Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    I think he may be asking about the engine air intake filter.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I believe so. I don't have a link for that one, but the instructions for either one are in the owner's manual. There is 1 tool required (long screw driver or 8mm socket) to change the engine air filter, but it's pretty simple to do.
  • exshomanexshoman Member Posts: 109
    Just curious, but do you change your own air filter? I think I recall that you have a 2003 6 cylinder? Wonder if that's any easier than a 2006 4-cylinder (what I have), since my air filer is a royal pain in the behind to change

    Of all the cars I've ever owned, this is by far the most difficult to change because of the way the filter cover is situated under the left front filter.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It's probably close to the same situation. I have to push the cover pretty hard toward the engine to get it out from under the fender. For one engine, the owner's manual says to disconnect the hose going to the throttle body, but I have never resorted to that. Once you get the cover out from under the fender, it helps to pivot it all the way out to where it is totally clear from obstructions (straight up in the air). Trying to jam the filter between the cover and the fender is much harder. Many people get the cover out from under the fender, but not high enough to clear the battery clamp. This makes it hard to get the filter in. It takes some maneuvering to get it totally out, but it can be done, and makes the job easier.
  • rlommbardirlommbardi Member Posts: 30
    The first thing Honda told me was that the shaking was due to a different tire I put on the car...at 600000 miles.... plus they said the belts on the new tires shifted????

    Well - they were WRONG - it was the Transmission--- and Honda put in a new one for me...Goodfaith...however I Paid the Labor $750.00

    I have a strong feeling that the trans on the 04's will start messy up.... I had 780000 on it when it broke..rl
  • roberts5roberts5 Member Posts: 35
    Has anyone changed their antifreezein a 2003 I-4 auto? I drained 5 quarts of the 60,000 mile antifreeze, but it would only take about three quarts. I am guessing there is a oil pocket. Might there be a bleed valve near the thermostat to refill the antifreeze? If so, how do I drain off the air?
    I also have been hearing a rattle in the front, passenger door. Has anyone heard this rattle and know how to fix it? Thanks
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    Not sure on the antifreeze, but as far as the rattle, it is probably something inside the door, wire, etc, moving around, really all your got to do is take the door cover off and check it all out. its really that easy. no worries.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Do you have an owner's manual? The procedure starts on page 275. It's not as simple as drain and fill. Good luck
  • dtree838dtree838 Member Posts: 1
    I've got an '07 EX auto, and we noticed the rattle in the drivers door about a week after we drove it off the lot. Took it back to the dealer, they "fixed" it, but after a day or so it came back, although not as severe. Sounds like plastic vibrating against metal, and only at various times while driving.
  • roberts5roberts5 Member Posts: 35
    Thanks Elroy,
    I did not think the owners' manual would include such maintenance. It worked pretty easily, but not as quickly as expected. Most of the antifreeze drained out. It took a couple of attempts to completely refill.
    Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If maintenance is considered easy enough for the owner to do, with basic tools, it will usually be in the owner's manual. Glad I could help. I always purchase a factory shop manual for all my cars. A person with only basic common sense can perform most maintenance items and some troubleshooting, saving themselves countless $$$. My shop manual has paid for itself already. :)
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Member Posts: 1,724
    With it getting cold out, I am wondering on what I should do, or what is better for my car?

    Getting in the cold car, and immediately start driving -or

    Warming it up a bit and then going...

    I have always just got in it, and went on, no warm up, I don't like my engine is just idling.

    What is best, when I immediately drive, I don't run it hard, and it really warms up quite fast.

    What do you guys do, and what is best for my car?
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    You've been doing exactly the right thing. It has always been recommended by all automobile manufacturers and is friendliest to your vehicle's longevity.

    Incidentally, my 2004 and 2008 Accords have been the fastest of any of the many vehicles that I've owned to provide heat to the passenger compartment.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I second both of those statements... my 2006 Accord provides heat darn quick compared with my 1996! I drive off as soon as I start, and don't typically pass 3,000 RPM in the first minute or two of my drive when the engine is cold (I wouldn't if it was warm either, probably).
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    My service manager told me to let the car warm up about 10 seconds then drive off slowly. So, I start the engine when I first get in,then adjust seat,belt, mirror,etc,and drive away. I don't turn on the heater in my car till the engine is warm. Just my .02.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    With automatic climate control, I never turn my heater on or off. Just select a temperature and it does its own thing beautifully.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    I've been vaguely thinking about having an remote-start installed on my 03 Accord LX. I don't know if it would be worth it. My grandma's friend says he has it, but it is nothing but a pain in the neck and he wants it taken out. Only reason I ask is because sometimes when it's cold everything is ultra stiff and the car is just plain cold. Yesterday I couldn't feel my fingers for about 5-10 minutes. Nothing about the car.

    I live in Minnesota if anybody is wondering. Is it worth it or should I just save the money for a major issue, should one arise?

    Thoughts and opinions would be nice. I know this isn't technically a maintenance issue.

    Thanks to any who respond.
  • accordmqaccordmq Member Posts: 28
    Well, in the northern states and Canada, it is common to have engine block heater installed. Assume your car is not too far from the power outlet, plug it in at night (ideally with a timer so that it is not constantly on), and you'll have a warm engine when you're ready to start it. It saves gas and engine, and causes less damage to the environment.
  • rlommbardirlommbardi Member Posts: 30
    An engine Block heater is used for very cold climate..... do you go below 20 F???
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    For a good portion of the winter we are below 20F unless you meant 20 below 0 in which case not really.

    What I was more asking with the original question was whether or not to get remote-start, where you can be standing in a building and hit the button in order to get the heat going so it isn't so frigid. I generally prefer the cold, but I have my limits.
  • artpic41artpic41 Member Posts: 1
    this started over a month ago it would happened if I was starting the car on an incline
    now is doing it all the time I had to keep a flat screw driver to override the parking lock
    can some one help me? 2001 accord with 35000 miles< in excellent condition.
    can some one help me with this, before I take it in to the dealer, and do you know if this is covered under the extended warranty from Honda for their transmition ?
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    In the county where I live, it is against the law to allow a vehicle to idle for more than three minutes. Let's clean up the air and not leave unattended cars running.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When ever you park on an incline you should apply the parking brake, so the car's weight is not pushing against the parking prawl in the transmission, making it hard to shift out of park. When you stop, put the shift lever in neutral, set the parking brake, release the foot brake, then put the shift lever in park. This should solve the problem.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    In a city near me, it is against the law to leave an unattended car idling for any length of time, even if it is in your driveway. Car theft is the reason.

    I also agree with those who say to start the car, put on your seatbelt and then drive off.

    I have the auto temp control on my 06 EX-L but rarely use it because the AC compressor runs constantly with it, even when it is heating the car. Perhaps I should check to see if the defrost with no AC hack works. However, I do find that setting the temp manually works fine too.
  • rlommbardirlommbardi Member Posts: 30
    Before you put on the remote start...make sure it does not affect your warrenty...rl
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Member Posts: 71
    Save your money and frustration. Buy a better pair for gloves for your fingers.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Member Posts: 585
    It wouldn't affect my warrenty as the car is an 03 with just over 43,000 miles on it. Everything everybody has said has been my reasons for not doing it, but I just thought I'd get other people's thoughts.

    Thanks to all who responded.

    Although the reason about car-theft is more or less not an issue since the car will run until you put the break on then it will shut down. I know it's the law here too, but a lot of people here have them.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Hi, the tires are due for rotations at 30K (last time I have them rotated at 14K). I wonder if it is necessary to have the tires balanced. The dealer charges $19 for rotation and $50 for both rotation and balancing. Please share your experience.

    My next drive is up in 3 weeks - from Florida to CT- a 'fun' 1400 miles drive in 23 hours. I'll have the oil/oil filter changed although the minder says 20% left. I already did a round trip of total 3000 miles during Thanksgiving. It seems an oil change will last over 6-7K miles based on the minder display.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    A while back I posted a question regarding auto transmission fluid change. A few people recommend a change at 30K.

    But when I talked to a service lady at Honda Dealership, she referred to a schedule and said the 4-cyclinder Accord only requires a replacement of fliud at 60K. What's your experience? FYI, I drove long distance a lot recently (i.e. 3000 miles round trip twice). At Honda, a trans fluid change will cost $90 plus tax. It's not inexpensive.

    BTW, I was adviced by Honda Service that antifreezer need not to be replace until 120K miles. Is it true?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think you would be ok changing the tranny fluid at 60k miles, but I would have a difficult time waiting for a coolant change until 120k miles. I do my own maintenance, so I can afford to do it ahead of time. The high cost of labor is what makes it so expensive. My local dealership charges $73/hour minimum. :(
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    elroy5,

    $73 is a fantastic bargain. Here in the northern suburbs of NY it is $105 per hour.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If you don't notice any vibration/shaking while driving, then I wouldn't have the tires rebalanced.

    Mrbill
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    I understand that you are driving a 2006 Accord, but the 2005 Owner's Manual 4-Cylinder Maintenance schedule (before the advent of Maintenance Minder) reads:

    Replace automatic transmission fluid
    Normal Conditions:
    Replace at 120,000 miles (192,000 km) or 6 years, then every 90,000 miles (144,000 km) or 5 years.

    Severe conditions:
    Replace at 60,000 miles (96,000 km) or 3 years, then every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 2 years.

    Replace engine coolant
    Normal Conditions:
    120,000 miles (192,000 km) or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles (96,000 km) or 5 years

    Severe Conditions:
    120,000 miles (192,000 km) or 10 years, then every 60,000 miles (96,000 km) or 5 years

    Follow the Maintenance Schedule for Severe Conditions if you drive your vehicle
    MAINLY under one or more of the following conditions.

    Driving less than 5 miles (8 km) per trip or, in freezing temperatures, driving less than 10 miles (16 km) per trip.

    Driving in extremely hot [over 90°F (32°C)] conditions.

    Used primarily as a delivery vehicle or taxi that is driven mostly in stop-and-go traffic and/or parked with the engine idling.

    Trailer towing, driving with a roof top carrier, or driving in mountainous conditions.

    Driving on muddy, dusty, or deiced roads.

    If you only OCCASIONALLY drive under a &#145;&#145;severe&#146;&#146; condition, you should follow the Normal Conditions Maintenance Schedule.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Hi guys,

    Thank you for your quick response. Very informative! I'll double check my owner's manual and pay attention to the Minder System on my car.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    My Honda dealer's service includes transmission fluid drain & fill every 30K miles.
    Coolant flush & brake fluid flush at 45K miles.
    The transmission drain & fill costs $75 + tax.
  • altair9altair9 Member Posts: 10
    Yep NY is high,I am in Manhattan where I think the labor charge is 95.00 per hour. 105 is even higher than the city itself.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    "My Honda dealer's service includes..."

    I'm surprised that your dealer's in-house private high-profit service schedule doesn't specify all services every 15,000 miles. You'll alway notice that they are much more frequent than the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    From reading on these forums it has become apparent that people are not only considering the purchase prices of the cars. They also consider the cost of operating and maintaining them. Consumers are looking at the cost of insuring, fuel economy, resale value, and maintenance cost. Websites calculate the TCO (True Cost to Own) using the average costs associated with each car. The car makers are trying to lower these costs as much as possible. While the cost of insurance, the car's fuel economy, and resale value are hard to control and improve, the maintenance costs are an area where big savings can be accomplished, by simply extending the maintenance intervals. Many companies will advertise this low cost by advertising 100k mile maintenance intervals. While I do think the cars are designed to last longer than ever before, and thus require less maintenance, the intervals have been extended beyond what I think they should be. Things like transmission fluid, coolant, and spark plugs etc, have been extended to over 100k miles. I think spark plugs are not that important, in that leaving the original plugs in for 100k miles will not hurt the engine, but 100k or more miles on the same coolant, or transmission fluid seem like a lot to me. Corrosion, and wear associated with these fluids can adversely affect how long the cooling system and transmission will last.

    While lowering the ownership costs is nice, and the fact that many owners don't own the cars past 100k miles, I wonder if they are going too far with the extended intervals on some items. For those of us who own cars well past 100k miles, are we going to feel the affects of this.
  • cc2718cc2718 Member Posts: 18
    I agree with you. But if most original owners don't own the car past 100K then they are not going too far. I alway like to keep my car past 200K if possible and for that reason I don't like to buy used cars because who knows how the car has been maintained.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Since you like to keep your cars past 200k, will you wait until past 100k miles to change the coolant and transmission fluid?
  • rlommbardirlommbardi Member Posts: 30
    Be carefule changing the Trans fluid..... many say it may cause damage to the trans..... leaving small bits of metal in the system...... and then those small bits get mixed in the trans and you have big problems...rl
  • tomb4tomb4 Member Posts: 1
    Had battery changed, got flashing CODE on radio. I didn't get around to following up on it until 5-7days later. Read your messages. Found 5 digit number in glove box. Hit radio power button and CODE now flashes ERR1. I tried to enter the 5 digit code anyway, but no luck. Any suggestions? Thanks :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Replying to: elroy5 (Dec 02, 2007 11:13 am)

    Be carefule changing the Trans fluid..... many say it may cause damage to the trans..... leaving small bits of metal in the system...... and then those small bits get mixed in the trans and you have big problems...rl

    I believe they warn about a transmission FLUSH, not necessarily a transmission fluid change, correct?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I believe they warn about a transmission FLUSH, not necessarily a transmission fluid change, correct?

    Exactly grad, the power flushing forces the small particles into places where they can get stuck. A simple drain and fill will not hurt anything. There is a method used where they use the transmission's own pump to cycle the fluid through the tranny (no force feed), and that would be the best way, since a simple drain and fill only replaces a portion of the fluid.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    What you found in the glove box is the serial number of the
    radio. You need to call the dealer to get the code.
    They will ask you for this serial number.
  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    Hello, I own a 2003 Honda Accord EX-L (4 door sedan)

    Some of you Honda fans may know that the steering wheel audio/cruise controls do not illuminate at night. I was peeved way back in 2003 because other cars such as the Chevrolet Malibu, Mazda 6 all had this feature. Anyways, it is now 2007 approaching 2008 and I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to take a steering wheel off a 2004 or 2005 Accord (if the controls illuminate) and install it in my car?

    Or does anyone know if I even need to replace the steering wheel and if I could just get new switches/buttons for the controls?

    I would appreciate any input or help from fellow Honda enthusiasts or car owners. thanks.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    Do you mean that you haven't figured out where the buttons are since 2003? I could do it blindfolded in my 2004 Accord.

    Sorry, but I don't think that your ideas would be practical or cost effective.
  • bav_fan07bav_fan07 Member Posts: 68
    heh. you're funny. I know EXACTLY where the buttons are. There is just someone else who's annoyed that they don't light up at night. So I'm inquiring for that reason.

    And - this is why I'm posting the question - to find out if its possible. Although I don't appreciate your attitude, thanks for your input.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    The illuminated controls aren't on my 04, I think they came out in 05.

    Mrbill
  • accord5accord5 Member Posts: 1
    I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 2006 HONDA ACCORD SE. MY DEALER DID THE SAME THING AND I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.
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