Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options

GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

1246

Comments

  • Options
    poorjimmypoorjimmy Member Posts: 2
    well one day shut it off, went for lunch, then it wouldn't start, poured gas in throttle body, it would run till gas ran out, so I disconnected the inlet to the fuel filter and tried starting, but no fuel came out...
    went for some supper called tow truck, while waiting with the inlet line still disconnected, i tried starting and gas started pouring out?, so i connected fuel line to filter and it started no problem drove it home.

    Next day started no problem, drove around town, came home shut it off, and wouldn't restart, this time poured gas in throttle body and still wouldn't even start this time, "scratching head"

    check all fuses, replaced relay, disconnected fuel line and re tried, no fuel coming out...
    Left for a few days, went out tried to start started right up, tried 3 times then wouldn't start with or with gas in throttle body, i have ordered a new pump, and have changed fuel filter, just not sure why it all works one day then nothing, what really gets me is it will crank over know but seems to be getting no spark and no fuel, even pouring gas in throttlebody wont run, hmmm

    Any help would sure be nice.

    thanks
  • Options
    jonah4jonah4 Member Posts: 1
    just installed a fuel pump....new battery...worked friday....next day went out to start it won,t start... nothing ...won,t even try to kick over..... next day sunday...started up.......monday comes guess what it....it won,t start.....at least its trying to turn over......please please help what could it be.......
  • Options
    Tomdiehl25Tomdiehl25 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having problem starting my jimmy it turns over but dose it kinda slugdish I went to state it this moring and it won't start but i tryed after i got after work and it started
  • Options
    laney69laney69 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 jimmy, started having trouble starting it few months ago, then wouldn't start all all, chgd fuel & air filter, started for while but would never start first try....then it wouldn't start again, back to the shop it went, they chgd cap & rotor, started for week after that but never on first try, then stops again, back to the shop, chgd crank sensor, started but never on first try for few days, now back in the shop again....need help, this is crazy, thx

    laney
  • Options
    Alfakenny1Alfakenny1 Member Posts: 5
  • Options
    colosleepercolosleeper Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem! Some days it would start fine, some days it would start with starting fluid, other days wouldn't start at all! I replaced the fuel pump in July '08, then in Dec. starting troubles began. I ran many tests and found a few little things like weak coil and battery! The major cause was the fuel pump! Jimmy's '96 and newer require a higher pressure 55-68 psi. Test with ignition on engine off! I just put in a new Carter pump that has good pressure! I also read that the deqaler oem parts work! The link is for the same problem with a '99
    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=939145
  • Options
    rushx15rushx15 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Jimmy that I'm ready to roll over a cliff. It starts up for just a second and then stalls. This can go on and on. After a half hour or so it cranks right up. I've gone through everything I can think of. EGR valve, ignition switch, fuel pump/filter. Could it be the security system? That light is always coming and going...
  • Options
    my4littleangelmy4littleangel Member Posts: 4
    Please help! My car is broken and we are lost on what to do. The car has been "stalling out" mid drive. I was going 65 on the freeway and it completely shut down. It also does this when I am driving around town. We have done the following:

    complete tune up
    new battery
    TWO new fuel pumps within weeks of each other
    new center port fuel injectors ? or something like that

    STILL stalls. Today it failed smog ONLY because " fuel evaporative controls functional" area failed The smog guy told me gas vapors are leaking.

    HELP! I need my car for my kiddos and am soo lost on what needs to be done and no mechanic knows how to fix. THANKS!!! :sick:
  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Does your Jimmy stall when it's in overdrive?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    You may have to pull the codes from the computer.
    My '91 would stall after 15 minutes of driving. I pulled the codes and it said something like "engine temp. was at 32 degrees" or some [non-permissible content removed].
    I replaced the temp sending unit to the the computer (not the gauge nor light) and all was solved.
    What was happening was when the car got up to temp. the Computer temp. sender would shut it down. That was just my situation.
    To sum it up...don't throw money at it until you've pulled the codes.
    jon
  • Options
    my4littleangelmy4littleangel Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. Ill try that. yep, it also stalls in overdrive. I have had 2 different shops tells me the codes keep coming back that I need a new fuel pump. After replacing it twice, I furiously fought against replacing it a 3 rd time. (Within a 3 month period) I will ask them to check out the temp codes. I think I really just need a good mechanic in my area and have failed to find one!

    Thanks for any and all advise! I really appreciate it!
  • Options
    446duster446duster Member Posts: 1
    When driving some times the rpms just drop and the motor ulmost dies and then the rpms will come right back up like nothing ever happened and other times it will just die. This happens intermitently, some times at highway speed and other times while sitting at a light. The check engine light does not come on. It has about 130k on it. I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to it and there is no pressure drop when this happens. I also put new plugs and fuel filter in it and it still happens. I took it to a shop and they are not sure either but said somethng about there being distributor problems with these. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
    Its a 4.3 4x4
  • Options
    goincraygoincray Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem. It will run fine for a week and just shut off. I had the fuel regulator and the spider assembly replaced. The fuel pump was replaced in Sept. My mechanic seems like they have no idea now. Did you ever figure it out?
    It will shut off while driving with no check engine light and it will do it sitting at a light. :mad: :lemon:
  • Options
    goincraygoincray Member Posts: 2
    Sept 08 got a new fuel pump- 4-09 started to stall out while driving. No check engine light. Took it in, no codes,took it home. Drove it again stalled out and wouldnt re-start. Got it towed and it started again when it got to the shop. Needed a new fuel regulator 30psi and a new fuel filter : . Good for a week after being replaced. Started again, now needs a spider assembly. ran all day, stalls again at 10 psi???? Any CLUE?? :confuse:
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    This is a PITA, but on the fuel rail up to the engine there is a valve with a cap on it. Remove the cap and install a fuel pressure gauge. I think you need 70lbs. or somethin'? It can be done in 2 minutes. Install gauge..crank and look at pressure (through windshield with hood up).
    I bought a gauge with screw on fitting at a Napa, or Adv. Auto.
    Check the fuel pressure real quick next time it dies.
    My wife's 2000 just up and died. Towed it home...replaced filter. Nothing.
    Then bought the guage. It told me 4 lbs pressure. Got a fuel pump assy. with sender from a junkyard for $100. (I had already dropped the tank and replaced the bad sender once.)
    Replaced fuel pump assy and all is good.
    Sometimes these pumps can be intermittant (especially on the older cars...you rap on the metal tank with a block of wood and it'll start and run for awhile).

    Guage setup/location:

    image

    I tested the junkyard pump and sender in this fashion before installing in tank:

    image

    Guage and pump check fine:

    image
  • Options
    nickjaxnickjax Member Posts: 1
    2001 GMC Jimmy/4.3L Vortec/4X4.
    When I first start the Jimmy it fires right up. While driving the engine runs great,and even better now with all the new parts. I park it then try to re-start it. It only cranks and does not fire back up. I could drive it for hours,but when I stop and shut it off. It will not start back up. It will start again if I wait for 20 or 30 min. When I shut it off after that,still no start up,just cranks.
    I have so far replaced,the fuel pump,fuel filter,the map censor,the crank censor,EGR valve,air filter,all plugs,all wires,the whole distributor assembly,and the oil. I took off the coil,and the ingintion module. I brought them to autozone and had them run a test on them. All checked out fine. During the problem I checked for spark. There is spark,but still will not start up. The timing is great.This is the EDI ignition. Can't adjust the timing after the installation of the distributor.
    Can't figure this one out. Anyone on here had this same problem? The check engine light never has turned on. Is there a part in the fuel system that heats up that will cause it not to restart? It will start and run fine in wet weather too. Will not restart after warm up.
  • Options
    kenneygkenneyg Member Posts: 2
    Hi there, I'm Kenney and live in Oregon and have an elderly man that is like a father to me living in Ark. that has this very same problem that you seem to be having . I was curiouse if you ever found out the problem with your rig so that I may be able to help my good friend back home. I'm sorry not to have the info for what has been already done. All that I can say is that it was put on a scope and nothing was found to be wrong with it.
    Thank you for any help you may be able to help with.
    kenney for Edgar

    197 of 197 2001 GMC Jimmy Starts great,but will not restart after warm up. by nickjax Jun 26, 2009 (11:00 am)
    2001 GMC Jimmy/4.3L Vortec/4X4.
    When I first start the Jimmy it fires right up. While driving the engine runs great,and even better now with all the new parts. I park it then try to re-start it. It only cranks and does not fire back up. I could drive it for hours,but when I stop and shut it off. It will not start back up. It will start again if I wait for 20 or 30 min. When I shut it off after that,still no start up,just cranks.

    Can't figure this one out. Anyone on here had this same problem? The check engine light never has turned on. Is there a part in the fuel system that heats up that will cause it not to restart? It will start and run fine in wet weather too. Will not restart after warm up.
  • Options
    my4littleangelmy4littleangel Member Posts: 4
    They ended up replacing the central port fuel injectors, now the car runs like a top! Perfect! It is the second time I have had to have that replaced, so I am worried if it will go out again.
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    FWIW...
    One thing I replaced once was the temp. sender to the COMPUTER.... NOT the sender to the temp. gauge/light. It was inexpensive ($10-$12? @ Autozone).
    Once the truck was up to temperature..the Computer temp. sensor/sender was telling the computer to not let the truck re-start.
    That solved my problem when the truck would not restart after getting up to temp.
  • Options
    kenneygkenneyg Member Posts: 2
    Hey johnyring,
    Just wanted to thank you for letting me know this. I have forwarded it back home
    and maybe that will solve the mistery.
    thanks again.
    kenneyg.
  • Options
    kellybell28kellybell28 Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I got my 1994 Jimmy a few months ago and I don't know what the guy did to it, but here is the situation............ The truck would sputter, like it was outta gas, and would slowly die. So we replaced the fuel pump, but found the gas tank had a crack.....haven't fixed that just yet. The new fuel pump and lines didn't help the issue, seemed to make it worse. Then we discovered that if you open the driver's side door when it starts to "die", and the domelight comes on, it kicks back-up and runs fine. Obviously I can't ride around with the door hanging open.........ANY suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
    Thanks Everyone!!
  • Options
    my4littleangelmy4littleangel Member Posts: 4
    Seriously sounds like my car (Minus the door opening, not sure what that is about! HA)

    We had to replace the central port fuel injectors. Twice. Once last month, and once about 5 years ago. It runs good now, we shall see!
  • Options
    steelerfan67steelerfan67 Member Posts: 1
    We have an 01 jimmy and have very similar problems, been dealing with this for awhile. replaced fuel pump, fuel filters, flushed fuel lines, pickup coil, inginaiton mod, altinator, was overcharging. engine light comes on sometimes no codes fuel gauge jumps around runs good when cool or cold out. gets hot out it act up. stops when driving and when you park it wont start wait 15 min starts up again we are at a lost
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    Sounds like your "Cold Start circuit" isn't telling the computer that the car is now warm?
    Two things I can think of at little to no extra costs...
    1)Replace Temp. sensor/sender to the computer...NOT the sender to the guage. Inexpensive part to replace. Shop around...NAPA, Advance, etc., for best price.
    2)Idle Control Valve (ICV). Clean it...may be sticking or STUCK in the "cold" position??

    I hate throwing parts at a car hoping to solve the problem.

    Hope I helped?
    jonny
  • Options
    rockclimber2rockclimber2 Member Posts: 3
    My jimmy bogs down if i step on the gas and when i let up it smooths out. I had the fuel pump replaced feb 09 and that now has a high pitched whine. Does anybody know what could be wrong? Are both problems related?
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    Q: "My jimmy bogs down if i step on the gas and when i let up it smooths out."

    A??: I'm no fuel injection expert, but when you step on the gas pedal, you are actually opening the throttle plate (the butterfly valve directly attached to your gas pedal via a cable)....which let's in a large amount of air (oxygen). So when you "step on it" and it "bogs"...it appears that it is not getting the increased fuel necessary to mix with the increased air you are letting in?
    So why is it not getting the increased fuel needed?
    First check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail (I covered that with photos in an earlier post).
    If the fuel pressure is good (60lbs?? I forget..look at the photo) then it sounds like an electronic problem.
    Attached to the side of the throttle body (right next to the butterfly throttle plate) is a little electronic box called the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It has some wires that run from it....into the engine wiring harness and ultimately to the Engine's computer/brain/Electronic Control Unit (ECU).
    This friggin' TPS thingy is supposed to tell the computer the position of the throttle plate and regulate (tell the computer/brain/ECU) the added fuel needed for the increased air added?
    This TPS might be the problem? It may be bad? ( Lightly rap/tap on the TPS with the handle of a screwdriver to see if it "jars" it back into working order?) Or, the TPS may be good and the area in computer/brain/ ECU linked to the TPS bad? (That would require a NEW or Used "Junkyard" ECU).
    I'm sure the TPS is less expensive than the ECU.

    As I stated, I'm no expert, but do know a little bit and this makes sense to me. Or I may be the blind leading the blind?
    Let me/us know how you make out if and when you solve the problem. I personally would like to know.
    jon
    8-)
    God I strongly dislike Fuel Injection when it malfunctions and you need to have equipment to pull codes and what not!
    Nothin' better than a good ol' simple carburetor , IMO.
  • Options
    rockclimber2rockclimber2 Member Posts: 3
    I thank you for the info. I was wondering if it could be the fuel filter clogged it doesn't bog down all the time. this morning it ran ok. also had the fuel pump replaced last febuary and now that is making a high pitched noise even when driving down the road i can hear it.another problem is starting after driving it and shutting it off after about 15 minutes it starts hard it turns over about 7 times and starts but, in the morning after sitting it starts right up. whats your thoughts on this ? And does anybody else know what could be wrong? thank you for your help.
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    "doesn't bog down all the time."

    Oh, I didn't know it was an intermittent problem...I thought it was permanent and wouldn't drive...just idle.

    This "high pitch" sound...is this all the time or just when it "bogs"?
    Sure, change the filter..can't hurt.
    Still it could be "intermittent" as far as the TPS/ECU are concerned.
    Change filter and see if it cure's it. Filter should be located inside frame rail, drivers side, forward of tank= simple and quick change.
    If that doesn't do it...check fuel pressure= that'll determine the pumps' status.
    If all that is good.. look into TPS "tapping on it" and/or replacing it.
    _____________________________________________________________

    "another problem is starting after driving it and shutting it off after about 15 minutes it starts hard it turns over about 7 times and starts but, in the morning after sitting it starts right up. whats your thoughts on this ?"

    Fuel system VAPOR LOCK. I don't know how to fix this yet..google it.
    I have the identical problem on an '86 BMW 535i Dirt Ralleye car. When I beat on it hard....it doesn't wanna start until it cools down. Haven't researched it yet.
    jon
  • Options
    rockclimber2rockclimber2 Member Posts: 3
    The high pitch sound is all the time. The pump didn't sound like that when it was first changed. Could it be back pressure from a dirty fuel filter? I'll try changing the filter first.I'll do some research on the vapor lock.
  • Options
    chgmcchgmc Member Posts: 1
    Pulled out of driveway and truck died. Intermittent electrical and wouldn't stay on long enough to get it back to the driveway. Jiggled the battery and heard a click in the fuse box on the other side of the engine. The running lights came on and I could get the key out. New battery, fuel pump, and radiator.
  • Options
    hoody1hoody1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 jimmy 2dr standard.. have trouble starting when wet,no problems when weather is dry and sunny.. what might the problem be? maybe spark plugs? bought it used about 6 or so yrs ago and have not changed them yet..
  • Options
    kdp1996jimmykdp1996jimmy Member Posts: 1
    Just shut down on me while coming home last night. Try to start and it tries, but sounds like it is dieseling then shuts down. Cranks over, but will not start. Temp was a little high when it shut down. Fuel pump? Temp sensor? Pulled dip stick, no H2o.
    Only 76k on this vehicle.
  • Options
    Alfakenny1Alfakenny1 Member Posts: 5
    As long as it's not overheated check your intake air sensor and Mass air flow sensor, first see if they are pluged in. They are near the air filter box. Another test is to see if it's getting fuel. An easy way is to try starting the truck and immediatly after remove a spark plug and see if it looks wet, that's a good fuel test, if it still is then do a spark test. If you have a tester then use it. If you don't (like me) then unhook the cable from the spark plug and leave it somewhere visable, have a friend look to see if it sparks while you try starting it.
  • Options
    00gmcjimmy00gmcjimmy Member Posts: 4
    Hello I have a 2000 GMC JIMMY first of all what piece of crap. But Here is my problem. When you put gas in the bowl its starts then stalls. We have replace regulator, filter, cam shaft position sensor. The pump does come on. We have run out of ideas on what it might be. Does anyone know what it could be or have an idea. We are so tired of spending money on things that aren't wrong. :confuse:
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    "When you put gas in the bowl its starts then stalls."
    So you have spark but no fuel.
    Pressure test fuel= pump/pump relay/filter
  • Options
    00gmcjimmy00gmcjimmy Member Posts: 4
    I know the pump relay is good, cause the pump is coming on and we have replace the filter like 3 weeks ago.We have not done a Pressure test on the fuel. What happens if the pressure is not good? What do you replace in that case? :cry:
  • Options
    homefixithomefixit Member Posts: 4
    My brother is having a similar issue with his . if it is in his driveway facing a down hill it starts every time. Once started it runs perfect no hesitation or anything. When he goes to the store and stops, it will not restart until the next morning then it fires right up like nothing has happened. He did have the fuel pump replaced along with everything that goes with it even the wiring to it. The pump does make the sound and work perfectly. Although here is one other symptom if he is to try to fill the tank before it is totally full it starts dumping on the ground. Could this leak be causing this issue as i believe it is letting air in through the top of the tank?
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    My '91 did that. As soon as I got 1 mile to the store...it would not refire.
    Turned out to be the temp. sensor to the brain. Once it got up to temp., the sensor wouldn't let the thing fire up again.
    My .02 cents
  • Options
    klunker95klunker95 Member Posts: 1
    will run smooth for the first 15-20 minutes until normal operating temperature... when it reaches that point it misses and sputters until the motor shuts down... can sometimes keep it running if throttling up rpms... as soon as you let off the gas it dies...
    have replaced... fuel pump, catilatic converter, o2 sensor, map sensor, egr valve, fuel filter,
    acts as if it is electrical when motor warms up... but am running out of ideas and money... sincerily, the money pit

    please help!!!!
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    "acts as if it is electrical when motor warms up."

    Temp. sensor/sender to ECU/Brain may be bad (mine did exact thing)...not sensor/sender to temp. light/gauge.
  • Options
    bren24bren24 Member Posts: 1
    I had a lot of these issues with my 98 jimmy. Sometimes i could sit in the drive for 10min before it would start and others it would randomly stall in the middle of intersections. It would start to spit and sputter after about 25-30 min of driving. And almost every time i went up a hill, it would almost die leaving me in the middle of it. I got the codes pulled and the computer gave codes for four or five o2 sensors, several fuel issues, and air intake. We looked at the price to fix all of these and it came up to about $650. Not going to happen. so i looked online for what could cause all of these problems. Here is how i fixed it. I went to autozone and bought CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner and gumout air intake and throttle body cleaner. Went out into the parking lot. pulled the mass air flow out. didn't look very dirty but i gave it a good spray, let it dry, and sprayed it again. Then I took the gumout and sprayed the whole throttle body. inside and out. got all of the black residue off the inside. put it back together and it fired first try. had the codes pulled again. not a single problem. The jimmy has ran fine since. took it all the way to Lake Erie and didn't have a single problem with it the whole time. Thats a 12 hour drive for me. Its ran perfect ever since. The total cost to fix it. $12.85. I suggest most of you try it. And i hope it helps.
  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Now that's the kind of solution I really like - effective and cheap! Thanks. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    bassemirbassemir Member Posts: 2
    Have a 1996 Jimmy that would randomly die while driving. After dieing it would start right back up. It only seemed to happen when my daughter drove the car.

    Turned out to be the ignition switch. Since replaced the car has not died.
  • Options
    homefixithomefixit Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the help. I did end up dropping the tank to replace his very hard to find o-ring gasket around the pump. The person that had installed his pump did so with a hammer he said, I put a little grease around the top of the tank edge as there was a little rust and was able to get in by hand with a little effort. (NO HAMMER) That is why his gasket was cut like sliced and he couldn't fill the tank. He can now fill the tank without worry as to spilling fuel on the ground. The gasket was around $9+tax. Then we found a shop that advised us that what you said is correct there is a fuel pump relay that is mounted in the glove box in this year truck. It seems that when this relay goes bad and gets hot it tells the pump not too run as it thinks the pump is too hot to run. Actually there are three there in which we replaced the right two at $10+tax each and he is now running perfectly without startup issues. The book he bought barley speaks of it unless you really dig into the paragraphs and there is one picture and you wouldn't know it is in the glove box unless you really look for it as it is covered with a plastic cover. I hope this can help others.
  • Options
    homefixithomefixit Member Posts: 4
    Where do you find this temp sensor? because he got it home and it started again after two days of working just fine.
  • Options
    jonnyringjonnyring Member Posts: 74
    "Where do you find this temp sensor? "

    On a '97? I don't know.
    There are 2 water temp. sensors.
    1)On my '91 V6 4.3L (throttle-body injection), the gauge sender/sensor was on the pass. side of the engine right below the forward 2 spark plugs.
    2)The ECU/Brain sensor (the one you may wanna replace) was located front and center on top of the engine next to the goose neck (where the upper radiator hose enters the engine).
    Now I just looked on my wife's 2000 (4.3L with fuel injectors, not T-body injection)...and it could be right next to the goose neck as well, however, if it is, it is HUGE.....much larger than the older 4.3L.
  • Options
    homefixithomefixit Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info he looked at it and said it is the size of a small soda can. It is a big possibility that this is it and he will be checking it soon. The truck overheated once he said but not since then as he had that fixed by someone. Thanks again i will update when we get it figured out.
  • Options
    nebulisnebulis Member Posts: 2
    I was driving home yesterday and stopped at a red light. My Jimmy stalled and I had to restart it. When I restarted it there was no power when i hit the gas and it stalled and died again. Now it wont start at all.
    Anyone know what could possibly be wrong?
  • Options
    hawks4lifehawks4life Member Posts: 1
    I was driving my jimmy down the road and when i hit the gas to speed up it cut out, its like when you run out of gas and it just shuts off. When i left off it was like normal, but then when i pushed the gas it cut off again. I pulled over put in park reved it up a little bit and sounded fine, i put it in drive and it died. I re started it and started up, i put it in drive then it shut off again. I put another 6 gallons of gas in so it has enough gas. My check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago but it went off the next day and hasant reappered. Now My gas gage has been messed up for a while. Now does anyone know how to fix this? I thought maybe a new fuel pump? or spark plugs? something. Someone please help its my only vehicle and i need to get it running again please?
  • Options
    redbeach1redbeach1 Member Posts: 1
    The vehicle would not start so it was a good time to repair the leaking intake manifold. Needed replacement parts that were replaced: oil press. sw., distributor w/cmp sensor (broken ear), new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, ign. coil, new thermostat, also had intake cleaned to remove carbon from EGR, also replaced 1 poppet, set distributor and clinder 1 at TDC mark.
    Have 65psi (fuel) when cranking, have spark at plug wires on cylinders 1 & 2. I have no codes on code reader while cranking.


    Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you.
Sign In or Register to comment.