Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

elroy5

I would only replace the bad calliper. Why change the good one. The calliper floats on the pins/bolts, which are supposed to be greased, so the calliper can slide side to side, allowing for pad wear, and to keep the pads centered on the rotor. The pad on the inner side of the rotor wore more, because the calliper was not able to slide over to that side. The calliper may not be the problem. It could be the pins. It would have to be inspected to know which is the cause. It's hard to explain this to someone if they don't know how a calliper works. It would be a lot easier to show you. Where do you live.

nycnftm

I'm in Atlanta. Just Brakes said they only do them in pairs and will replace them both and do the brakes for 225-275. This is a leased car that I probably keeping.

imidazol97

Could be the pins and rubber slides. Could be the piston int he caliper or its seal.

I'd suggest finding a mechanic specializing in that model of car who'll inspect and replace only what's necessary. Indicate you're looking for someone for regular, needed repair work and checkups. A neighbor has done that at a Honda/Accord independent shop. He checks for things that are preventative and does only what's needed on their 4 Acuras.

rlommbardi

I need help - my 2004 Ex with 78000 miles on it will run smooth at 0 - 25mph but then at around 30mph is bogs...kind of runs choppy... then at 45 to 55 it runs like a top but to push it to 60mph it runs seems like it hesitates again...
I balanced and rotated the tires but it still does the bogging...Please advise...thanks
Ric : :confuse: :sick:

rlommbardi

04 EX Accord 4d 4cylinder -
at about 30 mph I am getting a vibration... somewhat choppy - then smooth at 40 to 55 then at 60mph vibration???
Please help... :sick: :confuse:

kiawah

how about go get your tires balanced, and then rotate them to a different position.

elroy5

Could be a motor mount problem. Hard to be sure. If it's a hesitation (engine bogging) problem, I would suspect EGR. Was the Check Engine Light on at any point?

elroy5

Just Brakes said they only do them in pairs and will replace them both and do the brakes for 225-275.

I would change the pads on both sides, but I see no reason to change the good calliper. :confuse:

rlommbardi

Greetings..... the Check Engine light was not on what is EGR???? and should what should I tell the dealer...???

kiawah

Well what you should tell the dealer, are the symptoms that you experienced. He is best qualified to figure out exactly what your problem is. We all on the internet are hampered by not being able to touch, listen, drive, and look at your vehicle.....so can only make an assessment based on what you write.

But EGR, is an Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. It basically provides a mechanism where any crankcase fumes can be recycled back and are put into the intake, and burnt up.

yoribe2

Hello all,

I own a 4-cyl 2003 Accord with 65K miles. I took my car in for an oil change/coolant flush and refill yesterday and the service rep recommended a power steering fluid flush and refill. I referred to the owner's manual but there was no mention of the mileage at which the power steering fluid should be changed, and wanted to know if any of you know what the recommended change interval for power steering fluid is. Thank you in advance. :confuse:

elroy5

Actually the owner's manual for the 03 4cyl. has the coolant change interval at 120k miles. Personally I would not wait that long. 65k sounds good enough for me. The power steering fluid should be checked to see if it looks contaminated, dark, or discolored. If it is, it should be flushed. Did the technician check the fluid before recommending the flush? Who knows.

daveturner

I have a 2004 4cyl Accord (40k miles) and I had it at the dealer service about 3 weeks ago and they also recommended the power steering flush ($100)--the service adviser also suggest fuel injection cleaning ($100) stating something about carbon buildup near the carburetor and the cleaning would improve power/performance. I thought that was too many cleaning services for one visit so I only agreed to the power steering flush. I heard that fuel injection cleaning might not be necessary at all? What are your guys thoughts on fuel injection cleaning (or similiar services)?

yoribe2

So it looks like the power steering fluid flush interval is kind of arbitrary, based on the appearance of the fluid. I think I'll get it done at the next oil change (70K mi). I don't know if the fuel injection cleaning also covers the intake throttle area, but I did have some carbon buildup around the throttle plate which caused my pedal to stick. I cleaned out the gunk with some Gumout. I think 2 bottles of Chevron Techron additive over 2 tank fulls should clean out the injectors sufficiently.

elroy5

If you use a good detergent gas with Techron (or similar) the cleaning should not be necessary. If you use the cheap gas (walmart, Sams, convenience store type) it may need cleaning.

mamamia2

Our '05 Accord has now 13,750 on the odometer. My wife says the "Maint Req'd" has been flickering when she starts up the engine and then it goes away.

I guess it tells me it's time to go to the dealer and pay him some $350 so he can change the oil and perform some "inspections".... I've been using my Shell station mechanic to maintain my cars, thank you.

So, the question is, how do I GET RID of that "Maint Req'd" message?

elroy5

The owner's manual has the procedure for turning the light off. You have to hold the button down (the one for re-setting the trip odometer), while holding the button down, turn the key switch to on (not start) hold the button until the light goes out (about 10 seconds).

qbrozen

and pay him some $350 so he can change the oil and perform some "inspections"

you say that as if you have no choice when you go to the dealer. you do know they will do exactly what you ask, don't you?

elroy5

With the prices dealers charge to inspect/look at something, it's amazing to me that less and less people do their own maintenance. No way I pay some guy (who cares nothing about my car) to do what I can do. Maybe I'm considered a relic these days, but I enjoy working on my car, and learning how it operates. Of course you have to know your limitations, and know how to do the job right. Some people should not be allowed to pull the hood release on their own car.

mamamia2

Thanks, elroy for reminding me that I can find the info in my manual.... I didn't think Honda would willingly instruct me how to AVOID taking the car for my periodical visit to my dealer...

But you can't expect the average car owner to do his (certainly not her) own mechanical work... That's why, if not willing to pay dealers the crazy prices they charge, your local, trusted mechanic is a good solution.

That's what I do. And while at the dealership you wait, sitting in some crummy "waiting room" watching boring TV, while some unknown guy is doing who knows what to your car, my mechanic lets me stand next to him, while taking care of my car, answer questions, develop a relatioship... the human touch, you know...

elroy5

A mechanic you know personally is great. One of my friend's dad is a mechanic, and on those rare occasions when I do need a mechanic he is the one I go to. He will probably be retiring soon though, so that may be a problem. Having to explain your problem to the "service manager" then trusting him/her to relay the information to the mechanic is the worst, IMO. I will avoid that if at all possible.

daveturner

Thanks for the advice...I have been using either Chevron or Shell gas for the life of my accord (40K miles)...I've mainly been using Shell for the past two years because it's more convenient for me and was listed as a Top Tier Gas retailer (http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html) which Honda recommends. How many miles do your Accords have without the fuel injection cleaning and which brand of gas you use--if Chevron is really that good then maybe I will consider switching from Shell to Chevron.

elroy5

I once brought my 92 Accord (over 100k miles) injectors to a place to get them cleaned, and the guy told me he'd be wasting his time, because they were not dirty. I have been using Texaco gas forever, but as long as Shell gas has the detergents needed (top tier) it should do just as well. My 03 Accord has 50k miles on it, and I am assuming the fuel system is ok, cause she still runs as smooth as ever.

thegraduate

Try 175k miles on the 1996 with no fuel system/injector cleaning ever. The first 120k miles it got no-name gas (Crown). Since I've had it, I've run Chevron in it; and these days, Texaco too, when convenient (they both have Techron detergent).

Still runs like a top!

http://youtube.com/watch?v=oqpmCiC_twg

TheGraduate's 1996 Accord 25-70MPH up on-ramp

elroy5

I also had a 92 Nissan Sentra, and when the fuel pump went out (at 50k miles), the dealership cleaned the injectors, and it made a slight difference. The engine ran noticeably smoother. So when the Accord got over 100k, I figured it was time. Seems the Accord's fuel injectors stayed clean a lot longer.

thegraduate

Well, i don't know if you can tell much from the sound of the engine, but check out my youtube videos and tell me what you think.

It's all stock, obviously (it is going up a slight grade but not very quickly!)

thegraduate

Hey elroy, while I've got ya online, let me ask ya a question. Both of my Accords do something similar when coasting down a hill. If I'm coasting at 50MPH in my 1996, the RPMs stay at 2,000RPM or so, but if I barely touch the gas a moment, the revs drop to about 1,500 or so and stay there even after I let off the gas, making it feel like it's freewheeling. I have a video of that I intend to put on youtube to show you if you want to know what I mean. Any ideas what causes this?

elroy5

Don't know if I completely understand what you are saying, but it sounds like you are manipulating the lock-up for the torque converter. Honda transmissions are very quick to adjust to even the slightest throttle input. I can usually make the transmissions shift early or late by slight movements of the accelerator. Don't know if you've ever experienced this before, but with most domestic cars I've owned before if you stopped on a slight incline in Drive, the car would not roll backwards. The Honda transmission will let the car roll backwards even in drive.

thegraduate

Well, I'm 98% through uploading the video to youtube.com. That will show you more of what I'm talking about.

I'll post the link as soon as its ready.

I'll state it as simply as I can.

Driving along, steady speed, 50MPH (2000RPM).
Reach a hill, let off gas pedal. RPMs hold steady where they were (2000RPM).

Barely touch the gas pedal and then release again. Revs drop significantly, by at least 400RPM. They stay there until I press the gas pedal again, giving a feeling much like coasting in neutral.

thegraduate

http://youtube.com/watch?v=uUJwOYR_lqY">Honda Accord Freewheeling? Youtube

You'll see it at around 00:30 in the video.

elroy5

Since there are absolutely no hills around here, I have no experience with this situation. I would say it has something to do with grade logic, but I don't think the 95 has that. I think I would have to feel it for myself. Does it bother you, when this happens? Or do you like the idea? Good thing, or bad, from what you are feeling?

thegraduate

My 1996 has grade logic control, yes, but I'm not sure its related.

It doesn't bother me at all, unless someone's in front of me, then i have to ride the brakes a bit more when going downhill. Did the video give you an idea of what happens though?

elroy5

The rpms drop quite a bit for it to be torque converter lock-up, so I'm not so sure about that now. The only solution I can think of is downshifting, if you don't want to ride the brakes. Sorry I can't be more help, but this is a new one for me. I may be able to get some input from others on this tomorrow. Good night.

thegraduate

It's ok. I'll try and take a better video in my 2006 Accord. It drops to 1,500RPM at 60MPH and holds there when this happens. That's a solid 500 RPM drop as well.

qbrozen

I have some problem going on with my '06 6-speed sedan with 20k miles. I am dropping it off at the dealer sunday night, but would like to know what I may be dealing with before then.

So I was coming around a sharp turn last night and downshifted to 2nd. I had the stereo on, so I'm not sure exactly what happened, but I heard/felt something and when I tried to accelerate, the car barely moved but the RPMs shot up. I didn't think I missed the gear, but tried anyways and found I was definitely in gear. So I tried 3rd and then 4th with the same results. Finally in 5th it caught on. I was not far from home, so got it there and it seemed ok the rest of the way. When I got out at home, I could smell the clutch had been burning.

Now when I drove it this morning to work, it is chattering/vibrating each time I am engaging a new gear, but then is fine once fully engaged and accelerating.

SO, any thoughts? Did it break a spring or something like that? Is it possible something got jammed in there and wouldn't let it engage, but then after depressing the clutch a few times, it worked its way out but has now damaged the disc? I have read several reports of Integras breaking clutch springs, but those are completely different engines and trannies. I have yet to find anything about the 6-speed accord, specifically.

stickguy

man, this is going to kill your credibility on the "future of the manual transmission" thread!

I don't see how a spring going would burn out the clutch? maybe it is the master cylinder?

Anyway, make sure to let us know the outcome.

qbrozen

;b

well, the clutch isn't burned out. I mean, I'm still driving it. There is no crunching or problems actually moving the shifter.

I'm not all too acquainted with the inner workings here, but I'm thinking if a spring broke and the clutch was partially jammed open for a little while until me pushing the clutch in and out freed it up?? But now it is not engaging smoothly and evenly with each shift. Does that make any sense??

hey, and as far as manual vs automatic, it now today with this problem feels about as smooth as my wife's automatic Pacifica. ;b

mamamia2

My wife's '05 V6 Accord is vibrating at idle speed. It's not terrible, but it's worse than my '06 4-banger Sonata's idle-speed vibrations (which are hardly noticeable)....

She drives very short distance to work (couple miles each way), and I'm aware that that kind of short trips, also using 87 grade (Shell) gas, may eventually be the cause of Carbon deposit buildup in the engine...

My question is, is there a CONNECTION between the vibrations and her short trips?

And if yes, is the right approach to use gas additives/cleaners? Yesterday when I filled it up I poured in a whole can and used the highest-grade gas.... Still waiting for results...

chucko3

Experienced this with my 03EXV6 every time
on a downhill road.
It sounds like the effect of grade logic.
The car continues at constant speed but at
lower RPM, engine braking. Without this grade
logic the car will go faster going down the hill.

thegraduate

No, with lower RPM that I'm getting, the revs go LOWER than normal (lower than driving on a flat road in top gear at 50). In the video, the revs start at normal levels and drop to below normal. They DO NOT start at above normal levels and drop to normal, as they would in grade logic. Lower RPM = less resistance = less engine braking.

rlommbardi

Any suggestions out there to make sure my injectors are clear and running smooth.... I was thinking of trying to do an additive to the gas tank??? :confuse:

rick

thegraduate

Using additives really scares me. I'd say a safe bet is to use a top-tier gas with a detergent in it (for example, Chevron with Techron). That keeps them running clean all the time instead of using one big dose of it. It may cost $.03 more per gallon, but in the long run, its cheaper than buying additives often; additives that can do more harm than good.

imidazol97

I use additives but only the Techron fuel system cleaner by Chevron. It's the additives they use in their fuels. I have found that they have less effect as I use more name brand gas over months and almost no "off brand" fuel. I used to use half Meijer, Murphy, Speedway, et al. They get their fuel from the same tanks with different additive packages.

Now I rarely fill up at one of those brands. I put in a 12 oz Techron from Meijer or Walmart or Advance Auto once 6-9 months. I consider if $6.00 well spent.

Note they have an injector cleaner version labeled as such on the package. I stay with the fuel system cleaner.

I consider almost all other additives mouse milks and transfer devices. The Techron was and is recommended by a mechanic when there are symptoms. It's one I could hear and feel a difference as I drove after putting the stuff in.

I also avoid high alcohol fuels as much as possible.

chucko3

Today I was driving at 70MPH on a highway.
Knowing the downhill road was not far away so
I let my foot off the gas pedal.
By the time the car reached the tophill, it
started coasting at 59 mph. The RPM was 1900.
After aquarter of mile downhill, the RPM
dropped to 1600 and I could feel a load was put
on the engine. The speed was still at 59 mph.
This is normal. It's a grade logic.

Is this something you experienced?

chucko3

After 30K miles I add a bottle of Chevron
FI cleaner (10 bucks for 4 at Costco) to a
full tank every 3K miles or sooner.
My 89LXi still ran strong after 213K miles
before I gave it away last year. And it still
runs now last time I asked.
The car didn't have any FI service in its
entire life.

tallman1

I used a lot of Arco gas and then Costco in my 95 Accord. I heard about the "cheap" gas concerns but it is still going strong at well over 200k miles.

thegraduate

Yes, this sounds like my experience, but I still don't think its grade logic. Grade logic is explained as a function that prevents gear hunting (by locking in 3rd). I thank you for passing this along!

chucko3

I don't think Grade Logic prevents gear
hunting. It assists in braking on a steep hill.
Gear hunting is when I am stuck in traffic on hwy and the car goes between 30 and 40. I
just lock it in D3.

I googled Grade Logic and found this:
http://www.autotrader.com/research/car-reviews/article-1997/1995-Honda-Accord-Wa- gon.jsp?make=HONDA&model=&refpage=&restype=used&year=1995

Search for Grade Logic in the article.
That's what I experience every day driving to
work.

thegraduate

In Honda's brochure, it specifically shows a graphic on a car without GLC, and one with it. The one WITH it holds in 3rd, the one without it is shown going from 3-to-4-to-3-to-4 etc... You'll notice, when climbing a steep hill at speed, the car will lock into third, no going back and forth to fourth.

ex7

Hi guys,

Ive been noticing for the past couple of months now since I purchased my EX V6 accord a slight vibration every morning for 1 or 2 minutes of driving. This issue only occurs during cold start and Ive rotated my tires since then but the same issue occurs which leads me to believe maybe there is a problem with the tires on the car?

Also, is it true that the Honda accord tranny is located to the left of the car and if so, would this explain the vibration? Thanks.