Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

guiseppe

Have a 2003 ex v6 and today the tcs light and the (dashboard) brake light came on. I have not read much about this condition here but i have seen TSBs from honda (thru the NHTSA site) which point to a brake light switch. The two TSBs are as folows, nhtsa id #10013649 and #10016352. Can anybody shed a little light on this condition?

pastatie

The magnet bra people still have a website I believe. Sorry I don't know for sure but that is the site you could get on google. You hit the nail on the head about the Honda bra. The beauty of the magnet bra is the entire surface is magnetized. Make sure your hood is clean, dry, waxed and then place the bra on the leading @6 inches of the hood. It stays in place--no worries about loose vinyl or straps. They supply a u-shape edging that secures it along the front and sides. Close the hood and even water doesn't get under it. I wouldn't leave it on forever because I only use it on the highway. I believe there were only two choices in color and when I bought it there was no color match to it.
The bugs have to be doing a job to your a/c condenser. Are you considering a grill guard?

elroy5

The bugs have to be doing a job to your a/c condenser. Are you considering a grill guard?

I use the high pressure spray at the car wash to get them out of the condenser. Wouldn't it be just as hard to get them off of the grill guard?

What colors do the magnet bras come in? Black, I would assume, and what else? My car is black, so it would be the logical choice.

blane

guiseppe,

It sounds like you pressed the TCS OFF button below the air vent to the left of your steering wheel. When you press that button you turn your Traction Control System off. The light on your dashboard is warning you to consider turning it back on.

It is clearly explained in your Owner's Manual.

hondalova

F!@#$%G CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AGAIN.

This time it blinked about 12 times before going to steady light (i.e. misfire codes). The engine ran rough when this happened before leveling out a moment later.

I got a ticket from a state trooper last week - stuck in traffic, light comes on, car starts to stall, so I pull off into one of those "No U-Turn" medians. Another idiot, thinking I'm turning instead of stopping, pulls off behind me and honks, attracting zippy the friendly state trooper, who flies over and writes me.

Help please. Not sure if I should kill the car, or just myself.

-FS

elroy5

Is there another dealer in your area? Seems like someone would have experienced this problem before, and found a solution. Has the service department consulted with other shops or Honda about this problem?

kiawah

I think I hear a new 2008 Accord calling your name softly......ohh Hondalova, I can make all your problems go away !!!

elroy5

hondalova, this is a response from another site. From someone who has had your problem. Hope it helps, and good luck solving it.

"I had this problem, and it was the primary o2 sensor (happened twice) and it is not an uncommon occurrence with 7th gens unfortunately. Also, its a hefty 125 bucks from the dealer, but it should solve the problem. However, mine didn't misfire, but if set at idle for too long, it would knock hard, and nearly stall out, and stall out sometimes, coming from the a/f being too lean. Maybe since it was running too lean for so long that something was damaged in the fuel system?
Have you had your injectors checked? You say that if you get a fairly linear response if you don't go full throttle, then that would make sense if you're injectors aren't getting fully open, where you depress full throttle to get them to do so.

That's my guess. My bet is on the injectors."

guiseppe

blane,

i am familiar with the tcs off button...this is dasboard light next to the tcs off button. additionally the brake light is on also. both lights com on after i start the car.

hondalova

Thanks for the thoughts, but I'm leaning towards Mass Airflow or Idle Air sensor at this point. My symptoms are a little different - car idles rough at startup b/c its misfiring (CEL blinks about 12 times and then goes on steady). It has never knocked and, since they reprogrammed the ECU, is no longer throwing O2 sensor codes. However, it IS continuing to throw misfires on every cylinder and a general misfire code (P300 through P306 inclusive). Since this problem is affecting ALL cylinders, ALL the injectors would have to be bad at once and its unlikely that this is the problem.

I've had two different dealer techs and the guys from my current shop drive the car at different points in the car's history and all have attributed the throttle bog problem I described to being nothing more than the interference of the electronic nannies (TCS). That's three different independent opinions, so, though it sucks, I have to assume they're probably right and that's just the way this car is.

Service manager suggested a valve adjustment, which my car has never had. However, while I certainly advocate such maintenance when necessary, my car has 72k miles, virtually all of which are highway miles at 60-75 mph and I DRIVE my car, so I believe there ain't much carbon buildup in there. I'm not convinced that its the source of the problem and so its not something I want to spend $$$ on right now.

A 2008 WOULD be nice, but it ain't in my financial future - with 72k on this car, I couldn't sell it for what I'd need to get into another one. And I still have a good feeling about these guys at FormulaH - they're being methodical and thorough and they have not yet tried to empty my wallet in too unbearably large chunks (which the dealer wanted to do - remember, the dealer offered to change BOTH o2 sensors).

So, while I may be a little inconvenienced over the next few weeks, I hope and believe we are moving towards getting at the bottom of it.

But I appreciate all of the suggestions and help in diagnosing it - thanks to all you, I have a better picture of what the issue is and where to look.

Thanks again!

-FS

elroy5

Here's a scan of the brake position switch, if you want to take a look at it. Good luck

elroy5

I was thinking it may be the O2 sensor, and not the fuel injectors, myself. Did they ever test them?

hondalova

I believe that all four are operating properly - none has thrown a code since the ECU was reprogrammed. Remember, this is affecting all six cylinders, so unless the uptake or exhaust sensors for both banks are malfunctioning, its unlikely that its the O2 sensor.

A while back, I think it was you had mentioned Mass Airflow, TPS, and/or Idle Air Control Valve as possible sources. Tell me more about the IACV - as my common sense tells me its either this or MAF.

My problem happens ONLY at idle, usually at startup (though the light has come on after the car is warmed up while stopped at a stoplight). The engine idles rough b/c its misfiring and that is exactly the codes I'm getting.

Another thought that may be relevant - this problem was periodically annoying late last summer and then it went away when it got cooler out. The first day it went over 70 degrees outside, it came back, and now that its gotten hotter outside, its become almost continuous. Can't go more than 2-3 days after resetting codes before it sets a new set of misfire codes. Would temperature affect any of these sensors?

Thanks for all the help.

-FS

elroy5

Don't know about temperature affecting sensors, but it does affect the computer, and relays. Do you know if they opened up the computer to check for leaking capacitors? The tranny computer went out on my 92 Accord, and it would only screw up when the temp inside the car was really hot. I don't think temperature would have any affect on the IACV. Very confusing, isn't it?

hondalova

Don't know if they did that, but I'll ask them. I'm still intrigued by the Idle Air Control Valve - before they reprogrammed the ECU, it was throwing Lean Bank-1 codes. Car idles rough but runs OK at traveling rpm. I'm wondering if I should be looking more at IACV or MAF issue? What do you think?

-FS

user777

yeah, either the IACV of the MAF, probably the former. and the idle re-learn procedure.

say - weren't you getting the PCU replaced? i'm confusing some posts i think. sorry if so.

elroy5

In the service manual, trouble shooting for lean conditions, misfires, etc, the main sensors mentioned are MAP (manifold absolute pressure)sensor, the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor, and the O2 sensors.

The ECU and PCU are a combined unit in these cars, and are probably pretty expensive. I hope you don't have to replace it.

hondalova

PCU was on my wife's '07 Odyssey, which is still knocking anyway (Honda has a factory tech coming Tuesday to look at it).

But that's a separate problem for another board - suffice it to say you can appreciate my level of frustration with both of my cars malfunctioning at a time when we're averaging 60k miles/yr. between the two of 'em.

Two questions:

(1) Are MAF and MAP sensor the same thing?

and

(2) Are the IACV and Intake Temperature Sensor the same thing?

And, in each instance, which is the more likely culprit for my problem?

There's too much electronics in these things - I miss the good old days when you could fix things by the seat of your pants with a little common-sense!

-FS

jennm8877

Hi there. I am new to this, and I am a new Honda owner, so any advice is greatly appreciated. My maintenance required light just came on - I am suspecting that is b/c it is time for my 60,000 mile check-up. I am at 60,475. My question is: What should I expect to pay and/or have done to my car this time. Also, I am that naive female that knows nothing about cars, so I am a prime target for the dealer to "recommend" everything... What should be done at this service?

elroy5

No, they are not the same thing (MAP)manifold absolute pressure sensor, and (MAF)mass air flow sensor. IACV (intake air control valve), and IAT (intake air temperature). Honestly, I can find no mention of either the MAF, or IACV in the service manual. I scanned a couple of pages for you showing the name and location of each sensor. Hope this helps.

elroy5

Jenn, do you have an owner's manual. It should have this in the maintenance section. If you don't have an owner's manual, I can scan a page for you.

blane

jennm8877,

Your Accord's Owner's Manual has a Maintenance section that specifically identifies the manufacturer's recommended services at various intervals (mileages or months of service). Be sure to look at the proper page since the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder vehicles have slightly different schedules. There are also separate 4 & 6 cylinder pages for Normal and Severe service conditions. The dealer will ALWAYS tell you that yours fits the severe profile. It probably doesn't. Read your manual for the manufacturer's definitions.

The dealer's service department will no doubt have their own much longer list of recommended service items. Make them fully justify any extra work that they want to perform beyond that recommended by Honda. Most such extra work is not necessary, except for obvious repairs of broken equipment.

blane

Sorry elroy5. I just spotted your post.

awworker

2003 lx makes a whining noise in reverse. The noise sounds very much like a manual transmission would whine when in 1st gear, however it is an automatic. Somethig in rear axle maybe?sl10110@alltel.net thanks

guiseppe

elroy,

thanks I will take look at it. would these lights go on if the back brakes are in need of replacing?

thegraduate

No light should illuminate for brake pads/shoes in need of replacement. The brakes need replacing when you hear an audible "screech" sound coming from them when you are NOT applying the brakes.

chucko3

According to owner's manual, the two lights when came on indicate there is a problem with the braking system.
I would check for a low brake fluid first.

elroy5

The lights are indicating a problem with the braking system. If your brakes are operating normally, I think it's more likely to be an electrical malfunction than a mechanical problem. Like has been mentioned, the easiest thing to check first is the fluid (if there is a rubber thing in the cap, and it's sagging, push it back up into the cap). I don't think the fluid being low would cause the tcs light to come on, but I guess it's possible. If the brake pedal sinks, feels spongy, seems to be real hard, or actually feels like it's kicking back at your foot, that would point to a mechanical or leaking problem.

pastatie

elroy5
Was away and was not checking email. Anyhow to answer your question the bra comes in black and white BUT the new ones can be painted to match which would be an even better feature to those who do highway miles daily. The website is up for Magnetbra.

The grille guard wipes off with a sponge. No trouble at all. The spray at the wash probably would work but my luck is getting a stone/big bug hitting the condenser tube. The fins can be bent/damaged quite a bit but the tube damage would necessitate a new condenser.

htt

I took the car back to the dealer this morning. The floor got wet again. It was raining hard last couple days. I'm not sure why it's so hard to fix it. I showed them exactly where the water came from.

elroy5

I looked at some on the web-site, and it looks like they only have the part that covers the hood, and not the bumper. I want to cover the whole front end. I guess I should have known the magnet will not stick to the plastic bumper huh? :confuse:

nukdriver

I have removed the seat heater switch from my 2003 accord (to change a burned out bulb), but I cannot find a way to gain access to the bulb within the switch without breaking the plastic. Could someone help me with this please?

elroy5

You have to remove the panel as shown in the scans below. Be careful not to damage the finish. Good luck.

nukdriver

Thanks elroy5. Exactly what I needed. Now I just have to find a replacement bulb.

elroy5

Now I just have to find a replacement bulb.

Haha, that's what the "good luck" was for.

avalanche2x

I am considering changing the shift knob on my '03 Accord LX 5sp with this OEM part http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/product_info.php?pName=leather-shift-knob-accord-sedan&cName=accord-sedan-interior

Has anyone ever attempted this? Does the knob simply unscrew or does the entire shift lever need to be removed?

user777

confused. i see how the instructions show how to remove the switch... does it imply how to gain access to the bulb?

i would think this would be an assembly that might force replacing the switch in it's entirety.

user777

it probably unscrews:

scroll down and view the installation instructions here:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accint03.html

and for what it's worth:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=SHIFT+LEVER

but you can always call them to be sure

elroy5

From what it says at the bottom of the test illustration the bulbs are replaceable. I'm just wondering why there are three of them. There are only two settings Hi and Low. :confuse: The bulbs do look like some very strange little things (hid maybe). I may take a closer look at my switch to see what's up here.

nukdriver

I was initially confused, but then I realized that the 3 things that look like adjustment screws are actually the light bulbs. Rotate them 1/4 turn CCW and they come right out. I had spent an hour trying to take the rocker switch off, when I got the picture from elroy5. This led me to the right answer. Unfortunately, these are some very funky light bulbs and I am unsure if I will be able to find them. The bulbs are the components labeled B in the diagram. There are 3 bulbs, 2 amber to show Hi or Lo is on and the middle one has a blue coating which is the back-lighting for the switch when the car lights are turned on.

elroy5

Ok, back lighting, I see now. The dealer may be the only place to get these bulbs. Are all of them not working, or just one? If none of them work, the bulbs may not be the problem. Doesn't seem like they would all go out at the same time. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

user777

yeah, his post was illuminating.

a pull-it place might work. going to the Honda parts counter might be another way to go.
it must be the thing marked B-11-10 in this image:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KL5AT&catcgry5=CONSOLE

and specifically, here's the switch, but look the specific items for the switch assembly and bulbs are missing (3,4,9,10), but these two images will help the parts counter guy:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KL5AT&catcgry5=SWITCH

now perhaps the bulbs (items 7 or 11) will work. anyway, one would think 7 and 9 would bracket the pricing of 7 and 11.

are we having fun yet?
there's this on neo-wedge bulbs
http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/BSD-1838-0Ux/default.asp

i'm not in front of the switch and the bulbs that are in there. any marking on them for cross-referencing purposes? maybe you could get something here:
http://www.1000bulbs.com/search.php?search_data=neo+wedge&cat=

my feeling is though, if the dealer has them, just get either the bulb or the whole switch assembly there and be done with it.

first stop: dealership parts counter.

pat

If you use the URL button under the post box to enclose your long link within a short title you don't run the risk of making the page so wide that people have to scroll from left to right to read every single line.

elroy5

Good idea pat, I will try to do that in the future. I've always tried to do it with pictures, not so much with text though. I hate the scrolling back and forth too.

user777

funny, i don't have to scroll the page. guess my laptop has a decent screen.

actually, when i'm hunting for a url, the last thing i want to do is press more buttons to communicate information to a another poster...

but, i'll give it a spin.

pat

Thanks for noting that - you made me think to the check the page in IE which indeed handles wrapping the links in post 2467. In Firefox, those links do not wrap and cause the page to double in width (screen resolution is 1152 by 864).

Actually, the Forums software itself is supposed to be handling the link-wrapping, but there is a problem with it currently. It's on a list to get fixed, but it will probably take a while.

neumie2000

Just an FYI. I had the same bulb burn out on me. While the car was in for a state inspection, I asked the dealer to replace it. They charged me $3.50 for the bulb and absolutely nothing for the labor. For that amount of money, it may be worth just having your dealer do it during the next scheduled maintenance. Good luck!!

marshalls2

can anyone tell me how to turn off the maintance reminder light. I have done as indicated in the manuel, with no luck. It goes off for a second and then continues to be lit.

elroy5

Hold the trip meter reset button down (use left hand), turn the ignition on (with right hand), continue to hold the button down for 10 seconds, or until the light goes out. The information is in the owner's manual, if you need it again in the future.

elroy5

If you have, or do have problems with your radio display screen going dim on your 03 or 04 Accord you're in luck. The warranty has been extended to 7 years/ 100,000 miles. If you already paid to have this done, you can get reimbursed for the cost. Happy Hondaing