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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems



  • anyone having an electrical problem on a chev s10 should read this. This actually happened to me. While crossing the burnside bridge my engine started cutting out. then the amp meter and speedometer went wacky. Then the fuel gauge went haywire, oil pressure fell to zero. I almost didn't make it home. A diode had gone out in the alternator. With everything being electronic these days the computer wasn't receiving info from the sensors. 2 years later while driving down the freeway the engine suddenly quit. I knew it was electrical. After a few minutes I found the problem. The negitive terminal on the battery had vibrated loose. Thats right! every eletronic system in the truck fails all at once with just one screw loose. If this were a military vehicle GM would be buying back everyone sold as new defective.
  • Hey I was wondering if you ever got this resolved. I have the same exact truck and it's doing the same thing. I can't figure it out. Can you please let me know what you did to fix this problem. Thanks.
  • ive been dealing with this problem for months now...replaced almost everything...fuel pump, spider injector(which was conversion to multiport), fuel filter, aif filter, spark plugs(twice) spark wires, distributo cap and rotor as well as distributor itself, alternator, battery, ignition coil, map sensor, catalytic convertor, but the truck still wants to buck and cut out when cruising on highway and either going uphill and putting it under a load...or just when i pass a car and come off the gas...does it one day, then not the next, then does it for a week straight, then it goes off....only thing is one day when i shimmied the main harness that runs across the intake plenum it kinda got better for a day or two....did it again and i got no about two steps away from driving it over a cliff i need some help!!!
  • almost forgot, MIL kicks on sometimes when it hesitates, codes is a po452 evap emissions, and when it gets bad i get a bunch of codes like tp sensor and map sensor, which i have already replaced both of those too.....
  • gk10gk10 Posts: 2
    I took my S-10 to three shops (Chevy dealer was the last one). Bottom line is that the fuel pump was not holding pressure while driving. I bought an "original equipment" fuel pump online and had the first shop install it. That resolved the problem. NOTE: Don't skimp on the replacement fuel pump - the off brand ones go bad within a few months. Good info from the mechanic.
  • I'm having the same problem but hasn't thrown that code. Have you ever found the problem?
  • I found the problem the small rubber line between the pump and line in the tank ruptured.
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Had my truck just stall while driving on the road. First thing I though of was maybe a fuel problem, changed the filter and still no luck. Did not think of it at first but realized the fuel pump was not kicking on, also found the battery was drained down. Took the alternator and had it checked and found it was charging at 17 V. Also found the ECM fuse was blown. Changed the fuse and the alternator and the truck started right up, ran for about 3 min and shut right off again. The ECM fuse keeps blowing. Replaced the Fuel pump relay and still no luck. When you turn the key on it instantly blows the ECM fuse. Take the fuel pump relay apart and the fuse does not blow, but naturally the truck won't start. Also just for the sake of spending money to help the economy, I replaced the ECM. Help!!!!!!!! Doc
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    As you know that fuse is also for the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump at the tank, if it still blows, check the fuel pump wiring for a short to ground.
  • JAustJAust Posts: 1
    I have also done everything I could think of but still the truck will idle fine but won't move when driving. Fuel pump checked ok, new fuel filter, new air filter, spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor. Truck still wants to buck and cut out when cruising going uphill and putting it under a load. Has anyone had any luck with cleaning up the injector contacts under the manifold cover or by replacing the PCM?
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    What exactly goes bad with the fuel pump? Is it necessary to replace the whole inside the tank fuel pump to correct the problem? How hard is it to drop the tank on this truck? Sorry for all the questions, it's just things coming in my head, that I'm not looking forward to. Thanks, :sick: Doc
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    The motor part, the brushes wear out. They come as a module, the best prices are online, I recommend another Delco.
    If I was to do mine I would loosen all the bolts on the passenger side of the bed, leave the nuts on a few threads. Don't forget the wiring, ground, tail lights, fill hose etc.. Remove all the bolts on the driver side, jack up the driver side until you have enough clearance. You must trig the bed really good so it will not fall on you.
    Well dropping the tank is not too bad if empty, if lots of fuel you need a jack.
    FWIW the pumps don't usually blow the fuse, a short in the wiring would.
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Just to let you know, I did replace the fuel pump today, all went ok and the truck purrs like a kitten. Thanks for all your help. Do :shades: :)
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Thanks for the update.
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Have an overheating problem with my 93 Sonoma 4.3 EFI
    I can't seem to put enough water or coolant in the radiator. I fill it and can stand there and watch the level go down. The radiator just never seems to fill. The other thing is I turned on the heater and it started blowing hot air but then it turned cool. Don't know if these are connected or not? Any suggestions? Thanks, Doc
  • fws4fws4 Posts: 5
    My 1998 S 10 developed a bad leak in the exhaust flex pipe, and before I could fix it, it also developed a high idle at all times. Could the leak be causing the hi idle? I pulled codes 137, 451, and 507. Would the O2 code (137) cause hi idle? 507 is the Idle Control System, but I can't find the sensor to check it. Just started this, and trying to focus so I don't just start replacing working sensors. Cannot find any vacuum leaks so far. Cleaned the intake butterfly - it is closed at startup. Where can I find an illustration of sensor locations? My Haines manual doesn't show their locations. Thanks in advance.
  • mrtruemrtrue Posts: 1
    With my '92 (4.3), the problem was solved by replacing the distributor. It seems that the magnetic pick up in the distributor signals the injectors when to fire, and with how much fuel, so when it gave a weak signal, there was virtually no stream of fuel, and them , after a few rotations there was a strong signal, plenty of fuel. Eventually almost no signal, so not even enough fuel to start the engine. Of course, to get to this conclusion, I first put a $50 ECM in the old distributor, and a $40 coil. Remember, electronic parts are non-returnable, so I would recommend changing out the $120 distributor rather than the ECM, as it solves many other ignition related issues on these older motors.
  • I see alot of you with the same problem I am having. My truck will all of a sudden bog down when I try to accelerate. If I'm really light on the pedal it will slowly get up to speed but if I give it a little gas the rpms hit about 2500 and the car doesn't move. I replace the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, removed catalact converter. Its been checked twice by my mechanic. It may be that damn fuel pump even though its been tested. It wasn't oem though as most would recommend. I really wish I had one, I got a 1 year on the pump but I don't think I can actually get a refund. Is there anything anyone has figured out with this? :mad:
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    2500 rpm and not going anywhere sounds like a transmission problem, slipping.
  • slvchrisslvchris Posts: 1
    The truck shuts off when you turn the wheel all the way. Have replaced the ignition switch. sensor on power steering line. Checke dlines for blockage. This one has me stumped. Any help would be great. Thanks
  • So basically i have a 98 sonoma with about 125xxx miles on it.. i just bought it from a guy and he had told me truck ran fine and the fuel pump had recently been replaced.. what happens is i will drive down the road for almost exactly 10 miles or so, then the truck typically will surge and die, and will crank over but not start unless its left alone for about 5 min...the truck also spits out a obd2 code #1632 which is a theft deterrent fuel shutoff code..i was told a common result of this issue had to do with the ignition cylinder and the sensors surrounding it, so i replaced them, but here i am still with the same problem. does anyone have any advice on how to fix this or know what is causing the problem?
  • when i mean hot i mean outside temp. 90 degree day. I`ve replaced ignition module,coil,distributor and rotor,fuel pump, fuel pump relay,crank shaft position pickup,fuel filter(of course),plugs and wires.On a hot day it will buck then shut down. 20 to 30 minutes of cool down it will start and run for miles. never a problem in winter. new thermostat, doestn`t really over heat, gauge reads 200f. any help appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Sounds like vapor lock, some where a fuel line is getting too hot.
  • slstusmcslstusmc Posts: 1
    My Dad's '94 Somoma has no fuel to the carb. What fuse supplies power to the pump, and where is it? The relay is under the dash in the middle, but which relay is it? I don't think there is voltage going to the pump. If it is the pump, I was told the best way to replace it would be to raise the bed. Can an aftermarket inline electric fuel pump work to replace the pump in the tank? Thanks for your help!!
  • bigdazbigdaz Posts: 2
    The final fix. Sorry for not getting this posted sooner. Removed the aluminum bracket that holds the ignition control electronics and coils. Cleaned up and insulated using fiber washers from ACE (to prevent heat transfer from the engine block thru the bracket into the ign cntl elec & coils. Applied generous anount of heat sink compound to the ign cntl elec and made a wire strap to connect the bracket to engine block just in case gnd is needed thru bracket. Stalling problem no more!!! You may need to also replace the ign cntl elec and/or coils if damaged by over heating.
  • mags468mags468 Posts: 10
    my sonoma started stalling while i would be going down the road. thenstart right back up on its own. then died completely and won`t start. put in a new fuel pump,filter to no avail. now had no juice going to the pump. traced it back to what i thought was the pump relay, replaced it. after a little bit of playing it started. i drove 300+ miles with no problems. next day it stalls and i have no juice, dash lights but the motor will roll over fine. this is a z motor. any ideas? thanks mags
  • chevy_schevy_s Posts: 1
    My 96 S10 makes ahissing noise under the dash when I use the brakes.
    It is getting harder to use the brakes.
    The fluid level has not changed.
    Once I push the brake hard and felt a pop and the brake pedal pushed back.
    Vacuum problem?
    Master cylinder Problem?
    Any Ideas
    Thanks inadvance
  • kevinohkevinoh Posts: 1
    I have a '00 S10, my service engine soon light came on, I got it diagnosed as an oxygen sensor, within a week the whole engine blew.... Does anyone know the book time for replacing the engine?

  • mags468mags468 Posts: 10
    this is a follow up to my original question, that no one had any answer to. The problem was the wires going into the junction box just under the ignition switch.
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Had a problem with a keak on my 4.3 Vortec and replaced the water pump, but now seem to have a fairly heavy leak that looks like it could be coming from the head gasket on the drivers side. This is a truck I don't want to spend a ton of money on so I was going to do the work myself. Is this considered a relatively easy fix or is it best left to professionals. I don't really want to do anything to the engine except repair the leak. Thanks DOC
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