Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

hondalova

I have a 2004 V-6 6 spd. manual trans. Accord Coupe. Recently my check engine light keeps coming on (steady, not blinking). Sometime, after enough key-cycles and mileage it will go out for a while but it always comes back on.

It seems to happen at start-up most often - the car will idle a little bit roughly, misfire, and light-up the idiot light on the dashboard. I've also noticed some hesitation lately. The car has always bogged down a bit if you put your foot in it too quickly, but has done so since it was new and I've always attributed it (perhaps incorrectly?) to either the electronic throttle or the traction control nanny. Of course, I could be wrong (wouldn't be the 1st time).

Mechanic says the car has stored misfire codes for all six cylinders (P301 through and including P306) as well as "lean bank" codes for both banks each of the times I've brought it in. It has NOT stored an Oxygen sensor code or anything else. He cleaned the EGR valve and ran a solvent through the tubes/runners that the gases flow past the EGR valve in but Mr. Idiot Light is back again. We're now going to replace the EGR valve on the theory that it may be sticking at start-up, but I'm not convinced this will work.

Anybody seen a TSB on this issue or have any other ideas about what could cause all six cylinders to store misfire codes and double lean-bank codes without an O-2 code? The only other thought I had was a fuel pump but, I'm an amateur and this problem has progressed way beyond my skill level at this point. I like my mechanic, but I'm gettin' sick of seein' him so much.

Thanks! :sick:

stickguy

might be time to spend a few extra $$ up front and go to a dealer for at least a diagnostic. They can usually do more than a private mechanic (with the computers and stuff).

accord6mt

Would a bad tank of gas, or small amounts of water in your gas tank cause this problem?

Just thinking out loud... best of luck!

ar39

I suspect defective/worn-out spark plug/s. It may be a result of an improper timing sequence which leads to the timing belt. Another reason could be the worn-out brush/bush of the alternator; in this case you should observe dimming of headlights.

hondalova

Thanks guys - but I've ruled out bad gas (problem started three weeks, 1500 miles, 60 gallons of gas, ago). Nor is it plugs (pulled two, one from each bank, both of which looked 100% okey dokey). Thes are high mileage plug-life plugs and I believe it nearly impossible that all six plugs could foul enough to suddenly code all at once. Oh, and the headlights are not dimming at all.

Nor is the dealer any panacea. My mechanic called his friend - a master-tech over at the dealership where I bought the car - for an opinion and when he described the problem the tech said "hey man, we're changin' O2 sensors for that - we do a ton of 'em." I should add that, when the car was new, one of the uptake 02 sensors was replaced under warranty so, at least one of 'em has already been changed.

I'm still not convinced its not the fuel pump - can anybody dissuade me from that point of view?

Thanks!
-FS

prayerball

We have an 04 accord lx and recently noticed that when the cooling fan turns on with the a/c on, there is sort of a brief clunking sound, then the fan engages. the car seems to be operating perfectly normal otherwise. has anyone else noticed this? the dealership said this was normal, but for some reason i didn't notice this sound before. thanks for your help.

user777

clogged EGR valve or perhaps an issue with a coil would be my inclination.

thegraduate

My 2006 EX with 7800 miles has done this since day 1. Don't worry about it.

accord6mt

Just shooting in the dark, but a new Saturn I owned in 97 starting having a very rough idle and did not accelerate smoothly - turns out the altimeter in the Saturn (didn't know cars had one) was defective and wasn't feeding the engine enough oxygen. Once they replaced the altimeter, the car ran perfectly.

Another shot in the dark, my 98 Corolla starting having acceleration and cruising issues, with abrupt acceleration and cruising was impossible without having to constantly move the gas pedal up & down. After a few weeks of this problem the engine light starting coming on. Took the car in and they discovered a bad pedal position sensor (PPS) in the car. Once they replaced the PPS, everything was groovy.

mstef

I have a 2005 Honda Accord V6 with about 22000 miles on it. The air conditioning suddenly stopped working, so I took it to the dealership this morning fully expecting it to be covered by warranty. Wrong! They told me it was caused by a rock hitting the compressor, so its not covered under the warranty They charged me $608.00 for a new compressor and needing the air, I decided to go ahead with the repair. Anyone else have this issue? If nothing else, sounds like a design flaw that the compressor is not protected from kicked up rocks.

mrbill1957

Compressor? Do you mean condensor?

I've seen complaints before with rocks puting holes in the condensor.

When I got my 04 Accord, I placed some screening (3/8" hardware cloth) behind the bumper. I sprayed the screening black before installing, and unless you get down low and close to the bumper, you can't see it.

Mrbill

mstef

Yes, I meant the condensor. Thanks for the tip. Sounds like something Honda should have thought of.

djm2

I would submit that bill to your auto insurance. Honda is basically saying that this issue is the result of an accident,(with a flying rock). If that is true, then the collision portion of your auto insurance should cover the cost of the A/C repair. If your insurance carrier turns down the claim,(as unjustified), then I would take Honda Corp to small claims court, because the problem is the result of a product design flaw,(something not under the control of the operator of the vehicle.) Your auto insurance by turning down your claim,is helping you to prove your case!--------Best regards. ----Dwayne

todao

My 03 EX V6 tranny went at 45K. The dealer held it for three days and told me Honda would not fix it. I called Honda and it turns out there is a National Safety Recall for the 03 and 04 V6 EX automatic transmission. I got on my dealers case and sure enough, Honda is picking up the full cost of the replacement. Evidently that fixes it.

But my dealer didn't do a thing for me until I contacted American honda and opened a case number. Geez!

This is a known problem. Contact American Honda even if your dealer is on the ball. If they are not, complain! and make yourself known. Honda will fix it cuz it's a known issue. My dealer said they've done LOTS of these trannies on these cars.

But I have to say, my dealer really messed it up.

djm2

mstef:
Let's revisit this topic for a moment! Suppose your Accord, had a design flaw that allowed normal rain water, (not flooding), to seep into an ignition component in the engine compartment, causing it to fail. Would Honda be responsible for the repair, and the correction of the design flaw? ----or ---- Suppose your Accord's air intake system, had a design flaw that allowed dirt to enter the engine, thus causing extensive damage, would Honda be responsible for the repair? The answer to both questions is "YES"! The A/C component problem is the result of a design flaw that allows road gravel, "kicked up by trucks" to enter the grill area, and damage A/C components. YOU, as the owner of the vehicle, did not design the grill area, nor did you alter the grill area. You simply drive the vehicle, on the paved roads of the United States! This is a "Honda Design," and the problem exists because of that design! Simply put, Honda is responsible for the repair, and also for the correction of the problem, if they want to eliminate future repairs to that component. ----- Best regards. ---- Dwayne

user777

i am not sure i would file this with my auto insurance. i believe that sometimes even making an inquiry to your insurer, as to if something that actually happened to you will be covered if it were submitted - this may end up having one's premium increase or worse, depending upon your claim history, being dropped.

whitecloud1

First, that may be covered under the Comprehensive part of
the policy. I doubt that a simple query would prompt a rate increase. Even if it did, that's why you buy insurance. They will up rates periodically, usually as a group anyway. In my case $600 buys 6 months on my policy.

mrbill1957

(just my opinion) I would doubt that Honda will pick up the cost on this.

After seeing the complaint here a year ago about the same thing happening to their car, I did the modification to my car. I also have been more aware of what other cars have in the front end for condenser protection. For what I've seen, the Accord isn't any better or worse then the majority of other cars on the road.

If a stone hits your headlamp and breaks it, is Honda liable since they didn't use a plastic that is more resistant to stones? If your last car was a Saturn, and now with your Accord you have two large door dings, would you feel that Honda should be liable since they don't use dent resistant door skins? The same argument can be used with just about any damage.

Your always at risk for a hole in the condenser from a rock, a nail in a tire, a stone chip in the windshield or numerous other damages that can happen to a car.

I would also be concerned with submitting a claim to your insurance agent. If you did, and a short time later you were in an accident, two claims in a row could put you at risk of a huge increase in insurance cost, or worse, cancellation.

Mrbill

thegraduate

What you said.

I was going to say something similar, like when my blinker on my 1996 got busted by a rock (the rock was even still sitting IN the blinker when it got hit), I got incredibly lucky and only had to pay for the part (the blinker housing), and the service manager installed it himself. I would expect to have to pay for any rock damage though. It's like hitting a pothole and ruining a wheel. It isn't the wheel's fault, meaning it's not Honda's problem. Same goes true for windshields, paint, etc...

You can try an inquiry with Honda, but I doubt you'd get far with getting reimbursed.

qbrozen

Good post. Exactly my thoughts.

Honda is not the only car on the road this can happen to. We did have this very thing happen on our Pilot, and I installed a mesh screen afterwards to keep it from happening again. Its simply bad luck and life with a car. I've read of identical occurences on other makes and models, as well.

user777

trust me, i understand your point. another poster subsequent to my post re: multiple claims in a given unit of time resulting in upped rates or being dropped.

it has happened to people i know, even myself. it's wrong but it happens.

my advice, if the cost of the repair is consistent (i'm not saying identical, could be several hundreds apart 3, 4 or $500 between deductable and cost of repair) - i would seriously consider NOT reporting it.

it seems silly and counter to the argument "but that is why you buy insurance". i know this.

YMMV.

alboston

Extremely poor Honda quality and service. Brand new Honda Accord 2006, EX V-6 7 mths. - already passenger side seat mechanism broken (an occasional passenger 125 lb.), both rear wheel rotors and wells completely rusted despite everyday commute. Rear wheel rusting is a known Honda design flaw that Honda USA refuses to acknowledge and warranty service. They claim it just looks abnormal, but that's it, folks. This repair will cost you eventually thousands of dollars because parts were not properly galvanized. Honda USA claimed that wheel rotors and wells are not part of a vehicle warranty. So, let us do a subpar quality car and fix it yourself later. The Honda service around Boston is awful, mechanics leave grease on leather seats, do not top liquids, do not reset oil life meter. I have all the documents and pics related. It's fact based. Look for Toyota. My Toyotas never had problems, service was top notch and accurate with a complimentary car wash. What a mistake going with Honda Accord. What's going to happen in a year? Brakes worn out and the car fallen apart costing 28.5 K?

qbrozen

what are you talking about? rusted wheel wells on an '06? Please show me the pics of your car and its rusted wheel wells. I'm not buying it. Besides, even if its true, it would be covered under the rust protection warranty that comes with every new car.

Rusted rotors? I've NEVER had ANY vehicle that didn't come straight off the lot with rusted rotors. The edges and center where the pads don't touch are rusted all the time. Where the pads do touch gets surface rust every night and it burns off the first time I use the brakes the next day. It was that way with my first car 15 years ago, and it was that way with all 17 cars I've had since then.

alboston

By wheel wells I meant the inside surface of wheels hosting wheel rotors. Yes, I do have pics. Send me your e-mail. I do not need your 17 cars. At my work I have 2000 cars parked and all rotors are well except Honda Accord's and a few domestic brands. Even Subaru is perfectly galvanized. Do you understand the process of metal protection at all? Is your TV all rusted inside as well?

qbrozen

ummm... what exactly on my TV is galvanized? Its all electrodes and plastic boards. Besides that, it doesn't sit outside exposed to the elements.

Just what kind of cars are in your lot? I can go out to my lot here and find hundreds of cars from various makes with rusted rotors.

Maybe the problem is I don't understand what you are referring to.

Tell you what, here is a picture of my Volvo's Brembo rotor. I see rust around the edge and in the center (again, where the pads don't touch). This is what I thought you were referring to. Did I not understand your post?
http://www.geocities.com/xcab_99/DSC00059.JPG

alboston

Yeah, I know, it's great.
A little research showed that Wikipedia addressed this: "...A rust problem has been prevalent on the Accord since its introduction in the 70's, yet the design flaw remained until 2003. This flaw caused the Accord to typically form rust in or around the rear wheelwells. Repairs can reach into the thousands depending on the severity of the corrosion."
I respect your opinion as this forum's member, however I am not happy to be driving 28K vehicle with visible rust and future expenses. All visible metal should be protected. Yes, I expected it to be rusty eventually in 3-4 years, but not on a brand new vehicle.
On top of that, if you want to drive ugly rusted car - it is your choice (freedom). I just wanted to know folks that this is a problem, as well as pointed out the other issues. I would agree to deal with this problems and abysmall service for a car which cost 13k.
http://geocities.com/ussoftwarepro/blog.html

desertmom99

I have a 2005 Accord Coupe, 4 cyl, automatic. What is the difference between D3 and D? When should D3 be used versus D? I also am not clear on 1 and 2 and when and up to what speeds they should be used.

Thanks for any info.

Lea

mrbill1957

What do you consider "wheelwells"?

My understanding of a wheelwell is the opening around the wheels (sheetmetal) not the rotors or rims.

Yes, Hondas did have serious rust problems in the 70's (wheelwell sheetmetal). For what I remember, they even did free rust repairs since it was so bad.

The rust you show in the pics are of the brake rotors. The second pic seems to show the inner side of the rim? (a little unclear to me)

Is that an alloy rim? If so, how can it be rusty?

For what I've read, some rotors are plated in the non-pad contact areas. Honda doesn't seem to do that.

Mrbill

mrbill1957

I just looked at the rotors on my 04 EX-L. So far, they don't seem to show the rust problem like the pics you show. Mine appear to have some sort of coating since they have a dark shine to them.

I live in WI where they love to dump tons of salt on the roads. My 04 did see one winter, so they should show rust by now if they wern't coated with something, although I don't think they have any sort of plating.

Mrbill

another_person

yea, I don't see any rust on my 05 accord, but there is some slight rust on all 4 rotors of my 93 camry with original rotors and my 02 camrys. There is also some rust on my '00 land cruiser, but I think it's only more noticeable because the rotors are bigger. There isn't as much rust as in those pictures, but it's there. I agree that the second picture is actually the inner wheel, and it's not rust, just dirt. If you really want to get rid of it, just scrub. If you really want to prevent future rust, you can just paint on a rust preventative

hondalova

FYI

Mechanic finally changed the EGR valve. So far it hasn't coded (yet) and the idle seems smoother overall. However, it still runs a little rough when it first starts cold and I'm afraid this problem may not yet be fully solved.

-FS

thegraduate

"D" is the basic "Drive" gear, and should be selected for daily use and normal driving. It allows the car to shift normally, from 1st all the way to 5th gear.

"D3" works similarly to "D", except that it limits the gears to only 1, 2, and 3. It can be useful in hilly/curvy situations where engine braking is useful, as well as to prevent gear hunting in low-speed situations (below, say 40MPH).

"2" keeps the car in 2nd gear, and it will not return to first gear for any reason. This is useful for starting out in icy/snowy conditions, and provides further engine braking for low-speed heavy-braking applications (VERY steep hills).

"1" holds the car in first gear. Using 1, 2, D3, and D, the car can be shifted much like a manual.

Read your owners manual, it will tell you the same thing I did.

Also, it is safe, if not particularly healthy for the transmission, to use these gears as long as you are below 6,500 RPM, aka the REDLINE.

qbrozen

Well, as others are pointing out already, that is NOT the wheelwell. That is the inside of the rim. Hence my earlier confusion.

Also, as others have said, that does not look like rust to me. I found that same stuff on the inside of other wheels I've had and it can come off with alot of scrubbing. I found a plastic brillo pad (ummm... like a scotchbrite pad?) and rubbing alcohol works best. Just don't scrub too hard or you'll scratch it. this is dirt, grime, and caked/baked on brake dust.

I've already showed you BREMBO rotors with that rust. So I'm not sure how else to help you out here. Brembo is considered one of the best on the market. And here they are with the same rust you are showing on your accord. So, again, THIS IS COMMON AND NOT ACCORD-SPECIFIC. there is NOTHING wrong with your car!

miragesea

Hello:

I own a 2004 Honda Accord-4cyl sedan. The first maint. service was done by the dealer where I bought the car. Then the next oil change was done at a gas station but I bought synthetic oil, and the oil filter myself. Now there are 20K miles on the car and the maint. required light is on.
My question is since synthetic oil was used the last oil change, do I have to keep using synthetic oil--which is very expensive.
And, if I take the car to a non-dealer to perform the service how I find out what else besides the oil change should be done at 20K miles
Thanks in advance

user777

And, if I take the car to a non-dealer to perform the service how I find out what else besides the oil change should be done at 20K miles

1). your owners manual has recommended service intervals based on your usage (city / highway, warm / cold climate, start cycles / trip duration).

2). edmund's maintenance guide:
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/MaintenanceServlet

djm2

I cannot agree with you about this issue. There is a "big difference" between getting a rock into a headlamp lens,a windshield or onto the painted surface of the vehicle, and a hole in the condenser of the A/C system, (behind the nose of the vehicle). Some owners on this forum, have installed an additional grill to prevent this from occuring. If this "owner designed modification" prevents this from occuring, why doesn't the Honda Corporation design an "aftermarket grill" that can be installed to prevent this damage from happening? The reason is simple. If they came out with such an item, they will be admitting that there is a problem with the lack of proper protection for a component on the vehicle. So, they simply throw the responsibility on the owner of the vehicle, and they consider it "normal wear and tear", you know; ----"an act of God"! What is amazing, is that we as consumers, are willing to accept this as "normal"! --------Best regards. ----- Dwayne

miragesea

Thank you so much! This is a great site. What about the synthetic oil issue. Do I now have to use this oils all the time?
thanks
Sarah

mrbill1957

Based on what you are saying, then how do you view Honda bras for the front end? Isn't selling the bras admitting they have paint problems with the front of their cars?

Anyways, as your aware of, Hondas warranty doesnt cover "abuse, misuse, accidental damage, or acts of God"

If they did stand by the part, it would have to be a goodwill repair. I'd rather save a goodwill repair for something BIG like a failed tranny. I'll bet they keep a database of goodwill repairs.

Mrbill

qbrozen

i guess you missed the posts about how this happens to other cars besides Hondas?

ar39

Generally it is advised that once you switch to synthetic oil, you stick with synthetic oil. In fact, synthetic & conventional oils can be mixed without causing harm to the vehicle. Since your car is relatively new you could switch back to conventional oil. However, this is not advised for old cars. Also, avoid changing oil type frequently because oil seals would weaken resulting in leakage.

bioman

From my reading, Mobil 1 can be used with any car, old or new. I have been using it in my cars for 10 years now. Never had a problem. I started with an old Tercel that had over 100K on the odometer. Check out this website http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths. aspx. I go 5000K on my Explorer and Accord V6. No problems and I have the peace of mind that my cars are running on oil that is the best that money can buy. Is it expensive, yes. Read the characteristics of Mobil 1 and you will never go back to anything else.

dboe

A friend used to sell Amsoil. Back in the days when Mobil 1 was still a fine oil, but a small statement on the container said it used a conventional mineral oil as a base carrier.
Once Mobil 1 became a full synthetic, he found he had little argument as to why Amsoil would be any better.
I am sure Amsoil may have some properties that exceed even Mobil 1. But when you consider a full synthetic exceeds the best petroleum based oils in many areas that are not even critical for normal driving conditions, there is little I can see any other more expensive synthetic can do for you other than make your wallet lighter.
Yes, Mobil 1 is used in million dollar racing engines too and the apple does not fall far from the tree. It is most likely a race formulation that is very expensive, needs to be changed with every race, at a minimum, and probably not as friendly in sub zero temps or stop and go driving. The things the Mobil 1 you find on the shelf do very well.

don57

This is something I would like to do to my O6 sedan. How you get the mest behind the bumper and how did you secure it.
Thanks in advance for the help

ykang

My 2005 Accord EX-V6 had this ugly rust on all 4 wheels. Also both head rests rattle like rattle snake. Windows creaked all the time. I sold mine after 9 month of ownership. Of course I lost $5k. I will never buy Accord again.

mrbill1957

I removed the black plastic cover that's over the top of the bumper/radiator. Once off, it's easy to drop the screening behind the bumper. To anchor it, I just used a few black cable ties and tied it to the back of the louvers in bumper. Being down so low, you can't really see the screening or the cable ties.

Getting the plugs out of the plastic cover over the bumper/radiator may be a little bit of a pain. The plugs on my 04 had a phillips looking cross in the center, turning them didn't back them out till I pried up a little on them while turning. Once out, the rest of the plug pulls out.

Mrbill

clovisguy

We are having a problem with the CD Changer in our 2005 Honda Accord EXL with 12,000 miles on it. The radio works fine but it won’t play or eject any of the CD’s in the player. There is an error message on the display that says “mechanical error”. I read the troubleshooting guide in the owner’s manual and it says to call your service department. They will listen to the problem over the phone and often order an replacement (reconditioned unit) before you have to go in. I called the local Honda Service Department and scheduled an appointment to leave the car there for a day so they can run some checks before trying to replace the whole unit. This seems like something they should be able to do in the service isle if not over the phone? In additon, I was told this is the first time a problem with a CD player has been brought to their attention!

tinatina

Hello,

My new Accord with about 450 miles is making a poppingnoise/rubbing noise/cracking noise from the front suspension area or near the brake pedal @ about 5 mph - when backing up or moving forward. I also hear the noise when making turns at very low speeds. I will bring it in tomorow or Tuesday. Any thoughts or ideas? Maybe something with the suspension being too loose/too tight? Is this the popping noise related to the welds from the 2003s? Thanks.

ccd

Sorry to see your post - I am surfing this site to learn if any one has experienced what I just am experiencing with my 2006 Accord Se with 3900 miles on it (bought it new April 27, 2006 treat it like a baby and am the only driver.) My problem seems similar to yours. When I apply the brakes it feels and sounds like some one is hitting the bottom of the driver's side floor board with a small hammer. This happens, as the car reaches a low speed, even when I gradually apply the bakes so I do not think it is anything to do with the proper functioning of the brakes. I have just started surfing and perhaps this problem has been noted elsewhere and a remedy found. If not perhpas we will get a good answer from an educated reader! Charlie

clovisguy

Our 2005 Accord EXL makes noise when you step on the brakes at low speeds too. The brakes stop the car just fine though. The Honda Service Dept. checked it out at 7K and found nothing wrong with it. Our 92 Accord LX brakes never made noise the 13 years we had it!

thegraduate

Everyone seems to have this noise, while having no mechanical problems actually arise from it. I think it's not a problem, as my dad has 53,000 miles on his 2005 EX I-4, and while it makes this same "pop" noise when, say, backing out of the driveway, it has never malfunctioned.

My 2006 EX with 8,100 miles has done this since day one, also.