Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

1…5253555758…117

Comments

  • sflorasflora Member Posts: 35
    The display on my 03 V6 Accord's audio unit (6-CD changer) went out entirely at about 70K miles. Mine was replaced for free, the fix is to replace a circuit board on the unit. As I understand it Honda has extended the warranty for this problem only. Depending on your dealer's service dept. (mine claimed to have never heard of this) I'd suggest calling Honda Customer Service to confirm first and open a case. Your VIN will need to be in the affected range for this to apply.

    At 74K the CD died entirely although the radio worked fine. There was a TSB issued on this but no official extension on the warranty. I called Honda and asked for a replacement, citing the number of problems I've had with the audio unit, the TSB, I'm a repeat Honda customer, etc. They agreed to cover the cost of a replacement unit if I paid the labor, which I was happy to accept.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    image

    I received this from Honda regarding the radio display. It may or may not cover your particular problem. My display has not gone out yet.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Another question. How often do you replace the Air and Micro (cabin) filters? I'd like to DIY if possible?

    The Honda air filter costs $33 and the micro (cabin) air filter costs $70 !!!

    Where's the cabin air filter? In glove box? The instruction manual does not show how to replace these filter in the Maintenance section. Wierd.

    Thanks.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Interesting, I didn't receive this notice.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    image
    image

    I think the A/C filter is scheduled to be replaced at 30k miles, but it depends a lot on how dirty the air is. It's very easy to check it out (no tools required). hope this helps
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Hmmm? Are you the original owner? At the same address?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Too funny... I had bookmarked Elroy's last post of changing the cabin filter and came up to print it off and saw this post and his reposting of the directions. Honda no longer includes it in the manual.

    BTW, I didn't pay anything close to $70! H&A sells one for $15.95 (although it doesn't appear to be a Honda part). Use this link and then scroll down: Micron Air brand Pollen Filters

    My local Honda dealer sells the Honda part for $25.26 and I had a 15% off coupon.

    There are many other places online where you can get genuine Honda parts for far less than the prices you are being quoted.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Okay, that was easy.

    Here are a couple of tips:

    I had to squeeze the sides of the glove box slightly after disengaging the stop and then pull it down.

    Also, the Micron Air brand that H&A carries appears to be the official Honda part. Both the replacement filter and the original had that name on the side.

    Thanks for posting (and reposting) the directions, Elroy.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    :) Yes, tallman1. I buy all my maintenance items from HandA. It's a lot cheaper than the dealer, especially when you buy a 6pack of filters. I wonder if the original A/C filters are Honda parts, or if they get them from another company, because the one's from HandA look exactly like the original filters. I just received a shipment from HandA for wiper refills, brake fluid, A/C and engine air filters, and couple other accessories. Wish I could get the brake pads from HandA too. :cry: Maybe I'll get the pads from Majestic Honda's site. Have you ever tried them?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Another question. How often do you replace the Air and Micro (cabin) filters? I'd like to DIY if possible?

    The Honda air filter costs $33 and the micro (cabin) air filter costs $70 !!!

    At my local Wal-Mart store, if you buy an air filter from them (not cabin filter) they'll install it for you. A filter shouldn't be more than $10-$12. I bought an STP filter for my grandmother's 2002 Accord at AutoZone for $8.75 or so.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Elroy, by now you've seen my last post that said that Micron Air seems to be the official brand.

    I've never ordered anything from Majestic but I've visited their site. Oddly enough, I couldn't find the cabin filters there when I took a quick look the other day. I'm guessing that you have to search by the larger component rather than the individual part.

    H&A is great and I've seen a number of posts that recommend Bernardi but I've never used them either.

    I'm thinking about using Honda wiper refills instead of the Anco or Trico. Have you noticed a difference?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Didn't know anything about Bernardi, I'll have to check that out. I have been getting the Honda refills mainly because I know they will fit, I can order them while I'm ordering other items, and they do last a while (it rains a lot here). Micron air, ok so there is no Honda part #. Those filters are expensive, and they get dirty fast, so it would be nice if I could clean and re-use them. I'll try using water, and maybe some gentle soap on it.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    elroy and others,

    Thanks a lot for the informative postings. Any links to a website where I can buy H&A dust filter? How about in a local auto parts store?

    BTW, I think the engine filter is a separate one. Any idea how much it costs? Honda dealer charges $39 for replacement and the part costs $33.

    Thanks again.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Just an FYI,

    I looked at www.partsamerica.com, they list 2 cabin filters, a Purolator cabin filter for $13.88 and an Beck/Arnley Cabin Air Filter for $16.99

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    HandA (stands for Honda and Acura) is the website where you can buy maintenance items. Just click on this link.
    http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord.html
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Any links to a website where I can buy H&A dust filter?

    I included the link you are looking for in post 2750 or you can follow Elroy's link to the same site and enter in the other info to get you there.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I'll try using water, and maybe some gentle soap on it.

    Someone recently posted doing just that in some thread around here. I'm not sure how it came out. $20 is a bit much for what you get but it does last for 30k miles.

    I was amazed at how dirty mine was. Just think of all the things that entered the cabin in our cars before those filters. :) Of course, we breathe the same stuff outside.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I just changed my second A/C filter at 48k miles, and it was definitely due. In high dust areas (farm country) they get dirty much faster. I'm hoping the water works out.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    tallman1, thanks for the link. I over-looked it in post# 2750.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    No problem... our eyes can get kind of blurry after reading too much here. :sick:
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Some many questions today. I wonder if anybody uses the STP (or other brand) fuel injector cleaners regularly.

    I have 23K on my 2006 Accord. Do I need to use the injector cleaner when fueling next time? Is it going to harm the engine, fuel lines, and performance of the car?

    I don't feel any lack of power on the car. It performs as well as I first bought it.

    Just curious what your guys do with the fuel injector cleaner. How often do you do it?

    Thanks.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I've never used anything on any of my FI cars. My 95 Accord that my son now drives has over 220k miles.
  • kwhkwh Member Posts: 68
    I had time to work on the car this PM - used the key to push in the slot to release the car from park and pushed it outside the carport to see better. Checked all fuses and couldn't find anything wrong either fuse panel. Dashboard lights & overhead lights were very dim so I jumped the car off and it started. Rock hard break pedal went back to normal - car ran for about 2 minutes - coughed and cut off - went back to dashbord with every light on when I turn the key - the dashboard lights and overhead light take about 2-3 minutes to shut off when I get out out of the car. Car will not restart - clicking again - any other ideas or thoughts appreciated - looks like some kind of electrical foul up - anybody experienced this? THANKS!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    As I said in last post, suspect basic electrical problem (battery, corrosion on cables, alternator). Since your car won't run after jumping, pull the battery out and take it to any of the autoparts chains (pep boys, autozone, etc). They can run a free check on it.

    If your car will drive, drive it over there instead as they can check the battery and alternator on the car, under load.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Hi, does anyone have the directions (illustrative pictures) on replacing the engine air filter? I think this filter is under the hood and it's installed inside a black plastic cover with 4-5 screws locking it down.

    BTW, I didn't see the engine air filter listed under the 'link' of H&A parts.

    Thanks again.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    image
    The air cleaner element is on HandA's website. They show a picture of the V6 filter, but you can buy the 4cylinder filter also. good luck
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    If you jumped the car, and it started.
    Looks like a bad alternator.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    elroy5,

    Thanks a lot for the quick response on the engine air filter. It's really helpful.

    Since you're so knowledgable about the maintenance, may I ask your opinion on the 30K, 60K maintenance by Honda dealers? They charge $190 for 15K one and $380 for the 30K maintenance.

    Others, please also chip in your comments.

    Is it necessary to do each maintenance? A coworker who has a 2002 Accord and never did any maintenace except for oil changes. She has 100K on her Accord and haven't run into any problems.

    What's your experience?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I buy a factory shop manual for every car or truck I own, and do my own maintenance. Many people will get away with doing little maintenance, and not have problems. If you keep your car for a long time, and rack up a lot of miles, sooner or later the lack of maintenance will catch up with you. In my opinion, someone has to do some maintenance on your car (you or someone else). Failing to do things like changing brake pads can ruin the rotors, and not changing the brake fluid every 3 years or so, will kill the master cylinder down the road. The main things I would not neglect are oil/oil filter, and air filter changes. Finding an Honest Mechanic (who will not over-charge you) can be difficult, so I recommend asking friends and relatives what shops they use, and go from there. Good luck
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    You should follow the Maintenance Schedule in your Owner's Manual and avoid the add-ons that dealer service departments recommend.
  • exshomanexshoman Member Posts: 109
    Not sure if you've already done this, but just a fair warning. It's a surprising pain in the behind to change the filter. It's really jammed in there pretty well. After loosening the four bolts on the cleaner top, you need to undo the bolt on the hose attached to the cleaner (make sure to hold onto the bolt, it will fall off). Disconnect the wire for air cleaner sensor.

    Then the fun part, trying to get the cleaner top free. Only way I've found is to lift up the side of the cleaner top connected to the intake hose, then pull off the rubber intake hose and push down on it while lifting up on the air cleaner top. Takes a bit of force, but it will work. Once it is free of the intake hose, the top should lift out of the engine bay.

    When you put in the new filter, I found it almost impossible to put the top back onto the cleaner with the filter seated in the box - there wasn't enough clearance under the fender to slip in the back part of the cleaner top (the side opposite the intake hose. I temporarily shifted the filter towards the center of the engine bay a couple inches until I got the top situated under the fender, then properly seated the filter in the box.

    What a PITA. My Chrysler 300M only takes 30 seconds to unhook a couple snaps, and drop in a new filter.

    Once you've done it for the first time, it's not as hard the second time around, but it's still more difficult than it should be.
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Thanks a lot for the heads-up. I'll follow your posting if I decide to change it myself.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Original owner but moved.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    http://www.bernardiparts.com/category.aspx?categoryID=507
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    "Original owner but moved. "

    That may explain it. I suppose you could print the one I posted and show it to the dealer service manager.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Do the maintenance by the book at the Honda dealer to keep your warranty intact. Post warranty do the fluids,etc. on an individual basis. I let the Honda dealer do all the work in the hope that if there is some problem post warranty they may "goodwill" fix it for me. Just my .02.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Air filter installation is a HUGE pain in the 2003-2007 Accords.

    I found this out myself! It is a pain in both my 1996 Accord and my 2006 Accord (both 4-cyl). My grandmother's 2002 Accord (4-cyl) is a cinch though, 30 sec! Unlatch 4 clips and bam, pop that sucker in! I'll have my air filters changed at Wal-Mart for free (buy the filter there and its installed free; same true of wiper blades :))
  • bf109acebf109ace Member Posts: 77
    Good advice on the oil/oil,air filters, brake components and fluid. I'll definitely do those maintenance as the time comes up.

    How about auto transmission fluid? At 30K?

    Thanks a lot.
  • hieraxhierax Member Posts: 9
    04 Accord Sedan - just over 50k.

    Recently I've started hearing this highly agitating noise when starting the car , and it seems to follow my key position. I can't describe the noise too well other than it sounds like and electronic grinding. If I turn the key quickly - it's very short, if I am slower to turn it...the noise lasts longer....

    What might be going in my starting/ignition system.

    My only other complaint is I see my lights dim slightly when driving and pressing/releaseing gas and break pedals...

    Do I have an electical issue someplace ?
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    Yes. You clearly have an electrical issue. I'd take it into a shop for diagnostics.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    There is a Service Bulletin 05-034 for dimming headlights.

    Symptom:
    The headlights dim with the engine running and the headlights on, or DTC P1298 [electronic load detector (ELD) circuit high voltage] is stored in the ECM/PCM (but the headlights do not dim).

    Probable Cause:
    The ELD has a faulty solder joint.

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The buzzing sound when turning the key switch is normal, IMO. The buzzing will continue as long as the switch is between on and start position. I think it's trying to tell us not to leave the key in that position. IMO again, you have to turn the key so far from off to start, that your wrist runs out of movement, and the key stays in between for too long. If you turn the key from on to start with no hesitation, you will not here the buzzing.
  • nycnftmnycnftm Member Posts: 7
    Just returned from the brake shop inquiring about new brakes. I'm at 43,000 miles and never had them done. I told the guy I occasionally hear a grinding noise on the right front. He took all four wheels off and said shockingly that they were all good except the right front. He showed me that the inside pad on the caliper was completely worn down, while the outside was fine and the driver's side was good too. He informed me that there is something wrong and I should see if there is a recall on it or speak to Honda. The shocking part to me is the guy didn't just sell me a load of crap and charge me a fortune, but sent me away. I see there is a problem thread similar to this on the 2003. Can someone please help me with my 2004?
    Andrew
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    43K on a set of brake pads is WAY past the typical mileage one could expect from a set of front brake pads. Get them replaced, the brake fluid flushed and replaced with new. If the metal pad backing has scored the front rotor, get that replaced as well (some will cut it down on a lathe, I prefer to just replace).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I have an 03 V6 Accord (which is heavier than the 4cyl), I checked the pads at 48k miles, and they will easily make it to 50k miles. The brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years, or so says the owner's manual. Brake pads have different life spans, because people have different driving habits and situations. Someone who drives in traffic all day will use up pads a lot quicker than someone who drives on the open road.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Depends on the person and their commute, as elroy pointed out. My 1996 Honda ran 130k on its ORIGINAL front pads. It has 175k on the rear brake shoes, as they are still original.
  • nycnftmnycnftm Member Posts: 7
    I agree that the milage indicates that I should have them replaced, but the guy said (and showed me) that they are all good except the improper wear on the right inside pad. So back to the original question, why did one pad wear down to zero while the rest are still good?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    It sounds like the caliper on the right is sticking and not returning as is should.

    Mrbill
  • nycnftmnycnftm Member Posts: 7
    "It sounds like the caliper on the right is sticking and not returning as is should."

    So I should replace both front calipers?
    Andrew :shades:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,700
    Could it be a collapsed hose?
    Could it be something related to the ABS system not allowing proper backflow to release the caliper?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.