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Comments
You've got to be kidding. You must live in the land of OZ. Because only the Wizard himself, could get you that warranty. Are you a munchkin?
That would be THE LEAST they could do! If nothing is wrong with the car then they won't lose money right?
If you are a frequent customer at their service department, you have already paid for the repair. What dealerships charge for routine maintenance is ridiculous, when you read the maintenance schedule, and see what they actually did, for the money.
I agree in the case of many dealers, especially the imports here in this part of the country. They intimidate most owners. But I suspect DjM2 is present enough that the service managers do the right things and don't try the pimp my bill routine. There are service departments that are good. That's why I kept going back to the same dealer when I bought new cars.
A knowledgeable customer and friendly service manager can work well together. But the customer has to know about the car and about the recommendations. Otherwise they can get taken. A prime example is on oil change intervals. I don't want to start a discussion on it but the frequent oil change can spend a lot of money at the dealer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My dealer charges about $23.00 for an oil and filter change, (with tax). I don't maintain the vehicle by the book. I have my own system of routine maintenance. For example, I believe in changing the trans fluid at least once a year. Depending on my driving, for a given period of time, I might drain this fluid twice during a given year. I have the engine coolant changed every two years. The four wheels are removed from the vehicle, and the brakes are cleaned and inspected twice a year, (in the Fall and Spring). If service is necessary it is done at this time. I do not want to have brake problems in the Winter or Summer, when I need to depend on my vehicle. Once a year,(in the Spring), I have a four wheel alignment done on the vehicle. ----- This works for me! ---- Best regards. Dwayne
It was cooling to 48 degrees at the vents. They checked the system & the refrigerant was down 2 tenths of a kilogram (the system holds one kilogram). They topped it off, and it now cools to 44 degrees (this is on an 80 degree F day).
It's hot & humid today, and I just ran some errands at lunch and it does seem to be cooling better now. I'm glad I took it it, and glad they topped off the refrigerant even though it was down just a little.
Dave
Dave
Do you have "Auto" climate controls or manual? If auto, maybe something was a little out of sync, just guessing.
Mrbill
And to top it off:
About 2 weeks ago I had to return to work after 2 hours of getting off. So, instead of driving home 30 miles in the pouring rain and then driving back 1 hour later 30 miles I take a nap in the Accord. I reclined the front driver seat and put my hands on the back of my head. While asleep I feel a drop of water. Felt 2 drops within the 70 minutes I slept. All coming from the rear driver window area.
Anyone else with similar problems?
I looked at the door seals and they look fine. Maybe the door needs to be aligned?
Also, the large pocket below the radio does not open 100% of the time when you push on the "push" label of the pocket.
I'll be taking it into the dealer for repair.
Car: 2006 Accord LX sedan automatic (4,4?? miles)
PS: If anyone is wondering where they can get a factory service manual for their car (same one the dealer techs use), you can get them directly from Helm. Link below.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=&class%5F2=AHM&mscsid- =J176309T1V269H8WQNKBMU255V8GABED
..dealer?
..AutoZone?
..Kragen
..good DIY on driveaccord.com
(dealer gets close to $60 parts and labor to install.....)
ez
http://www.handaaccessories.com/accmaint03.html
I don't know anything about the other issues with metallic tint.
10,000 miles for "Normal"
This is for 2005 Accord I-4 Oil and Filter Change, per the manual (checked my dad's 2005 EX today just for you, to make sure).
Furthermore, we haven't noticed any decrease in range for the remote keyless entry.
Does anyone have the same problem ? Can i go to dealer(s) in pittsburgh for this problem. Will they charge me for any repair work..any above all, does this problem have a solution?
are you merely trying to get more people with similar experience before you go in? why would the dealer charge you for a vehicle under warranty?
after using the search this discussion (where you will find some hits), why not try google the issue as well?
There's another problem with the motor minder system. I've discovered that all the services are attatched to the oil change intervals. Therefore, if you change the oil every 3000 - 4000 miles and reset the minder system, all the calculations are off. I'll be at a meeting with the Honda Service Mgr tomorrow night, so I'll try to question him on this, and all the talk I'm hearing (seeing on this forum) about the brakes prematurely wearing out. Wonder if I'll get a straight answer???
Any ideas on how to keep this from happening?
This model is out since last year now and i have not found any specific complains about this..so was bit apprehensive about it..
now the accelerator / throttle body linkage is electronic (some call it drive by wire). there is no cable linkage between the accelerator and the valve at the top of the engine that admits more air when you press the pedal further.
perhaps your accelerator pedal has a spring which is getting stiff (? generally springs exercised over time get looser) or other pedal / sensor linkage is binding. maybe your foot position on the pedal (a function of how far your seat is from the dash and the length of your legs) has changed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But....all the other reccomended services are attatched to the oil changes. Example: an oil change is service "A".
Service "B" is a more through service including "checking" brakes, exhaust, suspension, etc etc etc.
Your motor minder will come up with either an "A" or a "B". Then there are "sub" catagories #1 thru #5.
#1 is a tire rotation, that's all.
#2 is replacing the air filter and inspecting the drive belts
(the rest are all listed in your owners manual.)
So, if you get an "A" AND a #1, it's time for an oil change and tire rotation.
Still with me???
Here's why I hate it....
Each time you change the oil, the system is reset back to 100% oil life. OK, that's fine.
BUT...if you change your oil prior to the system coming up and telling you to do so, and reset the meter, you will NEVER SEE THE OTHER SERVICES THAT ARE DUE!
I have 12,000 on my 06, and have NEVER SEEN ANY MESAGES, because I change my oil every 3000 - 4000 miles. I definately should have seen the tire rotation code by now. But, each time my system was reset after an oil change, I lost the possibility of getting any other codes (1,2,3,4,5)
So, the bottom line is this: you either trust the system 100%, or have NOTHING to go on. I asked my dealer for a mileage chart to go by instead of the "motor minder", and they said their isn't one. I could go by the 05 mileage chart, but I have to buy an owners manual to get it (dealer says they don't have anything in print that I can even copy!)
I'm planning on talking to Honda about this, because I just don't like it. I think they should give us an alternative to the "motor minder" syatem. Some of us are old school.
If I get anywhere with Honda, I'll post it here.
Hope this helps and that I didn't confuse you too much.
you could, by the way, get a maintenance schedule for an '05 on the Owner's Link through the Honda website.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That's what I was about to say. And it won't cost you anything. You can just print out the 05 schedule, and use that. Simple solution.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
i'd be suspicious of letting regular oil go 7-10K myself. i'm always checking my oil every 3rd fill or so. hard to see the quality breakdown for a 5W-20 by sight, guess there are people that could. color does have something to do with it, but suppose that could be influenced by burning gases.
the thing i was always taught was the filter is the most important thing to change, moreso than the oil itself... hey i'm not sure i believe it completely but could be convinced.
i think people waiting 10K intervals are asking for potential issues. 3K seems a tad often to me (unnecessary but couldn't hurt providing crush washer is new and filter is new). 4-7K? Seems good. 10K Seems awfully long for a non-synthetic.
By the way, there isn't a downloadable owners manual on Owners Link. You can order one there, but no downloads. That would have been too easy.
About 2 weeks ago I started noticing that during hot rainy days when I would put on the windscreen defogger on the drive side window next to the outside mirrow would fog up.
Now I can't see jackshit with the fogging. And this only seems to happen when I put the windscreen defogger on. If the AC is off this never happens.
I will be taking the car to the dealership next week but has anybody else noticed this problem or has any comments?
Would appreciate any feedback.
PT.
It has happened to me, its because the drivers A/C vent is directed to the left and the glass is getting cold. The humid air outside then condenses on the cold glass.
Mrbill
Will check it out. But I believe the vents on the side (both the passenger and the driver side) are directed towards the left, that means the window only. And they are probably fixed.
I believe the fogging is on the outside of the window because I tried removing it with my hand but it didn't go away.
PT.