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I am buying a 4-cyl this time for it's reliability & gas mileage. I've owned 3 "top-of-the-line" Honda V6 cars over the past 6 years ans they all had major mechanical problems. Friends with the 4-cyl models had no major issues.
Lastly, have you looked into a new '07? There are great deals & financing specials right now. Used Hondas are very pricey especially dealer certified cars.
Are you just wanting to pick up an extra car or are you replacing an existing vehilce?
Really? Must be a defective manual. :confuse:
You wrote I see no reason to pay full boat at the dealer. That is correct regarding the 2007's, the final model year of production of seventh generation Accord. The 2008's, that will be in showrooms in September, are the first model year of the entirely new eighth generation Accord. If you want to have a 2008, you WILL have to pay full boat at the dealer for a minimum of six months.
Based on what we paid exactly 2 years ago for our equivalent '05 Accord (V6 EX leather), I'd say there is some "room" for negotiation here... Maybe wait another couple weeks? We payed about $23k, don't remember the exact amount...
If you lost it, call the dealer where you bought the car and give them the serial # of
your radio which can be found in the
glove compartment.
I am looking for some advice...I went back and looked back at the other posts, but I could find any posts that fixed the weird squeaky rattle in the rear of the car. Does anyone know what to do about that?
Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks.
Easy
Yours could be anything from a loose license plate, a folding seatback that has not been fully latched into the upright position, a tire jack that may not have been securely stored, a spare tire that may not have been securely stored, to a poltergeist, etc.
By the way, is this a common thing and should the tech. know what I am talking about?
Thanks
Erik
Moreover, I would stay away from a 3 yr. old car at the dealer. I don't how its done in other part of the country, but here, in the NY area, the dealers way overprice their used inventory so as to make it more attractive to just jump another $2-$3,000 and get into a new car.
Nowhere around here will you find a used 2003-2007 for a 40% discount unless it has over 100,000 miles on it. If you do, run (don't walk) away b/c its probably either a salvage wreck that's been rebuilt or a Katrina flood damaged car that's been moved across a state line.
-FS
I thought somehow I had left something running and that had drained the battery and if I drove for a while the battery would get recharged. Big mistake. As I stop at a red light a couple of minutes later, the car dies on me again and it won't start. The weird thing is that with the dead battery, the shift could not even be changed out of park even with the ignition in the "on" position, and I couldn't move the car out of traffic. You see, in order to save the battery from draining while at the stop light, I put the shift in park, which allowed me to get my foot off the brake, thus not using the brake light. Also, I was trying to get the rev higher so the battery would recharge a little faster.
Finally, I was able to get another jump start and I took the car directly to a Honda dealer nearby. When they tested the battery, they confirmed that it was completely dead and was holding zero charge. Luckily they replaced the battery under warranty (car is two years old). As I'm leaving the dealer sort of relieved that the problem had been solved at no cost to me (or so I thought) I notice that the "check engine" light is now on.
I go back to the dealer and explain that I'm pretty sure the "check engine" light on is related to the battery problem and the engine must have misfired somehow during the jump starts. After all, what are the odds of two things going wrong on an 2-yr old Accord on the same day? The advisor is pretty adamant that the check engine light is completely unrelated to the battery and it could not have been caused by the battery and wants $100 to run a diagnostic test. Worse, he could not (or would not) just reset the light without running this diagnostic. I just walked out of the dealer in frustration.
The next morning, when I start the engine, the check engine light is gone. Needless to say it was a frustrating day, but luckily ended up on a positive (or at least neutral) note. As I'm sitting in traffic with a dead car with ten other cars behind me mad at me (remember, I could not even get my hazard lights going, so people would not even realize that I was having car trouble until they were right behind me at the light) I couldn't help but to think the reason you drive a new car is so that you avoid things like this from happening.
Other than this the car has worked perfectly over the last couple of years. Let's hope this was just a one time major fluke. Thanks for listening.
Joon.
I've not heard of a drained battery causing check engine light but...something that would cause a check engine light to come on could have caused a battery to drain abnormally. Sounds like you might be having trouble with the battery being recharged.
Not that it would happen but do not be shocked if the new battery dies and that you have a recharging issue.
And a automaticall resetable Check Engine light that happens is if the gas cap seal isn't perfect it warns you and after sealing completely the light goes away.
Hopefully you don't experience any more issues.
Stay Safe!
I cannot believe this happend to me since I bought the car brand new and am not an aggressive driver/braker...
I read postings here on brake problems on 2004-06 Accords. But I really didn't expect to have front brake pads replaced this soon.
Under normal driving condition (no frequent hard brakes), whats the mileage on a set of front pads and rotors, respectively?
How about the rear drum and shoes on my car? How many miles will they last? I had my rear drum brake serviced at 12K due to noise coming from them. Honda Service told me it was due to rusts inside the drum. They had it resurfaced.
Did it make sense?
Please share your experience and information. Thanks.
a battery should last a min of 4 years. now, what would kill a battery is a marginal alternator, and it sounds to me like the service shop skipped a step, namely, after replacing the dead battery, do a check on the alternator and see if the problem with the battery loosing its charge is related.
An Autozone would have done that for you!
Geesh, 100 to read the codes, when they will do that for free at Autozone.
Something doesn't seem right; I think a good shop would have put the scanner on it and read the code. It would have taken them all of 20seconds to do it.
I think something is wrong here. If you don't ride with your foot on the brake pedal, they are probably dragging. I have the 03 V6 Accord (which is heavier) and my pads still look good at 48k miles. Many people have been having brake problems, but most people are having trouble with the rear brakes wearing fast. Personally I would jack the car up, turn each wheel by hand, and see If dragging brakes are obvious. Good luck.
next week after 43K+ miles. My rear pads don't wear faster
that the front pads. The left front pad has a little over
1/16 inch before touching the worn out indicator. The
right front has about 1/8 inch. The rear pads have almost
3/16 inch left. The rear pads I think I can get another 10K miles out of them. But the left front pad is a concern.
I hope my next sets of pads and rotors are as good as the
original ones.
Coming from an 89 Accord which I had the pads replaced and the rotors resurfaced every 24K miles, I am happy with 43K+
miles on my 03EXV6.
Elroy,
Do you still have the original Michelin tires on your V6?
I'll need to replace them in a few months (3K miles more).
Just want to see if I have a good mileage out of my 4 tires.
Do you still have the original Michelin tires on your V6?
I'll need to replace them in a few months (3K miles more).
Just want to see if I have a good mileage out of my 4 tires.
The original Michelins were replaced at 42k miles. One of them was damaged, and I didn't want to buy more Michelin tires. My previous Accord also had Michelin MXV4 tires, and I find they are prone to road damage. They never lasted until the tread had worn down (always a belt torn or bulge somewhere). Not a durable tire in my opinion. The MXV4's are designed to be fuel efficient, smooth riding, and semi-quiet. The traction however, is not good when dry, and even worse when the road is wet. I decided to go with the Bridgestone Turanza LS-V tires as replacements. They cost a little less, and the traction is great. The tires are heavier so the mileage is not as good. The ride is just as good as the Michelins, they are a little quieter, and the wet traction is amazing. I think a tire should perform best when I need it the most (when the road is slippery). I am not saying these are the best tires for everyone. Some tires can probably give you a smoother ride than the Turanza's. I really value wet traction (it rains a lot in Southern Louisiana). I suggest you visit tirerack.com, read the tire reviews, tests, and surveys, and pick the tires that suit your needs and wants best. Happy tire hunting
First of all, today there's an enormous reliance on batteries to do stuff for us, compared, for an extreme example, to my 1967 Rambler American, whose electrical system included an AM radio, headlights and the spark plugs. Now we have lock/unlock, beeping, interior lighting all over the place, computers, clocks and so on, all of which we call on or expect to operate when the engine is off, that is, when no recharging is taking place.
So, heavy drain, recharge, heavy drain again, recharge, and so on. I had a massive failure like yours with my 2004 Camry on Christmas Eve at 40K. Stopped at three stores. First two perfectly okay, third one--dead, nothing, complete battery heart attack so to speak. Jump started it with my wife's Windstar and barely made it home. Bought a cheap replacement ($75--anything that keeps you going for under a hundred bucks is cheap') at Kragen and have lived happily ever after.
Also, where do you live? I am in San Diego--the heat assault here on batteries is incredible. Extreme heat or cold may have contributed.
My Honda dealer does a battery check with each oil change. We have a 2006 Accord as well as the Camry. I presume we might get some warning but probably not.
Check Engine light on Accord is very sensitive, can show for loose gascap.
To sum up, you probably have zero problems, just a slightly short-lived battery. But get the recharging system checked for peace of mind.
We should probably change the battery preemptively, after three to four years, like we do the serp belt and other stuff.
Coincidently I also live in the San Diego area. If anything, the weather around here is pretty mild in comparison to the intense heat and humidity in the summer and extreme cold in the winter in a lot of other places. But it has been a little hot in the last few days. Yes, my dealer also does a battery check every time I have my oil changed (I take my car to Pacific Honda in Kearny Mesa) and on my last oil change last month the battery test showed a full charge. I have owned a few cars before and usually before a battery is about to go bad, it gives you plenty of warning signs like the engine cranking up a little longer before starting, lights, radio, etc. getting dimmer when you try to start the car, etc. In this case it happened without any warning at all. Boom! Just died! Also, I'm usually very conscious and methodical about turning the A/C, radio, lights, etc, off before starting the engine and, in fact, before turning the engine off as well.
One interesting thing about this experience is that when I took it to the dealer (again, Pacific Honda) they didn't hesitate at all and just replaced the battery under warranty, as if this was a common occurrence. Worse yet, they didn't give me any paperwork for the battery replacement under warranty. I thought this was a little odd, actually, but didn't want to raise the issue since my car has 45k miles and I thought they may be replacing the battery under warranty as a good will gesture. My point is, I felt this may be a common problem and Honda was somehow trying to address it without making too much noise. Who knows?
Next time I bring my car for service I'll make sure they test the electrical system to make sure the battery is being charged properly. Thanks.
Joon.
My car has 45k miles (although it is only 2 years old) so the basic warranty has expired. I'm not sure if the battery is under a separate warranty. In any event, the dealer replaced the battery for free. I'm not sure if because it was still under warranty or a good will replacement.
Yes, if you try to get the codes read at a dealer they will charge you for. Then, if you get your car serviced there to fix the problem that caused the engine light to come on, then they will credit the $100 toward the bill.
I'm aware that places like Autozone will read the codes for free. I hear though, that they are reluctant to reset the light.
I drive an 80/20 combination of highway / local roads, but my highway driving includes some rush hour traffic, so it involves some braking. I wouldn't say, though, that I use my brakes more often than the average driver. In other car I have owned in the past, my brake pads would last 45-50k miles under similar driving conditions.
Just my experience.
They cleaned the rusts and no noise since 12K (now 20K).
BTW, after replacing the front brake pads. The brake is now sensitive and brake pedal is much higher than it used to be. I was told it's because the new pads are much thicker, which raised the brake pedal into a higher position. I'm NOT really used to this higher pedal position but they said after 100 miles I should be getting used to it.
What's your experience? I don't recall if the brake pedal was this high when I took delivery of the car brand new. Honda Services said they used different parts than the original manufacturer's ones. Is this true?
Please share your experience.
They cleaned the rusts and no noise since 12K (now 20K).
Don't worry, our 2000 Odyssey had a little noise which was due to some light rust buildup. It was cleaned, and that fixed the problem. Sounds like yours is the same. (We didn't have many miles on the van).
How come the rusting problem happening so often - every 10K on my 06' Accord? I had a VW Jetta which I drove for over 90K and never had any problems with rusts built-up in rear. Both the front/rear (drum) lasted over 50K on a set.
I am not sure if you guys keep using the dealer after any warranty work or if you prefer to use dealers, even after, but I have a San Diego mechanic who is top notch.
I know there are some solicitation guidelines so make sure to send me a private message or post it and I'll send you one.
He is near the Pyramid on Mirmar.
I used to work for a good friend who owns a luxury car dealership here in San Diego and we hooked up with this guy and he blew us out of the water.
He always shoots straight. Tells you exactly what is going on. Even does small stuff for free. And the rare times he makes a mistake he lets you know and then rectifies things at his cost.
You don't even need to mention I sent you to him. I would say next time you are going to go for a service of any type, he can do it all, that you have to pay for just shop him. You'll see he doesn't inflate prices and gives high quality service.
I am very confident if you try him you will not want to go anywhere else. He is always slammed with business so you may need to let him know I am sending you so he jumps on it more than usual for me. Or don't and see the standard walk-in service. Anyway I'm sure it will still be at the top of any place you have been to.
Let me know.
PS - I'm at 12K on my 07 EX 4cyl. No brake issues for me, yet?!?!?
This sounds like an independent mechanic but let me take this opportunity to invite everyone to drop by our Dealer Ratings & Review feature to give us your feedback on sales and/or services at any dealership you've, um, dealt with.
Also has everyone noticed how small Honda car batteries now are? The are perhaps moving toward higher corporate gas mileage incrementally, that is, by making a host of small changes. including smaller, lighter batteries (which may fail earlier).
metalibrarian
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S