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Comments
The bugs have to be doing a job to your a/c condenser. Are you considering a grill guard?
I use the high pressure spray at the car wash to get them out of the condenser. Wouldn't it be just as hard to get them off of the grill guard?
What colors do the magnet bras come in? Black, I would assume, and what else? My car is black, so it would be the logical choice.
It sounds like you pressed the TCS OFF button below the air vent to the left of your steering wheel. When you press that button you turn your Traction Control System off. The light on your dashboard is warning you to consider turning it back on.
It is clearly explained in your Owner's Manual.
This time it blinked about 12 times before going to steady light (i.e. misfire codes). The engine ran rough when this happened before leveling out a moment later.
I got a ticket from a state trooper last week - stuck in traffic, light comes on, car starts to stall, so I pull off into one of those "No U-Turn" medians. Another idiot, thinking I'm turning instead of stopping, pulls off behind me and honks, attracting zippy the friendly state trooper, who flies over and writes me.
Help please. Not sure if I should kill the car, or just myself.
-FS
"I had this problem, and it was the primary o2 sensor (happened twice) and it is not an uncommon occurrence with 7th gens unfortunately. Also, its a hefty 125 bucks from the dealer, but it should solve the problem. However, mine didn't misfire, but if set at idle for too long, it would knock hard, and nearly stall out, and stall out sometimes, coming from the a/f being too lean. Maybe since it was running too lean for so long that something was damaged in the fuel system?
Have you had your injectors checked? You say that if you get a fairly linear response if you don't go full throttle, then that would make sense if you're injectors aren't getting fully open, where you depress full throttle to get them to do so.
That's my guess. My bet is on the injectors."
i am familiar with the tcs off button...this is dasboard light next to the tcs off button. additionally the brake light is on also. both lights com on after i start the car.
I've had two different dealer techs and the guys from my current shop drive the car at different points in the car's history and all have attributed the throttle bog problem I described to being nothing more than the interference of the electronic nannies (TCS). That's three different independent opinions, so, though it sucks, I have to assume they're probably right and that's just the way this car is.
Service manager suggested a valve adjustment, which my car has never had. However, while I certainly advocate such maintenance when necessary, my car has 72k miles, virtually all of which are highway miles at 60-75 mph and I DRIVE my car, so I believe there ain't much carbon buildup in there. I'm not convinced that its the source of the problem and so its not something I want to spend $$$ on right now.
A 2008 WOULD be nice, but it ain't in my financial future - with 72k on this car, I couldn't sell it for what I'd need to get into another one. And I still have a good feeling about these guys at FormulaH - they're being methodical and thorough and they have not yet tried to empty my wallet in too unbearably large chunks (which the dealer wanted to do - remember, the dealer offered to change BOTH o2 sensors).
So, while I may be a little inconvenienced over the next few weeks, I hope and believe we are moving towards getting at the bottom of it.
But I appreciate all of the suggestions and help in diagnosing it - thanks to all you, I have a better picture of what the issue is and where to look.
Thanks again!
-FS
A while back, I think it was you had mentioned Mass Airflow, TPS, and/or Idle Air Control Valve as possible sources. Tell me more about the IACV - as my common sense tells me its either this or MAF.
My problem happens ONLY at idle, usually at startup (though the light has come on after the car is warmed up while stopped at a stoplight). The engine idles rough b/c its misfiring and that is exactly the codes I'm getting.
Another thought that may be relevant - this problem was periodically annoying late last summer and then it went away when it got cooler out. The first day it went over 70 degrees outside, it came back, and now that its gotten hotter outside, its become almost continuous. Can't go more than 2-3 days after resetting codes before it sets a new set of misfire codes. Would temperature affect any of these sensors?
Thanks for all the help.
-FS
-FS
say - weren't you getting the PCU replaced? i'm confusing some posts i think. sorry if so.
The ECU and PCU are a combined unit in these cars, and are probably pretty expensive. I hope you don't have to replace it.
But that's a separate problem for another board - suffice it to say you can appreciate my level of frustration with both of my cars malfunctioning at a time when we're averaging 60k miles/yr. between the two of 'em.
Two questions:
(1) Are MAF and MAP sensor the same thing?
and
(2) Are the IACV and Intake Temperature Sensor the same thing?
And, in each instance, which is the more likely culprit for my problem?
There's too much electronics in these things - I miss the good old days when you could fix things by the seat of your pants with a little common-sense!
-FS
Your Accord's Owner's Manual has a Maintenance section that specifically identifies the manufacturer's recommended services at various intervals (mileages or months of service). Be sure to look at the proper page since the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder vehicles have slightly different schedules. There are also separate 4 & 6 cylinder pages for Normal and Severe service conditions. The dealer will ALWAYS tell you that yours fits the severe profile. It probably doesn't. Read your manual for the manufacturer's definitions.
The dealer's service department will no doubt have their own much longer list of recommended service items. Make them fully justify any extra work that they want to perform beyond that recommended by Honda. Most such extra work is not necessary, except for obvious repairs of broken equipment.
thanks I will take look at it. would these lights go on if the back brakes are in need of replacing?
I would check for a low brake fluid first.
Was away and was not checking email. Anyhow to answer your question the bra comes in black and white BUT the new ones can be painted to match which would be an even better feature to those who do highway miles daily. The website is up for Magnetbra.
The grille guard wipes off with a sponge. No trouble at all. The spray at the wash probably would work but my luck is getting a stone/big bug hitting the condenser tube. The fins can be bent/damaged quite a bit but the tube damage would necessitate a new condenser.
Haha, that's what the "good luck" was for.
Has anyone ever attempted this? Does the knob simply unscrew or does the entire shift lever need to be removed?
i would think this would be an assembly that might force replacing the switch in it's entirety.
scroll down and view the installation instructions here:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accint03.html
and for what it's worth:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=SHIFT+LEVER
but you can always call them to be sure
a pull-it place might work. going to the Honda parts counter might be another way to go.
it must be the thing marked B-11-10 in this image:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KL5AT&catcgry5=CONSOLE
and specifically, here's the switch, but look the specific items for the switch assembly and bulbs are missing (3,4,9,10), but these two images will help the parts counter guy:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KL5AT&catcgry5=SWITCH
now perhaps the bulbs (items 7 or 11) will work. anyway, one would think 7 and 9 would bracket the pricing of 7 and 11.
are we having fun yet?
there's this on neo-wedge bulbs
http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/BSD-1838-0Ux/default.asp
i'm not in front of the switch and the bulbs that are in there. any marking on them for cross-referencing purposes? maybe you could get something here:
http://www.1000bulbs.com/search.php?search_data=neo+wedge&cat=
my feeling is though, if the dealer has them, just get either the bulb or the whole switch assembly there and be done with it.
first stop: dealership parts counter.
actually, when i'm hunting for a url, the last thing i want to do is press more buttons to communicate information to a another poster...
but, i'll give it a spin.
Actually, the Forums software itself is supposed to be handling the link-wrapping, but there is a problem with it currently. It's on a list to get fixed, but it will probably take a while.