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GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems



  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Well, first the 97 only model (your lucky day) has a known defective ignition switch which is actually the wiring and connector in the steering colums that can cause that. Or maybe bad gas, clogging fuel filter, or something failed underhood such as an ignition component - hard to say without being theer and testing, sorry.
  • sueasuea Posts: 2
    Thanks, we are pretty sure it is the ignition switch. We are having a hard time getting the steering wheel cover off. We got the bottom cover off but cant get the top off :mad:
  • bmath72bmath72 Posts: 4
    I had the same problem earlier in the year. I took my Jimmy to AutoZone and rented their tester. I hooked it up right there in the parking lot. I then took the tester and the trouble code back into the store and had them look it up. Turns out it was the EGR valve. I could either remove and clean it, or just replace it. I opted to replace it for about $85. The EGR valve mounted right in front of the intake manifold at the front of the engine. Easy fix. Problem went away. Hope that helps.
  • cornbreadcornbread Posts: 3
    For the past couple of months I have had problems with my Jimmy starting. I have replaced the fuel pump, radiator, ignition coil, wires, spark plugs, rotor, and dist. cap. The engine will turn by will not crank. When it first started it would crank after about 30 minutes of trying. Now I'm getting nothing. I've even tried putting a little fuel in the throttle body to see if maybe it was not getting fuel but, it still would not kick over. Getting very frustrated. Please Help!
  • cornbreadcornbread Posts: 3
    I've read that if the fuel cap does not have a good seal the tank may not pressurize and will not send sufficient fuel pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. Well, what about the vapor return line connector on top of the fuel tank? If its cracked, wouldn't it have the same effect? :confuse:
  • cornbreadcornbread Posts: 3
    I finally got my truck started. And all I did was take out all of my spark plugs and cleaned them up with carburator cleaner. They were slightly fouled but still in good condition. I still need to replace my catalytic converter and oxygen sensors though.For those of you that are having the same problem as I am, before you spend alot of money please try this with your spark plugs.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Wonderful! Thanks for the tip.

    You might consider writing up a Guide - see the link at the top of this page.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ipa1ipa1 Posts: 1
  • my fiance the other day was driving my 1996 Jimmy 4X4 when out of now where while stopping at a light it stalled....she said she didnt even relized that it had stalled out if it wasnt for seeing the battery light come on as if it was in aux. Not to long after her and her friend had smelt a burning smell from the inside of the car and she said it seemed like the car wasnt giving the power it normally did. After she came home I myself toook the car out and everything seemed fine and i had no smell what so ever. Any one know what itcould have been?
  • Okay where to start, oh yea, I HATE THIS VEHICLE!! Okay, having problems w/ a 97 jimmy starting. All electrical come on but it is not trying turn over or anything when you try to start it. When I flip on the head lights on, the radio and the overhead temp/gas milage turns off. We have already this year replaced the fuel pump, tune up, new distributor cap and I believe that is all. I'm so frustrated w/ this damn vehicle, please help someone if you can????? I was also told that maybe the starter was going out, it has never been replaced.
  • I have a 1997 blazer with just over 100,000 miles on it. It's doing the same thing (which is why I signed up). It won't start and 10 minutes later it starts, but only with a full pedal to the floor and it sputters, but eventually it starts. My mechanic says it starts fine at the shop and can't figure it out either. It's doing this a couple time a week at this point. It wouldn't start at the gas station the other day. Cars behind me wanting to use the pump. No fun indeed.
  • I have a 1997 blazer with just over 100,000 miles on it. It will sound like it's cranking and wants to start, but just won't. 10 minutes later it starts, but only with a full pedal to the floor and it sputters, but eventually it starts. Then it's fine for a couple days. Then the starting trouble again for a couple days. Just had a full tune up with all fluids and filters changed, new oxygen sensor. My mechanic says it starts fine at the shop and can't figure it out either. It's doing this a couple time a week at this point. It wouldn't start at the gas station the other day. Cars behind me wanting to use the pump. No fun indeed. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • immanaimmana Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 4.3L GMC Jimmy. The problem now, which is similiar to one I had a year ago, is the car wont start on the first attempt. The starter cranks, but engine will not turn over. Usually on the second try it will start but past few days takes 5, 6, 7 times before starting. Also- when it is running, I noticed that when I am cruising the car jerks forward like I am tapping the gas pedal quickly. Not sure if this is related anyway to starting problem.

    In past 18 months I have changes: starter, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors, fuel injectors (spider), fuel pump, exhaust system, battery terminals, and a faulty wire in the ignition system.

    My Mustang GT had a simiiar problem starting and I replaced the EGR valve (???) or something like that! Could it be the same problem? Thanks!!
  • wljlds2wljlds2 Posts: 14
    HEY repairdog. Looking for some help. I am working on a 95 GMC Jimmy 4.3. My daughter purchased this truck when I told her not too. Long story short, this is a piece of JUNK. This truck has several problems.

    Original problems when purchased a few weeks ago:

    Previous owner replaced fuel pump and filter because the truck would not start. (lack of maintenance)

    Engine running very rich and dies.

    I was getting an EGR code so I checked out. The EGR was showing as energized when the engine was cold. Replaced the EGR and now the EGR works ok until engine stalls then I get no EGR code.

    I found that the fuel regulator and fuel return line were leaking inside the plenum so I opted to replace the line kit and the spider. While I was there, I gave the truck new plugs, cap, button, and wires. Can we say $$$$$$$$? Plugs fouled out on 1-3-5 bank. Wires old and hard. Cap and button had normal wear.

    The trucks runs so much better, but it will stall or lose throttle response while driving or at a stop. I feel that the money that I have spent was not in vain, because everything replaced was bad or in need of replacement.

    I am now at the end of my rope with fear of throwing money into a black hole.

    I do hear the fuel pump whine vary while placing foot on the brakes (not sure if this relevant) another porblem of its own.
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • My Dad had the same problem on a 97, while driving it would die. I now have the truck (oh so lucky) and we had to replace the ignition switch last year and it stopped that problem. Just a thougth on maybe something that might be the cause of that, but not sure =)
  • I have a 98 Jimmy, 4dr. 4x4, when the key is turned to on none of the lights or radio come on and none of the gauges light up. Needless to say it won't crank over either. Battery is brand new and load tested. Could this be the key cylinder or the ignition module? Any help is appreciated.
  • Check all main power fuses and links if you have no power to the fuse panel. A bad module would be a no start not a no crank. Obtain a repair manual from a local auto parts store for reference. Back trace your power supply from the battery with a volt tester or wire tracker.
  • 98 Jimmy, V6 Engine, Auto, Clear weather, normal start. After a rain starter runs fine, no start until many tries. Then some misses then runs fine. No problem driving in rain. When it does start it is instant start and then some missing and then no problem. Almost like water in fuel. But with sealed system how can water get in. After a rain I open up the hood and engine is dry. No signs of water on any connections. Changed plugs at 90,000 miles, Engine has 93,000 miles. Any help out there?
  • We had that problem to after it rained, except it took a few days to start for the most part. We had the distributor cap replaced and it solved that problem.... :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Yep, if that is the original cap and rotor I would start there. A little moisture in the distributor cap can cause lots of weirdness.
  • I have a 98 Jimmy and recently replaced the ignition switch after the key got locked in it. Now it will start, but dies almost immediately. I changed the fuel filter and can hear the fuel pump engaging, so can anyone help me figure out what might be wrong with it? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated! Jennifer
  • I have a 2001 Jimmy that I've had so many issues with. I just replaced the fuel pump 3 weeks ago. Now it's stalling when I come to a stop. The service engine light came on & when I had it tested I was told it was an emissions leak? Then I took it in to the shop (3 times this week) and the truck does nothing??? No service engine light, drives fine for them. As soon as I leave (and the shop's closed) it stalls?! As a guess they installed a crank position sensor yesterday. Seems a little better today but.....Has anyone else had to replace this???
  • A bad EGR or IAC can cause this problem. If either one stays open while letting up on the gas pedal or at a stop, stalling can happen. Also, being you replaced the fuel pump, the higher pressure could have finished opening up a cracked fuel return line inside the plenum which causes the engine to run rich because there is fuel inside the plenum. Generally speaking though, a bad EGR and IAC will throw a code (check engine light will come on).
  • If your Jimmy has the anti-theft key (chip in the key) and you replaced the ignition with a new key that is also an anti-theft key, you will have to have the new key programed to your vehicle.
  • Thank you:-) I'm going to see how it drives today & let the shop know!! THANKS AGAIN!!!
  • No anti-theft key. I'm thinking it's probably an electrical issue? But, thanks for the reply!
  • Is there a fuel pump cut off switch somewhere that I can reset?
  • I'm not sure about a cut-off switch causing the problem. Normally if the cut-off switch is tripped, you have to reset it before the fuel pump will even start. Clogged filter or bad fuel pump can cause this problem. Check your fuel pressure. I think it should be around 55 - 60 psi with key on, engine off, and around 50 - 55 psi with engine running. This would also be a good time to check leak-down of the fuel injector. If pressure is good, leave the pressure gage on and see how long it holds pressure with the key off. This should last at least 10 minutes. You also have fuel pump relay in the glove box (I think). If the relay is bad, it will shut down your pump. If the relay is in the glove box, there should also be a horn relay next to it. They both look alike and are the same. You can switch the two relays around (one for the other) and if the problem goes away, then the relay was bad. If not, then the relay is ok. Double check the security/anti-theft if applicable by locking and unlocking your system with the key at the door.

    So in short, I would check things in this order.

    1. relay
    2. fuel pressure

    3. replace filter if pressure is low but holding
    (but you replaced it)

    4. check for voltage drop at fuel pump (should be 12 volts)
    5. replace pump if pressure is still low
  • I put the old ignition switch back on and now it's starting and running just fine. Could AutoZone have given me the wrong part or maybe a bad one? Hopefully it continues to start and run right. I appreciate all your advice and if it happens again I will be sure and try the things you suggested.
  • It could be possible that you got the wrong ignition from AutoZone. The reason that I was focusing on the security aspect is that this all happened after you changed the ignition switch and that if something else was wrong, it would be purely coincidental, like you know, one in a billion chance. My personal opinion is to stay away from AutoZone when it comes to electronics of any type and most other things. I have been turning wrenches for thirty years and I have narrowed it down to a few sources that I use and trust. Advance Auto, NAPA, and Car Quest. I stay away from parts manufacturer names like Wells, Master, and Exact. Stick with names that are trusted like; AC, Autolite, Bosch, Standard, GP Sorenson, and OE names. If I were you, I would establish a good relationship with one or two very well established parts stores that have knowledgeable sales people and strong management. I have done this over the years and it has been very helpful. I establish cash commercial accounts and treat them as if I want to be treated. This gives you negotiating power. I get commercial pricing and I like to beat them down on prices as well from time to time. Example is like when I replaced a radiator in a 95 Jimmy, I purchased it for 123.00. I even get delivery service if time is on my side. I take in doughnuts from time to time; this will win you friends every time.
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