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Here is the exact link:
http://www.jbltoyota.com/toyota_camry/audio_advantages.asp
Ummm, just how fast can the TCH go in reverse?
So looks like there are six distinct speakers, the rear ones count as two. I assume (hope) they have separate inputs (channels) for the woofer and tweeter parts of the speaker.
I'm really surprised you find this, considering the rear speakers are woofers and tweeters and the midrange is up front. Most people speak in midrange so unless your news announcer is Barry White or Tinkerbell it should be better coming from the front.
Toyota dealer has optional front-end protector for $85
Wondering if it would look to corny or be more problematic than it would be worth. Also wondering how tough they are to install.
Also any recommendations on paint protection IE: Mother's finishes or Zeibart Diamond Gloss finish.. Anyone had expreience with these things? I would really like to have a nice finish on the car before I get too many bugs and other stuff
Thanks
WillyBill :confuse:
I think I'm over it now!.. After lunch I saw a car in our parking lot that had a bra on it. I examined the underside of the bra on the hood and formed my opinion.. I didn't want the finish of my new TCH to EVER look like that. Therfore I have concluded that I would not be interested in a bra for the car.
I may examine this black magic finish and see about using it as a protectant.
WillyBill :surprise:
Thanks!
Had a Pearl Legend for a number of years and dealt with a bra enough to know they are a PIA and got to the point where I just accept that life brings you a few dings and neither my wife's Prius nor my TCH will avoid them!
My point is that there is not a feature like that. Another poster said something about the fob not working as they approached the car and I added that you have to touch the handle to open the door.
Basically since the door unlocks instantly when you touch it I can't see a lot of advantage in it unlocking as I approach. Thta is unless it had hydraulics and actually opened without me touching it.
Then again, I'm a believer in the less electrical gadgets a car has probably the better off you are if it's a long term vehicle (not counting a hybrid battery)
Unless it's just the fact that you don't want it to start so that you can impress your friends as you glide out of the parking lot, I'm not sure what it hurts to have it start up on take off. For whatever the reason it comes on it's probably significant in the design of the system. The car is extremely effecient for the size and comfort. As for the other poster I would do noting to manually change the way the system is designed.
Put headers on the 4c or a Borla muffler, supercharge it or add a K&N air filter BUT DON'T touch the electrical system (unless it's a design to plug it in overnight or juice up the batteries to say 75 hp)!
Also, if you were referring to me about the unlock on approach (I am not sure you were), I was actually saying that the car was failing to realize I was approaching (no interior lights, no little beep) so that I had to stand there and pull the handle 3+ times and reorient the key in my pocket. I've had that behavior 4 times in 9 days, with both keys/fobs, always on the driver's door and each of the 4 times I approached from the rear. I've not had an issue when I approach from the front (yet) or approaching the passenger door.
You're right , I'd hate to ask the dealer to change something and not like it and have to ask them to change it back. A technical service bullitin you could read first might answer a lot of questions.
Yes, pull the fob out of your pocket and press the unlock button.
The jbltoyota.com site shows that their Avalon configuration is different. Another marketing differentiation issue, I guess.
Maybe we should be happy we didn't get the base Camry sound system !
You are assuming the ICE is actually used to create the additional braking force. I'm not convinced that is does.
The manual states this concerning regeneration: "When the accelerator pedal is released, the reduced speed equal to engine braking in a gasoline-fuled vehicle is obtained in accordance with the running mode position of the selector lever".
This implies to me that the "B" mode is merely simulating engine braking thru more kinetic energy conversion by the motor generator. "D" mode does a little bit of regeneration, "B" mode does more.
The manual goes on to say that "B" mode is less effective than a conventional vehicle at high speed, another indication that spinning the ICE is not really part of the picture.
- cruise at 65 mph
- release the accelerator
- shift to the "B" position
What I saw was the traction battery charging current shooting up to 50 amperes and the ICE revving up. As the speed decreased, the charging current diminished gradually to about 30 amperes at 45 mph.
My conclusion was that both the ICE and MG2 (regeneration mode) collaborate to slow down the car. Someone else mentioned on this forum that after using "B" in a long downhill, he felt the ICE stepping even higher in revs ; I see this as MG2 putting an end to its effort when the battery is fully charged, and the ICE increasing its own effort to compensate.
I would avoid using the "B" mode due to the extra wear it causes in the transaxle and the ICE, unless the brakes reach fading temperatures . As someone else said : brakes are designed to perform this task. Also, 2007 Camrys have very large disks with a lot of heat-dissipation capacity.
I would absolutely not use the "B" mode on a slippery surface or in a curve, because a front wheel drive car becomes unstable in such conditions (I don't feel like challenging the Vehicle Stability Control system when I don't have to).
I guess I'm going to have to visit my dealer to have this behavior changed from Auto to Manual.
Sounds greek to me, but at least here are the setting values for the Sienna.
http://www.siennaclub.org/documents/Checklist1.06.pdf
I'll have to check that out myself as I usually have the windows down when A/C is off so I never really paid attention to the setting so far.
lesgas
Mornings are often 60 to 65 when I drive to work. I switch off the A/C the last few miles on the way home to dry out the humidity. In the morning the car almost always switches to recirc without the A/C on. The excess humidity and stale air is how I notice this has happened.
Wouldn't turning it off in those last few miles actually allow more moisture into the car if the outside humidity is high?
Mornings are cool - typically < 65F so I don't run the A/C. But the car often automatically switches the fresh air to recirc in the morning, resulting in a car full of stuffy humid air :mad:
It should not switch to recirc if the A/C is off. But it often does!
I know it's a minor complaint and so far the only thing I've found on the Camry. Amazing really considering the complexity of the car.
I've lived in Houston for almost 20 years - humidity capital of the world ... after New Orleans - and I've never heard of that. Maybe because we run our car A/C 24/7/365 it never has a chance to grow mold! I do actually run it in the winter sometimes - with the temp set to warm - when it's really humid outside. If I don't, the windows fog up. I've never had a moldy smell come out of the A/C, even when I don't run it for several days.
More on-topic, I leave my temp gauge set to "auto" at 75 degrees and of course the A/C is always on. When I start the car, it does sometimes use recirc but quickly switches to fresh. I've never needed to manually change it. I also have the ECO button engaged.
Thanks.
Love the Camry!
The guy said that the bras people used to get rubbed against the paint and polyurethane due to road vibration and destroyed the coating.
What struck me as odd, was the rapidity with which the crack appeared, I could actually see it forming. Also, by the sound it made, the projectile didn't seem to be very large and it wasn't particularly loud, though I know these windshields are insulated and that may have had some effect on the small concussion I heard in the cabin.
Now, however, I am starting to worry if this particular type of windshield, which I understand is actually a "sandwich" of plastic between glass layers, is unusually susceptiple to this type of damage. I've only had one other car experience a cracked windshield and I dont remember actually witnessing the crack as it formed.
Has anyone had any similar experiences with insulated windshields and does anyone know if you can have these cracks filled, as in a normal windshield, or is there some other treatment, short of replacing the whole piece? :confuse:
Thanks
It's the very last thing in his Bio, right after the "...". Hint: his ISP is hotmail.com
It's the whole top part plus the spring loaded hinge. Now I just need to figure how to access the screws. Pop off the back panel by the AC vents or remove the console interior under the armrest? Anyone have a service manual that would say how to access the screws?
Larry Van Wormer