cleared - runs like a champ

elljay

Worse-case-scenario - what would it cost to replace the rear bumper of a 2000 Honda Accord EX?

jaedlee

The mechanic at the dealer states i've got an oil leak at rear engine oil seal with an estimate roughly $700. Anyone else have this problem? I've got 78k on the car. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

thegraduate

That largely depends on the labor rate.

I have a new front fascia on my car (1996 Accord Sedan)...new bumper, used blinkers and used chrome insert, all-total, including frame straightening and a new headlight, it cost me $1600. A rear bumper might be half that?

h0merj1

I have to change out the upper and lower radiator hoses on my 98 Accord and I'm not 100% sure I understand totally how to do it. I understand it's relatively easy to switch out the upper hose, just unclamp it and slide the clamp back and replace the hose. Now, for the bottom I'm told to first drain the radiator then once it's done draining, switch out the old hose with the new one. Once that's done, I'm told to fill the radiator with anti-freeze up to the top, keep the lid off and start up the car. Once it sucks it down, while the car is running, add more anti-freeze to top it off. Then close it up and let it run for about 10 minutes. One thing I'm not sure about is the anti-freeze itself. I see some that is 50/50 water/anti-freeze mix and others that is anti-freeze that has to be mixed later. Which works best?? I also saw something about filling the radiator with water after draining the old fluid and before filling it with new fluid. Is this important or does it not need to be done if I use the 50/50 mix?? If anyone could help me out with any suggestions on this, I'd GREATLY appreciate it!!

Thanks!

bolivar

HOnda is picky about antifreeze and tranny fluid. I would bite the bullet and buy Honda premixed 50/50 antifreeze.

When you pull the lower hose loose at one end, you are going to dump the antifreeze. If the hoses have spring clamps, I think I would replace them with good quality screw type clamps. Buy these when you buy the hoses.

If you dump the antifreeze on the ground, don't let dogs or cats drink it - they will drink it and just a small amount, such one tablespoon, will kill an animal.

imidazol97

Dumping antifreeze--it's best to go down the house drain. The sewage treatment plant loves the sugar from the glycerol molecules and breaks them down. If it does in the storm drain it's a pollutant in whatever river or body of water where it ends up.

sidpaul

I went in for an oil change and since my 60k service is coming up i asked my dealer for quote and what all is done.
Please find the items he mentioned needed to be done.
Also those marked with '@' are dealer recommended. The total cost is $410.
List:
replace engine oil and filter
rotate tires and inspect for wear and proper inflation
inspect front and rear brakes/adjust/service for wear/damage/cracks
replace brake fluid
replace engine cleaner element if dirty
check parking break adjustment
inspect exhaust system
inspect brake lines/hoses/ABS for damages and leaks
replace cabin air filter****add $75
inspect fuel lines/connections for looseness, cracks leak and wear
inspect tie rod ends, steering gear and boots for leaks/damage
adjust drive belts, inspect for cracksdamage and proper tension
inspect suspension components for wear, damage, loose bolts
inspect driveshaft boots for wear/damage
inspect all fluid levels and condition for leaks;add if necessary

inspect spark plugs, lubricate threads(replace
inspect vehicle underbody, frame and panels for damage and rust
lubricate hinges, locks and latches
replace transmission fluid@
replace engine coolant@
inspect and adjust valve clearance@
align all 4 wheels@
test lights and controls for proper operation
performance test 12v battery@
reset maintenance required light/minder

macex

I have a 5 speed manual 4 Cyl VTEC with 60K - that when accelerating reasonably hard (4k RPM) seems to sputter regardless of gear -- its almost like there is a fuel deficit or something ... I have read on other sites that there may have been a tech service bulletin about this problem.. (TSB 502 and 010402 as listed below:

Component Description:
111. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:GASOLINE
Bulletin Number: 010402
Bulletin Date: APR 2002
Vehicle: 2002 Honda Accord

Summary:
SUBJECT REGARDING CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS THAT THE ENGINE HESITATES BRIEFLY WHEN ACCELERATING. ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 636738 )I believe)

has anybody here had a similar problem ?? ..if so what was the fix ??
Thanks !!
:confuse:

bolivar

I agree. Mine goes down the john.

The question came from someone that seemed to be a 'newbie', since he seemed to think he would not lose antifreeze pulling the top hose.

I decided to let him find out for himself what happens when a sealed coolant system is opened up, anywhere. Since he appeared to be going to dump antifreeze, I just wanted to warn him about what might happen to the animals nearby.

user777

if it were me, i'd probably check my engine air filter and replace if dirty, pull a plug and see if in good condition, replace if not, and run a bottle of injector cleaner with a new tank of gas.

if the sputtering remained, i'd consider maybe i had a clogged EGR valve, or maybe even a bad cat converter.

zakiman

Should I start panicking ? I looked under the car today and noticed two drops of oil collected under the engine ( not sure what part it would be . the engine block?). Just to give you some history, the car has been loosing around 1/2 to 1 quart of oil every 5000 miles. Does anyone know if this is a beginning of an oil leak ? and what should I do next ? I do a lot of highway driving for my job and I drive the car hard at times, so could this be another cause?

any feed back is highly appreciated.

lletourn

On older cars I've had, there have been ways to identify the diagnostic code at home when a check engine/malfunction indicator light goes on. Is this possible for a 2000 Accord? I've checked through the manual and searched online, but haven't found any codes for the accord.

zakiman

Just to correct my previous post... the 2 drips of oil I saw were probably at the bottom of an engine mount. I assume there is a seal right there between the transmission and the engine ?

mrbill1957

If there are a few drops of oil dripping from the car, then it's not just the beginning of a leak, it's already a leak.

It could be a simple fix (valve cover gasket)or worse, (crank seal between engine and tranny), the thing that needs to be done is locate the source.

1/2 to 1 quart in 5k isn't that much of a loss, some of it is probably being used by the engine esp if your driving it hard, and some is being used by the dripping. Oil leaks are usually a gradual thing, it's very rare to go from a slow leak to a major leak.

The next time you have the oil changed, ask them to look around to see if they can spot the source.

Mrbill

msova

The wife rear ended me in my ranger truck....both vehicles messed up pretty good but my truck is at least drivable. We just got this car from a sibling for next to nothing so it's going to be tough deciding whether or not to fix.

I've managed to pull away the bent front section (left front mostly, radiator support, etc). I'm amazed to see that the radiator is fine. The power sterring resevoir was crushed. New one on order. There's now tons of air in that system, not sure what sort of issue that will be. I'll deal with that later.

Here's the main issue other than massive metalwork/repair:

The motor idles fine. When I rev up to 4-5K rpm it starts to cut out at nearly perfect intervals. I can then floor it and it will not really increase idle...just keeps cutting out.

It doesn't seem like a timing miss....moreso like something electronic (computer) is blanking out. Could something electronic have gotten jolted in the impact?

I guess it could be timing related as it does appear that the alternator belt got bumped enough to cause it to jump up onto the side of the pully. The belt was literally digging a groove into the platic timing cover just above the main pully on the crankshaft. I gmanaged to get the belt back where it should be and things seem to be lined up fine (ie-no bent mountings on the alt or ac compressor, etc). Could this have cause the timing belt to skip a tooth since they are both attched to the crankshaft?

Thanks

zakiman

Thanks mrbill for the advice.....I just would like to mention that I had the oil pan seal (the one that is between the oil pan and the engine block?) and the valve cover gasket seal replaced about 4 months ago. I just had the oil changed two weeks ago at the dealer (as I always do) and they didn't mention anything about the oil spots. I would imagine the tech would spot it during the oil change since I was able to see it by looking underneath the car. I agree with you that this is a beginning of an oil leak though. So is this common with Honda cars with high mileage ? I know you don't have a crystal ball but how many more miles would I get out of this engine ? I am a bit bummed out because I kept up with the maintanance of this car so I was hoping the engine would last longer !

elljay

Now finding out that the bumper has to be removed to do the repairs and then replaced. Should that be $800?

mrbill1957

Since you had the oil pan and valve cover gaskets replaced, I'm assuming they were seeping a little oil. Unless you had the engine cleaned, or at least wiped off very well, the dripping may be oil still working it's way down the engine causing the dripping.

You should get way more then 102k out of the engine.

Mrbill

msova

How is the power steering belt changed? Is the pulley on the pump adjustable (like an adjustable cam wheel?)?

msova

In the impact of this front end collision, the ps fluid resevoir smashed into the alternator. Although it came close, it doesn't seem that any crushed metal came into contact with the alternator and there is no evidence of a bent or cracked alternator, bracket, pulley, etc.

After noticing the belt was riding up on the pulleys edge, and literally cutting a groove into the timing belt cover, I managed to get the belt back where it should be. Now, the belt continues to slowly work its way back there.

Again, the pulleys all look to be perfectly aligned. The belt is definetely damaged (a bit frayed) on the one side that was encountering the timing cover. Could it be that this is causing the belt to wander? Is there a more preceise way of measuring the pulley alignment other than by eye?

thanks much

zacharychaos

Hey I've got a 1999 honda accord EX I bought used about a month ago and I'm going insane trying to figure out whats wrong with it. It has about 120000 miles on it.

Basically the car won't start, or even turn. When I turn the key, nothing happens. I can hear crickets chirping outside. I don't really understand. I actually replaced the battery but it still wouldn't start. All the electronics work fine. Horn/cd player/headlights etc

I tried to look up information about the ignition switch but supposedly its already been fixed on this vehicle, so Honda won't help me.

What the heck is going on?

surly98

Went for alignment today, they say I need a new ball joint. I took it home, jacked it up, put some muscle into the wheel and sure enough it wiggles. Not bad, yet, but undeniable. I took the wheel off and did some further inspection. The lower seems fine, and was fine during driveshaft replacement six months ago. But the upper has play, maybe 1/8 to 1/4". Like I said, I did the drive shafts recently, and full brake jobs in the past, so I'm familiar with taking most of this stuff apart, but advice on pitfalls and special tools would be great.

Do I have to take the shock/spring off, or compress it in place? Does the upper ball joint need to be pressed into place? Is it likely that the control arm needs to be replaced too? Any other potential knuckle busters here?

uofmiamiguy

Ive had this accord for 2 yrs now, 80,000 miles, 2 months ago i get in the car and start it with the clutch in but it has super low resistance it let me shift into gets but the friction point was like about and inch from all the way in and its usually about 6 inches, i put more brack fluid and it was fine, now it was working fine and all of a sudden i start it put the clutch in and it has no resistance and can shift into any gear. i checked fuses the clutch relay ones and i check fluids and there all fine, seems like there is no fluid being pumped into the clutch but im not sure how it works so i cant understand whats wrong. PLEASE HELP!!!

user777

brake fluid? confusion here.

there should be a mechanical / cable linkage between the clutch pedal and the transmission. maybe it needs to be adjusted.

h0merj1

Hi,
I have a quick question. I need to replace a driver side mirror (electrical) and the driver side fender on a 98 Honda Accord. I have found the parts online for pretty decent prices, but I wonder if it's a good idea to do the work myself. It looks pretty easy, but I have yet to find a definitive "how-to" site to show me EXACTLY how to replace these parts. I just thought it'd be cheaper to change them myself and take it later to have the parts painted at a Maaco or someplace. Can anyone offer any instruction or advice as to whether this is a good or bad idea?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

snw1977

I was driving my car two days ago when I noticed this light come one. I had just stopped to get gas, so thought maybe it came on because my gas cap wasn't on tight enough. I took the gas cap off and put it back one, this time tighter. However, the light was still on and is still on. This light came on a couple of months back, so I had AutoZone do a test to see what it was. That time, it was my spark plugs/wires. I never went back to AutoZone to clear off the code after these were replaced. Is it necessary to do that to keep the light from coming back on for this same issue? Think that it has something to do with this or another problem all together? I've unscrewed the gas cap off and on several times and I've also driven my car 3 times since I noticed the light coming on(I know that it takes 3 driving trips to clear) Does the light only clear if the problem is minor? My light is still on and I'm just wondering if it's something else? *crossing fingers that it's not* Any help/feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

rogrdat

I have 2002 Accord EX V6. I have sparingly driven it in the last 4+ yrs for about 29k miles (10k in the last 3 years). The car is usually in the garage for long periods of time (months) with little usage in between. I get an oil change about once a year and try to fit in obvious maintenance jobs in between. So far have changed all 4 rotors (rusted away), Transmission fluid chage and oil changes.

My question: Is what I'm doing ok or is there something that I need to take care of when leaving the car garaged for long periods of time? :confuse:
thanks,

bolivar

There are hundreds of 'errors' that can set the 'check engine light'.

You have to have someone 'pull the codes' and tell you what they mean. You may have something else rather than a loose gas cap.

lletourn

I just had a similar situation but the code was for my oxygen sensor. They said I had to have the code cleared or it would remain on (which of course makes you run the risk of not noticing if another code causes the light to go on). In your case though, it sounds like the light went off when your spark plugs were replaced and only recently came back on? If so, I'd have the code read again. The only self-clearing code I know of is the gas cap one, so I'm assuming you're right that the light only clears with minor problems.