Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options

Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

1235»

Comments

  • Options
    maillady3maillady3 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 gmc sonoma 4x4 i started having problems with it not idling when i went 2 start it but if u give it a little gas it would fix itself after 5 mins and run fine and wouldnt do it again for months at a time but then it got more frequent.ive put a new fuel pump,fuel filter changed plugs etc but now its started idling very high as well as low sometimes going as high as 2000 rpms .i deliver mail and sit n the middle so cant drive with 2 feet 2 keep it running and if u take your foot off of brake when its idling high it has enough power behind it to actually shift a gear or pull you up a small hill.i put a new idle air control valve on it but it would idle so low it would die everytime i stopped so i took it back off and put the old one back on at the same time i replaced the pcv valve ran fine for 4 days.it feels as if your pushing the gas pedal when it idles so high so i put a new throttle position sensor on it and cleaned the throttle body worked liked a charm for a week and a half but now its back to the same thing .noone can figure it out .also sometimes when it doesnt want to idle @ start up the abs and brake lights come on ,dont know if one has anything to do with the other but if you shut it off and restart the lights will go back out even if its still not idling,If anyone has any ideas PLEASE pass them on Im at a loss and so is everyone else
  • Options
    tabrown2001tabrown2001 Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem with my 1997 s10 4.3L Vortec v6, LS model. Earlier in the week i was pulling into a parking spot at the local wal mart. The engine died on me as I was pulling into the spot. I coasted and put the truck in park and went into the store. Came back out and turned the key and the engine wouldn't start. The fuel guage also was stuck in the far right "F" position. The truck turned over, just wouldn't start. I checked the fuses and fuse #10 had blown. I replaced that fuse with another 20amp and the truck started and off I went. It ran for 20 minutes and I stopped the truck again at a store. When I came out I turned over the key to accessories and I heard the fuse snap and the fuel gauge stopped mid center. I checked and sure enough the fuse had snapped. I replaced it with another 20 amp and it immediately snapped when I turned over the key to accessories. I towed the truck home and dropped the gas tank to replace the fuel pump and sending unit. Though not attached directly to this fuse, the guy at the auto store suggested that could be the issue. After installing the new pump, I turned the key over 12 - 16 times and the fuse never snapped. Was out driving the truck last night (2 days after the pump replacement) and the fuse snapped again. As I was being towed home I heard the #1 fuse (brake lights) snap. Any ides where I can start looking for this problem? The truck has a motor and transmission that have been in place for about 3 years motor and 1 yr trans. I hate to get rid of the truck but it might be time to send it off.
  • Options
    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Check the wiring all along the frame, and up by the transmission, there has been chaffing problems.
  • Options
    cvthtmcvthtm Member Posts: 2
    just rebuilt my 2.5 tbi engine for a second time (all internals are operational) replaced the: (distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs)(Throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve,oxygen sensor, temp sending unit,)(fuel pump,fuel injector, fuel filter, air filter)( ECM/ecc) So that leaves the: EGR, EGR solenoid, pcv valve, manifold absolute pressure solenoid, to be replaced. During my first rebuild I had the block re-bored to .06 (.60) over. During inspection I had noticed that the throttle cable had .75 of an inch of play between the pedal linkage to cable stop head, also there is a slow return within the cable assembly. Before I adjust the factory set idle, I would like to know whether anyone has SOLVED the problem.
    Thanks for your time
  • Options
    cvthtmcvthtm Member Posts: 2
    as the other guy said check for chaffing, as for your brake light fuse, check all bulbs at the juncture between glass of bulb and socket, if glue is busted they will short out intermittently. Do Not Hard wire anything that you may think to be shorting out, you will start a fire. Also as for staling while parking, check the valve between the brake booster and oil cover if bad it will rob hp and rpms causing stalling during braking.
  • Options
    willylee01willylee01 Member Posts: 1
    i have '97 s-10 pickup truck, 4.3 liter 4x4 automatic transmission and recently i have been having issues with the engine stalling. so every 1st time that i start the truck, the engine will stall out either instantly or within a few minutes. after i restart it for the second time, it seems to work properly. any ideas on what my problem might be?
  • Options
    picatudopicatudo Member Posts: 2
    Ok .my 2000 s10 4.3l starts right up ,as im taking off it shokes up for the next 20 to 40 seconds then runs fine ,if i let it run for a couple min before taking off have no problem..Put in new fuel pump,filter ,spider,dist rotor and cap .Anyone with same problem? please help....
  • Options
    mak4shomak4sho Member Posts: 2
    I would check the "Crankshaft position sensor" I had the exact same problem on a 97 Chevy Cavalier, changed the sensor after 5 days of trying to find out whats wrong with it, and it ran fine for years after that!
  • Options
    mak4shomak4sho Member Posts: 2
    Crankshaft position sensor, usually dies the engine once it gets up to normal running temp, once it cools down, it fires back up with no problem, untill it gets hot again.
  • Options
    scottlknscottlkn Member Posts: 1
    Ok, I have a chevy 2000 s10 2.2. Engine was rebuilt a couple years ago and has 40,000 miles on rebuild. Its idles fine and cranks fine. When its cold it seems to run ok but when it gets warm and you start off from a stop the engine will start to bog down,skip,jump,pop and backfire but if I push the peddle to the floor it will straighten out and run. It seems to happen around the 2500 to3500 rpm mark. It is a 5 speed so it is hard to drive. As long as the rpm,s are high it doesnt happen. Sometimes it runs great no problems what so ever. I have replaced feul pump and filter. Air fiter and tried varios types of injector cleaner and run several gallons of race fuel threw it. The mechanics dont seem to know whats wrong with it and just want to replace this and that and I cant afford that. Anyone have any ideas.. Thanks
  • Options
    hugh8jamhugh8jam Member Posts: 1
    Every time the outside temperature is above 75 and the humidity is up, the truck runs very rough. Sometimes, when I put it in gear and press the pedal, it won't move. Just sits there and sputters. When it does run, enough to get me home, I can floor the pedal and it will just sputter and pop and slow down to a crawl until I let off the pedal and depress it gingerly. We've replaced just about everything but nothing will solve the problem. Even the GMC dealership couldn't do it. They told me to have the catalytic converter cut out. :confuse:
  • Options
    jzm9790jzm9790 Member Posts: 1
    So I just bought this s10 for 800$ with 168kmiles on it the oil was leaking bad, I have that problem fixed but now when I drive it when ever its idling it's weak, there are pauses in the idle. When ever I come to a stop or take my foot off the acceloration it dies. Most every time, any got some ideas on this old hunk of metal
  • Options
    cttruckercttrucker Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 S10 has been giving me issues when i get near a half a tank of gas. It's quit on me on the highway, as far as I can recall always on in incline. Today it started with this with 3/4 of a tank of gas. If I roll to a decline and turn the key, it starts right up. Originally i thought the fuel gage might have been the problem, but when I add gas, its consistent with what the gage shows. I would think if the fuel pump was toast that it just wouldn't start, but i read something a couple of weeks ago that suggested they can get "weak" Any opinions?
  • Options
    vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    If the pump assembly is like the ones on the 95 model, I'd bet that the hose connections in the tank that goes from the pump to your fuel line is either loose or cracked or something to the effect that it's sucking air when it's not submerged in the fuel. That would explain your half-tank dying issue, especially on an incline.
    My problem was a weak fuel pump on my 95 that after driving a few miles, would drop in pressure, eventually stalling out the vehicle. It would idle all day long but when pressing the accellerator, would slowly decrease pressure while driving. I would pull over and it would start immediately and run for another 2 or 3 miles then die again, sounding like it ran out of fuel. I put an in-line pressure gage, between the fuel filter and engine with a long enough hose so I could duct tape the gage to the drivers window and monitor the pressure as I drove. I could see the pressure drop off and eventually get to zero when it would die. Idling was fine with full 30 or so PSI of pressure but when the engine demanded fuel during accelleration, it would drop off. Weak fuel pump.

    I would make sure your connections in the tank are good first of all and if they are good where you are sure it's not sucking air from inside the tank, I'd change the pump. A GM mechanic told me that those pumps need to stay cooler than most by keeping at least a half tank of fuel in it to help the pump from heating up and prematurely dying before it's time.

    I crawled under the truck and pulled the bed bolts (6 each), disconnected the fuel spout from the bed and just slid the bed out of the way to gain access to the top of the fuel tank so I wouldn't have to drain the fuel and drop the tank to work on the pump. Not a very hard job for a tinkerer like me.
    Good luck!
    vi-kan
  • Options
    fishwandafishwanda Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    After searcing for answer to this problem myself. IT'S THE COIL!!!!!! I put in a 400 fuel pump, fuel filter and $400 cat converter and the problem was a $35 part!!!! Runs like a dream!
    My Chevy s100 2001 acted like it was out of gas. It would die while going down the road. I could put it in N and it would start back up. It started getting worse but bucking and stalling when turning corners. Finally it would go about 5 miles and die and just wouldn't start. I had top mechanics looking for the problem and an OLD shade tree mechanic fixed it in 5 minutes! The coil is locted right on top.
  • Options
    abe_e_wabe_e_w Member Posts: 2
    my 2000 chevy s-10 is dying when i go down the road like its not getting gas.. i can put it in neutral and start it right back up and it'll be fine for a little longer
  • Options
    abe_e_wabe_e_w Member Posts: 2
  • Options
    rputricrputric Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chevy S 10 V6 that my father gave me with 80,000 miles on it, The truck sat for 6 months.It starts fine but once it warms up the engine runs very rough, It uses a lot of gas.. I have had it to the mechanic, had a tune up, I changed the mass air flow sensor but still the same..any ideas ? I have had great luck with this forum with my Ford Diesel, Any input would be appreciated!!
  • Options
    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    There has been issues with fuel hoses leaking under the intake plenum, not sure yours has them, check it out. 4 cyl man myself.
  • Options
    tolazytotypetolazytotype Member Posts: 1
    Im 90% sure its a fuel injection problem. Fuel injector. SES code: p030x ? Those trucks have a "spider injector" system that gets clogged up. I changed mine and it ran like a champ after. Its an expensive fix, but i did everything you did and had no results.
  • Options
    locomattlocomatt Member Posts: 2
    hi i have a 2003 chevy s10. it seems not to have the power it use to. when i get on freeway or been driving for while it slows down to 10to25 mph and when i hit the petal i dont see the rmps on dash go up. it feels like no power, when i gently hit gas petal it slowly gets going but never over 30 unless been sitting for while. idk what could be. wondering if anyone had this problem b4. i cleaned the mass air flow sensor wirh crc but it didnt do the trick. any ideas? thankyou for any help you can provide me with.
  • Options
    s100614s100614 Member Posts: 3
    Hi
    Have you check the fuel side of it / pump / filter etc / are the sparks clean or dark or moist / I am not a mechanic but have a s10 with 210k miles ;o)
  • Options
    locomattlocomatt Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2012
    hi ty bud, i got new filter, cant believe how much it was lol, used to paying 5 bucks for one, this one was 40. i also got a new thermostat. do u think it could be the catalacconverter? it sounds like something is lose in it, but im confused can it be that or fuel filter cause of it seems to go slower when it gets hot, first it goes normal, then slows to about 300, then slows to 10 and wont go over 10 or a crawl unless i let it cool at that point. it got this smell too. i was wondering if the catalacconverter would make it do that. i think it does on freeway faster cause im getting englne hotter faster. idk i try filter and thermostat and see what happens. another thing im also confused about is the indash gauges arnt showing it getting hot but i can certainly smell it. ty for ur help
  • Options
    gmguy68gmguy68 Member Posts: 1
    check coolant level. I assume the oil pressure even at idle is above 7-15 psi.
    What is likely is that the intake manifold gasket is seeping coolant into the lifter valley causing the lifters to rattle. replacement of lower intake manifold gaskets will likely repair this issue.
  • Options
    sonoma_ownasonoma_owna Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Sonoma having an issue when i let off the throttle, i get a bad hesitation and at highway speeds its feels like it might stall out. No problems accelerating or idling.

    Any help, ideas or recommendations?
  • Options
    sonomaguy1sonomaguy1 Member Posts: 2
    What was wrong with the wires? And where is the junction box located? My truck is doing the same thing...but I can't figure it out....
  • Options
    sonomaguy1sonomaguy1 Member Posts: 2
    My truck is doing the same thing...what wires were messed up?
  • Options
    ron253ron253 Member Posts: 1
    Catalytic Converter needs to be replaced.
  • Options
    fulk8fulk8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S10 4.3 that has had an issue for 5 years that has me stumped.
    Engine shuts down and will not restart after about 20 minutes driveing time but only in warm weather above 70. It will restart and run fine after 12 to 14 hours for another 20 minutes.
    The truck runs great without issue from fall till spring then the weather gets warm and the problem returns. When it shuts down the fuel pressure with the key on is 20psi.
    I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and the filter 3 times, no change. I have not changed the fuel pump, but my thinking is if the pump was going bad it would have quit compleatly by now. I have had several 4.3s and have replaced alot of fuel pumps on them, none acted like this.
    Any thought on this would be great
  • Options
    alexhannalexhann Member Posts: 1
    I have an '85 S-15 4WD Ext Cab and am having the same problem. Sometimes I can't make it a mile from home before this begin, sometimes I drive about 30-40 miles and it doesn't happen at all, however it will almost certainly happen coming up the hill on the way home. At first I could put it in neutral and it would start right up, but the more often it is happening the more trouble I am having getting the car started. The temp gauge will be in the first quarter one second, but as soon as the truck dies it flips up to overheated then back down as soon as started. Went to buy a fuel pump and the fellow told me to wrap my lines to prevent vapor lock, but I wondered if you found a reason why the problem is more prominent near a half tank.
    Any advice someone would have would be welcome, especially what are the cheapest things to work on/replace as I try to pin point the problem.
  • Options
    confused45confused45 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, just wondered if you got that figured out, I have exact same symptoms, works great from fall too spring, once it starts hitting around 80, stalls out and dies after 30 min or so, runs perfect in the mornings, and if I have a full tank it seems to help, sound about right?..........HELP!!!!!!
  • Options
    srsabusrsabu Member Posts: 1
    Once I've been driving a little bit on a warm or hot day, I'll go to pull away from a stop sign or traffic light and depressing the gas pedal makes the engine sorta rev, but have absolutely no power. If I floor it, it will buck and go a little, but not very well. If I feel like it is going to do this, revving it up and slipping the clutch on launch will get me by for one or two intersections, but eventually it will happen no matter what. The weird thing is, if it does it, all I have to do to get it to run normally for a little while is to turn it off and then restart it immediately. It never does it once I'm in motion, just when starting.

    It's a 2001 4 cyl, manual transmission, just hit 80k miles.

    Any suggestions?
  • Options
    mam0856mam0856 Member Posts: 1
    2001 s 10 2.2, 193000 mile. Anyone help with this, Truck runs fine however at times when I hit the brakes fast to stop, engine idles rough when I stop. Engine occasionaly pulses when driving fast, almost like its bucking. No codes. Throttle body gasket replaced, tune up, fuel filter, injectors cleaned and serviced. This occurs very intermintantly. May not do it for a week or two at a time, then will do it alot. The fast stops may or may not have anything to do with it. When the rough idle occurs the Tach rpms drop. It does not stall.
  • Options
    s10guys10guy Member Posts: 2
    Hi, have an 82 S10 pu with the 2.8 ltr non computer controlled that has a minor stalling problem. After it has been run for a while and is parked, it starts fine, runs for about 10 minutes (driven), then when slowing down it stalls when it idles (has clutch). I noted it does this when coming to a stop on a slight downgrade. Once I get the engine restarted, takes some cranking, it runs fine. Truck has 100k on it, great condition, everything stock. Original coil, thermo switches, egr valve. Any ideas or experience with this situation out there? Seems like it may be a temp related problem (thermo switch issue)?
  • Options
    s10guys10guy Member Posts: 2
  • Options
    91sonoma91sonoma Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2013
    Have a 91 gmc s15/Sonoma. Starts up fine, idles good, runs fine for a few miles then started acting like it was running out of gas. Hopefully this will save someone some money as we have seen this same issue posted ALOT on this and several other posts. We changed fuel pump 2x, filters, coil, plugs and wires, complete tune up as done, o2 sensor, idle air sensor/valve, along with every sensor we could find. We changed part after part with no solution. Finally we pulled the truck apart again, and found the problem. Not saying this will fix your issue but this isn't the first time we ran across this problem with 2 different trucks (both gm one being the Sonoma other a chev Silverado 1500. The fuel pump isn't holding pressure after its ran a few miles and starts acting like its running out of gas. On the Silverado the line that runs from the pump to the sending unit in the tank had a pinhole straight out of the box. We thought it was a fluke. After months of battling the problem with the Sonoma we pulled the pump out of the gas tank for who knows how many times and looked at the hose and what happened was the clamp that held it in place was still tight but moved up the hose just enough it wasn't holding fuel pressure. Why it took months to figure out it was the hose causing it again on the other truck is beyond me, butwhile you are checking possible problems it wouldn't hurt to check that it doesn't cost anything except maybe some small hose clamps. Save a lot of time money and grief. Hope this helps
  • Options
    zac13zac13 Member Posts: 2
  • Options
    zac13zac13 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 S10, auto, V6 4x4 crew cab. Sometimes, when I'm at a stop light and my foot on the brake, the truck will shutter and the RPM's drop like it wants to die. Sometimes it does die. I place my foot on the brake and the give it gas with the other foot to keep it alive. If I restart the truck, sometimes the problem stops. If I place in Park, it stops. Also, when I turn the car on, and don't hold the key over long enough, I will get the same symptoms.
  • Options
    chevyman40chevyman40 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 1988 Chevy 1500 4x4. I bought the truck with a bad motor. I put a motor in the truck I know the motor was good cause I drove the van it came out of. The motor is a 5.7 tbi. When the motor was in the van it ran great. Now that the motor is in the truck. It will run fine until you get on the highway and about half throttle it will start popping and sputtering like it is not getting enough fuel.then if I let off the pedal or mat it to the floor it runs fine. It does the same thing going up hills. There is a new fuel pump in the truck cause I had to put a gas tank in it so I did the fuel pump while I had the tank out. I changed the computer . I am out of ideas can anyone help please
  • Options
    sonomas15sonomas15 Member Posts: 1

    I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma extended cab with a V6 4.3L with fuel injections.. one day i was driving home and when i go to step on the brake to come to a complete stop, as soon as i reach 10 mph my truck rattles very loud and gives a push before stoping.... as i go to push on the gas it acts as if its a stick shift and gives its self another push like as if its shifting...im stuck as why it would be doing this, somebody please give me some ideas or info as to why it does this please!!!

  • Options
    lochadrolochadro Member Posts: 2
    Similar problems here with 1999 GMC Sonoma with 2.2L engine. My son was driving and it just quit! He got a tow home and we are looking at it and I notice the instrument indications are screwy (note, it will not start). The tach is pegged at max and the fuel shows emptier than empty with a full tank. When we crank it the voltage shows a rise. Sometimes the starter begins engaging without being in the start position. Note: This vehicle has a new wiring harness in the column and a new switch assembly...they were real problems last year with starting. I have not yet checked for spark or fuel pressure as I was led away from them by the unusual indications on the panel. Anyone experience anything similar to this?
  • Options
    tntis4evertntis4ever Member Posts: 1
    i am having a problem with my 96 s10 went to go leave for work and the running lights kept shutting off and the air bag light comming on and the truck would shut off any ideas what it could be
  • Options
    skybum36321skybum36321 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma 2.2 starts up fine after it warms up don't want to go,press the accelerate hard bogs down to a crawl go slow takes off,go down the road fast slow like bucking,replaced fuel pump in tank,in line fuel filter,both coil packs,map sensor,battery,Cadillac converter,and muffler,oxygen sensor on converter,carburetor sensors and it's still doing it any ideas ready to park it
  • Options
    Please Help!! My 2001 chevy s10 just died on me today while driving bk from a interview. After waiting a few minutes it would start but die again as soon as I would try to put it in gear. It is now stuck in the next town. I just moved and low on funds so don't have a lot of money. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Options
    sonomajosonomajo Member Posts: 1
    still trying to find digital dash advise (smoke came from electrical smoke came out and it quit working
Sign In or Register to comment.