Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

akl88

on their Accord V-6 Coupe? It is the deep dark gray 5 spoke rim from Honda (go to the web site to see what I'm talking about) Well anyways I have a question/situation about these rims and I have them on my Accord...

My sister scraped my front right rim. She scraped the outer part of the rim and she did it by hitting the curb while parking , but anyways is there a way to fix the scrape, like paint or something? Or should I buy another rim? (It is a really depressing, horrific scrape. Half of the outer rim is shredded and the gray is literally not there.)

My second question is a very minor problem but I'll write it anyway:

I don't know if it is just me but it seems like the dark gray color on the rims is somewhat fading. I clean my rims with Black Magic Wheel Cleaner (spray on, hose off). I've been using it ever since I have gotten my car. Has anybody else noticed the fading? Or is it the cleaner that is making the fading? I read the instructions and it says to do it on a cool wheel (which I did) and leave on for max 30 sec. (which I also do). So...cleaner or just me?

BTW: I bought my car brand new and it is a G. Gray 05 Accord Coupe just purchased last year (I just hit 6000 miles)

tld

I have a 2005 EX 4cyl that I misplaced the user manual on.

I wanted to rotate the tires on it but don't know the pattern. Do we just swap the fronts with the back or do we cross the vehicle also (drivers rear going to passenger front.)

Also, my outer edges on the tire have a smooth edge on the front of the tread block but if you move your hand forward the other way it has a raised sharp edge. Is that tire pressure, alignment or normal? It has 15K on it.

ar39

I went ahead with Safelite to repair the crack as my insurer paid for it without any deductible. Just 1 phone call & they fixed the crack within a couple of hours, the same day (friday). The mobile unit came to my office & the process took 15 mins. I'm pretty impressed with Safelite's service. The crack looks like a scratch on the windshield & hardly noticeable. I've dropped the idea of replacing the windshield now! I would recommend the repair as long as the crack is small.

ar39

This is the pattern:

LR -> RF
RR -> LF
LF -> LR
RF -> RR

The uneven wear maybe due to extended use without rotating the tires. If the wheels are out of alignment, you'll observe difficulty in turning the steering wheel & sometimes a noticeable drag to one side. Maintain the air pressure to the recommended psi & rotate the tire every 10k miles.

ricopsuedo

I just got off the phone with my dealer and they say that since I have 70k miles on my Honda, they won't cover my display going out(replacing my radio) at Honda's cost. I asked how to open an issue with American Honda. What is the best way for me to open an issue with American Honda to try and get the $600 radio replacement cost covered to fix my display problem. thanks for all the info on this forum. I used the TSB number that was mentioned on this forum, but the dealer said that they are only covering cars up to 50k items. thanks.

hbinmi

I also have a 2003 V6 and had the radio replaced after the display went out. When I got the car back the dimmer control for the instruments didn't work. They argued that it was not related (yeah, sure) because the circuits are not close to each other. I talked to the service manager and they are "considering" some kind of deal on the repair which is over $300.
Another strange problem is that my headlights' brightness will change noticably (and annoyingly) while I drive. Sometimes every 5-10 secs and mostly after driving for a while. I had the dealer check the electrical systems and nothing was wrong (they said). It appears to follow the charging cycle for the battery. I have never seen that on any other car but the service guy at the dealer claimed his car did the same. Anyone have comments about this?

hbinmi

Just saw your posting. My dealer changed the radio at no charge (as I mentioned in my recent post) at 63,000. I have extended warranty but I still had to push to get them to do it for free. If your dealer is refusing, contact another dealer or call Honda HQ and they should take care of it.

mrbill1957

This may solve your headlight dimming problem.

http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1123052400000_1124089200000_05-034/index.html

Mrbill

tinatina

Wishman, I have not noticed this on my new, 2006 Accord SE, which I picked up last Thursday. I think the vehicle operates quite smoothly especially compared to my 2004 Accord LX (a very fine car). The engine/tranny for the 4 is arguably the best powertrain out there. I know since I previously owned a 1988 Acura Integra and a 2000 Accord (good cars, but shifts were hard at time).

hbinmi

Thanks, Mrbill! A trip back to the dealer with 4 pages of Service Bulletins is in order! Then I have to make sure they don't try to charge me for it since I first reported to them over a year ago (before the regular warranty expired) and I still have extended warranty.

stickguy

on my '05 4 cyl are generally imperceptible.

But, I have the manual tranny, so I have no ne to blame but mself if they aren't!

Every time I read a Honda AT topic it makes me even happier that I drive a stick, and the Accord has one of the best trans/clutch combos I have ever driven.

Too bad I couldn't get a stick in our Odyssey!

quality_dude

Just like many of you, my 2003 Honda Accord EX-V6 just hit 70,000 miles and the Stereo's digital display has gone dead. This is the 6-CD unit with dual climate controls. Unfortunately, I didn't purchase an extended warranty and it's now beyond the 3 year 36,000 mile factory warranty. According to the dealer, replacement cost is approximately $800 including parts and labor. After reading numerous postings and complaints posted all over the Internet, I decided to call American Honda @ (800)999-1009 to inquire. Not surprisingly, Honda has posted a very sweet sounding bimbo to answer their complaint line. Although she acknowledged that Honda is aware of complaints about this defect, she was quick (and seemed proud) to advise that Honda is not picking up the tab! No doubt she has been well trained on this topic as my attempts to bypass her were promptly thwarted. When I asked to speak to a Supervisor or another person of authority my request was flatly denied. Instead, she provided me with a P.O. Box where I could send my complaint in writing. Needless to say, I won't be buying anymore Honda's. This is the second major factory defect that I've encountered with this car.

ezshift5

...Every time I read a Honda AT topic it makes me even happier that I drive a stick, and the Accord has one of the best trans/clutch combos I have ever driven.

.....exactly what a salesdude indicated during my recent 15k service. I carefully questioned him and asked for clarification. He insists the 5-speed manual transmission is superior to the 6M in operation. I've driven both and have long voiced my frustration on the 6M's vague clutch. But I really am baffled with extolling the 5M over the 6M.

D'guispitus non-desputandem........

..ez..

brupop

Open question to those with 2005/2006 Accords:
Have any of you had this Defective Digital Display?
Or was this just on the 2003 model year?
Thanks,
GregB

ar39

I drive a 5MT LX & should agree that the MT cars have very few transmission problems compared with AT cars. The shifting is precise & smooth as butter!

I test drove a 6MT & feel the gearbox has scope for improvement. I'm sure Honda will refine the new gearbox.

thegraduate

Open question to those with 2005/2006 Accords:
Have any of you had this Defective Digital Display?
Or was this just on the 2003 model year?
Thanks,

My father has a 2005 Accord EX - 51,000 miles, and I have a 2006 Accord EX - 7,800 miles, and neither has had the display problem. My dad DID have it go out in his 2003 Accord, but we figured it was due to him being rear-ended and spilling coffee all over the dash upon impact (it even went in the CD player, at least we thought...it played discs though, just no display.

tinatina

No problem with my 2006 SE, or my 2004 Accord LX with over 26,000 miles (still a young pup).

ray_h1

"My wife drives a 2003, V6 Accord. It has an issue with excessive cranking when the engine is restarted after it is already warm."

Probably way too late to be of any help, but it may be time for a new airfilter element. Of less liklihood, is wifey pressing the accelerator pedal when she restarts a warm engine? If so, she could be inadvertently flooding the engine. The ECM will provide the proper fuel amount except at the very coldest ambient temperatures upon first cold startup. Otherwise, leave the accelerator pedal completely alone, hot or cold.

mtpuntin

Guiseppe,

Keywords: light lights headlight headlights dimming dim shifting transmission battery charging

--> headlights go bright and dim as car shifts - seems to be when transmission engages from coasting to driving.

I can duplicate at will!!!

I was searching the edmunds forum because I've been having this UNACCEPTABLE problem with my 03 EX V6 for over a year...started AFTER I had the car for a year! Dealer said it's normal due to charging system trying to save fuel mileage, which is CRAP because it didn't do it for a year!

DID YOU HAVE SUCCESS RESOLVING THIS?

The dealer recently showed me the service bulletin, but said they hadn't tried it on anyone's car yet.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

direct emails are mtpuntin@aol.com and mpuntin@climatehvac.com

Mike P.
Massachusetts

ray_h1

"...What I did mind was the sort of "lecturing" I received from the service advisor like I was an idiot and didn't know better..."

I can understand how his comments came across as condescending to an aware owner, but I'm not sure that's how he intended them. Remember - he comes across all types and most of us don't have "IQ" displays embedded in our foreheads. (That's not to say there aren't condescending service writers at dealerships - I've run across a few and they never get my repeat business again.) One other thing to consider is that owners' manuals almost always have two service interval charts: one for "normal service" and the other for "severe service". I do my own oil change servicing on my Sonata and I've given up trying to intelligently determine when to switch to the "severe service" regimen. Consequently, I just make it a habit to use the "severe service" schedule exclusively, year 'round - no question then about whether I guessed wrong and am doing damage to my engine. A mechanic friend of my dad's gave my dad a tip about oil change intervals a long time ago. Eddie said that if you see any beginning build-up of dark red on the oil dipstick, it's varnish and you'd better start changing oil more frequently because your oil is being overdriven for the conditions it's exposed to. Maybe simplistic, but dad, and now myself over my own 44 years of driving and maintaining my cars, always adherred to that little pearl.

ray_h1

"...I wanted to rotate the tires on it but don't know the pattern. Do we just swap the fronts with the back or do we cross the vehicle also (drivers rear going to passenger front.)..."

Origionally ALL radial tires were directional once placed in service and required being retained on the side of the car they were initially installed on because they took a "set" that would reduce their service life if x-rotated. Many current upper tier performance radials are manufactured directional and must be installed initially and later maintained according to an arrow designating forward direction molded into the sidewall. (If you x-rotated these tires, they're direction arrows would end up pointing rearward.) Current standard performance radial tires, however, have been safely capable of x-rotation, just as older bial-ply tires were, for the past decade, though.

jhinsc

One other thing to consider is that owners' manuals almost always have two service interval charts: one for "normal service" and the other for "severe service".

According the my owner's manual, I am to change the oil according the Maintenance Minder. It calculates when the oil should be changed based on the driving conditions the car is subjected to. There is no normal and severe service schedule. The car's computer figures it out for you. My 2000 Mercedes has something similar and I've always followed it, with oil changes happening about every 13,000 miles. At over 71,000 mechanically trouble-free miles, it still runs great and burns no oil. BMW has a similar system and GM has had it now for a few years too. What I found irritating was I stated several time that my Accord was a 2006 model, not a 05 or earlier which did not have the maintenance computer, and yet the service tech continued to "quote" his script about oil changes. My first oil change at the dealer service department may be my last there. :mad:

ray_h1

You're right - my bad. I forgot about Honda's foray into "Maintenance Minder"-land. Didn't Mercedes-Benz drop the Flexible Service System light on vehicles for sale in North America and return to specified time/mileage oil and oil filter change intervals?

robgrave

I've had my 2006 i4 EX for only one week, and already the buildup of black grimy dust on the wheels is very noticeable. Is this just "new brakes" or will it be a chronic nuisance? (I've never had a car with alloy wheels before, so I'm very new to all this.)

robgrave

jswan3

I just got a 2006 Accord EX this Monday and today after returning from a short 15 mile trip I went out to the garage about 1 hour and 10 minutes after I had parked it and the fans were running. They went off while I was there.

Is it normal for the electric fans to come on after that long of a cool down period? Maybe it has a bad sensor or some other problem.

Thanks for any comments.

ar39

This is not a common observation. You might want to take this matter with your dealer & get it fixed. Maybe a problem with the thermostat.

ar39

This is normal & no need to worry. You'll observe brake dust on the wheels throughout the life of the car.

robgrave

*This is normal & no need to worry. You'll observe brake dust on the wheels throughout the life of the car.*

I guess I assumed it was "normal," but still, not exactly good news. Better get used to frequent wheel washes, I suppose. It does wash off easily enough, at least.

Thanx for the reply. -- Robgrave

thegraduate

I don't find that the brake dust buildup on my 2006 EX I-4 is any quicker on my Accord than our 2003 Accord EX, 2005 Accord EX, 2002 CR-V LX, or 2000 Odyssey EX, or our Chryslers (yuck!) for that matter.

normkol

We recently got a 2006 EX and I was surprised to see the brake dust on the front wheels. I have an '00 Accord and an '05 Pilot, and never saw this kind of dust on them. My '02 Tribute, on the other hand, is infamous for it.

I'm suspecting Honda is using a different pad material, to be causing this dust buildup. I'll be curious to see if it subsides after the brakes are broken in.

robgrave

*I'm suspecting Honda is using a different pad material, to be causing this dust buildup. I'll be curious to see if it subsides after the brakes are broken in. *

Yes, it does seem to be a bit excessive (though I have no previous experience with alloys to compare.) And I am hoping it is mainly a "new brakes" phenomenon.

Time will tell. With less than 150 miles on the car, it's too soon to judge.

Robgrave

EDIT: I notice from previous postings in this thread that ceramic pads (as opposed to semi-metallic) generate more dust. Ceramic pads are now factory issue for Honda? I don't know.

badgerfan

My Taurus has ceramic brakes pads, both on the original pads and now on the replacements. No brake dust noticeable on the alloy wheels at all.

robgrave

Further investigation (elsewhere on the Web) leads me to conclude that the dust comes from carbon metallic pads, not ceramic. In fact, the general conclusion seems to be that the main advantage of ceramics over carbon metallics is dust, i.e., ceramics are relatively dust-free.

An informed posting here on this issue would be much appreciated.

Robgrave

elliottpd

I am also having this problem on my 2006 Honda Accord V6. I just made my first long drive on the highway, and discovered the problem this past weekend. I know this post is 6 months old, but if you are still active here, I would like to know, have you resolved this? Do you know the cause? I had a remote start installed in my car, and was wondering if it might be related to that?

elliottpd

OK, so I hope you know this already, if it applies to your situation. I just figured it out after reading in another forum, that the problem with the cruise control dropping out is due to the DrawTite wiring harness that was recently installed for my utility trailer. I don't have a solution at this time, but that has caused the problem for me.

aidawg

I have a 2003 4 dr EXL. Yesterday, the front passenger door would not open from the inside. It opens fine from the outside. It seems like the inside handle is "loose" with a little play in it. Anyone have any ideas?

robgrave

*...I passed a car yesterday doing 45 in a blink by just pulling the lever back to third, and giving it about 3/4 throttle and letting it rev to 5500 or so. Then shift to regular drive. The only things you will lose is a little bit of gas.*

But wouldn't the hard (3/4) throttle automatically create the downshift to D3? What is actually gained by manually downshifting?

I'm a bit timid about my new Accord, I suppose [and hard throttles aren't recommended during the break-in period, in any case], but is it really perfectly safe to use the powertrain this way?

Robgrave

ray_h1

Tromping the accelerator pedal to force an automatic downshift will result in a delay in some automatic transmissions while the TCM "ponders" whether that's really what the driver desires. As to the advisability of engaging 5,000 rpm at 3/4 load in a still running-in engine, there're always those willing to eagerly share their expertise on this site without regard for the consequences of their advice. I would merely query what your owner's manual advises regarding the duration and severity of new engine initial operation.

thegraduate

Squeezing 3/4 throttle would downshift to 3rd gear as quick as you'd need, especially if you aren't a drag racer (it sounds like you are similar to me, and aren't).

robgrave

The owner's manual cautions against "hard accelerations" and "hard braking" during the engine break-in period. Obviously, that rules out the passing operation described, with or without the manual downshift. Or, as you put it, "engaging 5000 rpm at 3/4 load" with a new engine would be foolhardy.

I'm just questioning whether it would ever be advisable to manually downshift under those conditions, even if the engine is primed and ready to take it. It's the stress on the transmission I was wondering about, not the engine.

The owner's manual does allow for shifting through the gears manually -- i.e., operating the automatic as if it were a manual trans -- but only in the context of more conservative operations, like dropping to D3 on a downslope to take advantage of the breaking power of the engine (thus taking stress off the brakes themselves.) Throwing the trans down a notch to begin a hard acceleration (more of a sports car maneuver, really) is something else again.

What the heck, it would be great fun to drive my Accord like that; not so much fun, however, to have to replace a blown-out transmission for having abused it. And that's why I raised the question: is the Accord AT fully manumatic in that sense, or would it be flirting with a breakdown to drive it that way?

Experienced Accord owners will have their opinions, I'm sure. Me, I'm more than willing to read what they have to say.

Robgrave

robgrave

Nope, I'm not a drag racer, you got that right. And I don't wish I'd bought a sports sedan -- V6 with 6 speed manual -- either. I got the car I wanted, and I'm happy with it. A conservative car for a conservative driver, that's about the size of it. I like the 4 cyl., and I like the convenience of AT.

Funny thing is though, I find myself resting my right hand on the shift selector as I drive. I don't know, it just seems more natural than resting my arm on the console arm rest. In anticipation of the day, after break-in, when I will aggressively downshift for a strong acceleration? I don't know, if the car's meant to take it, I can see myself doing it now and again. Just for the fun of it.

Then again, maybe the best advice is to simply let the AT do its job without manual prompting. That's what the salesman told me when I asked about it, and I listen to everyone and anyone who has more experience with Hondas than I do (that's just about everyone, really!)

Just opening a possible new debate topic for the forum...(getting tired of reading about correct oil change intervals, you know?)

Robgrave

djm2

Tygerleo:
Reference: --- 2003 Accord front seat
Saturday I took a friend down to the Jersy Shore to do some fishing on his boat. We took the Accord. After sitting in the passenger seat for an hour, he started to complain about the lack of comfort of the seat. He is correct in his assessment of the quality / comfort of the seat. My accord is a four cylinder, and the seats are leather. Honda does not allow the customer to have a power seat with a four cylinder engine, on the passenger side of the vehicle. Even the "driver's power seat", while better than the "passenger's non-power seat", is not that much better with regards to comfort. The seat is JUST TOO HARD, and the angle of the seat, in relation the the position to the driver's legs, does not allow for comfort on a long trip. The seat needs to be softer, higher and flat. (No side wings). I use a "soft pillow" on the bottom of the leather dirver's seat for comfort! ---- Best regards. Dwayne

user777

i miss the '94 2-Dr manual myself...

there have been a few instances when merging into ATL traffic on 285 where it was necessary to drop my '02 4CYL AT 4Dr out of D and into a lower gear.

but, i do not on a regular basis shift the AT like a manual. it's just not designed for this purpose and done on a regular basis, i can imagine it leading to premature wear/failure.

thegraduate

With a completely flat seat, maybe a Buick bench seat would be more comfortable to you? With a leather interior and NO side bolsters to hold you in place (like a 97 Tahoe LT I used to ride in), you'd slide all over the place in moderate driving, much more so on things like a descending-apex off-ramp...you'd be plastered to the door .

I have cloth interior (leather seats felt even firmer than my cloth, not sure why), so sliding isnt an issue with me.

tallman1

I agree... you need the sides to hold you in. I know some folks here complain about the seats being too hard. I have the leather and really don't notice it that much but I like firm seats anyway.

One more example of different strokes....

elroy5

Sounds like you should have bought a Camry. With the soft pillowy seats, and "float like a boat" ride. Some of us like the firm seats and better handling suspension. Along with some side bolstering for cornering. I rode in my father's 71 Impala not long ago (flat vinyl seat) and I had to hold on tight to the steering wheel, so I would not slide to the passenger side on left turns. Maybe you should have gotten the V6 Accord. It has a power seat on the passenger side also.

djm2

I have a better idea. Judging from the postings dealing with the comfort of the Accord seats, I think Honda should offer a power seat option on the passenger side of the Accord, in the four cylinder model. In addition, I think that it is a reasonable request to have seats on a $23,000 dollar + vehicle that are comfortable! The mechanical end of the four cylinder Accord is ok, but the seating characteristics are not acceptable. ---- Best regards. ---Dwayne :lemon:

tallman1

I find the seats to be just fine and quite comfortable on short and long trips. I agree that a power seat on the passenger side makes sense but I hardly agree that comfort of seats earns any car a lemon designation. That would be one area that a buyer would note during a test drive and then stay away from that particular car if the seats didn't suit him or her.

"The mechanical end of the four cylinder Accord is ok"

Just "ok"??? Even those who are not big fans of the Accord would say the I4 is a great engine.

richards38

My '04 EX-L has great seats IMO, but it's a personal opinion as is anything dealing with physical comfort.

When my Accord was 4 months old in Dec., '03, I drove it 8.5 hours with only 3 brief stops and the driver's seat was supportive and comfortable with no tendency for me to squirm at all. And my back hurts much of the time-- but not while I'm in the Accord!

The 4 cylinder engine is great in the city and on the highway, too. Part of that 8.5 hour drive from San Francisco to Palm Springs was over the Grapevine--a long, steep hill. The engine drove effortlessly. Highway mileage was 33.2 MPG and combined MPG is usually 24 to 25 in mixed driving around the San Francisco area. At 80 MPH the Accord's engine is nearly silent running at about 2500 RPM. There's no need for the V6 unless you plan to carry heavy loads or pull a trailer.

I've never enjoyed a car more.

tom83

Hi. I've just started reading this forum as I have a new '06 Accord SE with auto. trans. After a trip to the trailer hitch place and then to the dealership for a problem with my cruise control, I have found out the problem is Draw-Tite's. After my trailer hitch place called the technical help line, the correct Draw-Tite wiring harness number is #18176. It includes a red wire that has to be run all the way to the battery. Honda changed the wiring for 2006 that was probably part of the new lights on the rear end. I had them remove the incorrect harness they put on for me and am thinking about the correct one for down the road.