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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

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    dthesmandthesman Member Posts: 5
    seal up the bottom of the distributor cap and see if all youre plug boots are seated properly but put som dielectric grease in those plug boots and see if that works or if u have an exposed spot in a main wire near metal
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Every now and then I'll flip the distributor cap up, take my pocket knife, and scrape the terminals / rotor. Some times I'll use dielectric if its handy. I wish the cap had a vent on top like some of the other rigs do.
    :)
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    dthesmandthesman Member Posts: 5
    I took my 91 standard cab short-bed 2 wheel drive and put a 383 stroker in it and had a 4' cowl oni it with open end towards windshield,Icould see my intake clearly well when it rained My motor would act like it was choking out and I thought I was pulling in too much moisture down the intake,nope,sealed up that distributer and boom problem solved,rainy day drifting commenced.
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    taewataewa Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1997 Chevrolet s-10 (s10) 2wd ext. cab w/ the 4.3L V6 vortec engine and manual transmission. It has about 125K miles on it. The truck starts easily, but it CUTS OUT WHEN DRIVING AT CONSTANT SPEEDS.

    It seems fine during acceleration and at idle, other than SOME CLANKING SOUNDS AT IDLE (not sure if this has anything to do with the problem or not), but as soon as I try to maintain a constant speed, it starts to hiccup every couple seconds. I am not experienced in auto repair, but research points me towards fuel pump and/or filter. Is there a way to diagnose this without fancy tools? A fuel pump is a lot more to replace than just the filter, so is there a way to differentiate which might be bad, if either? Other ideas???

    Thanks so much.
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Have you change locations where you fuel up lately? Maybe your getting some bad fuel. Before you spend alot of bucks on parts and repairs you might try a bottle of injector cleaner to see if it helps any.
    Good luck :)
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    taewataewa Member Posts: 4
    The problem has been persistent for a couple of months now. I don't think it is the type of gas, as I always get 87 octane, and I fill up at different spots all the time. Maybe I'll try a bottle of the injector cleaner, but I don't read very many strong "testimonials" of that type of product. Anyone out there seen it make a big difference? I am going to check out Haynes manual today and see if I can't figure something out with fuel system as well.
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    aaron12aaron12 Member Posts: 2
    My 1994 seems to hestitate on light exceleration and sometimes backfires or pops throu the throttle body.IT seems to idle rough sometimes also. My light came on so i read the code and it said my idle valve was bad so i replaced that it ran smother but still have the same problem. So today i changed the fuel filter but i still have the same problem. Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks in Advance
    Aaron
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    s100614s100614 Member Posts: 3
    Good Afternoon

    Same thing happen to me. I will appreciate any timing information

    Thanks

    PG
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    vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Is your truck's timing chain broken? If your 2.2L is the same as mine, you should first do a compression check. If you have zero on any cylinder, pull the head and have it done at your local machine shop because you have a bent valve or valves. You might as well have them change valve guide seals too since it's minimal cost and they'll already have the head apart.

    If you have compression in all cylinders, your truck was probably at idle or running at a very low RPM when the chain broke. You are lucky and won't have to pull the head.

    Next, when you start to pull the timing gear cover off, the book I had told me to drop the oil pan. DON'T DO IT. Instead, you can remove the two nuts that are on the very front of the oil pan. THEN, using a torx socket, remove the studs that go into the block. You'll see what I'm talking about once you're under there. It will save you a bunch of time. The timing gear cover can then be pulled towards the front of the vehicle instead of having to lift it UP, then forward. It's a very tight squeeze with this engine so the way I described worked best.

    When I got ready to install the new chain and gear set, I set my #1 piston to TDC before re-installing the head.

    Before you install the head (if you had to pull it), install the plate with the EGR valve and the fuel intake line as well. Believe me, you'll be a much happier person then trying to install those two items AFTER the head is mounted.

    When you buy the new timing gear set, make sure you get a new tensioner as well. The new set will come with directions on how to align the marks and set the tension on the chain.

    What I did was take a large piece of cardboard and for every bolt and stud that I removed, I stuck them through the cardboard, used a marker to put a box around the group of bolts and labeled them. That saved me a lot of time during reassembly. Good luck!

    vi-kan
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    shokwav68shokwav68 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 blazer with the 4.3 CPI "W" engine. The engine has 40,000 miles on it. Was a Jasper long block replacement. Recently under full throttle after engine is warmed up it bogs and backfires through the plenum you can hear it. No trouble codes are stored in the ECM. Was wondering if the problem centered around the TPS? Any ideas would be appreciated greatly. I would rather replace a 30.00 sensor than take it to a mechanic and pay the diagnostic costs.
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    flashqflashq Member Posts: 1
    I have a Chevrolet S10,V6,2002,4 wheel auto driver, my gas pressure is good, sometime it backfire through the air filter & stalling all the time, I change lots of parts like injectors ect..., but no luck, there are no codes stored in the ECM,no engine light on. If I drove backward, it drive good, but I go forward it stall.Sometime it will drive good,now it is worst.I am lost.Thank you
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    ncologolfncologolf Member Posts: 2
    Finally got my wet weather problem resolved. Was a worn coil wire that occasionally got splashed from roadway up rear of engine. Thanks for all the suggestions!
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    ahinsonahinson Member Posts: 17
    HAVE A 2003 S-10,2WD,AUTO,4.3L.DO THESE TRUCKS HAVE A REV LIMITER OR SPEED LIMITER ON THEM.TRUCK RUNS GOOD IF YOU TAKE OFF A LITTLE HARD FROM STOP LIGHT.BUT,IF YOU ARE GOING ABOUT 45-50 MPH AND PUT THE GAS TO THE FLOOR AT ABOUT 5700 RPM OR 65 MPH IT STARTS TO CUT OUT.THE TACH JUST BOUNCES OFF THE 8-9000 RPM RANGE. AND GAINS NO MORE SPEED.DOES FINE IF YOU GRADUALLY GAIN SPEED.
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    brijarbrijar Member Posts: 3
    After checking my fuel pressure and finding it was okay, today I moved on to inspecting and replacing my distributor cap and rotor. When I took the cap off I discovered a small piece of metal lying on the distributor base. I don't know the purpose of the piece but here's a picture looking down into the distributor. There are 6 star tips, missing between the two star tips at the bottom of the photo is the piece I'm talking about. These aren't weights that are between the star points, are they? What kind of problem do I have. I suspect this could have been causing my S10 to run very poorly.
    image
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    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Here is what I think they are, insulators, so only the star tip is picked by the sensor.
    Not sure if you need to replace the dist or not, auto parts store would know.
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    wmcksmithwmcksmith Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 s10 and i have found that putting higher octane gas in my truck will stop some vibrating. I would also suggest a good injecter cleaner (Lucas)
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    aaron12aaron12 Member Posts: 2
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    monsonmonson Member Posts: 5
    my 1995 gmc sonoma has been running great until three weeks ago the weather got warm. my truck started to pop and backfire when accelerating. i was leaning towards fuel problems or maybe distributor when it got cold the problem went away for about a week and a half. the problem has returned again and its cold outside. continuous popping which sounds like an old car witha a carb the the engine is back firing through the carb. i have been told its something electrical. anyone out there have this problem or a possible solution.
    thanks dave
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    mschulmschul Member Posts: 1
    More then likely your problem is your catalytic converter. the baffling inside has come loose and causes the rattling and then causes the cat to clog... I had this same problem...what i did was just take the CAT off and break all the baffling up and make it a straight pipe basically. I dont recommend this to everyone due to emmissions checks in some states like california, but i am in texas where it isnt checked. Some people also says its gives a little better horse power boost aswell as better gas mileage. but your problem is your CAT.
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    taewataewa Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the suggestion. I have the same suspicion, as my friend and I were banging on the CAT, and we could hear it moving around. We thought about removing it, but wouldn't that set off the rear O-2 sensor or any other kind of computer check?
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    taewataewa Member Posts: 4
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    mmmoxleymmmoxley Member Posts: 1
    Truck stalls when at stop signs, lights, and when going around corners slowly. It will always start right up again. This tends to happen more often when the tank is below half. When the truck is in park it doesn't have a constant idle, rpm's lower almost to zero before going back to normal. When truck is about to stall tha battery guage halls off to the left slowly sort of like it's giving me a warning. If I could get some advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    A relatively inexpensive starting point would be to change fuel filter. :)
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    wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
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    wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i have a 96 s10 with a 4.3L engine i just replaced the map sensor the problem i have is when i try driving it the engine starts cutting out bad but runs great at an idle i can unplug the map sensor and drive it anywhere without any problems and when i plug the map sensor in and unplug the oxygen sensor it has to warm up before it runs ok it starts cutting out bad until it's warm the first time i had a problem it was the harness that plugs into the intake but thats no longer the issue. anyone have any suggestions on what is causing my problems?
    would apriciate any help
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    badluckwiths10badluckwiths10 Member Posts: 2
    fuel pump going bad replaced fuel filter didn't help can't find a price in town all over $300 please help find better price also my cat is going bad would like to straight pipe it but it has an o2 sensor after it how can i trick the o2 sensor into thinking it is reading properly oh yeah 4.3L vortec
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Did you check the plastic hose that goes to the MAP? It may be cracked or plugged. Or the nipple where it plugs in may be stopped up.

    What kind of code reading did it give? When you clear the code does the same code come back?

    As to it running better when you unplug the sensor, I've read on some cars the E CC can go to a default mode when the sensor is taken out or goes out, like an O2 sensor for example.

    At risk of being redundant, one of the first signs of a bad coil is it starts bucking when the engine labors on a long pull like going up a steep grade.

    Good luck :)
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    s10sss10ss Member Posts: 1
    i have a question about my 4.3 s10 ss stalling...iwas cruising at about 55 and 1500rpm when all of a sudden it just cut out...i was wonderng if thiswas a common problem..orif it could be the fuel pump or something...
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    keltecbobkeltecbob Member Posts: 6
    My son has a 91 s15,4.3L that has started to stumble on acceleration. It only gives a code for rich fuel mixture. I jump the code reader and watch the service eng. light flash a 45 code. I have changed the O2 sensor, and rebuilt the internal fuel regulator in the throttle body. Also has new inline fuel filterChecked the tps for out of range voltage, seemed fine. Cleaned EGR valve, wasn't too bad. But it still stumbles at each shift, and if I force the accelerator to make it shift it will stumble even more. I looked into the throttle body at idle and both injectors look to be giving lots of fuel, maybe too much at idle. Tried to test the Idle air control sensor but not sure if I did that right? Any ideas or how to test sensors better would be appreciated.
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    camojockeycamojockey Member Posts: 1
    hi, is your truck T.B.I.? if so check your egr valve and the egr solonoid. My 89 TBI had same prob. egr was opening and dropping vacuum in engine
    Maybe it will help
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    keltecbobkeltecbob Member Posts: 6
    Hi, yes it is a tbi. I tried cleaning egr and it didn't appear to have any problem moving. Dont know where or if this model has an egr solenoid. It has a vacuum hose coming out of it. still researching this one.

    Bob
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    philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    I'd bet good money your are right
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    philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    I want to see this beast. Got any images?
    Because when I'm ready, I'll dump the 4.3 when it's due time.
    I might go to a lighter weight V8 like from a Lexus or Beamer.

    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2378/2000071501_23bcf8e618_o.jpg
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    reddawg1reddawg1 Member Posts: 1
    I am currently working on a 95 Sonoma am having trouble keeping it running. have replaced all sensors engine will start but only runs for a few seconds and then shuts off if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate any help.
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    keltecbobkeltecbob Member Posts: 6
    My son has a 91 s15 that stumbles on acceleration. I have replaced the fuel regulator, fuel filter, replaced plugs, check wires for continuity, replaced o2 sensor. This vehicle idles fine until it reaches running temp. then it stumbles severely on accerleration and then throws rich fuel mixture on the o2 sensor. How much fuel should one see coming out of the injectors into the throttle body while it is idling. This one seems to be alot. I can see it covering the walls and plate pretty well just when idling. I tried to test the tps and the ignition coil and the ignition pickup inside the dist. but not sure if I am doing it right. Any help would be appreciated.

    Bob
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    michelle1971michelle1971 Member Posts: 2
    1988 Chevy S-10 2.6 V-6 4 wheel drive.When I
    drive the truck for 30 minutes I have to keep my
    foot on the gas a little, because If I don't the
    truck dies, and when I start it up it acts like the
    battery doesn't have the volts, but it only does
    this when the engine is normal temperature.
    Please help me out on this!
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    michelle1971michelle1971 Member Posts: 2
    When the truck warms up to normal temp,when I stop at traffic lights or stop signs,
    if I don't keep my foot on the gas stopped,the truck will die and when I try to
    start it up the starter tries to drag only when it dies.Please help me out with
    a solution?
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    michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    try the ignition module, it goes out,everything goes out except starter. hope this helps
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    michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    try replacing the tps sensor or it may be the injectors
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    airbysilkairbysilk Member Posts: 1
    i have a 93 sonoma 2.8 v6 have been having simular problem. have had trouble starting it , will fially fire then after you drive it just dies. put in new fuel pump and today ignition switch. but when i was driving i would turn corner and it just dies, tow bills are getting out of control
    please help if you all have figured it out yet
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    keltecbobkeltecbob Member Posts: 6
    I haven't figured my son's truck out yet, but I will let you know when I do.
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    mptimkomptimko Member Posts: 1
    Hello to all, I come in search of a possible solution. I have a 2000 s10 4wd 4.3 V6 vin W with CPFI (central port fuel inj). Well I have a mind stumper. A few weeks ago, my fuel pump died on me for the 2nd time in 2.5 yrs. So, after much cursing and swearing, I bit the bullet and replaced the pump and harness, flushed the tank, filter etc. It ran ok for a day or two but then it started acting up. What it does is when you start it and go it's great for about 15 minutes and then all of a sudden you can't do anything more than just tap the gas. If you do, say going up a hill or even on flat, it just bogs down and if you geive it even more than half throttle, it backfires up thru the intake, not loudly, but enough. Kinda sounds like when you pull the choke out on your lawnmower and it starts flooding out. At first, you could pull over and shut it off, wait a min and then do it all over again, but now it's gotten progressively worse. I put a full tune up on it when I did the pump, and just yesterday it popped the code for a left bank o2 sensor so I changed that and looked for any vacum leaks but to no avail.. After looking at what else it can be, I have gotten everything from egr valve, throttle pos sensor, maf sensor, clogged cat conv. I am at my wits end cause it ran great until the problem with the pump and I can't go to the garage cause they will kill me on diagnostic charges. Anyone else had this problem????? Thanks for your input
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    red91red91 Member Posts: 1
    hi ive got a 91, 2.8 tbi, 2wd, and am having some trouble with it. It will start up and run for a few seconds and then it will run really bad. When taking off it will start to die out in each gear up untill 4th thenit dont as bad. Have put new plugs,wires, cap,roter,coil,fuel fiter,air filter,iac valve,map sensor,egr valve,cat,muffler,02 sensor,cleaned inj,have checked the timing alot and found no vacume leaks,it dont give any code or light,took to shop they said map sensor, and now am looking at a fuel pump or tps or a 350 can yall help , kinda on a budget after th parts
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    creecaptaincreecaptain Member Posts: 1
    "What it does is when you start it and go it's great for about 15 minutes and then all of a sudden you can't do anything more than just tap the gas. If you do, say going up a hill or even on flat, it just bogs down and if you geive it even more than half throttle, it backfires up thru the intake, not loudly, but enough. Kinda sounds like when you pull the choke out on your lawnmower and it starts flooding out. At first, you could pull over and shut it off, wait a min and then do it all over again, but now it's gotten progressively worse."

    This is exactly what was happening to my Dad's 1997 GMC Sonoma, we replaced the water pump and haven't had a problem since.
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    detritotrophdetritotroph Member Posts: 1
    Im new to this forum, and have recently been having problems with my 2000 S10, a couple months ago it would randomly short and everything electrical in the car would turn off and on, and as time went on it would get worse and not come back on. So i took it to a Goodyear and they said it was a loose bolt on the fuse box or w/e, which appeared to fix it. Until now...it has come back with a vengeance, it'll die, and after jumping appear to not have full power, go 10 feet and die again. So i dont know what to do to permanently fix this aggravating problem.
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    cinchupcinchup Member Posts: 1
    ok I hope someone can help. I have a 96 s10 truck manual 4cyl. It has been a great truck until now. Twice now it has stoped on me when I am ideling. It stops and won't do anything. we let it rest for 15 minuts and it will start back up again. After the first time we thought it was the fuel pump and so we first changed the fuel filter, it was clogged bad. Now after it happned the second time we now think it might be my computer system going out. I had a mechanic look at it and we had it running for 2 hours and it only stoped once and started up right away, not like it has been while I was driving it. I don;t need it anymore I just want to be able to sell it running. Any help on where to start would be great. I have many people telling me different ideals but no one knows for sure.
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    vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    detritotroph,

    "a couple months ago it would randomly short and everything electrical in the car would turn off and on, and as time went on it would get worse and not come back on"

    Is this while you were driving? Hitting any bumps? At Idle? When you say "not come back on" do you mean it wouldn't start or it didn't flicker off and back on like your lights in the house during a thunder storm? In all instances, I would check and make sure your battery cables are connected well to the frame for the ground points and to your starter/alternator on the hot side. There's something definitely loose on the ground or hot side OR rubbing between hot and ground somewhere creating a shot. Be sure to check and make sure all your fuses are in perfect order as well.

    Was any electrical work done to it lately? New starter? Alternator? Stereo or alarm install? Subwoofer / Amp? After market DVD player? Sounds like it may be a dead short. Look for anyplace a hot wire may come into contact with ground. That's the reason for the questions about the electrical mods. I've seen where people install stereos themselves and tap into a hotwire under the dash and not insulate it where it rubs on the chassis or dash and shorts out.

    Was the bolt on the fusebox a ground bolt? Check for more loose bolts in that area if the fusebox bolt was a grounding point. Loose connections will temporarily disconnect and surge power like you describe also.

    That's the best advise I can give you with the information you posted.

    Good luck,
    vi-kan
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    elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My 96 S-10 (4 cylinder) sputters when accelerating. This gets worse as the engine warms up. Sounds like it's poping/backfiring in the throttle body sometimes. There is no check engine light at this time.
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    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    I would start with a tune up.
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    lilgtolilgto Member Posts: 12
    During warm weather (mostly summer months) my 2001 S10 has a problem with the idle speed increasing, once I notice the increase in RPMs I can shut the vehicle off, restart it and it goes back to a normal idle. The idle will remain normal until I drive it again for a few miles. I have taken it to a few places but each time they look at it the idle speed does not increase. This problem surfaced the other night and when I tried to pull away from a stop the vehicle about died. The funny thing is I can drive this vehicle for hours in colder weather and it will never occur. As stated this is a 2001 S10, 2.2 engine, auto and about 125,000 miles on it. All preventive maintenance is completed on time. I have a feeling it could be the 2 different sensors or the Idle Air Controller. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful.
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