By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
You nailed it! I was gonna mention that Florida's highways are quite flat, so that will definitely improve average mileage. And for the most part, I95 is basically flat until you get into/past Virginia.
..ez....
Did I get royally screwed?
You might try the Accord Prices Paid forum for more responses by clicking here. In this forum people list their prices paid, and offers received for cars.
automatic
and i didnt trade anything in
in fact, i put 3000 down including dealer fees, so i dont even know how much they actually put torward the loan
i feel shafted...
Has anyone else had this issue? I only have 3600 miles on it and now have to replace both lights. Honda wants to charge $300+ because it is only sold as a kit, and the front bumper has to be removed to replace it!?! Who’s to say that after it’s fixed that it won’t happen again
Not Happy!
Thank God for insurance, right?
1) The I4 was sufficient but the V6 was impressive, especially during acceleration.
2) Strangely enough, the road noise was less noticeable in the I4 than the V6. As previously mentioned, I'd driven the I4 first and, as we were cruising on the interstate in the V6, I turned to the salesguy and said, "Is it me, or is the road noise louder in this car compared to the 4 cyl.?" With a perplexed look, he agreed. He noted that he'd think the V6 would be quieter as the tires had had enough time to warm up and soften a bit. He said the tires were the same, but I didn't think to confirm upon our return.
3) I think I noticed some of the VCM issue but it was subtle enough that I kind of shrugged it off as not being used to the car's drivetrain. I'll have to take a long test drive again to check this again but the car seemed pretty smooth for the most part.
4) After returning the car, the salesman had me leave my seat in its position and climb into the back seat. I stand 6'1" but sitting immediately behind the driver's seat there was a good 2" between my knees and the back of the front seat. Impressive.
5) The trunk is equally impressive. I play bass and had fashioned a cardboard box with dimensions similar to my 2x10 cab. It easily fit and the lift height seemed easy to manage.
Needless to say I'm very impressed. I still intend to test a couple of other makes (Camry Hybrid, Malibu, maybe others...) but the Accord is the benchmark they'll have to beat.
I may have an opportunity tomorrow to check the car out (it's not local but about 1.5 hrs. drive away). If I do, I'll report back.
"the audio system’s Active Noise Cancellation™ (ANC) function generates out-of-phase sound waves to cancel out any undesirable noise that may be due to the harmonics of 3-cylinder operation."
Also - has Honda changed its website? It now says the VCM is NEARLY seamless. Didn't it used to say it was seamless without qualification?
I'm still not totally sold on Honda's grade logic control. Every morning I stop for a cup of coffee and leaving I have to pass my towns police station. It's on a pretty steep downhill grade and they feel strongly about enforcing the 35 MPH speed limit. With my previous car I would pull out of the parking lot and let gravity get me past the station at the acceptable speed limit. With the new Accord it wants to stay in 3rd gear revving around 2,500 RPM going down the hill barely reaching 35 by the time I arrive at the bottom. I'd rather use the brakes and have the transmission go thru the gears and see the tach around 1,200-1,300 rpm like I used to knowing that the lower the engine tachs less fuel is being consumed. When it's holding a gear like that what is required of the driver to force it to shift up? I've tried giving the accelerator a little stab, but that hasn't worked. Any suggestions?
Honda offers ANC with many of their models. Our 2005 RL has it, even though that car doesn't have VCM.
"the audio system’s Active Noise Cancellation™ (ANC) function generates out-of-phase sound waves to cancel out any undesirable noise that may be due to the harmonics of 3-cylinder operation."
While I see it listed as standard equipment on the Coupe V6, when explained what it does it references the 3 cylinder operation mode.
Honda has had this type of transmission since the mid-90s. My 1996 Accord does the same thing; it keeps you from coasting too fast; it also holds third when climbing hills as opposed to hunting between third and fourth.
If my 1996 Accord and my 2006 Accord are any window into the GLC transmission, there's not much you can do to get it to shift up except reach level ground.
If you get your car into 4th gear before the hill starts, it shouldn't downshift back to third unless you hit the brakes. Otherwise, I've got nothing to offer ya, buddy. I'm sorry; hope my post at least lets you know its normal.
Also, there was some mention above about preferring to replace brake pads, rather than putting more wear on the transmission. This is undoubtedly true. However, I can relay my experience with my old 98 I4 Accord with manual transmission. I had over 140,000 miles on that car when I sold it - and it had the ORIGINAL brake pads. The reason: I used the hell out of the transmission to brake my speed. I never abused it, but I absolutely used it more than the brakes to help control my speed. With all that work and all those miles, the transmission was bomb-proof and never had a single problem.
Have I mentioned how much I liked that 98 Accord :sick: I miss it and my new 08 is a lot fancier - but not nearly as flawless!
That may have a lot to do with it; mine works similarly to what you describe. I should've been more thorough in my description.
However, I can rely my experience with my old 98 I4 Accord with manual transmission. I had over 140,000 miles on that car when I sold it - and it had the ORIGINAL brake pads. The reason: I used the hell out of the transmission to brake my speed.
My 1996 got 131k out of the front pads, and still has the original shoes on the rear. That was a lot of highway driving obviously, but great nonetheless. I now have over 50,000 miles on the new pads (182k on the car) and have that many miles on the shoes.
I used the hell out of the transmission to brake my speed. I never abused it, but I absolutely used it more than the brakes to help control my speed.
Could you elaborate? I often use D3 in my 1996 (my 06 Accord is more willing to downshift when braking) to help slow me down, but rarely above 45 mph, and almost never into "2", unless the hill is awfully steep and I don't want my brakes to completely fade if I'm stopping from 70+ mph (such as a steep off-ramp leading to a red light). 98% of stops I just leave it in D4 and let the car do its thing, and always in the '06.
After writing all of this I realize it is a little off topic. I'm not sure where it needs to go, though!
grad - to answer your question --- my 98 was a manual and so I drove it like an 18-wheeler :P If going above 70, I usually would let off the throttle until I got to 70, then shift into 4th. At about 55, I could shift down to 3rd and at something like 30-35 I would shift into 2nd to slow to about 20mph. Below 20mph or so, I would have to use my brakes since first gear was geared quite low.
I still use my gears, at times, to slow my new Accord. But, as ljgbjg noted, it just seems to be a much more mechanically complicated process.
Thanks
In terms of saving money however, I think your best bet is to buy the LX, and get after market alloys- a decent set can be had for prolly 300-600 depending on style/etc...
Differences,
1) Steel wheels vs. alloy wheels. The plastic wheel covers on the LX are horrible. Thin and can be easily dented/bent. I can't believe that Honda chose those horrible wheel covers for an Accord.
2) Non powered vs. powered driver's seat. One caveat, the powered driver's seat on the LX-P does not come with lumbar support. The lumbar support is only found the EX and up trim levels.
3) Engine immobilizer vs. engine immobilizer plus alarm.
As far as I can tell, those are the only differences between the LX and the LX-P. Are these differences worth $1,000? Myself, I really hated those flimsy plastic wheel covers, so went with the LX-P.
If you were to add alloys and an alarm system on an after market basis, you're likely going to spend $1,000. Plus you get the power driver's seat with the LX-P. An alarm system and power seat are desirable features for most buyers.
As long as you don't dislike the look of the OEM alloys, the LX-P is a smart purchase, in my opinion.
Joe
it'd be wonderful if i'd be able to read song titles in korean. thanks
One flat roads, the Accord did fine. In hilly roads, the auto transmission had heck of time figuring out what it wanted to do. It down shifted a lot, and in downhill driving, it was holding in gear and not upshifting. The RPM was about 4K. I know it was doing something like hill descent holding. But this is not a big semi that needs engine braking. If I need to keep it in lower gear, LET ME SELECT D3. The way we were driving, the car should have kept the top gear and occasionally down shift.
Our old 97 Dodge GC did a lot less down shifting in the same area several years ago than this Accord did. One the way back, I drove home a 2001 Jetta 2.0L 4 cyllinder 5 speed. I set the cruise at 70mph, and no point the engine labored. It easily kept up.
Accord EX with its 17" wheel and 45 profile tires has a very bumpy ride over rough surfaces. The car shakes and jumps around too much for its large wheelbase. It does not know how to absorb bumps. Honda might have been better off to stay with 16" wheels and 55 profile tires for sedans. On smooth roads, it did fine.
The mileage was a decent 33.8mpg. I still wish the EX cloth at $23,800 MSRP had a outside temp reading. Camry CE has it standard. IMO, Accord's both exterior and interior are the best in class.
Joe
Also, go to ebay, and search "2008 Honda Accord spoiler" and you will see many photos and a range of prices/options.
Good luck.
I have a question? What do you think is the better purchase an LX-P or an EX? I haven't shopped around for lease prices yet. I am looking for 12K miles, $0 down. DO you think it is possible to lease an EX for 36 months for a total of $315 or do I have to look at the LX-P?
Thanks for your help
But, not counting headroom and legroom issues, which is the better vehicle? I'm getting this mainly for much better gas mileage than my 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS which gets only 20 mpg. I also prefer a softer ride (similar to Toyota, but the Camry just doesn't do it for me).
Bud H