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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • ddnyddny Posts: 20
    Hey - I'm going through the same nightmare on mine. We should compare manufacture dates! My car needed brakes @20K miles, was told that the the E Brake on my car was adjusted too tightly, like it was on all the time.

    Screwed up the brakes so badly that they needed to cut all the rotors and get new pads.

    Trouble is, 10,000 miles later, my brakes are not only shot again, I need all 4 new rotors! (that = $950 btw).

    Make sure you get and keep copies of all your work - you might need it for the eventual class-action suit :-)

    I just started a thread that's specific to the 2004+ accord brake problems. It'd be good to put your 2 cents in.

    Good luck!

  • ddnyddny Posts: 20
    Warning!! Have another dealer check, or a 3rd party mechanic. I also ignored my grinding noise from 10K-20K miles only to need a full brake job @ 20K, all new rotors @ 30K. Turns out that the E brake was adjusted too tightly from the factory (uses the rear brakes).

    Of course, Brakes are the only thing that they don't replace under warranty, so now I'm out another $950 for the rotor job.

    I started a new forum dealing with 2004+ Accord brake problems specifically. You should keep us posted of your findings, and good luck!
  • ddnyddny Posts: 20
    My 2004 accord V6 also has inherent brake problems. I needed a full brake job @ 20K, now I need all new rotors @30K, and of course, brakes are not under warranty.

    About driving style 'warping' brakes, that's horse hooey. None of my other various Honda, Toyotas, and Mopars have ever needed brakes like this car.

    There's a TSB on the Accord brakes up to '03, but they're feigning ignorance on the '04 on up. I guess free brake jobs were eating into the bottom line.

    I started a separate forum specific to 04+ Accords and their brake problems. Possibly check there for more input.
    We might not be alone on this one.

    Good luck!
  • noxcusesnoxcuses Posts: 16
    I sent my brand new only a week old 06 Accord in to get checked for alignment. When I purchased it, it had a slight pull to the left so the service wanted it checked out.

    Anyway, when I went to pick up the car this afternoon, the car was not in the area where the service cars usually are. It was way in the back on the other side of the dealership.
    After getting it home, I noticed it had a ding on the rear bumper from being struck by another vehicle. Either that or someone driving my car backed into another car. I could clearly see the license plate screw marks on my car.

    I called the service dept and they said they are not responsible. Tomorrow I will go and talk to the svc manager.

    So should the dealer have to fix it? Are they responsible?
    I believe they should be!
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    Absolutely no brake concerns in the past 25K miles with my 2004 Accord Coupe. They work perfectly and sound totally normal. I.e., there's nothing out of the ordinary to hear.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Did you drive the vehicle prior to completing the purchase? When I am ready to make a vehicle purchase, I make it a point to drive the vehicle that I am purchasing, prior to making the deal. I do not drive a "dealer's demo"! This means that the sales person and I walk the "new vehicle lot", and when I find a few cars that I like, he / she gets the keys, and I take them out for a ride with dealer plates. I usually drive about three vehicles of the same type so that I can get a "feel" for the performance and the operating characteristics of the individual units. If the dealer or the sales person does not want to accomodate me with this basic requirement, I simply walk! I keep my money, and they keep their cars. With this system, I have eliminated many issues associated with the new vehicle purchasing process. Had you done this, you would have noticed a slight pulling to the left, and you could have rejected the vehicle. Getting the dealer to repair the body damage after the fact depends on their "good will"!------- Best regards. ---- Dwayne
  • Honda recommends to "replace brake fluid" regardless of mileage at 3 years. I just spoke to my (independent) mechanic about this and he recommended against it. He said he has seen too many Accords come back within a few weeks needed a new master cylinder as a result of this service.

    What has been the experience of others with regard to this?

    Thanks in advance for you comments.

    P.S. I have a 2003 Accord EX-L with about 65K miles.
  • crankkycrankky Posts: 45
    Interesting that you mention the E-brake being too tight. I had to have the dealer fix a problem with my emergency brake too. The lever was so tight that I could not release it after pulling it up. And when it was down, the release button was always pushed (or pulled) in. Now, I'm wondering if the rear brakes were continuously dragging even though the dash light wasn't on. Maybe so, because I'll be the dash light is triggered by the position of the brake lever and not when the rear brakes are actually engaged.

    Just wondering how to approach this with the dealer.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    We have an '05 Accord with 6,300 on the odometer.

    I notice that the "Service Requ'd" light is blinking for a few seconds after the car's ignition is turned on, and then goes off.

    What's that all about?
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Posts: 131
    The service required light is a mileage-based reminder to get your regularly scheduled service. Once you reach 10k miles (7.5k in the V6, I believe), it will stay on. The instructions to turn it off are in your owner's manual.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    So at 6,300 it would just blink for a few seconds, and at 7,500 it would STAY ON?

    Yes, I know there is an easy way to turn that message off, BUT one thing that bothers me is, since I purchased the EXTENDED WARRANTY, is that I have to be more careful about maintenance and service schedule, and to prevent any chance of Honda denying a warranty claim in the future -- I have to go by the book ....

    ...Which I won't mind that much, but I am not happy to visit my dealer every couple thousand miles, and make him RICH on my expense.... Those "service visits" to the dealership is what makes them so HAPPY.... A friend of mine was asked to pay $275 for an oil change, tire rotation and some "inspections"....
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 40,808
    The light basically tells you it is time for a oil change. You should also have an oil life indicator (cycle through the settings on the odometer) which is probably getting pretty low on you car.

    Most Honda dealers have a set price express oil change. The ones near me run about $29, for the normal oil/filter/lube and fluid inspections. Tire rotation obviously costs more, but shouldn't be too expensive. In any case, you can do that (or the oil change for that matter) at another shop if you want. No requirement to use a dealer.

    Make sure to review the owners manual, and know what you want done before you arrive, and have them do just that work. SOme dealers will try to pack on a bunch of marginally useful, but certainly overpriced, extras, which might be what happened to your friend. Or, it was a major service interval, and they really did more work (change other fluids, etc.).

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD

  • flaminioflaminio Posts: 20
    Anyone ever have any problems w/ changing their own oil and warranty repairs, both standard and extended? It seems every other service period is a simple oil change and I've been considering just doing it in the garage for these periods, then going to the dealer for the longer stuff. Basically the A and B periods in the maintenance minder. I've always heard "keep the reciepts," but that doesn't really prove anything with oil changes. I buy oil by the case and doesn't do anything to prove date or milage of self service, or even that all the oil goes into my car (which it won't).
  • I had a rattling noise from my steering column. I could reproduce the sound by tapping on the top of my steering wheel. Luckily, the dealer was able to fix it. I have another rattling noise coming from the back seats. I think I've narrowed it down to the coat hanger/hand bar.

    if you have a navigation system, then another possibility might be the plastic casing.
  • Grinding is never good. Squeaks can be bad or can be nothing. Definitely have another dealer take a look at it.

    Keep in mind that people, including Honda service people, seem to think that Honda brake pads aren't the greatest. I was told that I'd have to have them replaced around 35K. I've had one warped rotar (at about 16-18K) replaced under warranty, and I've had continuing squeaks. I had the squeaks looked at. Everything supposedly checked out fine. I'll have them look at it again next time I'm in for my oil change.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Chances are, your dealership has "On-Line" specials. Find their website (if it exists) to find discounts on service.

    You want to go by the book right? The most important book for you to read is your owner's manual. Seriously.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    The most important book for you to read is your owner's manual. Seriously.

    ---Yes, that is my point. If you purchase the extended warranty you have to REALLY go by the book, and perform every maintenance scheduled in the book religiously, so that Honda doesn't have any excuse to deny coverage in the futrure.

    What I will do is perform all those (or at least most of them) at my local Shell station, as long as I keep detailed receipt of everything.

    Would you agree with me?
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 40,808
    if you look at the book for most new cars, there is almost no maintenance required. Just oil changes (on an extended schedule) and a few "inspections". No tranny fluid or coolant change, plugs at 100K, etc. so it would be really hard to get denied for lack of maintaining your car if you change the oil 2x a year!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD

  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    My Accord is an '05, which doesn't have the oil life indicator.

    No requirement to use a dealer.

    -- Yes. See my other post, above.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 40,808
    same as me. I believe that 5K is the recommendation, at least for severe use, which is what almost everyone should follow anyway.

    My Odyssey has the oil life indicator, and in similar use to the Accord, it calls for the oil change at around 5K, so I plan to use that for the Accord also. Actually 6 months, which will come first for the Accord.

    2 oil changes a year isn't going to break the bank!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Exactly...I drive what I thought to be a lot of highway (my average mileage on my 4-cylinder 2006 has been near 30 MPG). Turns out, my oil life meter read only 30% at 5,000 miles. I'd recommend everyone who doesn't have the maintenance minder get their oil changed at 5,000 (per severe service schedule).
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    This is why I make it a point to let the Honda Dealer perform all of the oil and filter changes. My dealer has an express oil and filter service, and the price is very reasonable. If there is ever a question about maintenace, in terms of a warranty claim, the dealer has all the records, and in the process I don't have to get under the car and drain the oil, and deal with the mess of clean-up and old oil disposal. Best regards. ------- Dwayne
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i have to agree with you. i personally don't find the price differential between the dealership and the local station to be that significant. tools, disposal, and TIME are factors against a DIY on Oil Changes.

    also i believe that regular maintenance performed at a dealership is an advantage if and when someone is looking at a "goodwill repair" scenario.

    also - i believe my dealership and their techs know more about my vehicle than oil change "chains" or local service stations. if something is truly wrong with the vehicle i have not noticed, i think there's better likelyhood of it being detected during regular service than at other locations (and like i said - that i didn't notice).

    i also desire to use OEM parts for Filters and Fluids.

    this is not to say i wouldn't bring a vehicle to an independant specializing in the make of vehicle(s) i drive. i have done so in the past.

    it's just that considering many factors, for me personally, the dealership is the way to go; plus i have established a relationship and trust with the dealership.
  • flaminioflaminio Posts: 20
    Just to be clear, I'm not talking about having Jiffy Lube or whatever. I'm talking doing it in my own garage. Why?

    Well, yes it is cheaper.

    Yeah, you have to take the time out of your saturday to do it, but you have to take time to go down to the dealer and wait, or deal with drop off/pick up. DYI is on your time schedule, an appointment is on the dealer's.

    I'm not saying everyone should do it, I'm not saying I'm going to do it. I'm asking if anyone has done it and ran into problems?
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    I change my oil at my local Shell station. I call ahead of time, first thing in the morning, and I'm done withing 15-20 minutes.

    I would NOT do it myself, simply because down the road, especially if you've purchased the extended warranty, those receipts from an established car-service shop (that I keep) are IMPORTANT, if not CRUCIAL.

    Why give Honda an excuse to deny coverage?

    Besides, I think if you read your manual (or the warranty book), it says there something about servicing your car at a Honda dealership OR at an accredited (or whatever terminology is used) car repair shop. Which really makes sense...
  • flaminioflaminio Posts: 20
    Actually it says if it do your own maintenance, keep records. It doesn't say service has to be done by a certified mechanic or at the dealer.

    Is this urban legend or has anyone been denied a warranty repair because they performed their own scheduled maintenance? Everyone seems really worried to touch their car.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I'm sure you can change your own oil without problems with the warranty. I used to do it all the time. I gave up when I bought my 95 Accord because I just couldn't get to the oil filter without putting it up on a lift or ramps. I'm spoiled now so I haven't even checked how accessible my 06 is.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    ....I gave up when I bought my 95 Accord because I just couldn't get to the oil filter without putting it up on a lift or ramps.

    ...I hear you, man. Especially when the local Honda dlr gets 28 American for oil/filter change.

    ...I'd appreciate some comments on the AIR Solara was a walk in the park to change.....
    but the AV6 6M coupe........I just don't know......

  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    "has anyone been denied a warranty repair because they performed their own scheduled maintenance?"

    -- I have not heard of such a situation, but it wouldn't be a surprise if an engine under warranty is destroyed, and Honda claims you didn't change the oil on time... I'd be more prudent and do oil changes at an established place, where I can get their official, dated receipts.

    The extra expense of NOT doing it myself is worth it.

    But that's me.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I hear you, man. Especially when the local Honda dlr gets 28 American for oil/filter change.

    Yikes. I pay $22 every time (economy serivce, not full) with my 10% off coupon; without it I think it's less than $24...$23.81 sounds like what I paid last time.

    Shop other dealers, you might find better prices.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Some Chrysler & Toyota owners have been burnt with a "sludge issue" and not being able to produce service receipts, because they performed their own oil & filter maintenance. I own an Accord and a Ford Mustang. I let the dealer do all the Oil and Filter service. If something happens, the service records are at the dealership. There is no "wiggle room" for both the dealer and / or the manufacturer! The warranty claim is straight forward. In addition, I also let the dealer do the brake, alignment and tire service. They give me great service, because they know I am a "full service customer". Sometimes when a problem comes up, and I am in need of immediate service, they make it a point to get me into the shop ASAP! I appreciate their concern and professionalism. ------ Best regards. --- Dwayne
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,735
    I do my own oil changes. When I go by the dealer I will get 5 oil filters, and some of the crush washers. This way when it's time to change my oil I already have what I need. I use synthetic oil, the dealer doesn't. I change the oil at 3,000 miles, not 5,000. The oil filter is really easy to get to on the 7th gen Accord V6 engine. I doubt if you can go to the dealer and get your oil changed, and be back home before I'm finished changing mine. As far as warranty goes, all they have to do is pull out the dipstick and look at the condition of my oil, to see it has been changed regularly. If something were to happen to my engine, I can guarantee you it won't be oil related. I also change my own transmission fluid every 15,000 miles. It doesn't cost much and I use Honda ATF-Z1. I figure this is cheap insurance against future problems. Paying the dealer to do this would cost a lot more.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You use synthetic oil and change it every 3,000 miles?????? Isn't that overkill?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yeah it is, since the engine is designed to run a minimum of 5,000 "severe" miles on regular oil.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yeah it is, since the engine is designed to run a minimum of 5,000 (or, at min, 3,750) "severe" miles on regular oil.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,735
    Well since I do it myself, it's probably not costing me any more than someone to takes there car to some shop to get a simple oil change. I found that if I waited longer than 3,000 miles with conventional oil it would start to turn brown (darker color). So I'm going to try this, and see if it stays cleaner longer. To me brown oil means build-up in my engine. I'm going to prevent that, if I can.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,735
    A lot of people on this forum, and others, are asking questions they already have the answers to. When you have a question, the first thing to do is look it up in the Owner's manual. If you really want to get intimate with your car, go to and get a service manual. It has all the details. If you want to do some maintenance or repair work on your own car, it can save you plenty. Link below
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Posts: 268
    I agree. The Helm's manual is very good. Don't be shocked by the cost. Just consider that one visit to the dealer knowing nothing cost at least $75 or so.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Remember the "Owner's Manual" is written by the manufacturer of the vehicle. They have some "hidden agendas" when they write this document, such as EPA mileage numbers, and cost of over all operation. (You would never read that the owner of the vehicle should warm-up the engine on VERY cold mornings. The manufacturer claims that this practice will do harm to the engine, but it will also consume fuel, and drive down their mileage numbers. So where is the truth?)----- Many people on this board like to give their Hondas TLC in terms of care, so they will change their oil and filter more frequently than stated in the owner's manual. This does not translate into either the owner, or the factory being wrong, but rather, it is just the preference of the individual owner. The owner's manual is just a guide. ------- Best ragards. ---- Dwayne
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Posts: 268
    Keep in mind, the Service manual is a different animal. In fact, people who hold your opinion can really benefit from it. I wonder would it cost you more to wreak the engine or to warm it up a couple of minutes? Really cold mornings can do real havoc.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,735
    I think this is why Honda hasn't jumped on the remote start craze. It is not a good idea to start the engine, and let it sit and idle for 15 minutes, with the heat on full blast. Why? because first, you don't want the engine to stay at the same rpm that long, and second you don't want to have the heater taking all the heat away from the cold engine, and therefore taking longer to warm up. You should let the engine idle for only a minute or two. And go easy on the heater at start up, to help the engine warm up quicker.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    .....The owner's manual is just a guide. ------- Best ---- Dwayne

    ....I guess nothing is really set in stone these days....

    ..but I don't see DIY air filter service addressed in the OM........ Am I missing something? this difficult??? (predecessor to my AV6 6M - Solara - was DIY duck soup.........)

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,735
    Checking the air filter is pretty simple. Loosen the four bolts, lift up the top of the box, remove the air filter. The OM doesn't have a lot of maintenance procedures in it. If you want to do the maintenance yourself, you need to get a service manual. You can get the one the Honda techs use from Helm. (Link below). About $70, or you can get one from Advance Auto, or Autozone (chilton's or Haynes) for a lot less. I always get one for every car I own, even if it's just for the information. J3P6M8GCXCR585XG7
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    ..4 bolts, lift and replace...

    cool. and tks for the link too..

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,395
    I would recommend the Helm manuals for their completeness and their accuracy. The others tend to leave out things and clump years together in their descriptions.

    Check on Ebay for "used" manuals. The mechanics probably buy the electronic version of the manual operating from their LAN server in the dealership-or an up-to-the-day version on the network from Honda. But DVDs are out there for sale-cheaper than paper version from Helm. But I have bought Helm for all cars I've owned other than a couple that were enough like previous versions I didn't need the new one.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • seniorjoseseniorjose Posts: 277
    Remote Honda dealer installed one for great...even heats up the seats if the selector switches were left in the Lo or Hi position. If you leave the defroster on, then the windshield ice is also melting when you get in the car. Iowa sure gets cold in the winter.

    Honda heats up much faster than my Ford Escape when remote start is used on both. It's been many years when the heater had to be off to help heat up the car takes care of it now...also makes your car easy to find in a parking lot...if you leave the light switch on...voila...there she is!

    In the summertime, your auto will be cooled down by the time you get into it!

    Any engines using the CVT transmission stay at the same RPM anyway no matter what you do to the throttle.

    I was a bit negative on Remote Start until I put it on my last two vehicles. It's also a nice way to leave your auto running when you stop into a store...keeps the heat or cold where you want is becoming a nice comfort feature. To me it is a nice feature.
  • suzeessuzees Posts: 22
    Ok... I just bought an '06, 4cylinder, EX-L accord. I've put 240 miles on it, and now I notice an intermittent rattle somewhere in the dash on the passenger side. I thought it might be the speaker. I turned off the audio, and it still does it.

    Anyone else have this? Any comments would be appreciated.

  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Check the GLOVE compartment and especially it's door. Several here (including me) have been noticing some rattle originating from there on the '05 model.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,735
    Yes, it could be something inside the glove box. It was a tire guage that was doing it to me
  • suzeessuzees Posts: 22
    well only having my car for 4 days, i only have my booklets in there.
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