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GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

mcelfreshmcelfresh Member Posts: 1
i have replaced new dist. roto cap,wires, plugs,tsp sensor can get it to start and shut it down and will not restart don't know what else to look for any help??


  • dustaymmdustaymm Member Posts: 1
    When replacing the intake manifold gasket, what setting should the torque wrench be set on to tighten the bolts that pull the intake down on the gasket?
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Member Posts: 6
    TBI models 36 ftlbs
    CPI models initial torque 35 ftlbs
    CPI models final torque can be up to 41 ftlbs

    tbi you tighten one side then the other

    cpi is tightened in a zigzag patern from the midle

    if you are really concerned get a shop manual, they tell you the order to tighten each
  • privategentprivategent Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Jimmy. It has been having starting issues. We have heard everything from the fuel injectors needs to be cleaned to replacing the water pump. We have replaced the computer twice, the second time the garage replaced it free. But now it does not start but turns over. We have it in a garage now and first they thought it was the distributor, but have tested the sensors and such and can not find anything wrong with the distributor or computer. When we had the computer put in, I guess the first garage did some sloppy wiring and now another garage said some of the wiring from the distributor to the computer was burned and not covered properly and etc. They have tested the computer to the distributor and have found even though poor wiring it tests out fine. So now they think it is from the computer up through the firewall into the dash board. I understand it could be very costly to follow all the wires out the computer into the dash since their are so many wires? I have asked if it would be better to replace the harness and they seemed to be reluctant since they said that would be more work? We had it in three different garages and no body seems to know what they are doing, can someone give me some idea what we should do? Thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try looking through the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    For 98up Blazers the final lower intake torque is 11 ft lbs reached in 3 steps - any higher will cause other problems. Most shop books give in inch pounds and most of us have ft lb wrenches. Just wanted to document the correct torque for newer Blazers.
  • tashasootashasoo Member Posts: 1
    Turning the ignition key produces nothing. There is power to all of the dash gauges, but the starter will not engage. This only happens every fourth or fifth time you try to start it. After allowing the car to sit for a while you turn the key and it immediately starts. This is driving me nuts. Any clue what the heck is causing this??
  • 92blazers1092blazers10 Member Posts: 1
    I have an identical problem. My 92 S10 Blazer 4.3L V-6 will start initially, but after I shut it off it turns over beautifully but just will not start. The fuel pump runs fine. I see gas in the throttle body. Could it be flooding the TBI that easily and preventing further starts?
  • autopoorautopoor Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy with a CPFI. The car has been sitting up for a while and will not start. I replaced a bad fuel fuel pump and relay. I am getting fuel up to the injector. Put starter fluid in air intake. Car starts up breifly but does not continue to run. Is there any way to test the injector? I replaced the injectors two years ago at a cost of $265. Don't want to spend money if it is not the injectors.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure at the rail test port - only way to know.
  • firetruckiefiretruckie Member Posts: 1
    hey i got a 1993 GMC Jimmy V6..and i was stopin at a light and it just boged out Or stalled out. I had now breaks the whole nine yards..and the truck wouldent start then it would start and run for a few seconds and then stall out again. and that was about it..any ideas wat could be work.

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Fuel or spark - then possible sensor.
    4.3L engine (not 2.8)
    So, you have to determine that first to begin a fix.
    It turns over/cranks OK so battery is good and starter good.
    1. Do you smell gas in the engine compartment or on the oil dip stick - that could be a leaking CPI and lines (nut kit) under the upper intake so search that.
    2. Test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail as I have posted many times.
    3. Check for a spark at the coil or out of dist - use a plug wire and plug, hold the screw in base on a ground, and turn it over and is there a spark. Wear gloves or some non conducting holder or it will zap you and if you have a weak heart do NOT do this.
    4. Last tuneup with a cap/rotor, plugs, wires, PCV. Caps/rotors do fail and seen some internally arc and impossible to detect so change - cheap insurance you aren't fighting that one - my 99 aftermarket cap did this after 1 year so now I buy Delco caps - drove my crazy testing.
    5. Then on to sensors etc such as crank sensor under the front of the engine ($60), ignition module in the dist ($80) in 95 down (on coil 96up), and MAP on intake - but those can be determined with a scan tool ($400 up) that most shops and all dealers have so you can throw parts at it without a scanner or tow it in and take a rest.
  • cline092001cline092001 Member Posts: 2
    ran my 1995 GMC JIMMY out of gas now it wont start what can I do.
  • dwhyte99dwhyte99 Member Posts: 4
    I've noticed lately that whenever I am waiting at a realy long light, or at a drive thru my car seems to all of the sudden stall. Then it takes a few tries to start back up. Had a very embarassing time at the border with that. But it's like it stalls when i'm waiting for a while. And I notice it gets like a wierd shake before it happens. I've brought it to midas and thy say they can't do anything til it stalls, but I don't live there so it's kinda hard. Any idea what this might be? Oh ya, I brought it in for a tuneup a few months ago.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Do you hear the pump at key on before start for 2sec pressurize the system? If no noise hope the pump did not fail. First I would change the fuel filter then try again, then if no start test the fuel pressure to see if the pump still works correctly.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Was the cap and rotor changed and a new fuel filter, air filter and plugs, if not do so. Then test the fuel pressure at the test port (Actron tester is $35) and its a min of 60psi key on engine off (and then it should not drop after key off but a few psi)and then 53 psi running. Then 97 had a lot of strange problems due to the in column ignition switch (really the module in the column not the key but I didn't name it) so thats always possible if random things happen as all power gets switched thru there.
    Then possible coil or sensor so is a SES light on and any code? Lots of options here.
  • dwhyte99dwhyte99 Member Posts: 4
    Damn. I heard that theres problems with the 97 from a few people...of course only after I bought it. But I am definitely going to look into these. Thanks for the help. I'll let ya know how it goes.
  • invaderziminvaderzim Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 jimmy 4x4 4.3 v6 vortec that won't start. My father and I are pretty good at figureing out problems with cars but when it comes to this we are stumped. About 2 months ago i went to a local ihop parked the truck (which was running fine before i got there) shut it off and it sat for maybe 30 to 45 mins. before i came back out to start it and it wanted to start but didn't so i checked for the sound the fuel pump makes when it is working and no sound so i eventually got it started and got home replaced the fuel pump , and fuel filter. well ran good for 2 weeks then died again but now i hear the fuel pump kick on but no start did all the obvious checks and still nothing. No check engine light comes on fuel gauge works fine, although i do remember that when it did run for those 2 weeks it was extremly hard to start like it would crank and turn over but no start for about 15 to 30 secs now i read the messages in here and read the haynes repair manual from front to back and still can't figure it out. thought i would seek help from the web. also could i possibly damaged the starter from attempting to start it so many times?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    Check the fuel pressure #1 - 60 psi to start (53 running) and if you did not use a Delco you may have a few problems with pickup and seals. Next is the the state of the last tuneup - plugs, cap/rotor/wires. More details needed.
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    Hello,I just picked up a "92" Jimmy" 4X4 4.3l w/150k Miles. The truck runs great & looks great.I have not been able to get info I am Comfortable with RE: changing my oil & filter.I would appreciate any advice RE: Cap. 4.5Qt or 5Qt, type of oil, Syn.? Oil & Air filter types etc. For now the truck will be used for mostly short trips(under50m)three to four times a week. I will be supervising my young son and I want to get it right!I do not know the location of the pan plug or if it is LH/RH thread.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Pick up a Haynes or Chiltons at the auto store or look online at Autozone or Advance auto sites and all info is listed for you. I personally use Valoline MaxLife 5w-30 but all my Blazers are over 100k now. Seen both 4.5 and 5.0 qts loisted and I put in 4.75 with a filter but all mine are 98up with the remote oil cooler lines to the radiator.
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    Hey! Thanks for the reply,I had a computer sys. crash last Sat. and this my first on line since.
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    Well as it turns out your advice RE: Auto Zone was just what I was looking for,Thank You! Today I have a bigger concern. I had to be towed home 3hrs. ago! I was driving @ 35-40mph when my dig.odometer began to flash like a short in the connection,I played with the trip/em/reset buttons with no luck,2-3mi. later the word"error" is on my odometer display! 1/2mi. later chug chug hiss! turns over but will not start,After flat bed gets me home the four wheel drive light wont go out.I cant locate the fuses so I disconnected the battery.Can you help? :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Does this one have the full digital dash - look online for the many rebuilts available as the board can short. Sounds like you blew a hose maybe a heater hose back by the distributor so look for water spray and change the cap/rotor if wet, refill coolant and fix any hose leaks. Could be many things so need more specific info after yoy take a good look underhood. Oh, fuse panel by drivers door on end of dash, some relays on firewall, some behind glove box too.
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    No nothing wet I guess I dont Describe sounds very well.Now that I know fuse/relay locations I can rule them out.I dont know what is ment by full dash.This one has power everything apart from seats,AM/FM/ca.as well.I will be on it today,thanks again!
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    Oh I get it! yes the dash is all digital,no analog devices of any kind. :blush:
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    I checked out the under dash fuses,replaced dash fuse and re seated others,re seated a relay near fuses. I had the battery disconnected all the while turns out when ignition is activated this re boots the computer. Still will not start,also have intermittent interior light on/off with all doors closed.I will remove dash to gain access to computer to look for shorts in the pc board.Have checked all the obvious stuff under the hood.Any more advice?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Probably replace the dash with rebuilt - read all the problems with an online search.
  • esb25esb25 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jimmy with a weird starting problem. I have new plugs and wires, changed the distributor cap and rotor ( <6mo's ago), new fuel and air filter and my ignition coil is around 2 years old. I checked the fuel presure in the line, and got 60psi with key on, and 54 with engine on. The car is cranking fine, but takes a long time to start, usually when the car is cold. When the car is warm, it starts no problem and once running (even after it finally starts cold), the car runs fine - no stalling, surging, lack of power etc. When I do get it to start cold, the RPM dips, but then goes back up. The check engine light is off and there is no white or black smoke coming out of the exhaust.

    Anyone got any suggestions? I was wondering if it might have something to do with the ECT sensor, since it starts when it is warm...? Thanks for the help.
  • doc2b77doc2b77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy and it stalled a few times and then just would not start. The indicator lights (Airbag, ABS, etc) also stopped coming on when ignition in "ON" position as soon as this problem started. Fuel pump does not turn on and I checked the fuel pump relay (tried several replacement ones and same prob). One of the pins has volatage (constant) and no juice from the other pins when the ignition is in "ON" position. Jumpered the hot pin with the one for the pump and I can hear it turn on but won't start. Bad ECM or something else?? Any help is GREATLY needed and appreciated! Thanks.
  • kyheadhunter1kyheadhunter1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy, 4.3 CPI, 64k on it. Last tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel and air filters 04/05 or 11k ago. (all ac-delco parts)

    The truck will go into a severe bog at any time or speed and there is no pattern. Sometimes it dies alltogether, sometimes it don't. When it don't it will go to an idle and knock and ping like its not getting fuel reguardless of throttle position. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail it reads 55 psi and will raise slightly when reved. (My gauge hose is not long enough to stick on the cowl and read while driving so all gauge tests are at idle in driveway.) The SES light never comes on at any time when its acting up. Key on engine off pressure 58 psi, engine running 55 psi. When it stalls the psi will jump to 65 then an audible "click" is heard and it then drops back to 55 psi. Most times the engine will restart with a bump of the key. In the 10 minute leakdown test (procedure recommended by Alldata) pressure will decrease to about 30 psi from 58. The engine will bog/stall reguardless of engine temperature. Today while I was on my way home it stalled on the interstate and would not restart. I sat there for over an hour to no avail. Had to have it towed home. When we were taking it off the rollback it started right up. Overall engine performance has been poor, at interstate speeds you have to downshift to accelerate. Fuel milage has been 9 to 10 mpg. Converter was replaced one month ago. According to Alldata, the fuel pressure drop can be either the pressure regulator or "poppets". What are the poppets???

    I was a mechanic until 1995 but left the trade before OBD II came into the scene. If it wasnt Christmas I would take it to a dealer and have them fix it but with two in diapers, the funds aren't there. We are primarily a one car family so any/all suggestions on where to go from here are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim
  • kyheadhunter1kyheadhunter1 Member Posts: 4
    Heres an interesting detail. This evening, I was checking a few things. Still no start after the wrecker ride home today. While under the hood I had a thought, I hadn't checked the fuel pressure while cranking the engine over. I had just taken off the air intake tube, the intake temp sensor and mass air sensor were unplugged and cranked the engine to check cranking pressure when it fired right up and began to idle. I quickly looked at the dash and NO SES light. The motor purred like a kitten for about 3 minutes and quit. It started right back up, idled for a few more minutes and quit with no restart. So I guess its gonna be a another wrecker ride to the dealer on tuesday. will update.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Try cleaning the MAF sensor with either MAF, electronic or brake cleaner - no residue - so do not use carb cleaner. Said the mileage droped and thats possible. If the temp sensor reads cold all the time then you can be running rich or in cold start mode also explains the mileage drop. When it quits is the fuel pump still running at pressure - relay good? Still have a spark at the plugs so coil/cap/rotor/wires good - check the coil anyway and if you have the old cap/rotor switch them out to rule that out also. Did you get a code when it stopped and if so what was it? There are so many possible things you need those codes to isolate if a sensor or start checking each with the alldata info. Crank sensor, ign module, etc so don't want to start throwing too many parts at it.
  • kyheadhunter1kyheadhunter1 Member Posts: 4
    Will try cleaning MAF, still no SES light when running. Supposed to come on if key on/engine off. Fuel pressure never drops below 55 psi during cranking, engine running, or after engine stalls. To eliminate ignition, last night after it stopped again, I used a small amount of starter fluid in air intake (put it in behind MAF) and it fired. According to Alldata, the only way to test sensors is with scanner. Dont have access to one (still looking to borrow one). Is there a sensor that would cause the ECM to stop sending signal to the injectors if it malfunctioned? Thanks, Jim
  • bunker4bunker4 Member Posts: 3
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Should have tested the fuel pressure first to see if it was OK. If this is 4.3 should have the CPI injection and nut kit (lines) that often leaks under the manifold and the way to look at it has been posted many times so search posts. If thats not it and it still does the miss then electrical so cap/rotor/wires/sensors/etc need to be looked at.
  • bunker4bunker4 Member Posts: 3
  • kyheadhunter1kyheadhunter1 Member Posts: 4
    The dealer charged me 80.00 to check it out. But the found the Mass Airflow sensor to be operating outside of parameters, and that caused the catylic converter to stop up, so I actually had two problems causing it to run the way it was. KUDOS to repairdog, as thats what his first guess was. Hope this helps, Jim
  • bunker4bunker4 Member Posts: 3
    I did get my 93 Jimmy fixed. It was wiring that lead to one of the fuel injectors. This wire was red and blue I think and there was no short NOTICEABLE to the naked eye. The wiring was replaced from injector to firewall. Now everthing is fine. It would start, not start, run, miss, stall, chug etc. The actual short I was by the connector on driver's side (top) on engine.
  • esanger02esanger02 Member Posts: 1
    Hey i have a 2000 chevy blazer 4x4 and i am having problems with it. It starts and stalls, had bad hesitation at start up when you hit the gas, and horrible gas mileage. Brand new parts:
    -Air Filter
    -Gas Filter
    -PCV Valve

    It didnt help. What the hell is wrong with my truck?

    Please help.

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure, clean the MAF sensor, and if any SES light need the codes. Any vac line leaks, engine rattle, or other signs.
  • devinemozandevinemozan Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Jimmy won't start and I am 250 miles away from home!!! It has power, can hear the fuel pump, tries to start but won't turn over. PLEASE HELP! :cry:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If you are lucky check the cap/rotor for a problem or replace them. All you need is the parts and a a torx screw driver #15 I believe. If not that check for spark (easy way is buy a cheap plug, connect to a plug wire, and ground the screw in base to metal and turn it over (keep your hand away from the spark it hurts!) and if no spark then coil usually. Fuel pressure has to be close to 60psi to start so hearing the pump is not all thats required. Good luck. 97 also has a wiring problem called the ignition switch thats the connector and harness in the column that can prenevt starts (all power goes thru it).
  • tnuddtnudd Member Posts: 1
    2000 gmc jimmy cuts out while driving. It doesnt give any sign that it is going to. has to sit for about 10 minutes before it will restart.in one hour this morning it did it 5 times. HELP!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Fuel, spark, or electrical so have to start stepping thru them or take it to the dealer to be scanned. Could be failing fuel pump, bad connections, relay, clogging fuel filter. Then spark so coil, cap/rotor, pugs, wires, etc. Then theres other possible sensors, ignition switch, etc.
  • jack74jack74 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy that has simply stopped running 3 times recently while driving. It will restat after a minute or so and may go for 10 or 20 miles before it does it again. It has been at a dealer for 3 days and they can not find the problem, and it did not cut out for them.

    Any help would be appreciated. Frustrated in Virginia.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Were the turn signals on when it did the stall? If so some GMs have seen a low voltage thru teh ignition switch (actually the harness and connector) that triggers the PCM to shut off. If the security light was flashing thats the Passlock and again that harness. Then could be the idle air solenoid or an intermittant sensor - pain to see.
    They must of checked the fuel pressure as well as changed the cap/rotor and fuel filter to rule them out.
  • mkobmkob Member Posts: 10
    When I had that issue it was my fuel injector. Thankfully it was still under warranty and the dealer replaced it. I guess the fuel injector stopped working. My brother has a 2001 GMC Truck and now is experiencing the same problem.
  • wpgpaulwpgpaul Member Posts: 1
    My truck has had the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors,the intake manifold gasket replaced,all in an attempt to remedy the stalling problem. The fuel pump is intermittent after a few minutes at idle causing the truck to stall(CHECK ENGINE LIGHT comes on). While driving on the highway, the truck will stall out(possibly the fuel pump)then fuel supply is restored and will continue in this pattern until I reach 50Km/h , then the truck will stall out completely. Could it be that I didn`t torque the intake properly being that it spec`d a setting in inch pounds and I own a foot pound torque wrench. All repairs have been done in the past 2 months. Any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Per the Haynes manual, the 94 "W" motor lower intake torgue is 35 Ft lbs so that is x12=420in lbs. The 96 and newer is listed as 132 in lbs or 132x.083= 11 ft lbs.
    Year is critical on these so 94-95 use the higher 35ft lbs while if you torque a 96 and newer to that it will actually cause the block to distort and the crank with fail later (96 newer is 11 ft lbs.) Now if you did your 94 to that low figure it will most likely leak again.

    So what is actually the problem then - an intake vac leak, a bad sensor (crank, EGR, etc) or electrical (cap/rotor, plug wires, coil, ign mod, fuel pump relay, etc)?? Then some have bad/dirty fuel pump connectors at the tank that must be changed (Airtex makes them) or a bad ground. You have to step thru each one, no easy way. Then theres the idle air control on the side of the throttle body that sets the idle mix.
  • lizb1lizb1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 gmc jimmy. Sometimes it's hard to start, sometimes it doesn't start at all... thats usually after i shut it off and try to start it within about an hour. at red lights and stop signs theres always a chance it will stall out then i have to rev it up alot before it will go again. the guy at the garage said it was mass air flow sensor...but i don't want to buy it until i'm sure thats the problem.
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