Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

mrbill1957

The transmission is a separate part from the CV boots. The warranty for the trans doesn't cover CV boots.

Eventually, all CV boots begin to crack, and need to be replaced. Some seem to last longer then others. The original boots on my 88 Accord started to show signs of cracking after 10 years and 100k miles. I replaced them and had the new boots split in 2 years 20k miles.

Other then tires, brakes, exhaust, normal tune-up parts, battery and the CV boots, that's all I've put in the car, so I can't agree with your last statement.

Mrbill

snuke

bgrewal, are you saying you have a 2000 EXV6 Accord with over 100,000 miles and you have not had any problems with your transmission?

Mr_Shiftright

CV boots cracking at 92,000 miles is quite normal.

itsybitsyskier

I am new to this board. Please help me out here!

I have a 1999 Honda Accord LX!

I am having a problem with my windshield wipers.

I am not sure if it is the switch or the motor that is the problems.

My symptoms are:

Everytime it gets cold like when it snows/rains or when it is really cold tempature outside. My windshield wiper will not work.... Let me explain what I mean by this is that a year ago when I turned my wipers on....none of the settings would work. I turned them off and turned them back on and the high speed setting would only work... That afternoon all the speed settings would work. Yesterday, I turned my wipers on the the high speed setting worked and then after about 10 minutes all the speed settings started to work....

This does not happen too often. It only seems like it happens during cold temperature in the rain or snow.....

What do you think it is... Is it the a possible switch that is causing the problem and if so, where is the switch at and how do you replace it?

Is it the motor? If so, where is the motor at and how do you replace it?

Your kinds words would be very much appreciated to help me out!

Thanks in advance!

elroy5

The switch is #13 in this illustration. It should not be hard to get to it, if you would like to try changing it yourself. $62 for a new one from Majestic Honda. Good luck

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1999&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=COMBINATION+S- WITCH

itsybitsyskier

Thanks. I will look into that!

dayll

What would be a fair price to have the CV boots replaced? dayll

Mr_Shiftright

Can't help you without a flat rate manual. All cars are different in terms of labor. If they are just cracked but not split you can wait, but if they are split open and grease in leaking out, you may find it wiser to replace both axles as part of a rebuild kit. Problem is, once you've gone through all the trouble of pulling the axle out to replace the boots, you might as well install rebult axles on a higher mileage car.

thegraduate

I guess I'm abnormally lucky... 11 years and 170,000 miles on my original ones. I guess I should get them inspected? How will I know if they are problematic?

Mr_Shiftright

You should inspect the boots for cracks and grease leakage sure; if they are still intact and you aren't hearing any banging noises on sharp turns left or right, they're probably still serviceable.

elroy5

As long as the boots don't tear, and loose all the grease, the axles will last a long time. People who travel on bad roads, with rocks and such flying up into the boots, will have a higher failure rate.

thegraduate

I'm such an automotive know-nothing, I'm not exactly sure where to look. I have no noises coming from my suspension. Actually, the car drives and sounds about like it did when new. I do have 170,000 miles on the original shocks, however. If I'm comfortable with how it rides and drives (it is a little more softly-sprung than my 2006, which is ok), is it absolutely pertinent that I get new ones (I'm a 1996 LX driver, so I realize I'm out of the correct forum, but it is somewhat relevant I hope)?

Thanks for all of your help!

Best,

TheGrad

elroy5

If the boots tear enough to allow the grease to escape, it will make a mess with the suspension, and sometimes the inside of the wheel will sling the grease all over the place. When an axle starts going out, it will make a clicking sound while turning. As mentioned before, if it is caught before all the grease is lost, the axle will not be damaged, but if the car has a lot of miles on it, and you have to remove the axle to change the boot, changing the axle at the same time seems logical. They don't cost all that much, and the labor is the same either way.

Mr_Shiftright

Really bad shocks/struts will cause your car to waddle in sharp turns, and will cause "cupping" of your tires....like a scalloping effect.

If you find yourself (your body) tightening up when you make high speed turns, and the car gets unstable exiting the freeway, etc., and feels like it's leaning or pushing the guard rail, that's another sign of weak struts.

thegraduate

Sounds like mine are fine then... I can still take a 30 MPH curling off-ramp at 40-45 with no problem whatsoever. I guess since more than 100,000 of the 170,000 miles were pure interstate use (fairly smooth interstate, actually) the shocks have some life in them still. My car never feels unstable; maybe an extra bounce on the interstate after gonig over a bump than my new car would produce, but nothing that has EVER threatened my control of the vehicle, just more "Buicky" bouncing. Truthfully, I'd rather be in my old car on the roughest roads, because it rides softer on the bumps!

Thanks a lot Mr. Shiftright,

TheGrad

Mr_Shiftright

Well if you feel confident in the car that's the measure then...and if there's no unusual tire wear, no need to do the struts.

Best thing to do is during oil changes, check the struts for any leakage...that's one tip off that failure is imminent.

blufz1

The extra bouncing may mean you should have the shocks checked. I know what you mean re the bumps. I bought Goodyear assurance comfortreads which greatly smoothed the ride. Downside is they cost you mpg.

thegraduate

I recently went from low-end Goodyear tires (Integrity) to Bridgestone Potenza G009s (a performance-minded tire) and got much better handling. The bouncing is not severe at all, and it's not enough that anyone other than me notices, so I'm not too worried. Thanks for the advice though! It is always welcome...

TheGrad

rlambour

I have a 2000 Accord DX 5 speed that is experiencing an intermittent clunking noise that sounds like its coming from the front end. You can "feel" it in the pedals too; it feels like something is loose.

I tend to get it when going over bumps in the road with the steering wheel turned off center toward the left. It's not a constant clunking and it doesn't happen when the wheel is turned toward the right, so I don't think its a CV joint.

I've had the struts and the control arm bushings replaced. Each time, the noise improved for a while and then returned and is continuing to get worse. I can't find anything loose on the car.

I've dropped a lot of cash on this already, so I thought I'd see if anyone out there has experienced a similar problem and found a solution before I go back to the shop again.

Thanks for reading!

thetooth

98 LX automatic at 115K miles. Just replaced brake pads and noticed the rotor wobbles when grasped and rocked back and forth. Put wheel back on and it is more pronounced.
Driver side wobbles, right side does not.
No noises but car seems to 'float' a bit when driven as though the sidewalls of the new tires are really soft.
Bearing or CV joint or something else? No grease showing.
Thanks!
TheTooth

activex111

I have the same problem on my 99 V6 accord (previous posts). I hear a wierd whisteling sound at idle and it increases when i tap on gas. I took it to a local garage today (honda specialist) and he told me that an alternator diode is probably gone and i need to replace alternator (cost, $345 +tx)this kinda sounds strange to me. Why would a bad diode give out a humming sound? Can anyone please give me some input? thanks

carkrazy2

Hi Everyone!
I Just Recently Purchased A 99 Accord EX And My CD Player and Radio will Not work They will not light up or do anything. i have no idea on what to do anyone with Suggestions. I Hope This Is a quick Fix. Any Help would Be Really Really Appreciated

Mr_Shiftright

Most decks have an inline fuse behind the unit in a white twist-off cartridge.

njcanuck

I have just purchased a used 1999 Accord EX Standard with 50K only. I read that the timing belt should be changed at seven years and also change the waterpump...are both of these necessary with this low a mileage...also I did not get a manual and don't know what the keyhole is down by the gas cap release lever. Your comments are appreciated.
Regards,
NJ Canuk

thegraduate

Timing Belt - I'll let someone else make the call there, but i'd do it when it says too. If you change the belt, change the water pump at the same time (the timing belt must be removed to get to the water pump, taking lots of $ in labor fees to do, so you might as well do it then). Mileagewise, I know the belt is supposed to be done at 90k miles; not sure about the 7 year thing, someone else will have to doublecheck me.

The keyhole by the gas cap release lever is to lock the trunk. You can lock the trunk and glovebox with the master key, so that when you turn the car over to a valet (with the valet key, of course), he/she cannot get into your private things.

Hope this helps...

njcanuck

Thanks thegraduate, at least I know "the Key" to one of the questions...as for the 7 year thing, I do not know if time alone will deteriate a timing belt.
Regards,
NJ Canuk

elroy5

You are probably good on the timing belt for a little while longer, but don't wait too long. Is the 7 years for severe conditions, or normal. The keyhole by the gas cap release is to lock the release levers. This way you can use valet parking (with the valet key) and still lock stuff in the trunk.

carkrazy2

Thank You A Bunch For Your Help I Really Appreciate it It's Sorta odd To Be Driving with out the radio once again Thanks!!!

user777

i presume you checked the fuse for ACC... i think it supplies power for the radio and accessories outlet.

anyway, there is a fuse block on the left side of the dash where you open the driver's door, and another on the right-side near the hinge for the front passenger door.

check the fuse blocks there.

carkrazy2

I Did The Fuse was Bad so Right Now I am in the process of of ordering another fuse.

toyoman1

Car has 71K on it. Noticed just the other day when I start it up the parking brake light comes on and stays on. After about 20 minutes of driving when the car warms all the way up it goes off. Then for the next ten minutes it will come on only when the brake is depressed. Then after those ten minutes it wont come on at all no matter what I do. I just bought this car three days ago and was wondering if it was a pad indicator. The fluid in the reservior was full. Also this was a Honda Certified Used Car last year so I figured it was in good shape. Clean carfax... anyone have any idea???? Thanks

thegraduate

There is no dashboard brake pad indicator on any Honda (and I've never heard of one on ANY car). The brake pads will audibly squeal when the brakes ARE NOT applied when the pads need replacement.

The "BRAKE" light, when lit at a time when the emergency brake is released, indicates a problem in the brake system, and should be checked out by a local dealer.

toyoman1

Yeah I know it supposedly indicates a problem with the brake system, however could it just be a sticking e-brake cable or something. And why does it go off when the car warms up? Also my owners manual says that it goes on most of the time when the system needs brake fluid. It also states that sometimes it will come on even after the fluid is filled back up, because low fluid can mean worn brake pads. So... I dont really know what to diagnose. Also sometimes when I am driving and it is on it will go off if I fool around with the parking brake handle. So what do you think it could be!?

elroy5

Try this. Take the cover off of the master cylinder, and push the rubber boot back up into the cap (it may be sagging). Just something that has come up before, and guessing it might be your problem also. Good luck.

bolivar

Or the switch on the emergency brake is not working correctly.

330blast

I am the original owner of a 1999 Honda Accord LX (purchased in Nov. 1998) with 87K miles.

I replaced the front brake pads at 40K and then again at 73K and was told the rear brakes are fine.

Recently, the brakes started to make noises. I am wondering how long usually a set of brake pads last (for both front and rear) and under what kind of conditions do I need to replace the rotors?

I drive the car in normal conditons, non-aggressive driving style. My car has disc front and drum rear.

Thanks.

toyoman1

Elroy your a genius. I took the cover off and sure enough when the engine was cold that thing need pushed back up. I did this after the car sat overnight before I started it first thing in the morning, when I started it the light never came on. It hasnt come back on since any of the other extended periods that it has sat. Thanks for saving me tons of money from taking it to the Honda Dealer. CHEERS!!!! YOU ROCK!!!! :shades:

elroy5

I have to give the credit to all the Honda techs that I've learned from over the years. A couple of them have their own shops, and have been working on Hondas for over 25 years. Hondadude here's to you!

smokefreeclass

Hi, I read you message and was wondering if you ever found a solution. My 98 accord ex coupe does the same thing until it gets warmed up. I watch the temp gauge and know the exact point at which it is going to surge. I did notice that at that exact point the choke cuts off. Because if I put the car in nuetral at that point in the temp. gauge it has a normal idle speed. I wonder if when the choke cuts off the engine gets a quick squirt of gas to make it stumble like that. I noticed on an older car of mine that the choke opens up just a hair more before it actually cuts off. Anyway, if you find a solution please do let me know. thanks

bolivar

Choke?

A fuel injector motor does not have a choke.

carnut20

Can you describe exactly how you pryed out the clock.

carnut20

1998 Honda Accord. Clock light is out.. Does anyone know exactly how to pry out the clock in order to replace the battery

lletourn

I'm assuming the 98 is the same as the 00 accord in this respect. You can easily take the clock out by slipping anything into the edge (scissors, screw driver, etc) and using it and your hand to wiggle it back and forth. Once it moves out enough you'll be able to just pull it out the rest of the way with your hand. Hope that makes sense, it is a bit difficult to put into words.

My clock light is out too and I've never bothered to look for a battery. It sounds easy to replace so I'll have to look into it!

user777

my '02 light went out. i rapped on the dash. it's working again. magic. :shades:

bolivar

It's not a dead battery, it's a burned out bulb. And I've not seen anyone find the correct bulb anywhere other than at a Honda dealership.

jolpot

Hello Everyone,

(I have read previous posts and adding to that)

Yesterday morning, I started the car and am pretty certain that all the lights turned off. I wasnt strapped. My wife sat in the passenger seat and strapped up and we started moving. The last thing I did before noticing the SRS light was ON was strapping myself.

I have written to the dealer and registered on the honda website to see if there were any recalls with the seat-belt issue for my VIN(unfortunately not).

Before anybody suggests, possible seat-belt latching issue, there are 2 things which I would like to highlight and hope to God that it has nothing to do with issue 1 as earlier posts talked about a wrecked alternator. Can somebody please confirm this as well?

1. Almost a week back, while driving home from work, I heard sounds which I cannot duplicate. It seems to come from the wheels, like metal contacting metal. I experimented to see if it was pressing the brakes, or gas pedal(both had no effect in increasing or decreasing the sound).

What I have observed though is it always seems to occur when I am turning left and when I am at stop on an incline and hurtle down a hill. A colleague checked the CV boots to make sure there was no leaks.

2.Trivial issue - When temperatures are below 20, my car doesnt start if I turn ignition. The car cranks and usually the 5th or 6th attempt it starts...this has been a chronic problem since 2002 and I had posted about it and I still dont have a resolution.

Thanks in advance and apologies about the long post

user777

I think there might have been a recall on the SRS system. Not sure. You'll have to investigate.

If the light is on, and your wife is in the seat, of course, she's not protected in the event of an accident.

Not good.

See if piling on additional weight (have your wife hold it, don't force feed her) and see if the light goes off. Could be a bad seat sensor, or poorly mounted or something like that.

Of course, your wife may be an extremely light person. I doubt she could be that light though. I'm thinking the threshold is something like 70lbs or so.

Seems like a sensor problem and you need to get it fixed ASAP or your passenger is not protected by the bag in case of an accident.

As for fuel cranking when cold... try this. Turn your ignition to ACC and hold it for 5-10 sec or so before you take it to the Start position. Allow the fuel pump to spool up and establish pressure. Don't put your foot on the accelerator during the start process. See if that helps.

jolpot

user777,

Thanks, I am talking to Honda to see if they can offer me extended warranty. But, dealer wants to charge me $100 diagnostic fee for checking what the SRS light is for. Do you think I should take the car to Autozone and figure what the error code is ?

Wrt to airbags, wont both the airbage deploy or only passenger? I thought I read both airbags...that sucks.

I will check on piling more weight on the passenger seat and see if it helps.

I will also check ignition in ACC.

Any thoughts about issue 1?

chestnut

I have a 2000 Accord SE and had the SRS light come on. The dealer told me there would be a diagnostic fee but it turned out to be a seat belt sensor which they fixed for no charge. Apparently the seat belts are covered for life of the vehicle.

user777

if wife isn't in seat and the light for the passenger seat is off, then wife gets in and it goes on, that is one problem.

if you get in car and start vehicle and SRS light on the instrument cluster is on, that is something else.

i think the SRS issues is read by a different type of reader.

personally, i'd call Honda corporate.

I think the SRS system is covered by a different warranty than the basic vehicle warranty. I do not think personally, the dealer should charge you to diagnose a safety system, and I think, like I said, I thought I read something on a recall for earier accords SRS related. But you have to research it.

Ask an independant specializing in Accords over the phone what it would take to diagnose the problem.