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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    If you have a coupe you'll need to remove the rear deck-lid to get at the bolts for the struts. I would imagine it's the same in the sedans, but since I don't have a sedan I'm not sure.

    As to a step-by-step I'm not your person, but this should help you at least find the bolts.
  • edhollowedhollow Posts: 8
    Hi Mr Snyder:
    Because of your intrepidness; I feel compelled to assist. The upper nuts on the bolts, are located behind your back seat. Hopefully, your backseat releases and drops down. Directly over the rear humps, behind the fabric, held in place by black "button" clips, you will see I believe at least two nuts. I used a 3/8's inch drive with I believe a 12 or 14 mm socket. After you release the strut, it should drop down, and you should be able to install the new one in reverse order. In addition, using a floor jack, under the lower assembly, should really help you, when aligning the bottom bolt, which secures the strut, to the lower suspension. Hope this helps! Ed...
  • finzzfinzz Posts: 40
    I have an '05 Honda Accord and need to replace the front brake pads. A few years ago, someone in here suggested a great place for OEM pads but, for the life of me, I can't recall the name of the shop

    Anyone have any thoughts as to a reputable place?

    Thank you
  • lbirunnerlbirunner Posts: 8
    I would recommend using after market high performance pads.
    I have ended up with warped OEM rotors and cracked pads too many times. I finally put my dollars towards after market rotors and pads. They are one of my best investments for my 04 Accord.
    BTW, I am pretty hard on my brakes.
    This is what I bought from the TireRack:
    1 Akebono pro-act ceramic pads In Stock $43.00 $43.00
    1 Akebono pro-act ceramic pads In Stock $55.00 $55.00
    1 Power slot rotor (ea) In Stock $84.00 $84.00
    1 Power slot rotor (ea) In Stock $84.00 $84.00

    I actually wanted to get Hawk pads but I don't they offered them at the time.
  • finzzfinzz Posts: 40
    Thank you lbirunner
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have always used oem pads on my Accords. I never had to have the rotors machined or replaced, and they are completely silent (most important to me). All I do is change the pads, and I'm ready for another 50k miles or so. Even though I do a lot of stop and go driving, I guess I'm easy on brakes.
  • edhollowedhollow Posts: 8
    Hi finzz:
    Message #5284 suggestion of Akebono Ceramic pads is a great idea, especially since Akebono makes Honda's OEM brake pads. However, if you have a problem finding them, NAPA makes Adative One hybrid-ceramic pad, which is also excellent!! I really feel the difference, and in chorus with the high-performance drilled and slotted rotors--makes a formidable combination. Prevents warping becuz it keeps your rotors 150-200 degrees cooler; especially, if you live in a hotter climate like the Southwestern US. :)
  • nycarguy1nycarguy1 Posts: 8
    hi - this very same issue occurred to me a while back. not sure what happened, but i was very lucky as my car had about one month left in warranty...and they replaced it free of charge. i recall the unit they ordered cost around $100 (and you would have to add labor i suspect). took less than an hour to install. good luck - the broken door was very annoying !!!
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello all -

    I recently noticed that the keyhole on my driver's side door is marching further and further back in to my door making it hard to put a key in the door (I only use the keyhole when I'm trying to roll up the window after having forgotten in the car). It looks like the trim around the door handle pops off, but I don't want to risk it.

    Has anybody had this problem and how should I fix it?

    thanks.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    edited June 2010
    I'm replying to the last post I made back in Dec 29, 2009 regarding my wife's 2007 Accord i4 coupe. At the time, it was at 26807 miles. I was discussing the maintenance I had done at 24784 miles back in 11/11/2009. It's almost 6 months later since that maintenance and almost 8k miles. The maintenance minder wants me to bring in my car again, I'm actually -777 miles right now, haven't had a chance to take care of it yet. It's saying Type A and when I look over on http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/Maintenance/ , it's confusing me. I liked the maintenance schedule of my 2004 Accord.

    With the car being at 30k, seems I should deal w/ the major service items. I looked over on http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html , and seems I should make sure to have taken care of:

    Air filter
    Cabin air filter
    Engine oil & Filter

    And then inspections on:
    Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect Brakes
    Inspect Drive belt(s)
    Inspect boots & seals Drive shaft
    Inspect Exhaust system
    Inspect Fluid levels
    Inspect Fuel lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect/adjust Parking brake
    Inspect Suspension
    Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots
    Rotate/adjust air pressure Wheels & tires

    Looking at older maintenance, at 20k edmunds says to have the "Inspect Steering gear rack, linkage & boots" which seems pretty close to the "Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots" I listed right above. Not sure if that was checked out on my last visit.

    I'm planning on just leaving the car at the dealer w/ a $35 coupon for oil change, multi-point inspection. which includes either an alignment check or a tire rotation (can't remember which) and I think a battery check too. Hopefully that'll cover all these things to inspect.

    I bought the air filter and am planning on doing it on my own. Still haven't gotten the cabin air filter yet. When I visited the dealer near my work, they wouldn't match the price of www.handa-accessories.com/ but the air filter was cheaper or very close in price anyways. However the cabin air filter/pollen filter was significantly more. I'm going to try one more time to visit the dealer near my home and see if they'll match the price to www.handa-accessories.com/ and stock up on some cabin air filters. Or just order from handa.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    If you are planning on having the dealer take care of "inspection" items, they usually do a pretty good job. IMHO, there is no major thing to worry about with most of them. Their "multi-point inspection" should be enough.

    Changing the oil and both filters you mentioned is necessary. You may also want to do a search about brake and transmission fluids. There are different opinions around here on how often those should be performed.

    I'm guessing that your coupon is for tire rotation. I prefer that they measure the tread depth on the front and rears and rotate them only when necessary.

    If the Maintenance Minder bothers you, there is nothing wrong with following the old recommendations based purely on mileage. Many Honda dealers want you to follow their own schedules but that includes a lot of unnecessary things, IMHO. I suggest that you use the MM or another mileage-based schedule and stick to it.
  • voicemailkingvoicemailking Posts: 83
    edited June 2010
    we have a 2005 EXL 6 cylinder. We have had the same problem twice, the TCS with ! comes on the right side of dash, on left side shows an outline of an engine, when it happened the car started to slow and chug and almost stopped. we pulled over and shut down for 30 seconds then restarted and TCS went off but engine outline stayed on for awhile longer. Car seems to hesitate as mechanic could not find the problem (same mechanic for 9 years), happened again yesterday on turnpike, when it was hesitating lights came on, pulled over and shut down, re-start adn it is ok, bus t does not feel right and even have been usung high test gas to see if car would ruun better, anyone have nay thoughts?
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 34,088
    if the light was triggered, it should have also set trouble codes in the ECU. So, you need to have the diagnostic system scanned to see what area was causing the problem.

    Could be any number of things causing the problem, but the codes will at least point to the correct area to look at.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Could just be a wheel (speed) sensor activating the TCS. Get the codes read, and that will narrow the possibilities.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello -

    It's been a while since I've posted and now I have another small problem. It appears that my passenger side window motor is dying. The other day I rolled the window down through the key fob and then when I started the engine the window rolled up as if it had the auto up feature (my car is a 2003 LX and doesn't have this feature) and then I was driving down the road and it refused to go down. A little later I was driving after having gotten the window down and it wouldn't go back up. So I shut the radio off and attempted to roll down with the master switch and I could hear something trying to engage (and no the lock-out switch wasn't engaged), but nothing was happening. At one point I dropped the car in neutral (I was going slow so as not to damage anything) and dropped it back in drive and the window starting working again. I highly doubt they're related. Does anybody have any ideas?

    Also, sometimes the windows will work after shutting the car down and restarting. How much might I expect to pay if I took it somewhere? I'm not mechanically inclined and even if I was I have no space to work where I live.

    Thanks,
    Tankbeans (aka Tristan)

    2003 Accord LX Coupe 76,300 miles.
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Posts: 53
    The same thing happened to me with my Accord several years ago. Turned out to be a bad battery. Lots of lights came on - the TCS was the first light to appear, then the brake light, then the engine light. After a few minutes it looked like a Christmas tree on my dashboard! Then the engine slowed and stopped. It barely restarted. After I got home, the car refused to start. The alternator was 100% and terminal connections were good; just a bad battery after three years of service.

    Good luck!
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I have an '05 Accord EX-L 4 cylinder. My battery had to be jumped. Afterward, the engine light came on which, according to the manual, is normal. It says that the codes will reset after three days of driving. That has not happened after five. I am thinking that I may have to go to the dealer to have them reset. According to the manual, if this continues and you have a problem with your emissions system, you can damage your engine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'd take the car to an auto-parts chain. Places like AutoZone will read the check-engine light code for free. A dealer is likely to charge you in excess of $50 to do that.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited June 2010
    tankbeans,
    When the window does work, does it go up at normal speed, or does it seem like it's straining? If the window moves normally, I suspect the switch, if the motor drags I suspect the motor or the regulator (the regulator and motor are sold together I believe). Majestic Honda prices are $118.26 for the motor/regulator, and $131.23 for the driver's master switch (dealer prices are about $50 more). The labor cost would probably be more for the window motor/regulator than the switch (more work to change). Good luck getting it fixed.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Elroy

    Thank you for your response. I just got back home from work and checked out the performance of the window on the way home. I had opened via the key fob and it went back up upon starting the engine. That being said the window appears to go back up as normal (when it works). Is this something that is easy enough for a person who isn't mechanically inclined to do or would I be better served taking it in?

    Thank you,
    Tristan
  • Before you spend a lot on a switch or a motor, try greasing the window track. It my just be increased resistance.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 34,088
    the door switch is usually a quick in and out with a screwdriver.

    The regulator is a much bigger deal, since you have to dismantle the door, and getting everything line up and back together again can be tricky.

    personally, I would do the switch but have no interest in opening up the door panel. But, YMMV.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello all -

    Thank you for your replies. When the window works it goes down just as easily as before, but when it doesn't work it doesn't go down (or up depending on starting position), also if the window is down before I start the car it will then go back up. To sum up everybody's responses this is the regulator? The switch seems okay, but what do I know? (That is why I'm asking here)

    You guys are always a big help. Thank you for your continuing help everybody. Also since this sounds like a P.I.T.A. I might take it to the dealer. I just wanted to get a vague idea what it should cost beforehand so they can't upsell a lot of other crap. :blush:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You would have to take the door panel off, then when the window doesn't work, check for power to the motor. If the motor is getting power, it's either the motor or the window glass getting jammed in the run channel. If the motor is not getting power, you have to work your way back to the switches and wiring. Good luck
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Thank you for your continued help. I will be working on this tomorrow as long as the weather is okay and let you know what I find.

    Thank you for your continued help.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Thanks for the reply tallman1. I'll probably do a mix of using the maintenance minder and a mileage based system. But from your reply, seems I'm on the right path on what should be done. I'll take a look around for brake fluid and transmission fluid info for her car
  • fltoppfltopp Posts: 2
    I hope someone can help. My wifes car worked fine yesterday when we parked it after coming home from dinner. This morning the wife went to start it and it wont start. The starter sounds fine and the battery is charged fine, but the car wont start. Anyone have suggestions? possibly fuel pump issues? maybe a clogged fuel filter? I even used jumper cables to see if the battery was somehow low, but sounded the same. Someone please help!!!!!
  • pgrunnerpgrunner Posts: 25
    Don't know if this will apply to you but check these possible causes (my brother's Accord had the relay issue):

    http://techauto.awardspace.com/
  • fltoppfltopp Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info pgrunner. Ill start there.
  • numb3rznumb3rz Posts: 15
    edited June 2010
    Is Honda ATF fluid really superior to over the counter brands? Owners manual recommends their oil, don't they all. Planning on doing my own transmission service. I understand it's a simple drain and fill operation. Dealer quoted me $100.... for three quarts?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would recommend using Honda ATF. The cost depends on if they were going to do a "flush" or just a "change". A change would be only 3 quarts, but a flush would be 9 or 12 quarts, which at $7 or $8 per quart gets pricey. To me, how many times you do a drain and fill, depends on how dirty the fluid is before and after each one. Personally, I change out 3 quarts every 15k miles, so hopefully I will never need to do a flush. Of course, if you are paying someone else to change it, every 15k miles, that could get expensive too. Do it yourself, and save $$$.
  • edhollowedhollow Posts: 8
    In response to numb3rz, yes, Honda ATF is far superior 2 others; and not just becuz the manual says so. I have a buddy who uses it on his Chevrolet Colorado p/u and gets smoother, fluid, shifts for his A/T. Yes, Honda's ATF can be bought 4 $5.50 to $8.00/qt.; 15,000 miles a change is "cheap" insurance when you consider the consequences of a worn-out or neglected transmission.
    You understand correctly about "drain and fill"--it's that simple. Look for a square opening on the side of the transmission case, 3/8's inch drive to be exact. I use a 3/8's inch breaker bar--and voila, the bolt or screw breaks loose, and out comes your red A/T fluid, approx. 2 1/2 to 4 qts; depending on the size transmission. Clean-up, re-tighten the "plug" slightly more than "finger tight" (becuz the case is aluminum alloy, and don't want to gall or strip-it! Use a long tipped funnel, and refill, after having previously measured the drained fluid. Sneak-up on the level, by checking with your dipstick. Don't overfill. You're done! Yep, it's that simple. Then you can tell me if you feel the difference?! :)
  • cabriggscabriggs Posts: 32
    I have an '05 Accord EX-V6 and I had it in for 90k maintenance today. They told me the catalytic converter shields are disintegrating. They quoted $200 for parts and hardware to replace.

    A few questions.
    1. How urgently should I treat this?
    2. Is $200 plus labor reasonable?
    3. Is this easy? How hard would it be to do it myself?

    Thanks for any info.

    They also said it's due for a new timing belt. I checked the manual and it says to replace it at 7 yrs/105k miles. I have no problem doing it then. Is there any reason they'd suggest it now?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The timing belt can definitely wait until the 105k mark. The shields for the converter are known to rust out on the corners, and start rattling. I'm sure a reasonably handy man could change the shields himself, which is what I would do. I don't know how much the shields would cost, but you can count on needing new bolts for them too. You would have to figure out exactly which shields you need. Here's a link showing the parts and prices.
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=4DR+EX+%28V6%29&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=EXHA- UST+PIPE+%28V6%29
  • cabriggscabriggs Posts: 32
    That's a great page, thanks! The picture is very helpful. If I'm reading it correctly, the shields and bolts will run me about $20 plus shipping. I know dealers mark up, but I don't see how they quote $200 plus labor, unless they're replacing more than that and simplifying it for me. They couldn't have have planning on replacing the catalytic converter though because it costs more by itself.

    I've been hearing a rattling like you suggest, so I asked them to try to identify it. They said it was caused by the shields and the brakes (I've replaced the pads and rotors and the dealer repeatedly referred to them as "aftermarket"--yes, they are, get over it). I'll have to look under my car to see exactly what's loose or rusting before I order. Thanks again.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    $200 sure does sound like a lot, for just the converter shields. The bolts can be difficult to remove. Make sure the car is supported with jack stands, before you get under it. Use something like a rubber hammer, or just a piece of wood to tap along the exhaust, to possibly reveal where the rattles are coming from.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited July 2010
    Here is something that worked for me with loose heat shields on a converter. The shields didn't have any mounting tabs left. I used 2 hose clamps wrapped them around the shields and tightened them up. They were on the vehicle for 5+ years, until I sold the car. Here is an example of the clamps, you may need to link two together to make long enough.

    http://www.amazon.com/Duct-Hose-Clamp-drive-Kitchen/dp/B0002IGCJI

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    That sounds like a good idea, and should be easier than changing the shields. If you do go the clamp route, those screws are much easier to tighten with a nut/socket driver, than a screw driver. Thanks for the idea mrbill, I will try to remember it for when my converter shields start rattling.
  • cabriggscabriggs Posts: 32
    That is a good idea, and thank you for the rubber hammer idea. Time permitting, I'll get it on jack stands this weekends and see for myself what's really loose.

    Thanks again guys.
  • inspectoringinspectoring Posts: 102
    Hi - I have a 2003 honda accord. Yesterday morning while sitting in the heat - the fan all of a sudden stopped blowing cold air. I turned the AC on and OFF but nothing changes. Turn on the heater but no air. The fan setting is full and I changed the direction of the air from the face to feet to feet +body but no help.

    I do feel a change in the way the engine runs when I turn the AC on ( I guess that is the compressor) but still no air.

    Can you please tell me what I am looking at ? I took the car to the dealer but he was scratching his head :(
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 34,088
    maybe find a service department with a clue?

    If I am understanding correctly, you get no cabin air. So, something went in the fan system. Obvoiusly check the fuses, and the next likely culprit seems to be the fan motor itself. And any relays in the system. And the switch itself.

    should not be that confusing for a technician to go through the steps tracing the system along to find the problem. Potentially time consuming and expensive, but relatively straightforward.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • steve1steve1 Posts: 8
    I have a 2003 Accord sedan that makes a rattling/clacking sound anytime I start the car. The car has had all of the required maintenance done on it by the same Honda dealership since I bought it and the last time it was in for service they said it was in great shape.

    The sounds seems to be coming from the engine compartment (towards the front) and not underneath the car in the center. Any ideas what this might be? The rattle/clack happens right when the engine first turns over and that's the only time I ever hear it. Maybe a heat shield that's coming loose? The car runs flawlessly other than this rattle and it has only 68,000 miles on it.
  • buyahomebuyahome Posts: 26
    Today I had the covers replaced on my catalytic converter. I was hearing the same noise. Rattling just when I started the engine. I thought it was the covers or the starter. I had the top and bottom covers replaced by the dealership. The parts were about $60 total and the labor ran just about an hour (less). Not bad and it is so quiet now when I start it. Get it done. You'll be glad you did.
  • steve1steve1 Posts: 8
    Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, a friend of mine also said it might be the catalytic converter covers. Hopefully, it's that or a heat shield and nothing more serious (like an engine rod). I'll be stopping by the dealership later this week to have them take a look. Thanks again for the info!
  • I have a 2005 V6 Accord that I don't drive very much, rarely in bad weather. I want some inexpensive tires, the most important factor is quiet - it's a noisy car, and I want it to ride quieter and smoother.
    Any suggestions?
  • mbusuttilmbusuttil Posts: 11
    Michelin or Yokohama are suitable for the accord...and the michelin are very soft compound,more smoother. :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Firestone FE380 or Goodyear Integrity tires are reasonably priced tires that are more "touring" based, not made for sporty handling. My family has had good luck with Cooper tires as well. Michelin tires are very expensive, as a general rule.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited July 2010
    Many of the reviews on Kumho tires have been positive as a replacement for an Accord at a far less cost then other tires. Take a look on Tirerack.com and research Kumho on the Accord.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    FR380, not FE380. My bad.
  • hondahenryhondahenry Posts: 35
    My car needs new tires after 40k miles. For those folks who have done this, which shop do you go, the dealer or other tire shops? What brand of is good and modestly priced? Thanks a bunch.
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