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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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  • dhh32dhh32 Posts: 4
    njsurfboat:
    Body door seal is the large rubber/foam seal surrounding the body where it meets the door. Its a large seal and can be pulled out easily. Suspect this seal is the real problem. Door seal is the rubber seal running around the door itself. This seal should meet against the body door seal and both serve isolate body vibrations. Plastic strips are the plastic pieces you refer to, they are located on outer top portion of doors and seal door against water. Replacing the rubber/foam seals shouldn't take your service department more than half an hour to an hour. Seals will have to be ordered so they will take a few days to get in. This fix worked while replacing window channels failed (Portland Techs were going to report success to Honda Tech as this problem is not that infrequent and its a real problem for techs to fix...hence all of the fixes/messages on this problem).
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    There isn't anything down there that the card should effect. If it did make it's way by the emengency brake mechanism, it mose likely would just tear or bend if it got in the way.

    I have removed consoles out of cars, and you would not believe the junk, (and sometimes $$)that works it's way down there.

    Mrbill
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    I would go after the card with a piece of tape and a length of cardboard. insert the tape first till you are down past the top of the card with the sticky side facing the card. As soon as it binds up, stop. now put in the piece of cardboard and apply pressure to the portion of the tape that made it past the top of the card.

    pull on the tape carefully. retrieve the card. ;)
  • I am considering the purchase of a new Accord sedan (EX, 2.4L) and would appreciate any input from owners who have experienced brake rotor warping on this or other recent model years. My concern stems from the fact that I have had continual warping issues with my 2001 Accord v6 coupe. After 125K miles and several regrinds and replacements (beginning at 15K), honda still refuses to recognize this as a defect issue. Please advise if you have had similar problems on a newer model.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    No problems ever out of 3 Accords ('03, '05, '06 [all EX, 2.4L]) with combined mileage of 80,000 on the three of them. I have experienced warped brake rotors in my 1996 LX, but it's due to a wreck in which I clamped on the brakes HARD for an extended period (The policeman measured my skidmark at 80 ft...before I ate guardrail (No ABS stnrd back then!)). They are still warped, I never bothered having them fixed since the wheel only vibrates when slowing on an off-ramp or from above 55 MPH. (Currently at 158,000 miles, too, so I can't see investing a lot of $ into that car).
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Posts: 53
    Have an '05 coupe with a little over 20K miles - no problems with brakes or rotors so far. Had a right rear strut replaced because of constant squeaking over bumps, but other than that, it's been a good car.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    Brake warping in any vehicle is usually caused by the type of driving... i.e., the driver. One major cause is heavy braking from high speeds followed by splashing through standing water. That is, excessive overheating followed by very fast cooling.

    Moderate braking will extend the life of all components of the braking system.
  • awworkerawworker Posts: 5
    Just purchased a 2003 Honda Accord ex 2.4l My question is: when using the windshield washers( after putting in the fluid) it immediately drains out thru the passenger side onto the ground. I cannot locate the pump seems to be inside the lower framework. Leaks out within a few seconds. Any suggestions? Is this something I can fix myself? Thanks Steve
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    You'll have to fish the bottle out and see what's up. Either it's cracked at the seam or the washer pump seal is bad.
  • 96accord96accord Posts: 20
    I have a 2004 Accord LX. I wanted to know how to get rid of the maintenance required light and cabin filter replacement instructions.
    Thanks in Advance

    Paul
  • awworkerawworker Posts: 5
    Thanks for the quick reply. I don't think the bottle is cracked because the leak is more troward the rear of the engine compartment under the front of the passenger door. Can I get to the pump and if so how?
  • presleypresley Posts: 6
    Thanks for the great idea!
  • presleypresley Posts: 6
    Thanks for the quick response!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have a 2004 Accord LX. I wanted to know how to get rid of the maintenance required light.

    The steps are provided in your owners manual (it involves turning the car to "on" without cranking, then holding the mileage reset button for 10 seconds, I think).

    If many owners would read their owners manual, they could answer a lot of questions, and even learn some extra features of their car (not just picking at YOU 96accord, lots of people do that (or don't do that).
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if you put the washer fluid in and without activating the system it flows out, it could be a cracked bottle, or possibly, the hose has slipped off from the pump. hard to say.

    pop the hood again. when you pour fluid into the resevoir, does it immediately go to the ground?

    i believe the resevoir and pump is up near the front, probably accessible by removing the plastic shielding in the front passenger wheel well. you might see with the wheel turned sharply to the right if you can gain access to that area.

    if it pours out when the system is operated, have someone else activate the washer as you look at the system in the engine compartment. if your "leak" is at the back of the compartment (, then i wager you have a problem with the hose going from the pump along the passenger side of the engine compartment then to the top of the hood. it will come up to a "T", and split to both nozzles, but that is "hidden" by the sound / heat insulation which is attached to the hood. is it even connected to the short segments and the "T" in the hood? my guess is it slipped off there.

    or, it could have one of the segments from the "T" not connected to it's nozzle.

    or, it could have the hose broken where it generally is connected near the back of the fire wall on a tiny hose hanger before making its way to the hood.

    when someone else activates it with you looking, you'll know right where it's leaking right away. this is a two person exercise because you can't activate the washer and look at the system under the hood at the same time.

    if you are a DIY person and the problem is behind the insulating material, i'd pull some of the plasic fasteners on the passenger side so i could get to the hose and re-connect it where it's slipped off.

    if it's broken at the point where the hanger is located, a simple coupler should do the trick. maybe a pet supply store: think aquarium hoses and all those cool tiny seascape things that put air into the water. they probably have couplers if the dealership doesn't.

    or consider this...this is a relatively "minor" repair (probably). after you locate the leak, i'd bring it to a dealership and strike up a conversation with the service writer or manager (they want your future business).

    tell them you've just purchased the car used, you've located the leak, and want to know if the parts department has the stuff to quickly fix it. he might do it for you for next to nothing...
  • Does anyone have any info on Denso oil/air filter? OEM
    Honda in Japan???????
    Thanks
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 40,905
    is run up into the cowling. No little nostrils on the hood.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    thought I was in the Odyssey forum when I made my post. what a waste of effort. Oooops. ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    argghh! I dont' know on that car, sorry.
  • awworkerawworker Posts: 5
    Thanks Guys for the info. Here's a stp by step scenario of what I did(1) filled bottle and waited for it to run out. It didn't(2) asked my daughter to start the washer.(3)after not more than 3 secondsI could see the fluid being sucked out of the bottle and see it draining under the front passenger side and onto the ground(4) i put the car up on ramps to try and see the pump, I looked every where underneath but could not locate the pump or any line running to the pump. I thought maybe I could take the inside wheelwell off but I haven't had the time. Thanks
  • That's a nice car!
    Dropping a card in the crack by the emergency brake won't mess things up.
    Your husband is probably pretty knowledgable about these things. He can help you. ;)
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    ....cabin filter replacement instructions.

    ..checking www.driveaccord.net/forums should provide the most cogent guidance for cabin air filter replacement....

    ..best, ez..
  • df5ctrddf5ctrd Posts: 3
    What color are the seat warmer light switches on the 2003 Accord coupe? This is when you turn on the headlights. The reason why I ask is that both the driver & passenger seat warmer light switch bulbs went out and I can't remember what color they were originally. I'd think they're probably orange since the rest of the instrument panel is orange, but not 100% sure. If anyone has an answer, pls let me know. Thanks!
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    2004's are amber.
  • awworkerawworker Posts: 5
    Thanks user 777 these diagrams may be just what I need to get this fixed.
  • kanukanu Posts: 19
    My accord is 2005 LX Auto 4cyc at 9500 miles. I notice today that when I try to accelerate, the car did not response by downshift as fast as it did before.

    Does this the problem? I heard somehow that new transmission could learn the driver's driving style. Does Accord has this capability? If so, it might be a case because I switched car with my wife in the last two week. She always drive slow.

    Thanks,
  • wtliao321wtliao321 Posts: 35
    You were very lucky to get the problem fixed. And the dealer you went is really helpful.

    I had a bad experience about my 05 EX-V6. It ended up with trading in 05 Accord after 6 months (12K miles) and get 07 Camry XLE V6. There was a similar problem on my '05 EX V6 when I accelerated from 1500rpm to 2300rpm, noise and vibration came from engine which really bugged me. At 55mph, (1500rpm), the gas pedal vibrated. The vibration and noise didn't come out until the engine reaches the normal temperature. I wend to dealer 3 times, and both service manager and their technician test drove with me they all claimed it is normal. Service manager claimed that's the characteristic of Honda V6 engine and told me there was nothing they could do.

    I am very disappointed about this car in terms of its engine and tranny problem. Comparing to 07 Camry, it did give me more fun to drive. However, unlike Accord's rough ride, Camry indeed is quite and smooth. I enjoy it now.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The transmission is not an "adaptive" transmission, to the best of my knowledge. Maybe you got accustomed to her car for those two weeks?

    Just thinking out loud here.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    It really depends on what you expect of your car.

    In the past 10 years I have been driving 3 Camrys and 2 Accords.

    The Accord (as many of Honda's other models) has always been built more SPORTY, it's louder, has more road noise, stiffer suspension, younger in spirit.

    The Camry (even more with the Avalon) has always been a more REFINED car, smoother, softer and more quiet, more "American", older in spirit.

    Each to his own.
  • I was thinking about installing a EBH in my wife's new 06 Accord SE. It is a great piece of tech. but my 91 Turbo
    Supra still gets the garage treatment. I see that this component is aviable for the Ody,Pilot, CRV, Ridgeline and
    Element but not the Accord. Why?????
    Thanks
    kodachrome56
  • crankkycrankky Posts: 45
    My 2004 Accord EX Sedan has been making a very disturbing grinding brake sound for a couple of months now. The car only has 16,000 miles on it.

    I hear the sound for the first 3 or 4 brakings after the car has been parked for a while. Now, this is NOT squealing or squeeking. This is grinding, like when your brake pads are worn out and grinding into the rotors. It 'seems' to be worse when the weather/brakes are cold. Wetness does not seem to have anything to do with it. I am aware that a light coating of rust can accumulate on rotors when the car is parked. However, I've never hear this kind of sound before. Once I've braked a few times the noise goes away.

    Of course, the dealer says the brakes are fine, and one of the service techs actually rode with me and said that it is 'normal' and that all of the Honda's do that because the pads are crap. Maybe, but it didn't make that noise when I bought the car new.

    Any ideas what might be causing this noise?
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Posts: 53
    Don't worry about the noise - it's totally normal to have that happen after the first 3 or 4 brakings. Chances are it *is* just rust buildup on the rotors. Same thing happens on my accord, as well as the front discs on my old '98 Corolla and my parent's '04 Odyssey. You should hear my car after I've left it at the airport for a week or two. It's a grindfest from the airport parking lot until I get to the highway.

    The pads shouldn't make the grinding noise - the rust buildup on the rotors being, well, literally ground off by the pads makes the noise.

    Unless I'm way off, I believe you're a-ok.
  • crankkycrankky Posts: 45
    I hope you're right. It didn't make that noise when I bought the car, or else I wouldn't have bought it. Squeaking I can handle. But this sounds just like worn out pads grinding into the rotors. You can even feel it through the brake pedal.
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    Have another mechanic or dealer check your brakes. This is NOT normal.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I disagree...Grinding of the brakes on the first 1/2 mile or so is normal, especially after a car wash or heavy rain (the next day). Every single 2003+ model Accord our family has owned has done this. All were EXs, 2003, 2005, and my 2006. It usually doesn't do it more than three or so times, right? Mine will do it hours after I wash it (after wetting the brakes), about the length of my 20 yard driveway, and at the stop sign at the end of my street, and then no more. Don't worry, this is normal, and we experienced it in three different instances. Dad's current car has 42,000 miles on the brakes, with no problems; it grinds EXACTLY like you explain. Mine does it when parked outside and a dew/frost occurs, too.
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    I have 32k miles on my 04 EX-V6 and I have NEVER experienced the kind of brake grinding that is described in this thread. It gets washed, rained on, "dewed" on and the only sound I ever hear is the ABS check at initial start up.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    That's interesting. All of ours (since 2003, I don't remember on our 2001 LX Acord or previous, although my 1996 doesn't do it. It's not a problem and hasn't posed as a safety issue, so we don't worry about it (and trust me, Dad is ultra-picky about his car)! I haven't felt the ABS checkup in my new 06, and I expected that I would. Maybe I can't feel it? Just curious. How early into the drive/motor running does it do it. 2 sec? 10 sec? Just wondering. Thanks for a reply.
  • We have just purchased a 2006 Accord. The only thing is that the gear shift knob is hard to depress and to a lesser extent the shifter is a little hard to move forward and back for a female. Can the gear shift knob be loosened up at all? How about how the shifter moves back and forth? Thanks.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    The ABS checks itself at a certain SPEED, not time. Usually about 8-10 mph, but sometimes at 15 mph....

    The fact you haven't heard it is just another example how this thing is so "arbitrary"... There are days when I can feel a real "click" and other days just a faint one, and then days when it's not noticeable at all... Same happens with our other car... My old '95 Accord didn't do it at all, though it actually DID test the ABS (the ABS light came on when it was faulty), but it was totally unnoticeable.
  • hondalovahondalova Posts: 189
    I have a 2004 EX V-6 Coupe (manual, if it matters) with 45,000 miles. I am getting a plastic on plastic sounding clunk coming from the driver's dash area when going over bumps or rough pavement. At first, I thought it was right below the gauge binnacle b/c it seemed that pressing on the flat bottom of the gauge opening stopped the noise. However, my mechanic took the plastic cover off the dash binnacle and could find nothing amiss inside. Could it be something in the steering wheel or column (like Airbag clock spring or some other part)?

    Ideas, thoughts, suggestions would be welcome - this is really annoying.

    -FS :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Gotcha. Is that the "pop" I can kind of hear/feel sometimes? Our old 1993 EX made a whine kind of noise every time. Now in my 2006, I occasionally notice a pop when I initially hit the brake when backing out of a parking spot or garage. I guess thats it and I didn't even know it.

    Thanks,

    thegrad
  • flaminioflaminio Posts: 20
    Hi all. I understand this can be a bit of a controversial subject, but I was wondering about changing oil during the "break-in" period? I looked through the manual and it specifically says don't change the oil before the first scheduled maintenance. Is it known that Honda uses some kind of special break-in oil? If so, what is it?

    Also, I was wondering if there was a chart of Honda's recommended maintenance schedules? I've got the 4 cylendar engine. I got a fold out brochure from the dealership, but it appears to be their own "recommended" maintenance. I'm wondering what the official schedule is from Honda for normal and sevear driving. I didn't see any in the manuals.

    According to the dealership, the first oil change is at 3750 miles. I've always heard it's a good idea to change around 600. I understand this might be outdated wisdom, but just curious if there's a reason to NOT change it early.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The "special" oil in the new car's engine (i have a 2006 also) needs to stay in the car until (and not before) the regularly scheduled maintenance (5,000 miles or so). It helps capture the little bits and flecks of metal floating in the engine from the new castings.

    There is now no-longer a "schedule" to follow, with the new mainetance minder that tells you when you should get it done (15% Oil Life Remaining). If you want, you can go by the 2005's schedule (before the Oil Life Monitor was integrated) and change it at 5,000 miles for the "severe" schedule (which most people fit into), and 10,000 miles for the "Normal" schedule (which few people do - All Highway, gentle driving).

    Use the Maintenance Minder as a guide. I just had my first oil change at 5,000 miles (per the old 2005 schedule), but now I'll go by the minder, since I still registered at 30% Oil Life when I took it in at 5,000 miles. I'll probably not ever go past 7,500 miles, though.
  • flaminioflaminio Posts: 20
    So who should I believe? The dealer's chart or the computer? The dealer is telling me every 3750 miles, which is sooner than Honda's Severe schedule. Oil is one thing, but I'm wondering about the other fluids/maintenance too.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    For oil, every Accord since 2003 on the severe schedule is supposed to go at 5,000 miles (or 10k on normal). It USED to be 3,750, just as my 1996 LX Accord is.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    First oil change at around 3,750.

    Then every 5,000 -- or according to what you read on the dashboard. Either way you can't go wrong.
  • jhinscjhinsc Posts: 399
    Why make it harder on yourself? Just have the oil changed when the maintenance minder tells you to. Honda has made it so simple, you can't go wrong unless you ignore it. :shades:
  • flaminioflaminio Posts: 20
    Really, the oil change is only part of the problem. The dealer's maintenance is much more aggressive than the 2005 Honda and apparently what the maintenance minder will say. So when I go in, they're going to say time to do your coolant, and I'll either let them or guess when the minder will go off. It would suck if I say no, then have it go off the next week.

    I'm frustrated at the dealers own maintenance schedule, and since there's nothing in the manual, I have nothing to reference.
  • I haven't visit this forum for a while, and now, I'm surprise that there're still people believe in the dealer's maintenance schedule.

    Just look at the price of an oil change at the dealership, compare to the oil change at an independent garage. Oil change = more than 50% of the dealer service department's profit, and they want you to change the oil as frequent as possible. Heck, if they have a way to convince everyone, they would have told everyone to change their oil every 5 or 10 miles :D . Also, most others service besides oil change = inspection or top off fluid (which you can do it yourself).

    If you want to know the correct schedule, ask those who build the car (i.e. the manual). For my old Accord (02), I change oil every 4000 -> 5000 miles, or every 4 -> 5 months. And for the new Accord (06), I follow the oil life reminder. For the first oil change, I follow the oil life reminder too. I think it will do more harm than good if you change out the special break in oil too soon.
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