Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

joe122

I believe this is normal. My 2005 LX makes a distinct mechanical click when changing gears. It is particularly noticeable when going from Drive to Reverse. I noticed it one day in the garage (the driver's side window was open and the sound reflected off the wall).

On my visit to the dealer for the 10,000 mile service, I mentioned it. The mechanic's response was that is typical of Honda transmissions and is "undesirable". I found the use of that term odd. When questioning that, he said that Honda refuses to acknowledge a "noise", but that the mechanical click is normal.

At that moment, a woman backed out of a space in a 2004 Odyssey. When she changed gears, I heard the exact same sound made by my Accord transmission.

bmr123

I have a 05 accord sedan v6.. Ive noticed annoying creaking and crackling noises from the driver and front passenger windows while driving. The dealer has no clue how to fix it they keep telling me that they dont hear it and that its normal for the car. Any ideas on what to do? anyone else notice this?

bmr123

Yeah same things I noticed on my 05. I get a weird crackling noise from the drivers window. My door lock doesnt make the noise but I do get the noise from the window

thegraduate

Yes, my dad's 2005 EX also has creaky windows. It now has an awfully loud rattle in the trunk, which is driving him so crazy he's about ready to trade in it on something else, NOT an Accord. His last Accord had lots of rattles (2003), and his current one does now, so he's about tired of having his $23,000 cage rattled.

rcc8179

My 2003 Accord also has the creaking windows. It seems that Honda uses some very stiff and sticky door/window seals--they are great at keeping the water out, but they rub against the body when going over uneven pavement. Using some silicone spray lubricant stops the problem (until the next time it gets wet). A dealer once put some silicone gel on them, which held up longer, but I have not been able to find any. I would be very interested to hear if there is any SOLUTION to the problem, not just a band-aid.

As for the rattle in the trunk, it might be the plastic surround that covers the center rear seat belt retractor--it is a cube hanging down from the rear shelf. I had to shove some felt between the surround and the rear shelf to stop the noise in my car.

jhuckaby

Mine has the same problem, usually just the driver and passenge doors. I used an old clean sock and spray silicone, put the sock over my hand, saturated it several times while rubbing down ALL the door gaskets. No more noise. Seems this needs to be done about every six months.

thegraduate

Trust me, I've wiggled the black box that the seatbelt goes into. He actually drove around my block (not heavily traveled) over and over while I rode halfway in the trunk w/ the seat folded down trying to follow the rattle. I never found it!

mamamia2

This SAME issue has been dealt here A LOT.... Seems like this is a regular with Honda (even my '95 Accord used to do it whenever the windows were not totally closed)...

Go back, do some search, as much as I remember there were some good ideas as to how to fix it...

cateague

I have just had the same problem with a bad LED in the radio, climate control,etc. How much money are we talking about?

elroy5

We are talking about from what i've heard $800 or more because they have to replace the whole unit (can't just change the light). But I have heard that Honda of America will good will it (no charge) since it is a common problem. Even if the warranty has run out. Talk to the dealer about it (let them know you know it's a common problem). If that does not work for you, call HOA. Good luck

drive2005

1.How often do you have to change the Oil and Filter
2. Does anybody of good car cleaning products

djm2

I like to change the oil and filter in my 2003 Accord every 3,000 miles. This is my choice! I give my Ford Mustang the same preventive maintenance. Both vehicles are serviced by the dealer. Some people service at 5000, 7500 or 10000 miles. An engine with clean oil will give the driver the best possible fuel mileage. You need to decide for yourself on this issue. ---- Best regards. ---- Dwayne

drive2005

Thank You Dwayne,
The 2006 accord has maintenance indicator and shows the %age of Oil life remaining, should I use this as the indicator on when to change the oil or follow the 3k, or 5K mile intervals no matter the Oil life.
Currently I have about 220 miles and the oil life indicator shows 70%
Cheers!

thegraduate

The maintenance minder should tell you with no problem, but I can relate with feeling guilty driving right past the 3,000 mile mark. I may go every 6,000 miles or 15%, whichever comes first, for my conscience.

tallman1

1. You will read many comments on this board and others about when to change oil. Some like to do it at 2-3k and some like to follow the owners manual. There have been many spirited discussions on the topic but I think the owner's manual group has swayed me. One thing that almost everyone agrees on is to wait until 5000 miles before you do the first oil change so that the factory oil has a chance to work it's magic on the new engine.

2. I've always kept my cars clean by using various products purchased at auto parts stores but I've learned a lot from the web recently and have changed some habits. Two places that have good info are Top of the Line and Griot's Garage.

The latter has a nice Detailer's Handbook that you can download for free. I'm sure others will have favorite places as well but you should spend some time doing some reading. I'm so impressed with various products I've purchased recently.

Good luck!

mamamia2

220 miles and the oil life indicator shows 70%

---- This does not seem right to me... Maybe it's 2,200 miles, no? Or at least 1,220?

drive2005

Oops!. The mileage on my car is 2200,

Thank You

steve9273

I purchases a 2006 Honda Accord about 3 months ago. Yesterday I accidently hit my trash can while backing out the driveway, leaving some significent scratched on the drivers side door. Some of them look deep & some just scratched the clear coat. Anyone have suggestions on what I could do to get rid of them???

mamamia2

It's called BODY SHOP... Check for a reputable one, and go see what they say...

06nighthawkv6

Man,
I mean Mannnnn,

I gotta wash my car cuz it's black and its fugly with a few layers of caked on dirt on top of the trunk(litnus test). My question is, not wanting to start a big debate on which wax is the best cuz you can get all kinds either online or mail order etc, but what is the best wax or lets just say, post car-wash application i can put on my car? Wax on Wax off is truely for the manual labor lover inside us all but man waxing is a pain the [non-permissible content removed], it's like performing surgery on your car, what with all the don't wax in the sun..give your car's body time to cool off or you get run-offs and the worst is don't use water from the hose cuz it will cause spots or the formidable don't use certain cloths cuz they will cause streaks! Hell, I'm just now getting down the oldey but foohey don't let your car dry from the wind/sun or it will leave that whtie soapey film on your car. (this one still get me to this day) Having said all this, isn't there an off-the shelf car wax..either thru some wholesale vendor like Costco or Sams or something off the shelf at certain speciality automtive shops or hell even Home Depot or Walmart that I can use that's pain-in-the-[non-permissible content removed] free? I don't need a show-car finish but I want to effectively help "seal" the car from the elements and have a shine and I would like for it to last like 6 months so I don't have to break my hands and legs waxing on and waxing off.. Someone out there..give me a blow by blow of what I need and how to do it and how long it will take and where to do it cuz I swear you can take a weekend course in car cleaning with all the chemicals for different applications (like 3M to remove scratches and swirls etc) to canuba and bars and on andon and on..there has to be a laymans way that doesn't involve major pains in the [non-permissible content removed]. I am even willing to order on-line if there is some consenseus or "Accord" if you will on what is a cost effective yet proven way and/or stuff to do this post car-ash "wax" Anyone?!

tallman1

There's a forum on Edmunds about waxing that you may want to read through or repost your message there. I learned a lot by reading the Detailer's Handbook that Griot's Garage has on their website. You can buy it or download it for free.

elroy5

I have an 03EXV6 Accord "NIGHTHAWK BLACK". I know how hard it is to keep this color looking good. I just purchased some Turtle wax "ICE" polish and it is much easier than other waxes. To put on, and take off. I suggest you try it out. I have only used it once, so far, but I am impressed. I used to use Nu finish, it lasted longer than Maguiar's but it wasn't that easy to apply or remove. The white dust the Nu finish left behind, was a real problem on black paint. The new "ice" stuff is synthetic, and leaves no white dust behind. And you can find it at Walmart.

seniorjose

I had my 05 Accord Sylvania Silverstar headlights burn out last week and had them replaced with OEMs at FOX Honda in Auburn NY. I received a phone call Friday from FOX to see if I were satisfied with their service, which I was. They called me in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, some 850 miles away from their dealership...hmmm, now that is service. My local Honda dealer also gives superior service.

brupop

To keep your finish from getting spots, streaks, or scratches from drying it, use the Mr.Clean (yeah, the bald guy) Wash and Rinse System. It has a deionization cartridge which removes all the minerals in the rinse water. Your car will air-dry with no spots and since you don't rub it with anything it doesn't get streaked or scratched.
No, I don't work for the company; I've just used it for two years now and it works.
GregB

imidazol97

Why not just throw some Downy in your rinse water and slosh it over the car. Then wipe dry as needed after the water sluices off.

brupop

imidazol97,
Why don't you try that and report back to us the results?
As I've said, the Mr. Clean System has worked for me in the real world.
BTW, it is available at most stores, Target, WalMart, etc.
GregB

imidazol97

>Why don't you try that and report back to us the results?

I already have.

Actually my neighbor whose business has contracts with PG suggested it to a person in management there long ago. He had been doing it with his three Acuras and Integra. It works.

And this is the 'real world.'

Enjoy.

1997montez34

I have a '03 Accord LX sedan with 65K. I do a lot of highway miles for my job. Last week my Air Conditioning stopped working. I took it to my dealer and they told me the compressor siezed, causing the compressor clutch to burn out along with the stator/coil. All told it's about a $1000 repair. I took the car to a few other shops and they all concurred with the dealer's opinion. Has anyone else had issues like this on a relatively new car?

ezshift5

.....the compressor siezed, causing the compressor clutch to burn out...



..all of us regret your not getting the EW...

..having said that, YES (my work bud had the compressor fail on his 2000 Honda......). He no got EW either.

..he said it cost about $300 (which is less than the EW...)

..ez..

elroy5

If you had a "black" car you would know that the Mr. Clean stuff doesn't leave spots, but it does leave a light film on your car. On a light color car you probably can't see it. But it is there. I have a Mr. Clean system to give away. Anyone near Thibodaux LA want one?

c_hack

A few days ago I scheduled a 45K service at my York, PA Honda dealer. I specifically requested ONLY what was required by the service manual. They quoted me $229. I thought the price was high for an oil/filter change and inspection so I called some independent garages that I have used. They agreed the price was ridiculous.

After calling Honda back, I discovered they were planning work which was NOT required by the manual-
- engine coolant flush which is not required until 120K even under harsh conditions
- brake fluid flush which was not required for another 6 months. (Why is this even required at 3 years?)

Their answer was that their brochure had those items at 45K. They ignored the service manual, and my request and were happy to charge me for service I specifically did not want. They even tried to convince me the coolant flush is required by the service manual at 45K under severe conditions - the manual says 120K

Be careful and have your dealer itemize the service against your manual so you're not having unnecessary service done. Unless of course you don't mind paying $229 for an oil and filter change.

elroy5

My local Toyota dealer did that to me. I asked them what the 30,000 mile service cost. The tech says $97.00 or something like that. When I go pick up the truck the price was over $300. Needless to say, it never went back there again.

djm2

Why did you ask the Service Technician for the price on the 30,000 mile service? You should have asked the Service Manager or the Service Writer. What did the dealer do for $300.00 dollars? Based on the service performed, you might have been treated properly!Give us some details on this service. :confuse: Best regards. --- Dwayne

djm2

I have heard about this problem before on 2003 Accords. My compressor went out after the new car warranty expired. (I drive alot) Lucky, I have a seven year 100,000 mile, "0" deductable Honda Care Warranty. The cost of the repair was $1,005.00. I paid nothing. The cost of the warranty was $875.00. I have always purchased an extended warranty on my vehicles. Most of the time, I end up breaking "even", or I am ahead in terms of the cost of repairs. Sorry for your problem. ---Dwayne

djm2

I have the coolant changed on the 2003 Accord every two years, and I have the brake fluid flushed once a year, as part of my own preventive maintenance program. Contaminated brake fluid can damage hydraulic components. This is cheap maintenance. In addition, I have the automatic trans fluid changed at least once a year. On the other side of the issue, I drive the car hard on the open road. I use the owner's manual as a maximum guide for maintenance. ----Best regards. -----Dwayne

c_hack

Everyone has the right to make their own decision on the preventative maintenance they wish to perform on their car.

What is upsetting is when the dealer ignores your requests and lies about it in order to fatten their profit.

elroy5

When I checked the schedule for the 30,000 mile checkup it was quite a list. So when the guy told me it was $97.00 I figured why not let them do it. He could have been the service manager. This is a small dealership, no service desk, you walk right into the shop area. I talked to the first guy who came up to me. They changed the oil and filter, transmission fluid, and checked a few things. $200 or under would have been acceptable. Over $300 was not. They should not tell you $97.00 when they know it's going to be more than that. Just to get some business. It's dishonest. I do all my own maintenance now.

imidazol97

Did you let the service manager/store manager know you'd been told $97 and charged $300 BEFORE you left? I'd have made it clear I wasn't happy. If he felt $300 was the price then he has a problem with someone quoting low prices without knowledge. If he felt $300 was padded he could have adjusted it some to keep a customer coming back.

elroy5

Basically he told me that the only way it would have cost just $97.00 is if the maintenance had already been done, and nothing needed to be changed or adjusted. I thought this was the stupidest thing I ever heard, but decided not to argue the point. They just lost a customer, period. I'm not the type to make a scene, and argue with people. They screwed me once, it won't happen again. I actually traded the Toyota for my Accord anyway and won't be going back to Houma Toyota for anything anymore.

drive2005

Have Graphite Pearl Accord Lx, I am looking for good car cleaning products
1. For interior - dashboard etc.
2. Exterior - to get rid bugs etc.
3. Wheels (Have only standard wheels not alloy)
4. Wax Products for exterior
5. Can Scotchgaurd used on the cloth seats to prevent stains etc.
6. Has anybody installed 3M Clearcoat film for the front bumper and hood - is it worth it since I was coated a price of about 400-500 dollars in NJ

Thank You

elroy5

As for wax, I just started using the new Ice polish from Turtle wax. Goes on easy, comes off easy, and no white residue. I'm very impressed, so far. As far as protecting the front from bugs and rock chips, the only thing that really works is a nose mask. It can be a hassle(putting it on and taking it off all the time), but nothing can chip your paint through it. Don't know about where you live, but in the spring love bugs are bad in Louisiana. If you leave them on the car for a couple of days it ruins the paint (won't come off).

mrbill1957

Something a chemist told me years ago concerning exterior products.

If the product says Polish, it probably doesn't contain Wax. A product that has wax will say so. I personally look for something that contains Carnauba wax.

If the product says it cleans or "renews" the finish, then it has a very fine "grit" in it. That type of cleaner actually removes some of the finish while using. A new car has a new finish, and there is no need to clean or renew it (other then washing it first). Older finishes may have oxidation, thats when you want a cleaner-polish.

Mrbill

elroy5

Tint on the windows, and a sun screen on the windshield will help keep the interior from fading and drying out. I hate to use Armor-all, because it just attracts more dust. I use a damp microfibre (less lint) towel, and a dry one to wipe the interior. I only use a cleaner, if a damp towel will not remove a spot.

seniorjose

The slow down feature keeps the auto from freewheeling down hills or mountains. It has been a feature since the 99 Odyssey that I am aware of. It is a nice feature in the snow and ice.

thegraduate

Actually, it has been around since the mid-1990s on Accords and Civics were equipped this way starting in 1996.

danxp

for warranty/repair/maintenance, does it matter where you purchase your honda?

if i purchase from a dealer 20 miles away, can i get it serviced from the dealer closest to me? and get a loaner? will i be last on the priority list when making appointments?

thanks.

elroy5

It does not matter where you bought the car. Any Honda dealer will do the warranty work. They get paid the same (by Honda) either way. Some dealers offer loaners, and some don't.

elroy5

"Consumer Reports" has this to say about buying extended warranties: (and I agree) You should not need an extended warranty, unless of course you are buying a car known to be unreliable . The money I spent on the extended warranty when I bought my first Honda Accord was wasted. That $800 would have bought a lot of temperature control knobs. Which is the only thing that was changed during the extended warranty period. Chances are you will spend more on the warranty, than you will save by having it.

seniorjose

Both my low-beam Silverstars in my 05 Accord failed when I was on a trip of about 2,000 miles. Scary scene, so much for Silverstars...once bitten...! Thank goodness, I have fog lights because the Silverstars both failed at the same time! Back to the Honda OEMs.

ral2167

hi...

whenever i put 2004 accord sedan 4 cylinder in reverse, i get a noise as if someone is blowing their horn ... and it's not my horn... no noise going forward. noise occurs whether car is moving backwards, or i have brake on.... noise disappears once i shift to drive. 75,000 miles-- original stuff (no replaced brakes yet)... any thoughts?