Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

dsharma75

Friends,

Just moved to PA 6 months back. The car which is made in USA, is a 2006 Canadian accord SE v-4 automatic.

Question is:

Q1 My honda dealer in Canada was adding semi- synthetic 5w-20 oil as recommended by Honda Canada. The dealer in USA when he serviced my car 2 months back is adding normal 5w-20 oil. Is the engine going to be in a shock after changing from Semi-syntheic to normal oil. Bot the oil are recommended by Honda Canada.

Q2.Is my maintainence minder going to take care of the change in oil?

Q3. Any one knows if I can buy extended warranty in USA on my Canadian accord.(either from Honda USA or private).Pl suggest....I do not have any warranties at this time....

ds

elroy5

Don't think you have to worry about the oil. If you get the extended warranty from Honda, there is less chance you'll have a problem getting service with it. This link may be helpful with the warranty question.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f0eea50.ef0eeb7/1336

user777

This may help:

I have an '02 LX 4DR. Passenger Side, there is a fuse box on the right side of the dash which I can access with the passenger door open. If I pull the 10A fuse labled "Small Lights", the chime does not ennunciate when leaving the lights on. :P

Try inspecting / inserting / replacing (as necessary) that fuse on your '04. Look in your owner's manual for location and current rating of your fuse labeled "Small Lights"... :shades:

exshoman

Well, I asked the service adviser that question, and he said it would be covered under the drivetrain warranty.

However, because a bad MAF sensor would throw emissions out of whack, I still think this would be covered by the emissions warranty mandated by the federal gov't. Thought this was 10 yeears/100K. Hopefully, I'll never find out.

elroy5

I don't think there is a fuse box on the passenger side of an 04.

stickguy

I should know this for sure, owing 2 - 2005 Hondas (Accord and Odyssey), but I think the 5/60 PT piece wasn't added until 2006 model year. The '05s have just the 3/36 BtoB.

elroy5

You're right. The powertrain warranty was only 3/36 until 06.

thegraduate

I'll second that, for confirmation. My aunt's 2005 Odyssey is 3/36k, my 2006 Accord is 5/60k.

user777

Ahh, thanks for the tip, yes, specially since the re-design in '03 maybe that box has been moved or redesigned away from that location. Not owning an '04, I can't be sure where to tell the poster to look for this fuse...

So the poster is going to have to look in the manual and locate the position of ALL fuse boxes and determine if one has a fuse labeled "Small Lights". Hopefully, it's easy to to identify and it's the source of the problem.

tankbeans

I took a peak in my manual for my 03 and barring the manufacturers moving them to a different place partway through the generation or having them in a different place depending on the trim level, which I don't think is likely, the fuse labeled small lights is located in the under-hood fuse/relay box. I looked at the skim or the locations of all the fuses and the small lights is a 15 amp fuse 4th from the bottom in a straight line of 7, I don't know if they are labeled on the car or just in the manual, but if they are the small lights fuse is number 4. If the OP has his manual, I hope he does and it's the same or similar to mine the drawing is on page 383. Otherwise I'm at a loss for advice.

Today I also peaked under the hood to find it and I believe it is located between the cabin-side of the engine and the air-filter. I could be wrong or they could be in different locations depending on the trim, I'm unsure on that one.

I hope this helps somewhat, as I was bored at 2 in the morning and decided since I had an hour to kill for 'lunch' that I'd read my manual. Talk about bored stiff.

user777

i think reading your manual is a good thing.

actually, now I think we have the OP calibrated.

after all this, if the OP's problem isn't the "small fuse", i'm gonna be sad.

tankbeans

I do that to everybody. If I'm in their car for any reason for a long time I go and read their manual. I guess I'm just weird. I hope it's just an easy fix for his sake. Working from 10pm-7am is rough because nobody's awake to even spend lunch with and do something other than sit there.

I'd try yanking that fuse on my car to test out the theory, but I don't want to be a guinea pig. Everything is working well.

silveraccord1

Hi,
I have a '03 Accord. Several hundred miles before hitting the 64,000 mark, the orange "Maintenance Req'd" light would flash a few times and disappear when I started my car.
About 20 or 30 miles (maybe?) before hitting 64,000 the maintenance light would instantly appear and remain on the dashboard upon startup.

I just took the car into the shop several weeks ago to have a punctured oil filter replaced. I was also due for an oil change, which the shop took care of.

Is this light indicative of an actual problem or is it just a routine reminder for maintenance once my car hits said mileage mark?

Thanks!

elroy5

This light does not indicate a problem with your car (that would be the check engine light). It will flash when you turn the key on (at a pre-determined mileage interval) to remind you to do the required maintenance on your car. Then if it is not reset, it will stay on constantly a couple thousand miles later. To reset the light, hold the trip odometer button down (with your left hand), turn the key to on (II position, no need to start it), continue to hold the button down for 10 seconds or until the light goes out. The instructions for resetting the light are in the owner's manual, if my instructions don't do the trick for you. Good luck

char23

I have been changing my oil at 30% (per the maintance minder) instead of the recommended 15%. I just realized that additonal codes are given besides the oil change (i.e. air filter, tire rotation, etc). As I reset the indicator I am not sure if I missed any required maintenance.

My 2007 accord has 22,000 miles on it. I have given her 3 oil changes and tire rotations and nothing else. My maintance minder is currently at 30% (I am going to wait until 15% as advised).

My question is what maintance (if any) did I miss? My guess is only the air filter. Is there any way to retroactively determine what I missed? What would you do in my situation?

Any input would be appreciated! Thanks

bvdj84

Don't Panic! Its not a big deal, you can reset the minder by looking in your manual, and it will give you steps to reset it, when you change your oil. Its not to big of a deal. My dealer tried keeping me on the minder system, but it is rather too soon for the maintance they say is needed. So I reset it myself.

exshoman

Well, what you could do, since you're not using the MM for oil changes, is not reset the MM until it trips, that way you could be sure that you're not missing any maintenance other than oil changes, which you're doing on your own schedule. If it just calls for an oil change or other stuff you've already done, then just reset it. If it calls for something that you've not done, such as change anti-freeze, then have that maintenance done. That way you shouldn't miss anything.

Other option is to use the 2005 maintenance schedule (should be able to find on the web).

If I recall correctly, on my 2006 accord (with about 31K miles), my MM goes off at about every 6K miles. I believe it went as follows:
6K - A1
12K - B1
18K - A1
24K - B2
30K - A1

Main Code What It Means
A Replace just the engine oil.
B Replace the engine oil and the oil filter, rotate the tires, inspect the front and rear brakes, check the parking brake adjustment, and inspect several other items listed in the O/M.

Sub-code What It Means
1 Rotate the tires.
2 Replace the air cleaner element, check the drive belt, and replace the dust and pollen filter.
3 Replace the transmission fluid and transfer fluid (if equipped).
4 Replace the spark plugs, replace the timing belt (if equipped), inspect the water pump, and inspect valve clearance.
5 Replace the engine coolant.
6 Replace the rear differential fluid (if equipped).

thegraduate

On my 2006 Accord I've only had oil and oil filter changes and tire rotation done so far. I get about 7500 miles before my minder goes off. I currently have 28000 or so miles on the car with 30% oil life remaining. 4-cyl, auto.

daksund

i have a 2003 accord lx AT about 50,000 miles. just 2 weeks ago we noticed hardness on shifting gears. we can still shift it but not as smooth as before. we just refill the transmission oil a week ago (on thelow end). any suggestion or comments will be highly appreciated.

elroy5

Since how dirty an air filter gets depends largely on how dirty the air is where you drive, how does the MM system know when the air filter needs to be replaced? I take my filter out at every other oil change, and check it visually. If the MM system goes by mileage and rpm alone, I don't see how that could be very accurate. The old method (mileage/time intervals schedule) the manual says to change the air filter at 15k miles (instead of 30k) in dusty conditions. How does the MM system know when there is dusty conditions?

thegraduate

Beats me. Probably just uses the old "normal" timeframe.

thegraduate

Please tell me you used only Honda transmission fluid. If you used a substitute, you've likely caused yourself a problem.

elroy5

So at 28k miles your air filters (cabin/engine) have not even been looked at? I hope you don't live in a dusty area. That would concern me a bit.

elroy5

Do you mean it is hard to move the shift lever, or that the transmission shifts harsh while driving? When you say "we can still shift it" do you mean you are shifting an automatic manually? Kind of confusing. :confuse: Please clarify.

thegraduate

I don't - I live in Birmingham, AL (no nearby forest fires, heavy industry, mines, etc). My last air filter in my 1996 Accord went over 40k miles before replacement. They were in such good condition (and my fuel economy was just fine) that I couldn't see paying the cash for something I didn't need.

I would assume the minder will go off for an air filter this time (30k Service).

I would also think it is time for a transmission fluid change, right? Not a flush, just one drain and fill.

daksund

transmission fluid drain and refill was done at the honda dealer so i assume they use the honda brand or what is required.
the driving is ok its just when you shift from P to R or to D then back to P, it is not that smooth unlike before (there is some resistance). one of my friend mention about the cable connecting it to the gears. he even mention if i spill something that affected the lubricatrion of the cable.
really dont know????hope this is not a transmission issue eventually.

thanks for the reply..hope you can help guys..

elroy5

I would also think it is time for a transmission fluid change, right? Not a flush, just one drain and fill.

I would do it at 30k miles, if I were you. It may prevent needing a flush down the road. The condition of the fluid when it's drained this time should give you an idea how long you can wait before doing it again. It's hard to tell the condition of the transmission fluid by the dipstick, because most of the contaminants would be at the very bottom. When the plug is removed, the amount of metal stuck to the magnet will give a good indication of how the tranny is wearing, or not wearing, which would be preferable. This information is largely useless though, if you will not be doing it yourself.

elroy5

one of my friend mention about the cable connecting it to the gears. he even mention if i spill something that affected the lubrication of the cable.
really dont know????hope this is not a transmission issue eventually.

thanks for the reply..hope you can help guys..

Sounds like your friend has experienced this sort of thing before. Spilling of coffee, coke, etc. is a major cause of hard to move shifters. The hard to move shift lever does not mean internal transmission problems, so that should be a relief. The cable is probably the problem (either needs to be adjusted or cleaned and lubricated. This is not a transmission problem. It is a shift lever/cable problem.

daksund

elroy5, thanks...at least i have peace of mind..i know it will cost a lot if it is a transmission problem...

thanks

f0rl0rn

Oil and rotations is good enough. I am just over 22K and that's all that has been necessary. I will be changing my cabin and engine air filter at my next oil change, regardless of the MM, due to some major fires in San Diego a couple months ago.

I wouldn't worry about your MM getting confused about air filter changes. If you are already checking them at your oil changes just handle it when they get dirty. You have not yet missed any major maintenance items that I am aware of.

bav_fan07

Does anyone know where I can get a set of 4 Center Caps for my 16 inch rims on my 2003 Accord?

thanks

bav_fan07

Sorry - I should have been more clear - I mean does anyone know where I can get them besides going to my dealership? The Dealer is charing $35 per cap which is way over-priced (IMHO)

pat

This is about a CR-V, but the question has to do with Honda transmission oil - some of you may disagree with the answer the person was given: http://answers.edmunds.com/question_Problem_Tranny_tech_HONDA_OIL_rebuilding_98_- - CRV_502.aspx.

thegraduate

The link did not work for me. Hopefully it will for others.

pat

Hold on, I'm working on it.

Edit: try it now.

thegraduate

It works, and I replied. Boy you are right about disagreeing!!!

pat

Thanks - I knew you'd jump on it and I thought elroy would be there as well. Nice touch to provide the reference!

elroy5

That would definitely create a problem for me. It would be hard to change the fluid to Honda fluid now, because their is no way to completely change it out without a complete flush (more $$$). If it were me, I guess it would depend what type of fluid this shop used, what type of warranty was on this transmission, and I would surely let this shop know that if the tranny developed problems later on, I would be back and it wouldn't be pretty. You don't just put any off-the-shelf ATF in a Honda tranny. :sick:

thegraduate

Well I wanted it to be a little more than my word against his/hers.

pat

Why don't you follow the link and back up the grad?

blane

Have you checked with your local wrecking / junk yard?

elroy5

OK, I'll just copy and paste the post from here I guess.

tankbeans

Yeah.

I read the reference for the automatic transmission. I didn't realize that most car companies have their own fluid or "set" of fluids.

chucko3

$12 each + shipping.
http://www.bernardiparts.com/SearchResults.aspx?SearchType=Model&Image=14SDA0_04- 1_0004.GIF

char23

Thanks! I appreciate everyones responces.

bobst

We have a 2005 Accord with abour 26000 miles. During that time, we have had the handbrake tightened two times and it now needs to be tightened again.

This seems unusual to me. Have any of you had a similar problem?

thegraduate

We have a 2005 Accord with abour 26000 miles. During that time, we have had the handbrake tightened two times and it now needs to be tightened again.

This seems unusual to me. Have any of you had a similar problem?

It seems quite unusual to me as well. I have a 2006 Accord with 27,930 miles and I've never had mine tightened. I also know for a fact that my father never had his tighened on his 2005 Accord after nearly 70,000 miles. In fact, my 1996 Accord with 177k miles on it hasn't had the brake tightened either that I am aware of (it was my grandmother's car). I KNOW it hasn't in the last 60k miles (since I've had it).

elroy5

I haven't heard of this before. I don't think most people use the hand brake much. Do you apply the hand brake every time you park? The only time I apply the handbrake is when I park on an incline.

thegraduate

Hope you don't mind if I chime in here, but I am one of the people who use the handbrake every single time I park. My folks taught be the habit (same folks who had the 2005 Accord for 70k miles w/no brake problem).

I don't think the amount of usage is what is causing it.

elroy5

The so called experts say to always apply the hand brake. I just don't think it's necessary, unless I park on an incline. In my truck (it's a manual) I just put the shift in 1st, or reverse (depending on which gear I will be using when I return). In my car (automatic) I don't use it on level ground. If I park on an incline, I will use it, so the car's weight is not pushing on the park prawl in the transmission (which would make it difficult to move the shift lever out of park). Different strokes, I guess. The ground is as flat as can be around South Louisiana, so I can't think of anyone I know that applies the hand brake every time they park. In all my years of driving, I've never had one roll off on me. :surprise: I guess if it ever happens, I'll re-think my habits.