Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

denk4

I have a 2005 Honda Accord. Sometimes when you brake, the engine revs and the car wants to jerk forward. I release the brake and reaply the brake...it seems to be fine. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

dairyshick

I have the V6 6MT Sedan and thoroughly enjoy it. However, ever since I've owned it, I'll occasionally notice this slight resistance when I shift to 3rd gear. It is most noticeable when it's cooler out or when I first start out in the morning, and gets better to the point of disappearing after driving for a while. The problem has never stopped me from shifting into 3rd, but at times, i'll go to shift to 3rd and release the clutch before it's all the way in because of the kink I hit and I'll end up grinding the gears.

I really didn't think much of it for a while, but I was reading a review of the civic Si on edmunds a while back and it seemed to mention this same type of problem.

Any input or knowledge of this issue would be appreciated!

thegraduate

Read your owners manual. The "grade-logic control" transmission system uses engine braking sometimes by downshifting the car to third gear when it senses you are braking on a hill.

elroy5

You are not alone. I have read about quite a few people having difficulty shifting into 3rd gear. It seems to be the most difficult gear, in all manuals. Some have found a short-shifter to be helpful.

calhusker

I have a 2004 Accord and am experiencing the same problems with my FM radio connections. Did you get any answer to your questions? Also, why would AM radio not work at all, but FM works fine?

hondalova

Car has been to F-H 3 times now. The reprogramming definitely solved the lean condition code they were getting. It hasn't come back, but the multiple misfire codes stored several times since then (general+all six cylinders). They are as stumped as I am - largely b/c, while they can download the stored codes, the car runs perfectly whenever it has been with them and the electronics all test out properly.

F-H was great - they were even very patient when I threw a 1st class hissy fit at the service supervisor after learning they couldn't find a problem (they spent several hours over 2 days going through the Honda Troubleshoot procedure and trying to get the car to code again, but it wouldn't).

Their philosophy (and rightfully so) is that they won't replace a part unless they know it needs replacing so, so far, no repair and, at least for now, no more light.

I'm starting to give serious consideration to just replacing the whole throttle body - I'm told that would include the MAP sensor and the Throttle Position sensor, as well as the IACV - three of the four potential problem sources. Oh, and BTW, I was told that this model Accord V-6 has no Mass Airflow Sensor - that sensor's job is all handled by whatever the O2 sensors have evolved into.

Anyway, as always, ideas, thoughts, painkillers - all are welcome. In the meantime, I'm gonna drive it until it codes again and then either bring it back to F-H or wrap it around a pole and put myself outta this misery.

-FS

stickguy

Refresh my memory. I know you are getting these codes, but how does the car run at the time? Are you hearing the knocking, running poorly, or what?

Sometimes it is the light (or the logic or input deciding to throw it) that is the problem. I guess that would be like getting a false positive?

Looks like you have 3 basic choices. Ignore the problem (reset the light if it bothers you), throw $$ at it until you replace the right part, or my personal favorite, drive on down to the dealer (while the light is out!) and trade the darn thing in!

hondalova

It usually happens at start-up, cold, in my garage or in my parking spot at work after sitting all day before I go home. I start the car, I feel it misfiring (remember, a misfiring Honda is still smoother than most other normal running cars) and then engine light comes on and stays on. Sometimes it just lights up and stays on, and others, it flashes multiple times (misfire indicator) until it goes on steady. Car then stores P300 through P306. No knocking or other audible symptoms, other than the misfire. THe misfire is usually mild, though once or twice its been on the rougher side.

Problem is, I drive the damn car so much that, by the time I can get it to the shop, the car resets. So, while they find the stored codes, they can't seem to get it to do it while its with them.

The only thing I've noticed is that it happened a lot last summer and then largely stopped as it got cold throughout the winter - starting again when it got warm this spring.

Its makin' me @#$%^U*( nuts!

-FS

user777

a temp related electronic flakey perhaps. it's possible the PCM / ECU has a cold solder joint or a hairline fracture in a circuit board trace. possibly a marginal fuel pump, or fuel pump relay.

can the dealer replace these starting with the fuel pump relay, then the ECU/PCM, then the fuel pump and see if one of them clears things up? it may be time to start swapping stuff.

mamamia2

Our '05 V6 Accord has 13,000 miles. Since a year ago it developped this subtle problem which I asked about here but nobody responded.... My wife drives the car, so after a long time of not driving it, I took it for a short, slow speed drive... I noticed it immediately:

When pressing the brake pedal it feels, AT THE VERY BEGINNING of its movement down, a slight "grinding" vibration, as if the pedal (or is there a cable?) needs some lubrication.

It also happens sometimes when I slowly lift my foot up. Also, there is a "click" sometimes when the pedal travels back up.

Any ideas?

kiawah

You need someone to crawl around and check everything out, both at your wheels and under the dash with your pedal. Your car is under warranty, take it back to the dealer and don't waste your time trying to figure this out youself.

thegraduate

I have this happen every now and then. It is usually after the brakes have been wet, and a thin layer of oxidation has formed on the rotors. Driving them a minute and using the brakes usually clears the problem right up.

Are you sure this isn't the issue?

mamamia2

No, the slight grinding/vibration sensation seems like from the PEDAL itself, when moving down, not from the wheels. And it doesn't only happen when first applying the brakes, it could do it anytime. Also, I can detect it driving at slow speed, when gently applying the brakes, not on the highway, for instance.

Is this kind of testing and fixing (unless something is really "broken") still covered under warranty? I thought this kind of a problem is covered only during the FIRST year of ownership....

elroy5

Is this kind of testing and fixing (unless something is really "broken") still covered under warranty? I thought this kind of a problem is covered only during the FIRST year of ownership....

If you are not over 36,000 miles or 3 years, it is covered under the regular warranty. Bring it in to the dealer.

bvdj84

Is it normal for my brakes w/ 19k miles to squeek a just a little, almost to the point of barely there, When my windows are down, I cant very faintly hear a high pitch sound, but only at a certain point when I push the brake, its very soft. I did have my rotors, and calipers replaced about 2k or less miles ago, only because they were rusting deeply, only cosmetic, and honda decided to replace them. I am worried only because they messed with the brake system. They did not replace the pads. I do mostly highway driving, and little city driving. Or am I getting paranoid for no reason, and it is normal for some break squeal. My moms 04 jetta squealed shortly after she got her car new. Its probably nothing. Plus, I'll be trading in this fall, but it still makes me wonder. honda did tell me, people have had to replace brakes at 24k before, but only for the hard drivers, I am not a hard driver.

kiawah

I think paranoid.

If they just replaced your calipers and rotors 2K miles ago, if you were anywhere near low on your pads...they would have replaced them as well.

If you want to get comfortable yourself, jack up the wheel and take the tire off, then look at the thickness of the brake pad, on both sides of the rotor.

hondalova

This is NY baby - EVERYTHING is expensive. The relay is probably the cheapest, but the ECU/PCM would probably cost a fortune.

I'm more likely to try swapping the entire throttle body first - that gets me a new IACV, a new TPS, and a new MAP sensor, all in one fell swoop. What do you think about that as a first plan of action?

While I agree that some experimental replacement therapy is in order, if I have to put $2,000 of guesswork into this car, I'm just going to drive it like it is for a while and then put $2,000 of downpayment on a new Nissan Altima 3.5 SE.

Thanks for the assist.

-FS

blacklx1

Hi everyone, I have a 2005 LX coupe w/ 5spA and 50K miles. I have two questions, one being - although this can vary, what is the typical life of brake pads? I owned a different car and changed them out every 30K because they wore out, I have yet to do it in the Accord. Second, I recently got an oil change at the dealer and they said that my fluids were dirty and needed servicing. The owner's manual doesn't have any fluid changes, except for the brake fluid at 60K or 3 years. Any advice would be appreciated....I live in Houston if that matters.

elroy5

blacklx1,
I have an 03 V6, and the pads are still good at 47k miles. For some people this is normal, for some it's not. We are obviously pretty easy on our brakes. :shades:

As far as the fluid changes, it would depend on what fluids they are talking about. I have changed my brake fluid, transmission fluid twice, and my coolant recently. The coolant probably wasn't necessary, but things I can't see (the inside of the engine, transmission, and radiator) I tend to be overly cautious about.

PS: I do my own maintenance, so I can afford to do it more often (cheaper). Use only Honda fluids

nativetxn

Hi everyone,

I have an '06 Accord SE with about 20K miles on it. As of last week, the SRS light starting coming on after I drive the car about 3 miles. It stays on until I shut the car off.

I took the car to the dealer yesterday and they said there were no error codes. They told me something as light as a cell phone on the passenger seat could set the light off. This morning I made sure NOTHING was on the passenger seat and (as I expected) the light came on after a few miles of driving.

Is anyone else having this issue? Thanks for any help!

Perplexed in NJ.

tallman1

I can't remember the exact weight but a cell phone would not be heavy enough to shut off the airbag. I put things on my passenger seat all the time and the only time it went off was when I had a fairly heavy briefcase on it. Something else is wrong.

wynmc

I took my '02 accord in to the dealership for the same problem. They said aftermarket devices could cause it to come on. I did some research on the net and found tht it was a common problem; there was a recall on the OPDS sensor. The dealer fixed it under warranty and the light hasn't come back on since. I recommend you tell the dealer service manager about the OPDS sensor.

nativetxn

Thanks!

The paranoid part of my brain thought the dealer was just trying to get out of doing some work where I wouldn't be paying them. I'll take it back to them and get them to fix the problem.

Now a stupid question: this is my first new car. I've never had a car before this under any sort of warranty. Can I take it to any Honda dealership for this repair or does the warranty work have to be done at the dealership where I purchased the car?

kiawah

Any Honda dealership

w9cw

Although fluid technology and formulation is constantly advancing, many believe fluid changes should be changed at these intervals:

ATF - Every 24,000 or 2 Years

Coolant - Every 24,000 or 2 Years

Brake Fluid - Every 36,000 or 3 Years

Power Steering Fluid - Every 36,000 or 3 Years

Coolant, and especially the brake and power steering fluid, are the most often ignored maintenance items, and should be changed on a regular basis. It's especially true for coolant/anti-freeze in an all aluminum engine as in Honda, as corrosion will follow once inhibitors start to deplete in the coolant. Replacement of brake fluid is most often ignored here in the USA, but is done regularly in Europe.

blacklx1

Thanks and thanks elroy5 for the advice. I'll leave my brake pads as is until they start squeaking, and will look into servicing my car for the fluids.

blufz1

Be sure to use Honda brand ATF. The trans is particular.

roller15

Hi,

My 2006 V6 sedan has about 6800 miles now.
I notice an irritating vibration around 1500 rpm
on the gas pedal and steering wheel. Above 2000 rpm it is real smooth and I love the feel.

Vibration is more prominent when the engine is under load -
uphill for example. Around town I find myself around 1500 rpm several times unless I shift to D3

Has anyone faced something like this?
Thought it will go away after the engine breaks-in
and the first oil change..
I am going to visit the local dealer and have them check
it out.

- Richard.

accord6mt

I had a strange vibration from 1900 - 2100 rpm when my car was new. The vibration occurred regardless of gear (I have a manual) or speed - it happened every time the engine was accelerating and passed through the 1900 to 2100 rpm range.

The vibration seems to have worked itself out after several thousand miles and I'm still very pleased with my car.

Good luck!

roller15

Well,

With the manual it may be a bit different,
I think the manual versions have a dual stage variable intake that helps low-end torque.

I am starting to suspect the auto sedan has a little
inadequate torque at 1500-2000 rpm to pull 3400 lbs
comfortably in 4th or 5th gear, both of which are overdrive.

If the shifter had a D4 position, it might have helped..

elroy5

I think the vibrations are engine mount related, and will happen with either transmission (standard or auto). My V6 (auto) does not vibrate at any rpm, that I can tell.

tomhawk1

I have a 2003 Honda Accord. Today while my A/C was on it just stopped. I turned it off and turned it back on and it took maybe 10 seconds or so but then turned on again. Then I turned car off went into a store. When I got back in car now it does not go on at all. Nothing works, the a/c, heat, defrost, etc. Turning the dial does nothing. No air is blowing whatsoever.

Does anyone know what this is. I already checked the fuses and it is not that.

Thanks

accord6mt

I don't know how things are wired in the Accord, but could it be the wiring harness for all of the A/C/ventilation components? Perhaps the harness is loose and that's why you're getting sporadic power...?

A shot in the dark - good luck!

dudleyr

I have about 9,000 miles on my 2007 Accord SE, and have noticed that the windows rattle (all but the front passenger) when going up or down. kind of like they are too loose in the tracks.

I see a few others have had similar problems. How was this resolved?

blufz1

Reduction in excessive coasting.

elroy5

tomhawk1, get your battery tested. I had a similar problem (the shift position lights would not work, at the same time the A/C would not work), and the battery was the problem. Even if the car starts without a problem, all those relays and switches Honda is famous for need a lot of power. Autozone tested my battery for free, and I didn't even have to take it out of the car. Good luck.

dudleyr

Reduction in excessive coasting.

Where is the emotorcon with the eyes rolling back into the head.? I guess this will have to do. :P

tallman1

Search for past messages here from me or check out the 07 M&R thread because I just posted the link there when someone asked about rattles.

dudleyr

Thanks - didn't realize there was a seperate area for 2007.

tallman1

a seperate area for 2007.

Yeah, seems kind of silly since the 06 and 07 are pretty much identical.

buyahome

I'm pretty certain that only 6 cylinder 2004 Accords need a timing belt replacement at 60,000 and the 4 cylinder Accord in 2004 have METAL timing belts and do NOT need to be replaced.

elroy5

The 4cyl. has a timing chain, and the belt on the V6 doesn't require changing until 105k miles. 60k miles is only for extreme climates (below -20 degrees F, and above 120 degrees F). I don't know of any places where the temperature gets that high, or low on a regular basis.

blane

elroy5,

Its guaranteed that in whatever part of the country anyone lives, the dealership's Service Advisor will insist that the customer's vehicle is driven under SEVERE, rather than NORMAL conditions. They sell a lot more premature oil changes, transmission flush jobs, belt changes, etc. that way.

The Owner's Manuals are weasel-worded just enough to create doubts in customers' minds.

elroy5

105k miles is for SEVERE conditions. Where do you think you would have to drive, that conditions are "regularly" above 110 F, or below -20 F (very extreme climates)? I don't think any Honda service department would tell a customer the timing belt should be changed at 60k miles (not even in Alaska or somewhere near the equator).

dudleyr

I don't know of any places where the temperature gets that high, or low on a regular basis.

Come vist SD. While not regular, we hit 121 in the shade last summer and -20 is a long way from breaking any records in the winter. So we are pushing both ends of the extremes.

elroy5

If the temperature gets above 110 F or below -20 F on a REGULAR BASIS, go ahead and change the timing belt at 60k miles. I don't think it gets that extreme (on a regular basis), even in SD.

roller15

Ok,

So I went to the dealer, they drove it around, compared with some 07s on the lot and finally say it is "normal".

They were very courteous and all but perhaps a little hesitant to really spend time investigating..Saying remind them the next oil change.. It was a weekday and I did not have much time to spend there

Interestingly, I have found the vibrations are less intense if I start off by putting the tranny into "D" from "P", skipping R.. If I go P -> R and later D, the vibrations are more pronounced. Seems like engine or transmission mount related.

I have ordered the Accord Service manual and will study the behavior before going back to the dealer.

In the meantime, if anyone has any comments they are most welcome.

- Richard.

bvdj84

I have an 06 accord, I was wondering if I drive my car hard, revving the 4cyl engine to high rpm's, not redline, but pushing hard, if that hurts my engine? Although I have only really done that like twice since I have owned it, just to see how the engine wound up. Seriously though, could that hurt my car by driving it hard. I could not EVER see myself doing that to my baby all the time. If anyone really knows, let me know. or maybe I am just paranoid. I am so careful with my car.

Let me know. thanx

elroy5

Obviously the more pressure you put on parts, the faster they will wear. But from what you say in your post, you will not do it often enough to make a difference in longevity. In other words, have a little fun once in a while, no problem.

thegraduate

Wind it up once in a while, you aren't going to hurt anything worthwhile as long as you keep it below redline and keep the engine oil changed per-maintenance minder.