Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

ezshift5

.....I recently had a brake job done on my 2005 accprd EX 4cyl just last weekend.

...I get a little nervous when I hear about 05 Accords and brakes. At odo 42k, OEM pads are still with me. Every now and then I get vibration. (Due to pad deposit). I have been addressing this via gentle braking action during the subsequent 10-15 miles.

I guess the question is: should I be concerned (any more than I already am?)

..ez..

elroy5

At odo 42k, OEM pads are still with me.

From the many posts about premature brake-wear, you are doing pretty good. I am about to change the pads on my 03 (50k miles). I am not going to have the rotors turned, because I have not had any problems with vibration. Many shops will advise you to have the rotors turned, even if you haven't experienced any problems, but I say why make the rotors thinner (by turning them), if it's not necessary.

brmehta

I have a new 2007 Accord EX-L I4 sedan. I have 1100 miles on it now.

I remember reading some posts where they talked about redlining your car, but cannot seem to find it now. Is it a good idea to purposely go to the redline once in a while? If yes, then can someone tell me the procedure to do that. I assume we will have to drive the car in gear "1" or "2" to reach the redline. Is that correct?

Thanks.

kiawah

Can't imagine what good purposely and periodically redlining an engine would provide.

blane

Why would you want to unnecessarily stress your new vehicle like that?

elroy5

I think it is a good idea to go to (not into) redline once in a while. With an automatic transmission, you can get close to redline in 1st or 2nd gear, just by flooring it. If you push the accelerator to the floor, say at 10mph, it will go close to redline before shifting into 2nd gear. The same with 2nd gear. You would be going at a high rate of speed by the time you get to redline in 3rd gear, so that is not advisable. :surprise: You can get to redline easy if you keep the gear selector in 1st, but then you have to be careful not to go over.

natenj1971

I drive a 2005 accord coupe with manual transmission (4cyl/ 19k miles). I've got this clink sound when I take off in first gear (coming from from passanger wheel-thought it was a loose caliper).

In the past it would just be the first time I took off in first. Lately it's been clanking more frequently. Always when I take off in first and NOW I hear a clank when I brake at speed less then 10 mph (from the drivers front wheel area). There is no slipping/grinding when braking but the sound is present.

I've had the service guys look it over twice. Been told everything works as it should. That the brake is just calibrating.

Didn't notice this the first year of driving. Just wondering if anyone has had the same experience. Fix?

Thanks.

blane

elroy5,

You wrote "I think it is a good idea to go to (not into) redline once in a while." without explanation.

WHY would anyone THINK that it is a good idea? Any rationale would be appreciated.

elroy5

From what I've learned, when the rpms go up to redline the pistons actually go up a fraction of an inch further than at say 3krpm, from centrifical force. So if you never run the engine up to that speed, the cylinder wall is not broken in all the way up to that point. So the one fine day when you do rev the engine up that high (high speed passing situation maybe), you would likely see some smoke out of the exhaust, from the piston rings never going up that high before. In other words, if you never run your engine up to that rpm, it will be less effective when and if you need to. I could be totally wrong about this, but that's my view.

Mr_Shiftright

Well it's the rare engine that is really worth running up that high---that's not where peak power is, so it's mostly noise and wasting gas at redline.

thegraduate

Often times running to redline is important to have the RPMs high enough in the next gear upon upshift.

For example, say car x has a power peak of 5,000RPM, and a 6,000 RPM redline. (and Shiftright, tell me if this isn't often true:)

(it would faster to go 1000 (dead stop RPM) -6000-4500-6000-4500 and so forth than 1000-5000-3100-5000-3100 and so on). The drop in RPMs each time represents a shift.

*Obviously, engine powerband characteristics come into play, but often times, its true.

elroy5

I would not say to run your engine close to redline every day. Only when needed for passing or merging. Peak hp is at a certain rpm, but if you keep the engine at that rpm, you are not accelerating. So shouldn't the engine shift from a lower gear slightly above peak power rpm, so that when it does shift into the higher gear it will be slightly below peak power rpm? So that the engine sweeps through the peak hp rpm in each gear. Are you saying a car might accelerate faster at 3/4 throttle, than at full throttle. I doubt any drivetrains are designed that way.

tallman1

There is a theory that breaking in an engine involves taking it to the redline and that is what you are referring to. I don't remember where the post is located but there was a link to a website that explained the rationale. Something about seating the pistons, IIRC.

elroy5

I remember reading that post, and it sounded logical to me. Like there was a method to the madness. I would have a hard time convincing myself to do that to my own brand new engine. I just assume the manufacturers aren't lying when they say not to use full throttle for the first 600 miles. The guy did sound like he knew what he was doing and why, but how can we be sure? Maybe for my next new car, I will do some serious research on it.

blane

I too remember that thread. The theory may be fine in the empirical sense, but better your engine than mine thank you.

Mr_Shiftright

I don't recall that that was the theory. The one I recall was to use "full throttle" acceleration for break in, but only to a certain RPM, not redline.

The problem is that at redline an engine is not "under load"; rather, it is running away with itself. Any engine would self-destruct were it not governed.

Given the enormous forces on a piston head at redline, I really don't see the point. I think snappy shifts 500 rpm shy of redline would suit a Honda engine just perfectly.

Rev limiters are put on your Honda for a reason, to tell you "don't do that".

elroy5

Rev limiters are put on your Honda for a reason, to tell you "don't do that".


I guess I did not make it clear. I would only suggest going as close to redline as the automatic transmission will go before shifting (in Drive). I believe the "red" part is red for a reason, and I have never been there. The transmission will shift between 100-200rpm before it gets to the red. At least mine does.

Mr_Shiftright

I guess if you held it in a lower gear (manually shifting) it would hit the rev limiter on an automatic?

elroy5

I assume it would hit the rev-limiter even with the manual. But like you've said, there is no extra power above redline, so I don't see any reason to find out. I'm sure there are others who have hit the rev-limiter, and could verify when and how it happens.

gottaody

I believe that this is the earlier post that others are referring to which explains the theory about red-lining your Accord engine one time well after the break-in period is over:
Redline engine once

Mr_Shiftright

While he other break-in advice seems fine, I don't see his point in redlining...well I see his point but it makes no sense. He's saying that a ridgeline will form in the cylinders at some point, which might be true in 200,000 miles--so it makes little sense to worry about THAT during break-in. Also I doubt a connecting rod is permanently stretched by redlining. You sure could bend a valve though.

I'd lay off redline unless you are tracking the car and are happy to deal with the consequences.

tazman101

I have an 04 Accord as well. it has been perfect until i took it to Sears for tires at 60,000 mile. When my wife picked it up, she said it was vibrating. I drove it and agreed. i took it back the next day. They said they were short handed. i waitied a week, during this time I drove it 1200 miles. I then took it to Sears once again. they said they were short handed. i took it to Wal Mart, paid them 30.00 to rotated and balance. then it was fine for about 500 more miles. I replaced the rotors and the pads on the front. it was ok again for another 500 miles. I took it to a place in Savannah called Savannah Tire to have it allined. they said it was the tires. i took it back to Sears. they were short handed. Well my timper got short as well. they rotated and balanced the tires. it is still doing the same thing. I am begaining to think it might be an axle or something. any input?

rlommbardi

I have an 04 EXL 4doors 4cyl. Accord
Tire Vibration turned out to be - I need a new Trans..78000 mile and on Honda Accord the trans failed...according to the Service Dept. at St.Charles Ill... well since I have been going there for all service - according to the manager..Honda will replace the trans... howeve I have to pay labor $700.00... so watch out if your car starts to shake - vibrate at 30 mph and 55 mph...
Is this something we shoule all be concerned about>>?????
Plus ... when I brought it in they first told me the Belts on the tires I bought at Discount Tire have shifted and that is why I had vibration - Discount Tire was great...gave me 4 new tires... for $100.00 --- so now I am out the $100.00 for new tires I did not need plus out the $700.00 for a Trans that may be defective...

rlommbardi

Hey - I brought my 04 EXL in and the Trans is broke... they will replace it but I have to pay for the Labor $700.00
it was doing the same thing yours is doing...

gncrrr

from the 2007 Honda repair and maint. forum that is now read only and I did not get any reply's from so trying here. Anyone out there with this same problem? Is it a problem?? I had the service done and it seemed to be ok afterwards. I now have approx 2100 miles on it and and the drifting seems to be getting worse again. I have driven mostly HWY miles and have not hit any major bumps , ruts, potholes etc. to account for this seemingly out of alignment issue thats happening. Thanks in advance for you're help. Please read below......

I have had my new 2007 Honda SE 4cyl. for less than a week with approx 750 miles on it and it has started to considerably drift to left and right. I need to keep moderate pressure on steering wheel at all times to keep from drifting. When slowing then braking the steering wheel and car will turn moderatley to right or left depending on degree of steering wheel placement. I had apptmnt for alignment today at dealer. after 45m there the service advisor comes out and states he took for test ride and it seems normal...I then drove with him to show him exactly the condition, which BTW the car did...drifted like it's out of alignment...and then he stated this is normal due to where crown of road is you're driving on and the low profile Michelins (there only 16" wheels on alloys, I don't consider these to be low profile...are they??) that come on the SE model...WHAT!!!! I was speechless. I've never owned a car that has had this considerable alignment issue(My 1st Honda BTW)as I've owned 2 saturn L100's previously with nary a problem...but decided to go in a different direction this time. Anyway after pushing the subject with him he seemed to begrudgingly suggest an alignment...he stated he needs to keep it for 2 days per a Honda bulletin, to do a full realignment and tire rotation and then test drive and another tire rotation to "try and correct what I percieve to be a problem" (then he stated it may still be there after service is done...HUH??). The SM showed me the Honda Service Bulletin regarding this issue but stopped short of saying it was a major problem. Why would HONDA issue a Bulletin if it was not major?? Has anyone else experienced this problem as well?? I hope they can correct it as it adds to the car not handling as well as it should and feel unsafe at high speeds on the highway with potential drift into another lane. Thanks in advance for any opinion and advice.

bvdj84

I am so sorry for your experience and problem, it will get better. Honda's are wonderful cars. American Honda takes problems seriously, and strive for excellent customer service. You need to contact American Honda, and forward all of this to them, so that they are informed of the situation. This will keep the dealership from hanging you to dry. They will notify the dealership to take further action on the problem. If it is on the bulletin, then it must be serious, and perhaps they have had many problems, but this is all covered by American Honda, so the dealership wouldn't be out. Call them immediately, and get a case going on this. It is very simple, and then that way they'll do a follow up.
The number for American Honda is 1-800-999-1009.
You should not have to live with this problem, it is not normal.

I have an 06 SE accord, and that is not the normal drive. That is one of the best characteristics of the steering, is that is so stable, and can let it go on a flat road, and it drives straight.

fw_man

I have an 06 Accord VP 4 cyl with 44k miles. This morning (it was pretty chilly around 40F) after I drove my daughter to school about 4 miles, I came home and could not shift the transmission into Park. I tried shifting it down past D3 to D2 and couldn't.
Tried a few more times and finally it shifted down to D1 and after that with some effort to Park. Never had that before.
While it was doing this, I could freely shift between Rev and D3.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

fw_man

j562002

Yeah maybe there is something blocking you from putting it into park. maybe something is stuck infront of the gear shifter? So is it in park now? did you have to leave the keys in it? Good Luck

fw_man

No, there is nothing in the cabin blocking the shifter. It is in Park now, but I have to apply more effort to shift it from Rev to Park than yesterday or any other time before.
More thoughts?

kemccorey

My cigarette lighter outlet stop working, which cause my cell phone car charger not to work. I check the interior fuse box and found a blown fuse. I replaced the fuse and plugged the phone charger back in and it blew again (actually twice) phone charger works fine in my other vehicles. What do you think is the problem ?

fw_man

I would try not plugging anything into the cigarette lighter and see if the fuse blows. If it does, there may be a short in the cig lighter circuit that needs to be fixed. If it does not, maybe your charger is drawing more current than this circuit is designed for. In other cars, the circuit may be somewhat heavier duty.

elroy5

If you used it as a cigarette lighter outlet, that could be the problem. The outlet is not supposed to be used as a cigarette lighter. If you haven't used it for a cigarette lighter, maybe the outlet itself is bad. It would be the easiest thing to change.

kiawah

Look carefully at the cellphone charger plug, and look at where the contacts are on the side. Make sure they aren't defective. Then look carefully inside the lighter, to see where the clean metal ground is. Make sure there isn't anything in down at the bottom, like a broken piece of metal or something. You want to push the plug straight in, and don't turn/twist the plug when you put it in.

Sometimes the problem is just contacts inappropriately touching.

thegraduate

Sometimes the problem is just contacts inappropriately touching.

Hey pal, this is a FAMILY car. No inapppropriate touching should be going on, got it?!?

kiawah

Oppsss....just had a flash back

atlantabenny

"Crunching" noise from the front of car can be heard and felt when starting from stop. Shop says 2 engine and 1 tranny mounts need replacement for $550. 2003 Accord V6 coupe has 82k miles, never raced or driven hard. Anyone had similar experience ? Thinking it possibly qualifies for partial or full goodwill repair. Appreciate any info...

tjiang001

I do not use my honda 2007 very often, about 1500 miles/ 6 months. If follow the maintainance reminder, the oil change should be every 5000 miles. I need to wait until almost 2 years. Should I follow or skip it? If skip, how often should I do oil change?

blufz1

Once each year.

tjiang001

anyone can recommend a popular place to change oil? I think dealer is expensive and also they always push you for more services. I used to go to walmart, price is fine, but I am not sure the quality of their oil. Or Costco?

stickguy

There are some quick lube places that do a good job. Scope out the ones convenient to you, and see what kind of feeling you get. Also ask around for recommendations.

I have been using the dealer, at least while it is under warranty. They are about the same price (and usually have coupons), and at least I know I get the right filter! They also do a nice inspection and give a detailed report. I have also not been upsold, but if they offer soemthing yo udon't want, just say no.

Oh, and it is express, so you can just wait while they do it.

rlommbardi

Goodwill Repair sounds great....
I have a 04 Accord 4cyl auto - EXL with 78000
and the trans went out according to the dealership in St. Charles Ill.....at first they told me it was my tires... Discount tires gave me 4 new ones for $100.00 since the ones on the car had only 10k miles on them...

the problem was still there...at 30 mph the car shook and then at 55mph it shook harder... I guess as the car was going into gears...they said it is broke and I needed a new Trans $4500.00 but since I always brought it to them for service...Honda will give me the Goodwill offer - new trans I pay for labor...$700.00

A trans should not go after only 78000... rl :surprise:

blufz1

I think your glass is half full.

thegraduate

I second that blufz, once a year minimum, if you don't hit the mileage criteria.

blane

atlantabenny,

I did a search of the NHTSA website
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/portal/site/nhtsa/menuitem.bead436724af02e770f6df102000- - - 8a0c/

I can't find that yours has been a reported problem. I wonder if you can expect to receive a "goodwill" repair for a unique occurrance.

atlantabenny

Barry, appreciate the search. Couldn't find any recall/TSB myself. One engine mount had already been replaced, at about 20k miles, under warranty. Any event, I'll try goodwill and report results.

rlommbardi, I agree major components on a Honda aren't supposed to break early. Or else we shouldn't be paying a premium for their cars.

j562002

Not exactly. I just know what I stated earlier has happened to me many times and to a friend the other day. I don't really have much more I can say on that subject. Maybe one of the mechanisms that involved from where the key is inserted into the column, to the brake over to the gear shifter are not working together? Good luck with that :confuse:

meliward

My TCS light has started to come on occasionally - and the actual Traction Control System is clearly NOT activated at the time. It will then stay on until I turn my car off. Has anyone else had this problem or have any thoughts on why? Trying to avoid the $90 to have a mechanic even look at the car..

gncrrr

Very much for this info. I will Call American Honda today and start a case. I have read in the past few days on other car forums (ie. Yahoo Auto) that this has been problem. I wish I had known about it before I purchased. I bought this Brand and model over the Saturn Aura(loud cabin road noise+inferior interior) and the New Camry because of Toyota's transmission problems. Thanks again. Greg

sudhirraom

I had my 06 accord v6 inspected by dealer for the same problem which you mentioned. As i expected their answer was "Nothing wrong with this car". I had it test driven by two mechanics. Both said they did not find any thing wrong with car's transmission. Only thing they assured me that if something goes wrong with my car's transmission they will fix it free of charge even after my warranty expires as i had suspected some problem when car is under warranty. I dont know if they really do this or not. But this rough downshift at 25mph still exists. As of now i have decided to live with it. I am not sure how long i can bear it.
Did you have your car inspected with dealer?

user777

more than likely, if you don't insert the plug perfectly aligned with the socket, you're going to short the internal contacts in the outlet and cause the fuse to blow.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS in any vehicle you own, insert the plug all the way into the socket before you turn the vehicle over.

"Fuses are a terrible thing to waste". :shades: