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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    Chestnut/user777,
    Thanks Chestnut, I read your post eariler in the thread as well.

    user777, regardless, the SRS light stays on...Hmm, this is news to me...Hopefully, the errror code can be read at auto-zone armed with I can talk to Honda...My VIN does not have a recall for the said problem is what I am told.

    The dealer basically told me the same thing, if its a seat belt related issue, they will not charge me otherwise, running the safety test JUST TO LET ME KNOW what was wrong will cost me $100.

    This is unfair and trying to Honda to waive this fee for me...My case has been forwarded to the regional manager who will decide it on a case by case basis...I will write back what happened...

    To screw up yourself and pay up is one thing.

    To start the car and SRS light pop up and a day of researching on the net and staring at $800-1300 which for NO FAULT of yours is another.sigh.

    Thanks to both of you...
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    which lite? the one on the instrument cluster near the battery and other indicator lamps, or somewhere down near the radio closer to the passenger seat?

    no, i'm not thinking seat-belt, i'm thinking pressure sensor in the seat.
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    I am sorry, I meant the SRS light alongwith ABS, battery and engine lights. BTW, There are no other lights on the accord se closer to the passenger seat other than the radio/cassette or cd player.

    I understand the pressure sensor in the seat and see if adding more weight helps remove the issue(last known weight was more than 125lbs on the passenger, I am around 150lbs).
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    I watched my Honda repairman pry out the clock face by inserting a small screwdriver around the edge and install the battery. The entire process did not take 10-minutes.
  • 330blast330blast Member Posts: 49
    I replaced the light bulb on my 1999 Accord LX. Just use a small flat head screw driver and prety out the clock from the side. Fairly straight forward. The battery is more obvious to see than the bulb.

    Got the bulb at Honda dealer for $3.

    Good luck.
  • vicktoryvicktory Member Posts: 7
    I think I am having the same trouble. I have a 2001 Accord Coupe V6-ex. It has 101,000 miles.

    It is fairly cold here in NJ. It has been for the last week. I just started it at lunch and had this louder than normal humming/straining type of sound when idling and it continued on as I drove. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced at 92,000 miles.
  • daimnedaimne Member Posts: 1
    i have brake light problem similar to yours. have 2001 Accord coupe exl, every time I open the trunk it turns on and stay for a while, then suddenly disapper.
    Have you found any new explanations?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Your problem may be a little different. If opening/closing the trunk triggers the BRAKE light, you may just have an intermittent brake light bulb.

    As in my 88 Accord, I'm assuming your 01 monitors the brake lights for burned out bulbs. If the contacts on the bulb are corroded for some reason and it's making a poor contact, closing the trunk could shake things to make it fail. Check to make sure the brake lamps are all working. I also found on my 88 that changing a bad bulb with the ignition ON doesn't reset the system. You have to shut off the ignition once the bad bulb is located and replaced to reset the bulb monitor.

    Mrbill
  • miggymasemiggymase Member Posts: 6
    I've had my 2000 accord for 5 years and over time the following bulb have blown. The clock (which has been replaced) tempature control, the area on the cluster that shows the milage and the bulb behind the hazard button. I refused to pay the dealer because of what they charged for the clock bulb replacement. any advice or help on doing this myself.
  • miggymasemiggymase Member Posts: 6
    The CD player in my 2000 accord coupe works sporadically. I'd like to upgrade it to the 5 disc player that is standard on the 2001. Its sunday and I found one on Ebay but am not sure if the 2001 stereo will fit in my 2000 and the dealer is closed. Does anyone know???
  • coudiebugcoudiebug Member Posts: 26
    Similar to Vicktory and Roxanne, I am experiencing the same whirring or humming noise and then was greeted by the battery, brake and brake lamp lights on my dash. This happened last nite, though the brakes seem fine, the emergency brake doesn't stick and the brake lamp lights are working. I checked previous postings and it seems to point to the alternator. Anyone have similar dealings? Can the car be driven (it appears to be in fine running condition).
  • miggymasemiggymase Member Posts: 6
    The exact same thing happened to me on a road trip and it was definately the alternator, expect to spend about 500.00.
  • miggymasemiggymase Member Posts: 6
    thx but Unfortunately I was on a road trip and was 500 miles from home. This link would have helped me a couple of years ago.! Have you had bulbs blowing on the dash? I've got 3 out and need them replaced
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i'm thinking it's not the alternator but something wrong with the rectifier circuit inside the alternator. i don't suppose you can replace that conveniently. if so, itt would save more.

    $500 for an alternator? that's insane.
  • tylerwm94tylerwm94 Member Posts: 26
    I just wanted to do a survey of you Accord owners out there. I have a 1998 Green Accord EX (4 cyl) with significant clearcoat peeling and paint fade on the hood, roof, and trunk lid. Driving around town, I've noticed several other green Accords of the same generation with a similar issue. Are other people having this same problem? Is it just with the green ones? What have you done about it?

    Thanks!
  • raleigharaleigha Member Posts: 3
    Have you heard anything about this lawsuit yet? I have a 2002 honda accord v6 that is having the same problems. It is at the dealer and I am trying to get Honda to pay for the transmission. Is this lawsuit on the web anywhere? If so do you know the link?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I had a 2002 Honda Accord V6. The widespead problems with the V6 Accord transmission was for previous years, 2000 and 2001, I think.

    I've read of very few problems with the 2002 Accord V6 transmission.
  • raleigharaleigha Member Posts: 3
    My Transmission is definitely the problem. Honda is paying for the parts (transmission) and I have to pay for the labor. So even though the problem was mainly for 1999-2001 honda accord v6's it is still a problem with the newer honda.
  • ewlauewlau Member Posts: 2
    I have an 98 Accord with a busted cigarette lighter. Actually the lighter still works, but the backing that held the socket in got pulled off. How do I open up this area and fix the lighter socket?

    Are there instructions to do this (relatively) simple repair?

    Thanks all.
  • ewlauewlau Member Posts: 2
    I got the exact same issue (98 Accord V6). Paint completely faded from the front and back center of the roof.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Took my new coupe to the dealer today to get the tranny flushed and the oil changed and a four wheel alignment. 72K on it btw. The service advisor told me that I had some kind of extended warranty on my transmission due to a Honda Tran Problem.

    At any rate they looked the car over and told me in addition to what I requested they told me I need to replace two broken engine mounts (front and side) and that I also need a throtle body cleaning. Then he told me that my brakes are aftermarket non honda OEM pads and rotors and he recommends replacing with Honda Components. I JUST BOUGHT THIS CAR LAST WEEK FOR $9400. I asked how the wear looks and he said the pads had plenty of life but again they werent Honda and wouldn't "agree" with my Honda parts.

    I choose to have the tranny flush and fill, yes it was a three time fill and flush i asked. I also had the throttle cleaning done along with the four wheel alignment. He recommended a power steering flush and clean as well which I agreed too.. So in all I got

    Power Steering Flush and Fill
    Transmission Flush and Fill
    Four Wheel Alignment
    Throttle Body cleaning
    Oil Change
    And Some other 19PT inspection it said.

    All of that cost me $580, it sounded way high, but Honda Trannys need Honda Fluid so I was screwed. Is this high to anyone else? Also, do I really need to replace these motor mounts of are they BS-ing me? Thanks and Happy Motoring!! ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That may be high, but its not a whole lot different to the service I had done at 150,000 miles in my 1996 Accord 4-cylinder. It included a parking brake adjustment, oil and filter change, tire rotation/alignment, transmission flush and fill. It ran me $500 or so.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    So do I get those engine mounts replaced or just leave it. I havent noticed any of the symptoms that everything online says... engine vibration at highway speed etc. They want around 350 or so to do both mounts. The only thing I am worried about is whether or not leaving them as is will stress the transmission mounts or other vital drivetrain parts. Thanks for the help... HAPPY MOTORING :shades:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    "Power Steering Flush and Fill
    Transmission Flush and Fill
    Four Wheel Alignment
    Throttle Body cleaning
    Oil Change
    And Some other 19PT inspection it said.

    All of that cost me $580, "

    My Opinions:
    -Power steering probably never needs 'flushed' for the life of the car. The power unit or line will probably need replacing or leak
    before 'flushing' might be useful.
    -Transmission flush,if you don't know the history was ok. And, yes, this is one of the places you need to use Honda fluid, it seems to be somewhat unique. Should be good for 60,000 more miles now.
    -Was the car 'pulling' or tires wearing unevenly? If not, this could have been a waste of money.
    -Was there any 'check engine light'? Any 'sticking' of the throttle? And idle problems? If none, this was probably unneeded.
    -Oil (and filter?) change is ok of course. Did they use the specified oil? My local Honda dealer said they 'use 10W-30 for everything'. Asked what about the 5W-20 in the manual? Didn't have much to say. I change my own oil and filter.
    -19 Point inspection. If they charged you for this, it was a rip off. While they were under there changing the oil, I guarantee if they saw something that they think they could talk you into getting repaired, you would have heard about it.

    If your brake pads are ok, they are definitely trying to rip you off recommending you change to Honda pads. Any of you Honda people want to try to give a decent reason why this should be done, except to make money for the dealership?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Motor Mounts:

    Considering I feel the dealership was attempting to 'maximize' your expenditure on this car (replacing good pad because they were not Honda), what I would recommmend is taking the car to an independent shop. Try to ask around and see if there is one that people think is trustworthy and skilled (woooo, what to hope for!)

    Broken motor mounts should definite make some kind of noise you could hear, especially 2 of them. When dropping into gear from park/nuetral, (or releasing the clutch on a manual) should give you some unnatural noise or shudder. Strong acceleration and/or deceleration might also give noises you could hear. Open the hood and have someone drop the tranny into drive/reverse or let the clutch out while holding the brake securely. Did the motor appear to 'twist' more than it probably should? Did you hear a thump/noise?
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Bolivar,

    The tranny didnt shift smoothly from park into gear before the flush. Now it doesnt make a sound or rock the car like before, I didnt know the history that was why I had it done. As for the alignment that was the main reason I took it in. It was pulling pretty hard to the left, couldnt tell what it was because the dealer I bought it from had brand new tires put on it. The Honda Service advisor told me the Toe up front was "drastically off" it doesnt pull at all now that I can tell. No idle problems or check engine light was on. The throttle did feel stiff however, noticibly so since the two weeks I have had it. Much better now. The service advisor said the stiff pedal can be caused by motor mounts!? How can that be, but whatever they would know.

    MOUNTS: I have not noticed any vibrations at all while driving, it is silky smooth. Under the hood I turned the throttle and the engine did rock a little with reving but not drastically so, and the fan isnt rubbing. I would think it would with "BROKEN" mounts. The car was in park though, not gear. Mind you Honda stated that they were BROKEN not WORN. Didnt ask about the oil they put in, figured a Honda tech would know better. It says on my invoice HONDA SYNTHETIC BLEND/FILTER... thats it. Another question. I was told synthetic lasts longer than most normal oil like 7500 miles. The sticker on the window recommends I get it changed again in 3000 miles, I am starting to wonder if they used synthetic at all. HAHAHA thanks for the great feedback and happy motoring. :D
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Bolivar,

    If the mounts are bad and were causing the knock kind of sound when I shifted out of park with cold engine, could not replacing them cause any major drivetrain issues? Also I was wondering if I bought my own parts would an independent garage install them? :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The sticker on the window recommends I get it changed again in 3000 miles

    Eh, don't go by the sticker. My local dealership puts a sticker on my car which has a computerized maintenance minder to tell me when I need an oil change. :)
    With regular oil, you'd need a change at most every 3,750 miles according to the owner's manual, I think. 5,000 miles is usually a safe mileage to get it changed. And, I'm not sure, but I don't think "Honda Synthetic Blend" necessarily means synthetic oil (like MObil 1), but it might. I just don't know.

    With the motor mounts, get a buddy, wife, etc... to sit in the car with the engine running, while you stand to the side of the engine. With the car IN GEAR, have them hold their foot firmly on the brake and press the throttle. Don't floor it or anything, you're just trying to look for a movement of the engine, not trying to make it jump out :). If it moves any significant amount, you have a broken motor mount.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Spoke with an idependent mechanic that has been in town for years and years. Girlfriends dad recommended I call. I talked with the guy there over the phone and told him what Gwinnett Place Honda said about my motor mounts. I told him it was a V6 Coupe with 72K and immediately he said, "no." He said that if the mounts were bad I would definitely know it at highway speed with shimmy and shakes and stuff, especially with two of them gone. He told me that it sounds like were trying to pad my bill because the service advisors at GP Honda make money off commission on the service they sell. He told me he would put it up on the rack and check the mounts for free, but that he could tell better from driving it. He was pretty adament about them being full of it. He stated that he has several customers with the 98-02 V6 Accords and some have over 200k and he said he has NEVER had to replace any of their mounts. He stated they would only need replaced if the car was severly abused, which it wasn't, it was a honda certified. I think I was screwed... good thing I didnt get them
    replaced!!!! :mad:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The motor oil Honda sells is the "Mobil Clean 5,000", with a Honda label on it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Write this mechanic's name, address, and phone number down. He sounds like a winner.

    Girlfriends' dad also seems like a contender for a father-in-law.
  • rickytz7111rickytz7111 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1999 HOnda accord lx. The check engine light came on so I went to autozone to get it checked. The code says the catalyst system efficency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions (bank 1 identifies the location on cylinder #1 while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank. I took the code to a mechaic and he said that my cat was bad. That all the the stuff in the at had been blown out and the 1st o2 sensor was reading the same as the one behind the cat and the one behind the cat should read diffrent. That is why the check engine light came on. Autozone reset the check engine light and it stayed off for about 40 miles and came back on. I took it to advance where my friend works at and they ran the code again and he said that it was the same. He thinks the back 02 sensor is bad and not the cat. He said that the light should hae come back on realy quick after they reset it is why he doesn't think it;s the cat. Has anyone had this problem? Any advice would be deeply appreciated. Thanks
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    tell us what you discover after this guy puts the vehicle on the lift and gives it a drive.

    to be honest, even a honda cert. or any cert. vehicle for that matter can have issues. from what i've read here, cert. means only that you are paying for insurance. it doesn't necessarily mean it has been fine tooth combed by someone and everything repaired.

    if he's right, and if he can save you some serious coin, you want to frequent the guy with future repairs and pass his name along to others who might need a good mechanic. independants that you trust and are really good should benefit from your reference.

    don't do that openly in the forum though. GPH might hastle him. don't know about the assertion of making commission on services sold - but i suspect that might be more widespread than that one dealership / brand.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The O2 sensor would have to be tested to know for sure. Since the code stored was for the cat efficiency, and not for the sensor, testing or replacing the sensor, is the only way to know for sure. Good luck
  • dgrgedgrge Member Posts: 9
    The settlement was approved by the judge. The link for the website that has all the information is hondatransmissionsettlement.com. You can also type in your VIN to be sure you vehicle is covered.
  • breesleybreesley Member Posts: 1
    93 accord driving along the road when suddenly the car slows to a stop. The engine is still running but doesn't respond to accelerator. After turning engine off and re starting, idiot lights came on and no accelerator response.
    Car is 1200 miles away and I'm trying to help mom to keep from getting ripped-off. Any thoughts?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I've got no idea (not a great mechanic here), but I would suggest posting this in the board that is for the specific year for your mom's car. You'll find it here, the 1990-1993 Problems and Solutions Board. Good luck with your quest for answers!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Are you saying that the engine doesn't respond (engine doesn't rev up and down with the accelerator), or the engine responds, but the wheels don't? If the engine doesn't respond, you may just have a disconnected throttle cable.
  • djwest21djwest21 Member Posts: 2
    I have been told by the dealer my timing belt needs to be replaced @ 70,000 miles. I thought the V6 had a timing chain. If so how often should a belt or chain be replaced if the car is running fine.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Yes, the V6 has a timing belt. The 4cyl. has a chain. The owner's manual should have the mileage/time recommended interval for changing it. I would go by the normal conditions, unless your car is subjected to really severe conditions. After the interval for normal conditions, you are gambling with the life of your engine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I think every 90,000 is about right, but check your manual and do what it says. Your engine will run fine until the belt snaps; there will be no warning of its deterioration; one day, if not replaced, it will just break, wreaking havoc (and thousands of dollars of damage) in your engine. Get it done as you manual states (my 1996 Accord I-4 is at every 90k miles).
  • djwest21djwest21 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, That was very helpful.....
  • tmartinsmithtmartinsmith Member Posts: 1
    mine is black and i have the same problem with the paint
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    So I finally took the car to the mechanic I told ya'll about. He looked at it, drove it, and said that the front mount "moves a little bit" but nothing is knocking around so "dont drive it like a hot rod and this car will be with you awhile..." He said that even with the movement it isnt ready for new mounts. NOW, on another note. I took my girl to the north georgia mountains this weekend and on the way up and back I noticed that my car still pulls in the same direction as it did before the alignment. WHAT IS UP WITH THAT!?!?!?!?!? So regardless to say I am pretty cheesed. Im going to call GP Honda and let you guys know whats up. PEACE AND HAPPY MOTORING. ;)
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    I heard Honda has extended tranny warranty on some accords to 93 mos. or 109k miles. Does this warranty cover only specific malfunctions that Honda has acknowledged to or does it cover ANY tranny malfunctions, i.e slipping, hard shifts, unexpected or slow downshifts, etc.
    I have an appt. with the dealer to have my tranny checked due to slipping and I don't want to let them come up with the old "this problem isn't covered by the warranty" excuse.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    it's beautiful up there. this past weekend was a good time to go. some good hiking up there. watch out for the vehicles and motorcycles comming over the line! happens too often.

    was it pulling before you got up there? i mean, those aren't the roads to be assessing alignment issues on since they are really canted drastically away from the middle to put you away from oncomming traffic. better to do that on the interstate.

    let us know if GPH can figure your issue out or not.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    Took the Accord in this morning. Spoke with my same service tech and he took the car right in. I saw the tech drive away from the dealership in it so i know it was test driven. They said the car did have slight left pull. DUH!!! They suspected Radial tire pull. The crossed the front tires and guess what. It pulls slight right now. LOL. At any rate they say they are 100 percent sure that its a faulty tire that they can replace. But it isnt going to damage my vehicle to just wear that tire out, just annoy me with the pull. Maybe Ill get two new front tires anyway, doing my front brake pads on sat at the house. Thanks all for the input, HAPPY MOTORING :)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    are they new tires? i'm lost. if so, a replacement is a no brainer. if not, your sanity might be worth the $80 or what ever per tire for two new ones. specially if you do a lot of driving.

    pulling to the left can't be good. that would suggest a fairly serious problem as the road is purposely canted to the right for drainage.
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