Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

elroy5

This link is where you can get a Helm (Honda service) manual. They are around $70, but well worth the money. If you plan to do a lot of work on your car yourself, it is a must. Good luck. Link below

http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=&class%5F2=AHM&mscsid- =J176309T1V269H8WQNKBMU255V8GABED

user777

amazon.com sells the Haynes Repair Manuals:
http://www.amazon.com/ACCORD-1998-2002-Haynes-Automotive-Repair/dp/1563925389/sr- =11-1/qid=1166580302/ref=sr_11_1/002-5251380-5056823

typical manual on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-HONDA-ACCORD-OWNERS-MANUAL-ONLY14-99_W0QQcmd- ZViewItemQQcategoryZ34223QQihZ002QQitemZ120065969064QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

or for example:
http://www.books4cars.com/

bolivar

I would not spend the money (usually about $20) for a non-Honda service manual. Get the correct one from Helm Inc.

I would bet that the 'other' manuals will tell you 'Service of the SRS system is beyond the non-professional and should not be attempted' and will not be covered. These manuals take this path for several of the systems in an auto.

user777

bolivar,
what you say is true. the haynes manual does use this disclaimer - and i would say some of the descriptions and pictures are not particularly helpful. it is still a very useful document for the beginner like me.

specifically when working with the SRS system, because of the potential to deploy an airbag, i think caution is appropriate. we aren't just talking about being unable to put the car back together properly here... there is some bodily risk if you don't do things the right way.

i'm thinking of investing in the Helm, Inc manual that elroy5 had pointed me to before and suggested to avoidinghmwk in the recent post.

do these manuals provide good diagrams (maybe exploded views) and pictures or is it mostly text? how are the descriptions of the electrical systems, and or electrical diagrams?

as for the mechanicals, if it provided views like that found on majestic honda's site:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp
it would be a no-brainer purchasing decision.

i learn a lot from these views and parts descriptions alone.

i'm leaning towards purchasing a Helm's electrical troubleshooting manual myself.

elroy5

The Helm manual has views similar to the ones on Majestic Honda. The views on Majestic Honda may be from Helm actually. There is more detail than Haynes or Chilton manuals. I always get a "factory manual" for every car I own. However, even with the service manual, if you don't have any mechanical knowledge and some basic tools, you can definitely screw something up.

bolivar

I took a quick look, but not much of a look.

I would bet these are illustrations from a factory service manual or a factory parts catalogue.

Helm, Inc publishes the factory service manuals for most car manufactors. And has done it for years and years. The manufactor produces the manual, then Helm publishes/prints/sells it.

You also asked how helpful a service manual can be. I've done some work on cars. I'm not a professional mechanic by any means. The factory service manuals are the best there is. They will give the correct (In most cases. Manuals will have errors in them) sequence of things to remove, what must be removed, and special tools needed in some cases.

But, a couple of points.
1)Auto are now extremely complex. They all have computers and complicated electronics. Things are 'packed together' in a modern auto. The engine comparment and dash are tightly packed with components. Repairing a car is then necessarily complex.
2)Some repairs require special tools that you will not have. Either tools or an electrical 'scanner' 'box' may be required to re-initialize, or calibrate a new part and/or reset a error code.
3)Unless you completely read a procedure, you may jump into something that is more complex than you can complete. A manual will say "Remove A" then "Remove B" then give the steps in Repairing C that you are interested in accomplishing. Item A and/or B must be researched, often in a separate area of the manual, and may be very complex.
4)Older autos and their manuals were rather straightforward. The latest manual I've used was a 1997 Cadillac. This factory manual made no sense to me at all. I never understood its structure at all. Error codes set by the computer were scattered all over the manual. Some repair procedures were there with the description of the error code, some were not. Electrical diagrams were scattered. There was a strange coding of electrical diagrams, connector codes, and other electrical components. Overall, it made no sense to me, and was much changed from the previous manual I had delt with, a 1984 Olds one.

Because of the above things, and because I'm getting older and sometimes forget where I put a certain bolt or screw down, I'me just about to give up attempting any repairs of any complexity. And I've started buying extended warranties on autos I expect to own past their factory warranty periods. This is against my earlier personal code, but as I've become older, wiser, richer, fatter, blinder, more out of shape, and forgetfull - this is now what I've moved to doing.

Anyone want to buy some wrenches?

P.S. Always check eBay for factory service manuals. Most can be found on there, if you can wait for a while, and the price to pay is about half the new, Helm's price.

dayll

My 98 V-6 auto Accord blew out all the coolant on the freeway when a radiator hose came off. The temperature did not get too high and after the engine cooled a bit I rehooked the hose and replaced the coolant and everything is back to normal - except the heater no longer works. It blows air - but not hot air. Any of you Accordian mavens have any ideas. thanks, dayll

lletourn

My check engine light kept coming on and the code said the gas cap wasn't on correctly (or however they phrase it). It always seemed on fine, so I replaced the gas cap and haven't had any issues for a few days (knock on wood). My question is, is it normal for gas caps to stop working well? Are there any causes besides wear and tear I should be aware of? I have a 2000 Accord with 90k+ miles. Thanks!

user777

there's the possibility that there are air pockets in the system; there must be a process by which those air pockets are removed.

mrbill1957

I've had gas caps fail when I bring the car in for it's annual inspection. In WI they do a pressure test and I failed a couple of times with older caps.

Mrbill

elroy5

I don't know if the 2000 model had this or not, but when my Check Engine light came on for the gas cap, it was just the little plastic cable that holds the cap. It was jammed under the cap, causing it to loose pressure.

dayll

thanks 777 - that was it - air pocket. I took it to a shop and had the system flushed and now the heater is back working. thanks -dayll

user777

good news. sorry i haven't done my own flush and refill of the coolant system to know how to best go about getting rid of these voids. glad that was all it was. at some point though, i'm going to try to accomplish the same.

tran

Hi,
I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX, 4 cyl with 107K miles on it (just replace water pump and timing belt). Two weeks ago, I have the engine check light on, so, I brought the car to a Honda dealer. After running a check, they found two codes: One is a loose gas cap and the other is the computer malfunction! The service guy check the gas cap and it was tight, so he recommended me to replace the cpu for $1650 or I won't pass the state inspection. I think it's ridiculous to change the cpu although the car runs fine. I really love to put 200K miles on this car.
I wonder if any one has the same problem. Is there any way I can reset the computer on the inspection date. Is there any used computer out there I can buy for a lower price. Thanks for response.

Tran

elroy5

I think you should get a second opinion. Anything costing over $200, I would get another opinion on. Good luck

dayll

Tran, My 98 Accord (107,500 miles)has had the check engine light come on several times over the years. Being the nitwit I am I just unhook the battery for a minute or two and then rehook it up and - voila! check engine light is gone. I do this when everything seems to be running fine but the light is on. A day before my last smong test the damn light comes on after being off for a year so I did the disconnect/reconnect thing and went down to the smog place and the car passed no problem. so far this ridiculous solution has saved me several trips to have the dealer charge me who knows how much for something I obviously did not need. so far - so good - dayll

user777

i find this a bit hard to understand, that unhooking the battery and reconnecting it could clear the code to allow the vehicle to immediately pass inspection.

i *thought* if you reset/clear a code stored, the system then would have to have so many start cycles and/or hours of operation before the system reports to the tester that it was back in a "ready" state.

is it possible the shop you are getting the smog test done at is cutting a corner? i'm personally at a loss to know how you are making this happen, unless perhaps some codes that result in the CEL being illuminated are not critical to emissions and the system's "ready" status isn't affected by those.

dayll

777 -My knowledge of cars is limited to oil changes but my golfing buddy told me about disconnecting the battery to shut off the check engine light. My Accord persists every few months on turning on its Check Engine light and absoltutely nothing seems to be malfuctioning so I employ the disconnect thing and save myself the dealer charging me nearly a hundred bucks just to shut the damn thing off and tell it'll be five hundred more to fix this or that. I've had this car since new and have yet to suffer any dire consequences for ignoring the light. Like I said - I don't profess any mechanical knowledge - hell - Bolivar rightfully chided me here for beig too lazy to even read the owner's manual regarding a shifter issue. I don't know - the check engine light is still out and the car is running fine and it is two years to my next smog check. dayll

bimmer4me

which terminal do you disconnect, +/- or both?

elroy5

Next time the check engine light comes on:

Drive the car to your local Autozone, Advance Auto, or probably some others too. Many parts stores will take a scanner out to your car, and read the codes it has stored (FREE). Then you can find out what the computer is trying to tell you. What you do with that information is also up to you, but wouldn't you like to know what the light is coming on for? If they give you a code, and don't tell you what the code means, I can. Good luck, and Happy Hondaing

user777

technically, it wouldn't matter (+/-). however, i think it's safest myself if you disconnect the (-).

now then, if you have an anti-theft radio and don't know the code or have it written down somewhere, you WILL be sorry you disconnected the battery.

dayll

I totally unhook the battery remove it and clean the retainer box and all around it, and the battery too, I add water if it needs it and then reinstall it. It is out of the car maybe fifteen minutes. I reconnect everything, start the car, check to see if the light is out ( so far, always "yes'.)and go for a drive. Frankly, I could care less what that damn commputer is trying to tell me. Remember in 2001:A Space Odyssey the computer was reporting a part was about to fail and after the part checked out good they decisded to just leave the part in place and go on until it failed. It never did. That's me - I'll just wait until something breaks or whatever. I've found over the years that cars are like women - they perform best when you just ignore them. dayll

mcjane

I'm probably in the wrong place to post this question, but don't know where else to go so, here goes.

Does a 1998 Honda Accord have 4 wheel drive?
If yes, do you have to activate it when needed or does it do it automatically?

elroy5

No 4 wheel drive Accords.

bolivar

"Remember in 2001:A Space Odyssey the computer was reporting a part was about to fail and after the part checked out good they decisded to just leave the part in place and go on until it failed. It never did."

Yea, my sneaky 2002 Accord would lock me out of the air lock, errr, doors, hoping I would die out there. After breaking in a few times with my trusty set of keys, I finally took it to the dealership. I think they used a screwdriver to remove its locking brain inside the drivers door, replaced with a new one, and that solved HAL's (Honda Accord Ledan) deadly attempts.

thegraduate

There has never been an AWD Accord. Honda Accords are front-wheel drive. Are you shopping for All-Wheel Drive vehicles?

The only vehicles Honda makes or has made in the last ten years that come with 4-wheel drive/All-Wheel Drive are the old Passport midsized SUV(which was not a good vehicle - it was a rebadged Isuzu Rodeo), the CR-V compact SUV, the Pilot SUV, and the new Ridgeline Pickup.

bhattim

I have 99 Accord Coupe LX and the odd thing is after driving from point A to point B when I tried to open my driver's side door and get out it wont OPEN. The lock comes up but when I try to open the door it is not opening either from inside or outside. This is infact quiet irritating.
Any one has any clue as to what is happening. And should i take it to a dealer or any other mechanical repair shop.

tran

Hi day|| and user777,

Thanks very much for your hints. It's helpful and will save me a bunch of money. I like your analogy. That's true car is like girls who require lots of maintenant. If we keep ignore them, they will get used to it.

Tran

h0merj1

My 98 Accord LX has a problem where the engine vibrates alot when I'm driving and it tends to idle at 1000 rpm as opposed to the 800 when I stop. This problem does seem to be a bit worse in the morning than later in the day, but the problem still persists no matter what time of day I drive. I changed the front motor mount and that helped a little, but not entirely. I also had Honda change out my upper and lower radiator hoses thinking that would help and it hasn't. In fact, since they did that the temperature on my dash is showing it's closer (about a quarter of the way up) to the C as opposed to sitting in the center like it's supposed to. I've heard that the temperature sitting too close to cool is almost as bad as sitting too close to hot in the sense that it reduces engine performance and is harmful to the engine. This leads me to believe the problem lies with the radiator hoses perhaps not being installed correctly but Honda of course says that the gauge sitting too close to cool is "not a problem".

Does anyone out there have any possible idea what could be the root cause of the vibrating engine so I can take care of this problem once and for all?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

bsterr

My 2000 Accord LX 4-door is due for its 60,000 mile service. I requested a quote from a local dealer, which I know is the expensive way to go, but most repair shops are closed on weekends.

He quoted me $441, which seems way too high given the list of services. I pasted the services below (apologies for the formatting), I'd be very interested to hear just how overpriced this is, or any other advice. Thanks!

1)REPLACE ENGINE OIL, OIL FILTER AND DRAIN PLUG WASHER
2)CHECK ALL FLUID LEVELS, CONDITION OF FLUIDS, CHECK FOR LEAKS, & ADD AS NEEDED
3)CHECK TIRE INFLATION & CONDITION | ROTATE TIRES
4)INSPECT FRONT& REAR BRAKES 5)CLEAN & ADJUST PARKING BRAKE
6)INSPECT TIE-ROD ENDS, STEERING GEARBOX & BOOTS,SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, DRIVESHAFT BOOTS,BRAKE HOSES & LINES,COOLING SYSTEM HOSES & CONNECTIONS, EXHAUST SYSTEM,FUEL LINES & CONNECTIONS
7)REPLACE WIPER INSERTS, AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
8)INSPECT & ADJUST DRIVE BELTS 9)REPLACE TRANSMISSION FLUID
10)LUBRICATE ALL LOCKS,LATCHES & HINGES, WINDOW RUN CHANNELS
11)CHECK THE OPERATION OF ALL EXTERIOR LIGHTS
12)INSPECT THE UNDERBODY 13)FUEL INJECTION TREATMENT
14)CLEAN BATTERY TERMINALS 15)REPLACE ROTOR BUTTON
16)CLEAN THROTTLE BODY 17)ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCES
18)REPLACE A/C MICRON FILTER

thegraduate

I think my local dealer offers all of this service at 30,000 mile increments, and asks $299 for it (i'm in Central Alabama). I'm not positive, but I know it isn't over $350. For $441, they should include a transmission flush (which should be done at 60k miles, be aware).

bimmer4me

appears to be high...recently performed 60k service at my local Honda dealer (Palm Springs,CA) for 329.00.

user777

i can't say if this is expensive or not. you may find local dealerships having differing pricing and also differing on what items are actually performed on the major service(s).

you might want to call around, but like another poster said - check your manual. some dealerships have internet coupons or periodically run specials for some savings on major maintenance like the 30, 60 or 90K. sometimes you just have to ask.

i agree with another poster about the transmission flush, specially if it has never been done before. i see under item 9) replace transmission fluid. that may be a drain and replace or a flush and replace. can't tell. you might want to ask if they are just doing a once drain and replace, or doing it several (3) times. draining it once and replacing is not going to be complete enough to replace the old with the new.

also, have you ever had the brake system serviced / flushed? hey, i'm not a salesman! i just can't believe you only have 60K on the vehicle.

look at the recommended maintenance from the owners manual, then shop around... perhaps even an independent shop specializing in Honda vehicles will be able to do better and cover more items you need done.

beware that sometimes when they are in there inspecting stuff, they uncover additional work which should be performed. sometimes this is legitimate!

i have no idea what item 15) is. a rotor button?

bsterr

Thanks for all the advice, I actually called around and found another local dealership that did it for only $310...I mentioned the first dealer's price as I was paying and she said "yeah, don't go to those guys." So, lesson learned, dealers in the same area can be very different.

Got lucky on the inpsections, no extra work required!

lambour

I have a 2000 Accord DX 5-speed that is experienceing an intermittent clunking noise from what sounds like the front passenger side. It occurs primarily when the car hits bumps in the road, and usually only if the wheel is turned off center towards the left. You can "feel" the clunk through the gas pedal when it occurs.

It is not constant, but intermittent, so I suspect it is not a CV joint. I've had the struts and control arm bushings replaced. Each time the problem gets slightly better for a time and then returns and worsens. I haven't (yet) located anything loose in the front end on my own.

Has anyone every heard of such a problem before? I've already dropped a lot of cash on this, so I'm hoping to get some ideas before the next visit to the mechanic.

Thanks very much!

user777

good for you. with a call you save what $90 or more? yeah, i learned my lesson long ago about costs at surrounding dealerships, also availability of coupons and specials and the like.

it never hurts to ask.

05ody

Hey, Im woundering about the black stuff that is at the end of my tailpipes sometimes. I am usually very gentle on the car, but every once and awhile I will open her up (let her rev to about 6000RPM or so)and every time I do this, which is uaually about once a month, there is black stuff, almost like soot or something, at the end of my tailpipes. This is very noticeable because I have chrome tips. The last few years, I have noticed something that sounds almost like a valve tick. I am just woundering if the black stuff and valve tick is just a result of carb buildup, and when I let it rev high, it is just blowing some out. I own a 1998 Accord V6, and is my dailly driver around town everyday.

normkol

I don't have an answer for you, but I hope someone does. I just had my 2000 Accord SE in yesterday at a mechanic to check for the same noise. He says struts and strut braces (?).

I'm debating whether to have it done or not, in your case it does not seem to have helped.

teeemer

I have a 98 accord ex v-6. It just threw out code p1491 EGR valve insufficient lift. I have read that there is a Technical service bulletin 98-081 out from Honda USA regarding this problem. Anyone know if there is a corresponding TSB out for Canadian cars?

Thanks

Teeemer

user777

my '03 ODY had a ticking noise, passenger front heard when driving slowly over slightly uneven pavement. strut tower welds had not been de-burred properly during assembly.

dismounting the strut, deburring, applying lubricant and re-assembling made the front end quiet.

i think this has affected some Pilots and MDXs as well.

in otherwords, it's plausible.

bgrewal

Boy you give me some hope. I own Honda Accord 2000 EX V6 with 107000 miles. I have been worrying sick hearing about transmission problems.It seems in your case shuttering wouldn't come from the breaks since, when you are cruising you are not using breaks. However, I had the same problem from the back breaks and changing rotors fixed that problem.

bgrewal

lizjon9197

My 2002 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder engine is making a pinging/tapping sound when the engine is cold. It runs and sounds fine when the engine is completely warmed up. Does anyone know what could be the problem/fix? Thanks!

user777

FWIW: my '02 I4 has about 50K on it, and makes a bit of noise when it's cold, but not for long. i don't warm it up in the driveway; typically i just start it, back up, and drive off (not super fast..) :shades:

i presume it's a combination of valve adjustment, oil temp and flow, and thermal expansion related, but nothing beyond what is expected.

the noise isn't there long and isn't overly loud. sorry - not very scientific.

perhaps at 60K or so i will have them do a valve adjustment.

i'm interested in any insight other's may provide on your question as well.

lizjon9197

The engine is burning a little oil also - less than 1/4 quart every 1000 miles, and the engine oil is getting dirty earlier. I had to change the oil after about 4000 miles the last time - I normally change it after 6 months or 6000 miles. I don't know if all these are related.

Do you notice anything similar?

user777

no, not really. between changes at about 4.5K miles, maybe it's burning 1/2 a quart, maybe a bit less. it doesn't seem your consumption is overly high, but others might disagree.

are you absolutely sure they are letting the stuff really drain then unscrewing the filter before putting back on the drain plug and putting on a new filter?

reason i ask is i have the time to do that now that i'm changing my own, and also, i'm using a little additional clean oil to flush out remnants in the pan while the plug is out and verify it's running clear.

i mean if you were to halt the drain process when there's still a stream of dark stuff, or you're not changing the filter (uggg), then i can imagine it's already pretty darkened not soon after driving off following the change.

i'm going to see if i'm still having good luck with the 4.5K intervals. To me 3K seems too short, and 7.5K too long for non-synthetic and the stop and go driving i'm doing.

one thing you might check is your PCV valve.

google it and how to check if it's sticking.

if it's sticking, you'll have more oil consumption. whether this may put more combustion contaminants back into the oil (and make it darker) i don't know, but i think it's possible. it is easy to check and cheap to replace.

elroy5

If you take a pair of pliers, and squeeze the PCV hose, you should hear the PCV click (little metal ball rattling around). Your engine should not consume enough oil, between changes, for it to be noticeable. I would be concerned about that. When the engine is started up cold the clicking of the fuel injectors is pretty loud. Are you sure that is not the sound you are hearing? I doubt it, but I guess it's possible.

snuke

So bgrewal, are you saying you have a Honda Accord 2000 EX V6 with over 100,000 miles and you have not had any transmission problems thus far?

lizjon9197

I change the oil myself so it is completely drained before adding new oil. Putting in new oil to flush out any remaining dirt sounds like an interesting idea. I might try it.

I didn't know there's a connect between PCV valve and oil consumption, but I will check it.

lizjon9197

I think the sound I hear is more like tapping than clicking. Also, if I accelerate a little bit, the sound goes away (or it gets overwhelmed by other noises). I can hear it more clearly if I let go of the gas or when it is idling.

The oil consumption also concerns me. I owned other Honda vehicles and they didn't use oil as much as this one does.

kulds

I have a 98 accord, which I bought used last year. I had to have my (auto) transmission rebuild by aamco last year as it gave out with only 92000 miles on it. (I know some more folks who had the same problem at the same mileage). Anyway, I had the car in for an oil change, and the technician reported that the CV boot has begun to crack. Is is common for the accord to have this sort of problem? Also, the rebuild transmission is under warranty, so is such a problem covered under it?
After these problems I do not think that the accords are worth the money we put in them.