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CPI models initial torque 35 ftlbs
CPI models final torque can be up to 41 ftlbs
tbi you tighten one side then the other
cpi is tightened in a zigzag patern from the midle
if you are really concerned get a shop manual, they tell you the order to tighten each
Steve, Host
:confuse:
Thanks
4.3L engine (not 2.8)
So, you have to determine that first to begin a fix.
It turns over/cranks OK so battery is good and starter good.
1. Do you smell gas in the engine compartment or on the oil dip stick - that could be a leaking CPI and lines (nut kit) under the upper intake so search that.
2. Test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail as I have posted many times.
3. Check for a spark at the coil or out of dist - use a plug wire and plug, hold the screw in base on a ground, and turn it over and is there a spark. Wear gloves or some non conducting holder or it will zap you and if you have a weak heart do NOT do this.
4. Last tuneup with a cap/rotor, plugs, wires, PCV. Caps/rotors do fail and seen some internally arc and impossible to detect so change - cheap insurance you aren't fighting that one - my 99 aftermarket cap did this after 1 year so now I buy Delco caps - drove my crazy testing.
5. Then on to sensors etc such as crank sensor under the front of the engine ($60), ignition module in the dist ($80) in 95 down (on coil 96up), and MAP on intake - but those can be determined with a scan tool ($400 up) that most shops and all dealers have so you can throw parts at it without a scanner or tow it in and take a rest.
Then possible coil or sensor so is a SES light on and any code? Lots of options here.
thanks
nick
Anyone got any suggestions? I was wondering if it might have something to do with the ECT sensor, since it starts when it is warm...? Thanks for the help.
-Seth
The truck will go into a severe bog at any time or speed and there is no pattern. Sometimes it dies alltogether, sometimes it don't. When it don't it will go to an idle and knock and ping like its not getting fuel reguardless of throttle position. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail it reads 55 psi and will raise slightly when reved. (My gauge hose is not long enough to stick on the cowl and read while driving so all gauge tests are at idle in driveway.) The SES light never comes on at any time when its acting up. Key on engine off pressure 58 psi, engine running 55 psi. When it stalls the psi will jump to 65 then an audible "click" is heard and it then drops back to 55 psi. Most times the engine will restart with a bump of the key. In the 10 minute leakdown test (procedure recommended by Alldata) pressure will decrease to about 30 psi from 58. The engine will bog/stall reguardless of engine temperature. Today while I was on my way home it stalled on the interstate and would not restart. I sat there for over an hour to no avail. Had to have it towed home. When we were taking it off the rollback it started right up. Overall engine performance has been poor, at interstate speeds you have to downshift to accelerate. Fuel milage has been 9 to 10 mpg. Converter was replaced one month ago. According to Alldata, the fuel pressure drop can be either the pressure regulator or "poppets". What are the poppets???
I was a mechanic until 1995 but left the trade before OBD II came into the scene. If it wasnt Christmas I would take it to a dealer and have them fix it but with two in diapers, the funds aren't there. We are primarily a one car family so any/all suggestions on where to go from here are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim
-Cap
-Rotar
-Plugs
-Wires
-Battery
-Air Filter
-Gas Filter
-PCV Valve
It didnt help. What the hell is wrong with my truck?
Please help.
-Eric
Any help would be appreciated. Frustrated in Virginia.
They must of checked the fuel pressure as well as changed the cap/rotor and fuel filter to rule them out.
Year is critical on these so 94-95 use the higher 35ft lbs while if you torque a 96 and newer to that it will actually cause the block to distort and the crank with fail later (96 newer is 11 ft lbs.) Now if you did your 94 to that low figure it will most likely leak again.
So what is actually the problem then - an intake vac leak, a bad sensor (crank, EGR, etc) or electrical (cap/rotor, plug wires, coil, ign mod, fuel pump relay, etc)?? Then some have bad/dirty fuel pump connectors at the tank that must be changed (Airtex makes them) or a bad ground. You have to step thru each one, no easy way. Then theres the idle air control on the side of the throttle body that sets the idle mix.