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Regarding the spoiler, I thought about it - but IMO Toyota did a VERY nice job on the rear end of the Camry, and the spoiler spoils that. LOL. Plus I imagine it would increase your drag coefficient, add a bit of weight, resulting in a net effect which runs counter to the whole hybrid theme. But that's just one man's opinion.
Again, they did a fantastic job with the looks of this car, and a spoiler is just gilding the lily. Now maybe if I was 18 again....
While you have that scale handy, could you also weigh the stock tire? I believe (based on data at tirerack.com) that it should weigh 21 lbs., but wouldn't mind getting confirmation on that. Muchos grass!
Thanks,
Norrin
Regards
I purchased my TCH from Mike Conte (847-741-2100). I recommend speaking with him. He's a very helpful and knowledgeable sales person. Just tell him that Kevin Lutz sent you.
I measured the distance between the two center holes on the template and the spoiler and the template spacing was too wide by 3/8".
I then untaped the templates and aligned them with the front edge of the trunk and the centerline of the trunk (measured off the Toyota emblem and center of the back window). The hole spacing was right on then.
I did a writeup (link title) with pictures of the installation, #59.
Good Luck!!!!!
I've been trying to think why a dealship would require a nonrefundable deposit on a car they have no trouble selling. The only thing I can come up with (besides greed) is that the salesperson that makes the sale would get to make sure the sale is through them. If not then someone backs out, sure the car will be sold immediately but possibly via another salesperson.
From a dealer perspective this makes no sence, but from a sales person view this is a sale they get to keep even if you back out.
Personally if they are reading this board and seeing where people are on numerous waiting lists I can't really blame them to wanting to tie you down to a dealer and a car.
Also, it's difficult for the marketing folks to know what the demand for the car really is when there are 1000's on the waiting list but it's only 9 different people. (I'm exagerating)
If I was interested in buying, I would inquire as to their reserve, but I'm not.
I have bought used cars on EBAY before and have traveled up to 1,200 miles to p/u and drive home.
According to the "Completed Listings" feature of Ebay Advanced Search, five TCH auctions have ended in June, and none of them met the reserve. Auctions which ended before that apparently are no longer searchable.
I don't understand how you could look at a Camry Hybrid, and then look at those pictures and think you were looking at the same model/trim level.
Titanium TCH?
1)As stated... if you back out, your deposit , say $1000 is forfited with the dealer saleman splitting the booty.
2)If you buy, the dealer/salesman increase their profit.
3)If only a verbal contract was said the dealer can add on
extra costs "Oah im sorry, I mentioned that in the beginning, apparantly you didn't hear me.
4) They can sell to other people/friends right under you who were willing to pay the higher price.
5) Hey they got you...you can probably think of a few youself.
Remember to get it in writing and a reciept that the deposit is refundable.
Remember what they say about contracts not written down... they are not worth the paper they are written on.
Gampa
Not bad for the first time behind the wheel, 5 adults in the car, ~ 200 #’s of stuff in the trunk, and a RT (parking lot to parking lot) segment. That was from Miller Park towards downtown and back again last Sunday at the Madison and Milwaukee Hybrid Group’s - Annual Brewer’s Game get together. The right driver with the right commute is going to do some serious damage to the EPA estimates in this thing!
Those of you that own one have a very nice automobile sans the un-ergonomic instrumentation.
Good Luck
Wayne R. Gerdes
1) You should get at least 50 miles after reaching "E" (that gives still gives you a safety margin).
2) The car may take a bit more than the advertised 17 gal. or the gasoline station that you used had poorly callibrated (rip-off)pumps.
3) The car will still run on electric if the gas runs out (please tell if you think that you could have actually run some distance on electric only).
As we always say "YMMV".
Thanks Again!
1) You should get at least 50 miles after reaching "E" (that gives still gives you a safety margin).
2) The car may take a bit more than the advertised 17 gal. or the gasoline station that you used had poorly callibrated (rip-off)pumps.
3) The car will still run on electric if the gas runs out (please tell if you think that you could have actually run some distance on electric only).
As we always say "YMMV".
Thanks Again!
You're welcome, glad you found it useful. To address your points above:
1) Well, you'll have just over 3 gallons in the tank when the needle hits E. That makes it pretty easy to calculate your worst case margin based on tank average (or current consumption). I personally don't plan to let the needle drop much below E in the future.
2) Correct. Do I dare do the experiment again to get more data?
3) I think the car will still run on electric, but probably not very far, and also not very safely. It really felt like driving a golf cart after the ICE cut out, which makes sense when you realize you've just lost 75% of your horsepower. Also, draining the battery completely is not good for it.
By the way, I had said "gas station" to the Nav screen, so I could monitor my nearest option when I ran out of gas (was in an unfamiliar area). It was pure luck that there was one just ahead when I did. Didn't have to deal with the gas can.
Thanks hybriddriver for your useful experiment.
I've never had to touch the button twice to have it open.
I hope to post some pictures in the coming week.
Under that is the A/C section with another smaller LCD with knobs, one on left for driver temperature, one on the right that controls the passenger temperature.
Very nice looking. Total 4 knobs in the 4 corners.
Probably like an XLE without NAV.
I assume you removed the stock TPMS's and installed them on the new wheels. Have the TPMS worked well on the new wheels (that is, no leaks?)
For those of you who worked with dealers outside of your area, were they willing to work via Fax in setting up a deposit contract (spelling out all the things that Gampa and others)pointed out? Seems to me that would be in their best interests as well as mine!
Thanks
2 sec flat !
Seriously, chart on Road&Track review shows 3.8 sec different between 0-50 (5.6 sec) and 0-70 (9.4 sec)
link title
If it's an emergency then driving on battery alone for a very short distance can be done but it may damage the main battery and will likely void the warranties making for mucho discussion of why batteries have to be replaced early.
I've done it probably 10-20 times like this on a variety of vehicles.
As with any business agreement - get it in writing. Make sure all the limitations, details, contingencies are clearly stipulated - in writing. It solves a lot of problems and makes the whole process less stressful.
2 sec flat !
Seriously, chart on Road&Track review shows 3.8 sec different between 0-50 (5.6 sec) and 0-70 (9.4 sec)
Sorry but it's not that simple.
Technically you're right. I just went out into my garage and was able to push it THREE times before it opened (I had to be quick). However it only takes one push to open.
No it's not, just gave jh some idea. Delay of flooring gas pedal, ICE response time, etc are unknown.
With the PSD as a CVT there is no downshift hesitation as with a normal ICE. It really is just press and go.
07 TCH - Non-NAVI’s dash layout
Good Luck
Wayne R. Gerdes
I've certainly have managed to drain the battery down to 2 bars while sitting in traffic (or the drive-thru) with the A/C blasting, but as soon as it got down that low, it ran the engine to help recharge the battery.
One other point of data is that while on a recent trip to Lake Tahoe, the battery got down to 1 bar as I approached Donner Summit (7200 feet), and stayed that way for about 5 minutes or so until I crested the summit and got into Truckee (about a 1200 foot drop over 5 miles), by which time the battery was fully charged up again (8 green bars, yum!). Half the time while on one bar, the computer would try to suck power out of the battery, and the other half the time it was trying to recharge it. At the time, I was doing about 60 to 65 MPH and the gas engine was definitely running at high RPMs to get up the hill with as little assistance from the battery. Again, my point being is that while I was down to one bar, the computer still did all that it could to protect the battery.
So if the TCH's computer is anything like the Prius', running out of gas and then using the battery to get to a gas station shouldn't hurt the battery. Should you get down to 1 or 2 bars in that situation, you'll probably be on the side of the road waiting for AAA/spouse/neighbor/friend to bring you some gas. Just don't run the A/C too much while waiting. :-)
As far as I know, nav isn't an option on the camry hybrid in canada =(
Just mentioning this in case anyone canadian stumbles across this thread
I don't have the manual in front of me but it explained how close the fob must be to use the keyless operation. I thought it was about 3 feet. If not it would be a poorly designed system if just because you were in the car with the fob and someone while you were sitting at a light could simply pop your trunk as they walked behind you and take what was there in the trunk.
Without the fob in range you have to punch the fob button to open the trunk OR lift the trunk release lever beside the driver seat.
It appears to be a well thoughtout design
Today, I measured current flowing from/to the battery in various conditions. Though I willl refine my experiments later, I did notice the following :
- Regenerative breaking keeps the charging current below 82 amperes (±20 HP), brakes do perform some of the task most of the time, probably to keep disks clean of rust
- Stealth driving keeps current at 20 amperes (5 HP) or less
- Between stealth mode and ICE mode, there is a short demand at 50-60 amperes ; I think the extra power is used to start the ICE, to give the driver and immediate response and to perform the seamless transition between electric and ICE driving
- Depressing the accelerator to more than 75% for passing does draw up to 138 amperes (45 HP) and the ICE revs up to provide a total of 192 HP.
My subjective feeling is that passing performance on my TCH is as good as it was on my 1996 3.0L Avalon.
I slipped one of the two probe arms between the two power wires (+ and -) going from the battery to the underfloor. That was easily accessible by lifting the velcro-attached plastic/felt ventilation plenum over the battery.