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FWIW my Integra spent a good deal of its life wound up. It would rev close to 4,000 rpm on the highway in top gear. The revs won't hurt your engine.
Your timing belt could have skipped a cog, this would cause erratic behavior, unlikely for your miles, but possible.
maybe one or more of your ignition wires is loose or broken? at your mileage, you may need new Honda recommended plugs.
you'd have to be more specific to get more help i think.
if you are giving it more gas for it to go, is it possible you are not in proper gear? is it possible when you put it in D, you're not going up through all the gears?
first thing i'd look at is the cleanliness of the engine air filter (you can service this yourself). it's in a rectangular enclosure and feeds the engine air (engines are air pumps). if clogged, it can greatly rob performance and fuel economy.
if that isn't it, it's possible the catalytic convertor is going. when they get clogged (usually from running very rich and having unburnt fuel in the exhaust stream), the backpressure on the engine will change, robbing it of horsepower. you'll have more and more trouble going up hills over time, it shifting into lower gears to get you there.
start by going by your neighborhood autozone or other car parts store. have them run a battery / alternator load check for you (its free). 12.78VDC is voltage found on the, and 303CCA is cold crank amps which is a measure of how much current the battery can supply, at a given temperature (0degF) at a certain minimal voltage for a pre-set period of time. these numbers may be nominal. i don't know.
i think i would trust the results of a load test conducted at the parts store as to if you need a new battery.
also, open the engine air filter compartment (located under the hood). it will be a black rectangular box. top will have a fairly good size hose exiting one end going to the engine. top is probably helpd on with 4 metal clips, although could be four screws. anyway, open the top, and replace it if it is dirty removing any debris in the box before closing it back up.
new filters cost maybe 12-15 dollars at the parts store.
start there.
I appreciate any insight anyone can provide.
Thank you.
Well I have an 06 SE accord, and have about 21k miles on her, I was wondering if it is normal to have a little brake squeal. It really bugs me, Please tell me that people have not replaced their brakes this soon in mileage. I am also a person that is very gentle on the brakes, and have like 2-3 times since owning had to use them quite hard. I also drive mostly highway. Should I be worried? My newer car should not be making brake sounds should it. What causes it, and if its normal?? Thanks. let me know.
-Worried accord owner
What's other Accord owner's experience? Does 30K sound about right for rears? I drive 50% city, 50% highway. I would consider myself easy on brakes...
Thanks
I did have new rotors and calipers put on due to cosmetic reasons by Honda a few k ago, so maybe the dealer installed in a way that would make the pads wear faster. They hate me, because I'm picky.
That's a load of crap (pardon my French). There is (supposed to be) much less braking force sent to the rear brakes. That's why the pads are smaller. I have the V6, which is heavier, and my rear pads are still good at 47k miles. There are many people who have had this problem. I think the rear brakes on some Accords are dragging, maybe because of the emergency brakes not releasing. The rear pads should not be worn that fast, IMO.
It was clear that the culprit is one of the items connected via the serpentine belt outside the engine. Turned out to be the POWER STEERING PUMP. They replaced it and the noise was gone. It could also be the Alternator, the A/C compressor, or the water pump.
The sure way to conclude whether it comes from the inside of the engine/transmission, or outside of it, is to take off the belt so none of those "outside" elements is running -- and check for the noise.
But you need a willing dealer for that... Good luck!
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/parts/
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp
the exploded system views are killer.
1. The doors do not respond at all to the remote transmitter on the key, but the trunk does pop. I can open all locks using the key manually.
2. Once inside the car, if i use the central lock button on the armrest, all the doors respond except for the driver side door.
3. When i push in the driver side door lock, all doors lock (that's how I lock the car right now). Once I lock all the doors (by pushing in the driver side lock tab), and if then i push the lock button on the key the horn does beep.
4. The LED on the key lights up, therefore the battery still works in the key.
Please advise!
PS: Do you have a service manual for your car. It's a lot easier to fix things,
it's also possible you got a rear strut (shock) that isn't making good contact with the top of the strut tower where it connects.
there may be loose suspension part, or your exhaust muffler may be missing a hanger back there and the pipe or muffler is hitting the underside of the car.
you might have a belt buckle vibrating up against a pillar. maybe a loose seat belt tensioner.
as buyahome suggests, check and make sure the seats are locked into position firmly. then eliminate the others one by one to the best of your ability.
you may want someone to ride in the rear while you drive to help isolate the source.
I second that!
My dad had a 2005 Accord which developed a noisy metallic rattle. Over time, we isolated it to be coming from the passenger-side rear seat seatbelt area. It was a loose weld in the top of the strut tower, which the dealer fixed easily.
Hope this helps!
I have a 2003 EX Accord coupe 4cylinder 5speed with 85K
History and problem.
If someone could help I would appreciate it. My wife is pregnant and expecting Sept 3rd. so I am a little strapped for cash and looking to fix myself if possible.
1. 30K miles had problem with O2 sensor
2. Slowing down for a light the Check engine light came on (same light as O2 sensor) and the car died a second or two latter. Started up right after.
3. 2 minutes later getting on to the on ramp the car died again, no warning or stuttering just dead. Started up right after.
4. Tested car for fail codes, none found.
5. Considering the lack of symptoms I tried driving car around the block.
6. Oil pressure light came on and car died a few seconds later.
7. Couldn’t restart right away, when it did 5-10 seconds later the light stayed on. The car died again after a few seconds of running, everything still sounded fine when the engine was running.
8. Wouldn’t restart and had to push out of intersection. 15 min later I was able to get it home.
9. Key in the ignition the car wouldn’t turn over. The door ajar tone wouldn’t work when the key was in the start position. After a few seconds the door ajar started sounding and a noise (could be fuel pump sounded from below the car (drivers side) the car started. This time the engine was knocking a little and a white smoke was coming from the exhaust smelled like gas. (the car typically idles at 800-900 RPM’s the car was now idling at 1300-1500 PRM’s
10. Current status sometimes it will start other times it won’t. I can’t drive it because situation 9 always repeats it’s self.
Oh no. We would have to confirm that the MICU is actually bad. There are like thousands of wires connected to it, and it is part of the fuse box. Not a cheap part. Hopefully it's not the problem.
However, two things I did help to isolate the sound. They were: (1) open the scissor jack while its in its holder just enough to ensure that it was tight in the holder and not rattling, and (2) tying down the spare tire cover, which just floats and flexes with bumps (unlike the cover in my '91 Accord which had a plastic cup nut that screwed onto the center screw holding the spare and tightened the cover so as to prevent flex noise).
You may also want to inspect the rods that are under the rear package shelf to make sure that none of them are clanking together when you hit bumps. A friend of mine solved his rattle problem with a little foam padding on one of those rods where they cross over each other.
-FS
the water builds up on a electrical panel and caused my PCM control to go bad.
the quote they gave me was.
4 hours of labor for $336 plus $545 for the PCM component and an additional $85 for the diagnosing the problem.
do these numbers sound right? Honda seemed to know about this problem does anyone know of any recalls for this?
Any info would help.
I think recalls are only for safety related problems. I don't see how this problem would qualify. Usually though if Honda sees a problem enough, they will extend the warranty on it. Maybe this problem is not frequent enough yet, but could be in the future, so keep your receipts. Do some research, and see if others have experienced this same problem.
Do I need to change the fluid every 15,000 miles? If not, how often do I have to change it?
The Honda dealer service representative suggested a transmission fluid change at round 20,000 miles? I thought it's too early. Maybe at 50,000 miles? What's your experience?
FYI, I just have 20,000 miles on my Accord and sometimes drive the car hard (i.e. 4000-5000rpm).
Oil change is done every 5,000 miles also.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The Maintenance Minder on the 06 and 07 Accords is probably better to follow than a service person's advice, IMHO.
I have a 2006 sedan myself, and everything is white/grey.
This is a pic of my dash in my EX 4-cyl.
The main light came on a couple months ago and noticed my acceleration was not as strong. After an oil change, the maintenance light was no longer on, but I still am not accelerating as fast. Also, when pressing on gas, the pedal doesn't seem as smooth. Not sure if I just need a tuneup or 1 of the cylinders in no longer operating, etc. I also had an incident last year where the transmission was stuck in 2nd gear. Honda mentioned it was the solenoid shifter and promptly replaced it. Perhaps the acceleration problem was a result of this incident...not sure. BTW...I have a 2005 Accord LX, 4 cyl.
SURGE2