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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    no problem...both posts were off topic from either side, that's all I'm saying. There are better topics to knock that back and forth.
  • jjj4500jjj4500 Posts: 5
    Problem fixed!!! Honda service found the ABS brake lines mounted to close to the firewall. When the ABS system is initialized it caused a vibration in the brake line and a few different noises.

    Brackets that support the brake lines tightened down and brake lines are far enough away from other parts, so there are no more clunks.
  • Thanks for your message. Unfortunately, I don't believe my squeaking is due to humidity or cold brakes. In fact, my first braking of the day will not squeak. It's only after I have hit the brakes a few times tht it'll do it. After it squeaks, it continues to do so whenever I hit the brakes.

    In other words, after I have already hit the brakes say 4 times on my drive to work, I'll hear it squeak. I drive about 1/5 of a mile, hit the brakes, another squeak.

    You are right that certain brands squeak more than others. The squeaking is annoying, but my concerns are more about safety and wear. The car still stops nicely and straight. I was told by the dealer that the pad life looks good and that the rotars look good. If it's just an annoying squeaking and nothing more, then I'm okay. Just wanted to make sure that I'm not missing anything.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    In general, brake noises i.e. squeeks, squeals etc...dust on wheels...low rotor life can be blamed on the elimination of asbestos from the composition of brake pads. Asbestos was actually a pretty good pad material but I understand the need to do away with it. A self employed mechanic friend of mine has more than once made the comment about customers complaining about short rotor life span as compared to years ago when asbestos was used. I think this may be true. I guess we must live with OSHA and safety concerns about many consumer products that may not be quite as good as they once were before some material was deemed unsafe and replaced with a less efficient, but safer, one.
  • cf2cf2 Posts: 2
    I bought a Honda Accord 2006, six days ago and it vibrates and rides terrible. I'm having trouble with the dealer doing much about it. They claim this is how they ride and that all cars have a vibration in their steering wheel. I cannot believe that. My 2001 didn't have it and it never had a problem with anything. Can anyone tell me what to do?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The steering wheel in my new 2006 is smooth as butter, and has been since I got it (now have 4,400 miles).

    Try another dealer is the only thing I can suggest.
  • geraldp1geraldp1 Posts: 14
    Yeah Johnny,
    My black 04 with 15000 mi has the same chipping defect as yours & looks as you described it. Those "skunk's at Honda headquarters would never admit they have manufacted thousands of Honda's with a paint defect which is actually a sub surface eruption. I've gone round & round with them. Those with these paint problem's should file a complaint with the FTC. It's better than crying in your beer.
  • jhinscjhinsc Posts: 399
    I bought my 06 EX V6 nearly 3 weeks ago and I don't have a problem with vibrations or the ride. The ride is a bit on the stiff side, but it has an almost BMW quality to it where it's not harsh.

    The first thing to do is check the tire pressures, making sure they're not over inflated. Don't know what else to recommend, other than driving another 06 model just like yours to see if it rides and drives any different. :confuse:
  • tandy_13tandy_13 Posts: 43
    Same here. I now have over 6000 miles on my EX V6 over the last 4 months. The car does drive very well, I don't know about the BMW as I have never driven one!
    I agree the drive is a bit on the stiff side (I did drive a 06 Passat before I bought the Honda and the Passat did have a softer ride) but the stiffer ride is actually a better feel.
    Same goes for the stiffer steering wheel. But I think it is for the better only.
    Just my 2 pennies.
  • hnguyen1hnguyen1 Posts: 17
    I got a 06 LX V6 (4K miles). Sometimes when I'm climbing a pretty steep hill on the highway (CA 680North) at around 65mph, I notice a burning smell. It goes away as soon as I got to the top. Should I shift to D3 when I'm climbing? (I wonder if it's necessary since the car has the Grade logic control that's supposed to do it automatically) And what range of speed should I go while in D3? Thanks.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Your car is certainly clever enough to shift down to whatever it needs to when going uphill.

    Grade Logic is for down-shifting when you go DOWNHILL, not when climbing up.

    Maybe the burning smell is coming from OUTSIDE, not from your car?...
  • cf2cf2 Posts: 2
    I took my car to the dealer 2 days after I bought it and they said it had 40 air pressure so they changed the air pressure. They also said they were out of balance so they had to balance them to. We thought it was fixed and took it out on the highway and at 70mph it vibrated and rode terrible. Now they say they will put the tires that were on the 05's on my car and see if they ride better. My 2001 was a wonderful car, never rode bad, never had a vibration. The service manager tried to tell me all cars have a vibration. I don't think so. Especially a Honda.
  • hnguyen1hnguyen1 Posts: 17
    At first, I thought it was from other cars outside...but now I'm pretty sure it's from my car because sometimes there's no other cars around.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Grade Logic is for down-shifting when you go DOWNHILL, not when climbing up.
    No, check a brochure or a manual. It is to prevent gear-hunting when climbing grades as well.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    What I would do is on level ground, check my oil level.

    Then I suppose I'd purposefully go up a steep incline till I smelled the smell. I'd place the car in park and the emerg. brk on. Get out, open hood, and look for sources of fluid leakage from any resevoir. I suppose the same could be done with the engine off, but it's possible this only happens on incline with engine running, and pumps pumping. ;)
  • webby1webby1 Posts: 209
    I have both 06 V6 Accord and 04 330i....please do not compare these....they are not even close and will never be.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The Accord is the closest to the BMW out of its competitors (Camry, Sonata, Altima) with its ocmposed ride and spirited (relatively, remember) handling.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I have not driven a BMW, but I have driven an Accord. In the category of "poor man's sports sedan", I would say that VW Jetta and Ford Fusion beat the Accord (as did the old Ford Contour).
  • jhinscjhinsc Posts: 399
    I would agree with the Jetta, and don't know about the Ford Fusion since I would never consider it, but you've got to be kidding about the Ford Contour. My mother had one and it was a piece of junk from the get-go. :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    If it weren't for the lack of power in the Jetta that is competitve with most Accords, I'd agree. I've shopped GLI's, and not one in my area was under $27,000 the max for Accord's in my area, and the Jetta with 148 hp is just sad; less than the Taurus Vulcan V-6! With an engine that size, they should get at VERY least 160 hp.

    I can't say about the Fusion (haven't ridden in one), but I'd bet the Mazda 6 would be a little better than the Ford's softer springing and on that account.

    By "BMW-like" I meant more than just steering. I was referring to ride quality; it's firm but everything is muted properly, meaning where my old Accord bounces twice, the new one settles after one.

    The Contour? haha, good one.
  • snakehairsnakehair Posts: 120
    Had a V6 1996 Contour and it was in many ways better then the Accord. It had a manual tranny and I never worried about enough power in high gear. It had the same type of handling a the V6 Accord. Too much weight in the front. I thought the ride quality was better than I am getting in my '03 V6 EX-L Accord. I sold it to a co-worker and he still drives it daily now. I bought a van for an extended enlarged family and then the Accord. I miss the van and the contour for different reasons. After 2 and half years still are not positive Ilike the Accord.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    After 2 and half years still are not positive I like the Accord.

    Then why do you still have it? You can sell it for a LOT of money relative to what you would get for a Ford of the same age.

    Sell it and get something you like better.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    By "BMW-like" I meant more than just steering. I was referring to ride quality...

    As was I.

    ...and yes the contour!

    For instance right here on Edmunds in road test of the 1996 Contour they said:

    Automotive journalists have sung the praises of this anonymous looking sedan since its debut early in 1995, naming it to Top Ten lists of this or that for its tight handling, comfortable interior, and generally Teutonic demeanor... :P
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I've been in a 1998 (99?) Contour (while it was different from your 1996 style, it should be better, right?)

    Wrong. It had more noise and rattles (outside of normal operational sounds) than my snapper. It rode hard, not with a good balance in ride and handling as does the Accord. it was just plain choppy.

    That's just my opinion though, and it may very well be different from 96 to 98-99.

    I'd like to drive a Fusion, but can't seem to find the time with school keeping me busy.

    Speaking of; I have class at 2:00 CST, so I have to run!
  • alumiu90alumiu90 Posts: 7
    Need help from anyone. Own a Certified Used '04 Accord LX with 24k miles on it. I have since put 5k on it and within the past two months I have noticed an annoying creaking sound in both the Drivers Side and Drivers Rear Passenger windows develop. The passenger side is unaffected.

    Took it to my dealer, still under warranty, and they stated that they could not duplicate the noise, but it may be the window seals and if they lubricated them they would just dry out again within a few weeks. They never even offered to advise what lubricant or how to lubricate them so I could do on my own if I desired.

    Very frustrated as this noise is extremely annoying in an otherwise very nice quiet car. I have searched the board and I see references to this same issue, but no one has posted a fix. If anyone has a fix - PLEASE ADVISE


  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I strongly reccomend trying a different dealer if another is within decent driving distance.
  • bmr123bmr123 Posts: 60
    I had a post about 2 weeks ago about this issue. I have a 05 accord and my drivers side window creaks really badly and annoys me. The dealership sprayed some stuff and tighted the window which only lasted about 1 week then I noticed the noise again. I will be taking my care somewhere else once I get some more time in my schedule. I wonder if anyone has any ideas to help me
  • A tricky one, but with a fix. Cause of noise are window riser parts (inside door, behind panel) rubbing against each other. Noise is transmitted by the run channels to the glass, giving the misimpression that it's glass versus run channel causing the noise. Further making dealers change and/or lubricate run channels.

    They did exactly that to my wife's car, with the noise resurfacing a week later. While replacing the run channel, the tech also created a door ding from the inside (!).

    Anyhow, a DIY Accord owner discovered the fix - which was to secure the window riser parts -, took pics and posted same. That was way back in 04, and Google hasn't been able to locate that post for me.
  • sciman10sciman10 Posts: 6
    I bought a 2006 Honda Accord EX V6 last week and would like to add metal door edges, a spoiler on the trunk and sun-visor over the moonroof. I found a source for these Honda parts at a reasonable price on the internet and would like to put them on myself. According to the instructions mentioned on the net the installation of these items does not seem all that difficult. Am I making a mistake? Has anyone posting had experience installing these items? I am reasonably good with hand tools and do many of my own repairs on appliances, etc but don't want to miss up my moonroof or cause a trunk leak. What types of things should I be concerned with?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    I'd go with what atlantabenny said as far as the real cause/solution of your problems but I believe the preferred lubricant should you want to purchase it (it's handy to have around for various things) is called "shin etsu grease". Googling it will produce a large list of potential suppliers.

    good luck
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i will second that. if the source of the noise is the door/body seal, the shin etsu grease should help, and I think that can be determined by pulling on the door handle while driving. then again, i would imagine the door latch could be adjusted to make a door seal better to the body.

    but if the source of the noise is inside the door itself - that riser theory has legs.
  • Can anyone tell me what is a good aftermarket braking system that would include calipers and rotors, besides BREMBO. I can buy some stock calipers from dealer for $200.00 per and have them powdercoated red cheaper than a set of BREMBO's. If you can help me out I wound appreciate it. :shades:
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    One guy who tracks a car over at the hondasociety board (blasphemy I know) swears by bendix or brembo blanks and AEM or Hawk pads. He tends to like the brembos over the bendix pads (though not by much and this is on the track) and the Hawk pads over the AEMs. Most people on the tuner part of the board use AEM or Hawk pads, with the majority of people preferring the Hawks.

    Most people (not the Bling-ers) seem to be using simply good pads and larger rotors. They don't seem all that concerned with caliper upgrades. Though you can find people who want 4 piston calipers and whatnot, but there's a market for everything with some people I guess. Unless you are tracking the car, I don't see a reason for that, and even if you were I still doubt the benefit/cost ratio.

    Not sure that answers the question but maybe it'll give you some ideas.
  • jhinscjhinsc Posts: 399
    Aren't quality issues covered by warranty? Without a properly working computer module, the car won't pass emissions tests, so it should be covered by that specific warranty.

    I would contact the dealer service manager first to see if they'll rectify the problem for you. If you get nowhere, then contact the regional Honda service manager for help.
  • Purchased a 06 Accord EX-V6 with Navi March-13-06, the car will not fire up after 40+ miles(on odometer) of drive.

    It reads 6.4 mile when we first saw it, after test drive and brought it home. It refused to fire up, battery, starter are fine, it cranks powerfully just won't fire up.

    Chect the "flooding" section under owner manual's driving-start the engine if you ever got into this similar situation.

    Honda quality is going downhill....
  • I have an 04 Accord EX V-6. The weather strip around the driver door opening wore out on the right about halfway up between the top and bottom of the opening. The dealer replaced it and now 6 months later I have another split in the weather stripping in the same place. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there a way to prevent this? Does anyone know much it costs to replace this if it isn't under warranty?
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Posts: 268
    Hi. Just wondered if the flooding was a problem because of the way you started the car or if it's a defect that could happen anytime? Were you able to find out?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    It's not a design issue, it's being caused by a winter coat dragging against it when you get in the car.

    I've seen the same thing happen on other cars, not just Honda.

    Maybe a length of clear shipping tape applied just in the area that gets damaged? Something the allows your coat to slide over easier?

  • cgriggscgriggs Posts: 1
    Hello, the problem is this. The light bulb for the trunk light was taken out and left out for a while, maybe 6 months. I bought two brand new bulbs and replaced the bulb and it did not work. I checked some of the fuses that I thought might be the problem and they all looked good. Can anyone tell me the exact fuse to check that would be the root cause? If there is something else to check please let me know that also. FYI I have put both bulbs in the car.
  • Could it be a slightly misaligned door pressing too hard against the weatherstrip ? Combined with winter-hardened rubber, splitting becomes easier.
  • Possibly oxidized contact areas inside the socket. Spray WD-40 and wipe-dry; that might just do the trick.
  • ural9982ural9982 Posts: 4
    I have a Honda Accord 2003. A couple days ago my Check Engine light came on. But I have not seen any more specific changes. The car was driving perfectly. I delivered my car to the Honda dealer for diagnostics. They inspected it and them told me that during the testing process car Electronic Control Module was broken and I even can not start the car. They insisted that it was not their fault and the reason is just in poor quality of the module. They wanted me to pay about $700 to replace the module. I am wondering if they told me the truth. Is it possible that the module was broken exactly during the diagnostic procedure and dealership is not responsible for it?
  • dhh32dhh32 Posts: 4
    My two cents on fixing this annoying window creak problem. I have an 05 Accord Coupe and soon after purchase experienced two annoying creaking sounds. First was the driver's side windshield creak previously reported on this site. Fix required windshield to be reset (problem was cold-weather related). Drivers-side window creak was more problematic to both isolate and fix. Tired lubricants (didn't last long). Had window channels replaced per Honda service bulletin for this problem (fix lasted one week befor creaking returned). Creak can be silenced when window is rowed down a bit. After much work with local Honda Portland OR service reps, found problem wasn't the window at all, but rather the seal that goes around the door and body of door. After seals were replaced, no sound at all and still silent after three months. Replacing door/body seals should only take techs a half hour or so. Problem is a pain as noise is right against your ear. Goos luck with fix.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    call honda corporate (phone number on the website - or in the owner's manual which you don't have). you have no idea if what they are telling you is true. perhaps they did not use appropriate precautions before hooking up their instrumentation - perhaps even zapping something with excessive static build up.

    you brought it in, it was working, then they broke it while it was in the shop. i don't get how they could even ask you to pay for it with a straight face.
  • It is impossible to find the "better" Accord oil filter,PLM-A01, on Long Island. I know that the "other"
    Accord OEM filter is made by Fram in Canada, PLM-A02. There is a local parts dealer who stocks Denso filters and says that they are Accord OEM in Japan. I have the 120m EWC and do the oil/filters/tranny service myself. I keep excellent records and save and date the oil filters. I do not want any trouble if I need to use the EWC down the road.
  • 52hg52hg Posts: 1
    Don't know if it's the same module, but my '05 Accord 4 cyl. at 5,000 mi. just started having problems with the turn signals, wipers, and dashboard lights. The wipers won't intermittant or slow speed, the turn signals stop working, and the dashboard lights won't dim w/headlights on. Not what I'm used to with a Honda.
  • the first dealership told me that they had never received complaints of window creaks in an accord. Waving 8 pages of postings from Edmunds etc recieved the reply, thats the internet, not from Honda! finally they replaced my drivers run channel and lubed the body seal. I was also instructed to internally lubricate the door body seal with a dry graphite spray, which I finally found. The service receipt actually had printed "no known remedy".
    On a whim I took the accord to another dealer for an oil change last week and mentioned the creaking that had returned. The service manager said he had an 03 coupe and that they "all creaked an rattled"!. I showed him the plumers silicone that I bought at lowes and he showed me where to apply it. Where the innner edge of the top of the window touches the hard plastic seal, he pointed out rub marks! Honda used a hard plastic so you couldnt use a coat hanger to break into the car. Now I show a light film on the top 1/4 inch of the window glass, but quiet at last! You can also use the interior "son of a gun" type silicone but it doesnt last as long. Yes the body seals do creak, lube them, but the more annoying noises come from the window seal.I await feedback of others result in examining the seals for rub marks and their remedys.I was ready to trade my car..............
  • dhh32dhh32 Posts: 4
    See my posting above. I went through the same exercise as include using 1/4 inch foam at top of window tracks to silence creaking. All lubrication/foam insert applications served only to soften noise, not correct the problem. For my 05 Accord, it came down to replacing the door striping (also replaced door seal but I think the real culprit is the body door seal). Body seal often does not sit properly against plastic door striping you cited. Pressing down on plastic you can hear slight creak. Creaking sound many hear at window is being transmitted from body to door to window; seals not doing adequate job of isolation. Be adamant and get your dealer to REPLACE door/body seals. That did the trick for me and its been three months with no creaks, even over severe bumps. Great not having to use messy grease, foam inserts, etc. See if it works for you. Good luck.
  • could you please define 1)door striping 2) body seal and 3) door seal?
  • presleypresley Posts: 6
    I have a '04 Accord LX and somehow, a plastic card was dropped into the tiny crack by the emergency brake. I can see the card by looking through the tiny crack. Would having the card there affect the performance of the car? Would it mess up my transmission or emergency brake over a period of time? How can I get it out? It is laying flat toward the bottom right side by the emergency brake, cup holders area. Thanks for your help! :confuse: ">
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