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If you don't think it is a strut, maybe it's a tie rod.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.efdf921/40!make=Honda&model=Accord&ed_mak- - eindex=.efdf921
I got my cheapest price from Mavis for a 4-corner rotor/pad change ($440) and it was well worth it, but the problem came back after 10K miles.
There's a separate forum regarding this issue alone: "Honda Accord Brake Questions" board.
Best of luck, and drive safe.
One time I drove over a long bolt and after the bolt became lodged in my tire I'd hear a loud tapping noise every time the bolt made contact with the pavement.
I might be totally off-base, but I'm trying to image what the description of your sound actually sounds like...
Good luck!
Thanks
2004 Accord V-6 Coupe m/t with 70k miles. Check Engine light keeps coming on at startup (slightly rough idle) and then resetting (after several key cycles and some driving), only to come on again the next time I start the car or sit at idle for any period more than 30-40 seconds long.
Car has stored codes for bank-1 uptake sensor stuck on permanent lean condition. However, my mechanic says that both 02 uptake sensors seem to be working properly upon inspection.
Car also stored multiple misfire codes for each and every cylinder (both banks), suggesting that the problem is either bigger than just one bank or involves more than one malfunction. I called my Honda dealer, and they cheerfully offered to replace BOTH O2 uptake sensors (if I let them suck on my wallet until its dry) but could not explain the misfire codes anomaly.
Also, and I don't know if this matters, but ever since this car was new, it tends to bog down a little when you get on the throttle hard under load (not at idle). Gradully depressing the throttle produces a fairly linear response, but flooring it makes it hesitate until you lift up a little before giving you full engine power. I always just attributed it to the electric throttle and/or the traction control nannies - you tell me.
I'm really desperate here folks - this check engine thing has been happening on and off for nearly a year now - I've changed the EGR valve, changed fuel suppliers, and pulled plugs (all are clean and unfouled) - and what was, until recently, an intermittent problem, is now becoming a persistent one.
I'm stumped.
Any ideas (and I do mean ANY) that might help would be extremely welcome.
Thanks.
-FS
OK, uptake or intake? i don't think the former exists, but could be wrong on terminology.
first off, i highly doubt BOTH O2 sensors are bad.
more than likely, the MAF (mass airflow) i.e. air intake sensor is flaky or has an intermittent connection, or is connected with a bad hose...
I think if you google, there might even be a means to clean one of these sensors...
you might have a tps (throttle position sensor) problem. you might have an idle air control valve issue (do the codes register at IDLE... does it idle poorly). maybe even a problem with plugs/wires.
but my guess is the MAF is messed up. if it's telling the unit it's getting too much or too little air, then the scheduling of fuel could be wrong. too rich or too lean, and you have a bad result.
if it's been scheduling fuel wrong for a long time, i would think your CAT convertor may have been prematurely worn.
I'd start with the MAF, then the TPS... and IACV, then i'd also be looking for loose / broken hoses in the intake / throttle area.
I would not start with the 02 sensors, but that's just me giving you ANY ideas. :shades:
Oh - and no extended warranty or I'd be tearin' my dealer a new orifice by now. However, I have not ruled out going to Honda Corporate and complaining about the car to see if they will give me any customer accomodation (this is the 3d of 4 Hondas I've purchased).
Thanks to all for the assist.
-FS
p.s. - I didn't even know these cars had an MAF sensor in addition to the O2 sensors. And by "uptake" I mean the sensor on each bank on the intake end of the motor, not the exhaust 02 sensors.
after driving. Then the problem became permanent. The CEL
was always on after starting the car.
When the CEL came on, did the idle speed stay above 1000 RPM?
Check your water temperature sensor. It's a DIY job.
It's easy to replace.
thanks
As for the catalytic converter, wouldn't it be more likely to be damaged by an excessively rich mixture rather than a permanent lean condition?
I should add that, this happened intermittently last summer and then seemed to disappear once it got cold out (I live in NY Metro area), only to return with much greater frequency since it got warm out the last week or two. However, I have ALWAYS had the throttle bogging issue since the car was new. Dealer said it was the electronic nannies and nobody else I talked to was willing to disagree.
Again thanks to ANY suggestions you have that might help (well, OK, burning the car for the insurance money, as one of my friends suggested, was NOT helpful, but you get the idea....)
A few days after I purchased the car I noticed a weird burning smell coming from under the hood, I can't put my finger on what it is (I'm not very car savvy). then a few days later, I noticed the car hesitating (during my first shift through the gears) when I drive home from work. Its weird because it doesn't do it on my way to work.
I've had two friends with hondas who have broken their timing belt, do I need it replaced already? Could it be timing? Or is it something else? I'm like everyone else here, bought a honda because I was expecting a worry free car and now here it is the first month and I am already having visions of the clutch going out, and the engine blowing up. Please help
Thanks guys!
There are a number of distinctive smells, antifreeze leaking, brakes overheating, oil leak and it burning on hot manifold, engine overheating, battery acid from overcharging, etc.
Did you have a mechanic check it over before you bought? or any mechanic after you bought it?
When they talk about electronic nannies, they are talking about electronic stability control (ESC). I don't think your car has this option, so you can cross that off the list of what it could be. Hesitation is a symptom of clogged up EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. The ports may just need to be cleaned out.
hondalova: I sent you an e-mail to your carspace account with a link to a website that will help. It mirrors what user77 is saying.
Do you have an aftermarket air filter like a K&N filter?
I believe my mechanic changed the air filter as part of our efforts to correct the problem late last summer. I should do it again as I drive about 25,000-30,000 miles per year. I'm not familiar with the K&N filter specifically, but anything my mechanic would have put in would have been either original Honda parts or an equivalent aftermarket as he's usually pretty good about that kind of stuff. I don't like to modify out of factory specs when it comes to air/fuel intake and emissions systems b/c it often leads to problems.
Thanks!
-FS
p.s. - I'm bringing the car to Formula-H in Middletown, NY on Friday. They are an aftermarket shop that specializes in diagnosing, repairing, and restoring Hondas with problems other people couldn't solve. Of course, the CEL reset itself yesterday and the car has run perfectly for a change since then! I believe it knows.
The link below shows the symptoms the OP had (very similar to your) and the proposed solution (post #7):
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=517076&highlight=P030- - 0
The reason I did not post originally is it goes to another forum which I'm not sure if it against Edmunds rules or not. If it is, they will remove it but I did e-mail it to you at your carspace account.
Good luck and let us know if it worked. It could help someone else.
www.formulah.com
They are a local shop that specializes in only Honda and Acura repairs and their motto (and their reputation) is that they can fix the cars nobody else can. They come recommended by another friend whose owned a few Hondas and had them serviced there.
I will share what I've learned here with them and post what I find out from them here after they've worked on the car.
-FS
However, they claim to have seen this problem a lot and that, about 50% of the time, just reprogramming and updating the computer, corrects it. The other 50% of the time, the reprogrammed computer still reports that one or more sensors are malfunctioning and they then need to be changed.
While they also noted the slightly bogging throttle issue, they informed me that (like the dealer had said before) it is the normal function of the traction control electronic nanny interfering and not a malfunction. My 190 horse '99 Maxima (with a direct physical link between the gas pedal and the throttle plate) responded better and felt quicker than my 240 horse Accord. What a shame.
They charged me $72 to spend about an hour road-testing and working on this and two other unrelated quirks (loose driver's seat rail and dashboard rattle) I asked them to look at. They estimated that the reprogramming would cost about an additional $100-$125. Of course a broken sensor would be an additional job.
For NY labor that sounded pretty fair and my gut says that they are being honest with me. I will report back what happens after the next visit.
Thanks again for all the help.
-FS :shades:
Does anyone else have this issue, or know why it's doing this?
Anyway, once my Accord was reprogrammed and the codes cleared and reset, they drove it around town for a while. The rough idle disappeared and the light has stayed off. I picked it up tonite - no rough idle at start-up (or when stopped at operating temp) and no engine light - drove it 20+ miles home without a problem. So far so good.
Of, course tomorrow morning's a new day and anything could still happen. But so far, its looking good.
-FS