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Comments
The switch module is lots cheaper than probably just one of the motors.
If Honda only sell the entire assembly, that's how they 'come'. Otherwise junkyard. And, have you looked at this assembly? It might be very tough to pull individual motors. The assembly might be welded together and individual motors would be tough to pull apart.
If you know the basic operation of a voltmeter and you can get to a connector to a motor you think is failed, you can check it. Pull a connector, put the voltmeter across the connections, and push the operating button. You should get 12Volts + or -. Push the button the other direction, and you should get 12volts in a reverse polarity (- or +). If you get the voltage, the switch is ok and you probably do have a motor problem. If no volts, you have a switch problem.
A thermostat is lots cheaper than a computer module. For a module, I sure would attempt to find one in a salvage rather than pay dealer price. Of course, some modules might have to be re-set a specific car, which maybe only a dealer or independent with eloborate 'code reader' could do.
i think bolivar has it right.
however, i personally wouldn't even entertain replacing the ECU module until both the thermostat and the temp sensor had been replaced. i'd do one at a time, and have an auto parts outlet read and reset the codes if necessary, specially if the dealership is charging you for it.
also on cold mornings, i suppose i would resist commanding warm air to the cabin until the vehicle had warmed up some. i'm not positive about this but i would think sending the coolant to a heat exchanger or the coils in the cabin just retards the warmup of the engine overall.
last but not least, per bolivar, if i went the ECU replacement route, and hopefully you wouldn't get this far, i'd be looking at a refurbished / reclaimed part. 1K is insane. but i'm thinking the ECU is good. if it were bad, i'd expect consistently odd behavior, not a 2 times in 4yr situation with one particular function.
HTH
let's see, if an automatic, probably a transmission flush, depending on the last time it was done. it was changed before right?
Yes, you're right the timing belt job will take care of the coolant.
i'm not sure they ever "flush" the power steering. I thought maybe they drain and replace. perhaps you could save yourself a few bucks and do it yourself.
dunno.
thegrad
Took it to a local dealer who read the codes, but said that since it didn't re-occur during his 20 min test drive his conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with it.
Is this a reasonable response from him? I'd thing that 2 failure codes against the transmission, plu smy description would clearly indicate something wrong, regardless of what happened during his test drive. I'm nervous about how this might fail (in traffic, making a left, etc). Curious what people think...
Not sure about the brakes, personally I never let the dealer touch the brakes. I once had a dealer tell me my truck needed $400 worth of brake work, a smaller shop did a $50 adjustment and said they were good to go. Drove it for 3 more years and never had a brake problem.
Even if there is 1/3 to 1/2 left, if you keep the car for another 104K, your going to need a brake hob before you get rid of it.
I would replace the pads so I would not have to think about it for another 104K
Mrbill
I won't let the dealer touch my brakes for sure. I have a friend with a workshop who can tell me if I need new brakes. Will post my findings.
The ECU
The catalytic converter
The onboard emission diagnostic device
You'd have to check your warranty supplement booklet to verify whether that's true in Canada if you're Canadian. Given the similarities in many air quality matters between the two nations I wouldn't be at all surprised - there is more or less free immigration between the U.S. and Canada and I doubt either country requires new arrivals from the other to purchase a new car when a change in official residence occurs. (with the notable exception of Soviet-era Lada commie-cars
Accords require service in 15K mile increments. The 30K, 60K, 90K etc services are more comprehensive. Sorry I don't have details on what's done; I've always called the service department at the dealership for this.
The tranny goes into gear without a problem... what I am finding though is that the car is very sluggish. If cold, it has a very hard shift to gear 2. If I come to a rolling stop it has a hard downshift sometimes too. Overall the car seems like it is not as peppy with this latest transmission, and you really feel the grade logic on this one. Like the engine and tranny aren't on speaking terms sometimes.
Overall, I think I should be able to back up out of my garage and have a smooth shifting car...even if the temp is in the 60's!!
Does this sound like another bad tranny? I am so sick of this car, but it is almost paid for and has only 60K. Advice?
Thanks.
Drain petcocks are almost always at the bottom corner (left or right) of the radiator. On the radiator bottom or just up the back side of the radiator. If are so 'unfamiliar with cars' that you cannot find the drain, maybe you should not attempt this. I worry that through your inexperience you could injure yourself - such as opening the cooling system, either the drain or the radiator cap while the car is still 'hot' and scalding yourself when the overheated coolant blows out....
thank you for your prompt response. The safety is not a problem, I am unfamiliar with cars but not stupid at all, and if I do something I am not an expert in (if I have whole information), usually I do it - to my surprise - much better of others, even professionals (ok, maybe just because of having spent 10 times longer on it). The problem is just to find that drain bolt. I saw that drain petcock at the bottom of the radiator you mentioned in your post, but my Manual says I should unscrew the drain bolt, too, which located I guess somewhere near the oil filter, but yet I failed to find it. My current idea is to try to pour out the coolant through that radiator's petcock if it is possible (we all know that it is very difficult to pour off a liquid from a can if we make the only one whole in it, right?). Thank you once again, I appreciate your concern. Leo
Your radiator does have a radiator cap. If you loosen this, and open the petcock, the coolant will come out! You can try to get the coolant out of the 'overflow' container also. May be able to remove this plastic jug and empty it.
Refill thru the radiator cap. Fill to the top. Add more to the overflow tank, up to the 'full cold' line. Replace the radiator cap. Drive the car, get temp up to operating temp, stop the car, let it cool off completely. It should suck coolant from the overflow container back into the radiator as the engine cools. Add more coolant to bring it up to the cold fill line. Check the coolant level a couple more times over the next few days driving the car, check when the engine is cold.
I seldom recommend buying 'manufactor' service items. But Hondas are somewhat different. Always buy Honda auto transmission fluid, nothing else is the same. When I needed to top off coolant in my Honda, I bought their coolant, even though it is about double the price of other 'extended life' coolant. I've read some posting that Honda does compound unique coolant for their alumium motors and radiators that is somewhat different from other over-the-counter brands.
Be careful with coolant, do not let animals drink it. It is 'tasty' to them and only about 1 or 2 oz will kill a large dog.
I've been told it decomposes easily in the sewer system and does not cause any pollution problems.
does the frequency of this noise go up and down as you press and release the gas or is it more or less constant?
My local dealer (which is usually very fair IMO) wanted well over $100 to change the light which lights up my PRND4D321 on my center console... lots of labor time involved there. Upon hearing the price, I suddenly was okay with just ryling on the instrument panel indicator!
And, I think you will only be able to find the bulb at Honda, which means it will be expensive. But it can be done yourself, saving the labor charge.