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Comments
After regular engine oil change and 18 points inspection (brake pad, tires, battery etc are examined) at dealers place, this problem keep occurring. So I had to make one more visit to dealer to get it fixed, usually in the next week. I had this problem since I bought car last year.
Dealer has fixed this problem every time, but he never told me what they have done to fix the problem and invoice will have smiley faces. After this no pulsating noise till next oil change and 18 points inspection or type rotation.
What could be wrong with car?
I thought the RPM should be close to 3K.
TheGrad
06 EX 4-cyl Automatic
If this is normal, then (at least) all 2006 owners should be experiencing the same thing.
Are you? You do need to have the windows down and the radio on low, or off.
I'd appreciate a response.
Thanks,
Freddie
When braking while driving forward, the calipers are "set" in their position. When you back up, the "click" you hear is them coming out of this "set" position when you apply the brake. Then, once you go forward again, they go back into this position. In my mind's eye, it works like the adjustable pliers shown here:
My 2006 does this, as did my dad's 2005 model. Exact same thing. I hope this helps alleveate your concern!
Best regards,
TheGrad
2006 Accord EX, 24,600 miles
1996 Accord LX, 175,000 miles
First time posting. I took my 2004 Accord EX sedan to the local Honda dealer for a routine oil change today at 50K miles. After waiting about 20 minutes, I got called to the service desk. The service managed told me that one of my rear sway link bar was broken.
He offered to have it fixed for $188 ($87 in parts and rest in labor). He made a comment that they can replace the original sway link bar with a sway link bar that is thicker and less prone to breaking. He also mentioned that I might as well have both sway link bars replaced.
So my questions are:
1) Has anyone else had issues with their rear sway link bar breaking? Curious at the comment made by the service manager that they can replace the original sway link bar with a thicker one. Made it seem that it was almost common or that Accords were prone to having a sway link bar broken.
2) Is there a sway link bar on each side in the rear of the car? I had thought that a sway link bar was one piece that extended from one joint to the other and not in 2 pieces or more.
I'm not hard on my cars and I can't imagine how a rear sway link bar could have got broken.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tae
interesting there are two parts for the same item. i wonder if one is more heavy-duty than the other? if you got your head under the rear with a flash-light, you should be able to see the broken part.
i'm thinking you could then shop the repair (price and labor) maybe to an independant shop dealing with hondas. it seems they are marking up the part a bit, but the labor, i don't know how difficult it is to make the swap-out as i've never worked on suspensions. probably someone else here can advise you.
front lower arm:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2004&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+A- - - RM
rear lower-arm:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2004&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=REAR+LOWER+AR- - - M
There was a "exchange of information" report filed, but the officer would not determine who was at fault, I would think since I was backed into, while trying to avoid the collision it was the other drivers fault,might end up in court.
There is a noticeable pull to the left now, but no wobble. Im thinking alignment, and now after the previous post about the mysterious stabilizer breakage,maybe I should see a certified front/rear end shop.
no doubt your alignment has been affected, but you could have something more troublesome. you could bring it to a shop and have them put it on a lift to see if visually there is something quite evident.
i don't want to alarm you, but there is a strut tower mount i think at or above the gas tank door. on a side impact like that, the relationship of the strut tower mounting to the rest of the frame and suspension parts could have changed in such a way as to prevent re-aligning the vehicle, or changing out a suspension part and having it all good minus the appearence problems caused by the damage to the fender...
i hope you are following this.
what i'm saying is (and hopefully this isn't true), you could have been hit hard enough to have had structural damage which would need correcting.
i'd probably be bringing my vehicle to the dealership for inspection, or a really good collision center. i'd probably be making a claim on my insurance unfortunately.
so you have no indication that the other party was at fault?
good luck.
some parking lot designs actually make the possibility of a collision more likely.
good luck.
But non breaking area of rotor surface, toward hub is very rusted. Unevenly formed thick layer of rust. Is that can cause “cooee”, “cooee” noise before coming to full stop after breaking for couple of times prior to this?
Noise started after tire rotation. This happened several time in the past. After tire rotation or break inspection right hand front wheel would start making noise. Is it due to improperly torqued lug nuts and/or rusty rotor in the non breaking surface? What could go wrong with tire rotation or break inspection so that wheel would start making noise? In both the cases tire is removed and fixed again.
Has anyone had similar problem ?
Perhaps they are not tightening the lug nuts correctly (by using a mis-adjusted air gun), and your whole wheel is slightly loose and wobbles slightly when turning.
Thanks FJB323
alternator, "Tires, tires, tires" #6259, 24 Sep 2007 2:11 pm
I am just wondering what the standard factory warranty is on the 2006 Accord, How many years, miles? Also what mileage should I consider selling my car. My lease mileage allows 36k, but would like to sell before then, so that my value stays up. Let me know what you think. I have 25k on my 06 SE accord. I know that KBB, NADA value, Selling it privately will be the best value, plus, if I sell before warranty is up, that will be a plus too!
Thank You!
Powertrain = 5/60k
You seem to be indicating you could buy out the vehicle earlier than the 36 month and effectively selling it privately. If the lease has language that allows you to buy out earlier, aren't you on the hook for the residual lease charges (ie...their financing profit in the remaining months)??
Is the leasing company willing to give up their already committed and locked in profit?
Yes it would be more expensive for me to buy it out now, when I could have done it from the start, but most do not realize that they can sell their leased cars, as long as the company has the payoff amount. Also, if you try to sell a car with fast depreciation, you'll find yourself in the negative. Honda, I can get most or all of it back.
Dealers have already given me full pay off on my car as a trade in!
Im considering purchasing an 04 Accord V6. Im currently driving a 94 and Love it to pieces. I have found one for $11,000 with almost 60k miles (private seller). I think its a great price However, there's a nice ding above the rear Wheel well and a tad bit of rust. Otherwise the car is like brand new!Has all the whistles and bells! New tires and brakes will also be put on if I do decide to purchase. I do have some good connections at a Honda dealership and would probably be to get this repaired at a good price. I have gotten some mixed opinions from everyone. If anyone has any comments or suggestions please REPLY. I also have pic's if you wanted to take a look. Thanks ">
Car engines can burn oil forever, as long as it doesn't all get used up.
THANKS!!!! for any suggestions.
slot near the shifter.
Push down the key while press the shift release
button and move the shifter to other positions
and back to Park. Remove the key and start
the car again.
Don't forget to pull on E-brake if the car is on an incline.