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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems



  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Had a thought about if my diagnosis could be wrong and the leak is coming from somewhere else. If the head gasket was leaking, would'nt the engine run like crap?
    The leak is showing up on the top front left part of my 4.3 Vortec Z engine.Like right next to the Thermostat housing.Is it possible the Lower intake Manifold could be leaking. the engine runs fine other than the leak.
  • littleoscolittleosco Posts: 11
    We have a 2000 S-10 with the same engine. As I recall, our leak was between the head gasket and the block. My husband says it is a fairly common problem with these engines. We took ours in to be fixed and it was several hundred dollars.
  • Hi newbie here. I have an 83 S-10 P/U 4x4 with a 2.8 6cyl. in it i just bought. I am trying to figure out what causes it to die at stops. It starts up great, driving down the road fine come to a stop it dies. If you have any ideas that would be great. Thanks Bob :mad:
  • dstclairdstclair Posts: 2
  • dstclairdstclair Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sonoma ( 4 cyl.) that runs great and strong going down the road but when I stop and start to take off it bogs down and dies, It will start back up in 5 to 10 mins. and will run good for several days and then it will die again . I have been told that it is the 3rd cycl. I have replaced both coils, the plate that the coils bolt to tested and tested good. Replaced the fuel filter, plug wires, and plugs. Any clue what this may be? :confuse:
  • noxmartyrnoxmartyr Posts: 3
    haynes manuals are usuallly located at any local auto store , they have full electrical diagrams in the back and are only $20. well worth the money i own one for every car i have owned/
  • jschettkojschettko Posts: 3
    Did you ever find the problem?? I have a similar problem with a 2003 Sonoma Zr2.
    After reading some of the responses it might be a worn wire in the steering column from the ignition switch.
  • I could be the ignition switch i have a 98 S10 4banger that had the same problem. It heats up and causes more resistance in the connector which drops the voltage to the Fuel Pump And The ignition coils and shut it down. Then letting it cool down returns it to normal untill it gets hot. It took me atleast 8 shop and hundred of dollars and about 2 years to fine out it was a $92 switch on the key tumbler.
  • I have the exact same problem with my '96 s10 4.3 4wd auto. So far I've changed everything you've mentioned except for the O2 sensors and the catalytic converter. Hopefully at this point you've discovered something that I haven't yet. If you have any advice for me I would really appreciate it.
  • bizzy1bizzy1 Posts: 1
    Truck sat for afew months,had to jump start acouple times.Truck runs for afew min-then shuts dwn.Security light flashes on dash.Does anybdy kno how to disable Anti-theft system?I never had the keyless entry remote,but never needed it before!!!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    I can tell you where I think the problem is. The module plug at the key assy, remove plug and clean contacts, that should do it.

    In the mean while try this, turn key to run, shift into neutral, then start, might work.
  • I have a gmc sonoma that i will be driving and then all of a sudden will jerk and sputter and at times will die. The symptoms are all the warning lights will come on including security, alb, battery, air bag and service engine. and all gauges will flop down and back up several times until the engine starts back up, When it starts back the service engine light may stay on and may not the security light has come on and stayed on along with the airbag light as well. It is a manual transmission so if you are going down hill it will start right back up and may not have these symptoms again for days or weeks or it may do it 10 more times in a row. Most times it starts right back up, if you just keep driving put it in neutral it regularly starts right back ,sometimes it will not and you have to pull over take a minute to set and starts back up. Took it to a parts store computer code came back cam shaft sensor and crank shaft sensor replaced both of them and is still doing the same thing except it is not as easy to start back now . Does anyone know what this may be ?
  • I found the problem to be my positive and negative battery cables. Corrosion
    in the boots that join the wires at the battery and at the terminal block behind the right head light. I replaced all the cables and cleaned the connections, then I sprayed with sealer to stop the problem again.
  • Sometimes after sitting overnight my 1998 s10 v6 4x4 manual transmission, will start up and in a split second lower the idle to almost nothing... sometimes it will stall out. It will start after 3 or four times after doing this. Sometimes it does nothing at all... and sometimes it starts and runs fine. There is no issue when it is driving or running fine. If i give it gas when it first starts for about a minute it will stay running
  • Every morning my 2000 S10 4.3 starts perfectly in just 1 or 2 cranks - pops right off - but when the engine is warm, it cranks about 10 or 12 times before starting - and sometimes even backfires right away thru the throttle body - then I have to let it sit for a couple of minutes and try again - it will always crank long but usually start - I've changed the crank sensor and the coolant temp sensor and put a new rotor and distributor cap on - and changed the fuel filter - no difference - it also idles a little rough at about 600 rpm - any ideas?
  • Randomly, truck falls flat on its face while driving- Wide open throttle gets you nothing. While this is going on, I notice in the rear view that the truck is smoking black, like it's full rich. Pulling over and letting it sit for 10 15 minutes sometimes fixes the issue long enough for me to get home. Sometimes the problem happens again after 5-10 more minutes of driving. Truck otherwise runs great at idle, is not hard to start, doesn't seem to use excessive fuel.
  • What does the map sensor do?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Manifold Absolute Pressure Just sense manifold pressure so the PCM can perform its control functions. Control fuel, transmission when to shift.
  • im having a mess of fits with my s-10 a whinning noise ,and low acceleration taking off on a hill i have replaced water pump,power steering pump,accelerator,tensioner arm,starter,clutch fan,spark plug wires.anyone have any suggestions? :cry:
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    What engine? So you want the whine to stop and more power on hills. As for whine remove the fan belt and see if the noise goes away, just don't drive it. Check all pulleys for binding with belt off, make sure generator is free. Is the power only low on hills or all the time.
  • bitterbitter Posts: 22
    Not exactly sure what it is that is causing that, but It sounds like it could be your fuel regulator or fuel pump. Next time it stops like this, try a little shot of starting fluid in the throttle body, if it starts back up right away, you know it is a fuel issue. Not electrical. Always change the low cost items first, like fuel filter.
  • If you think it is the timing gear,check it out first. First, remove the distittor cap
    and have someone crank the engine, if the rotor turns inside the dist, it means the chain hasn't broken !
    If you have no compression and the rotor doesn't turn in dist when you crank the engine then you have a broken timing chain !
  • i would also recommend checking the heat shield on the starter to make sure that it isnt rubbing on the exhaust
  • I was one of the fortunate ones, I was able to get my car fixed within a day. Since I see so many people having the same issue and since I know I wouldn't have figured it out on my own . . . I'm passing on the wealth.

    My '97 S-10 was stalling at high revs. The engine would just give out, the lights on the dash would light up, and for a few seconds the car would drift and then jump start itself.

    I went to AutoZone and was ready to buy oxygen sensors, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs . . . all the things I would think that could be the problem and I know hadn't been taken care of in a long time. Figured there was a good probability that one or multiples of them would be the cause. The guy at the AutoZone save me a world of grief AND MONEY! Since the engine light had come on, he said he could just hook up the diagnostics and tell me what was going on. Good thing he did because, there's no way I would have that the problem was the one he diagnosed.

    It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor (I didn't even know there was one). It was a real pain to change out. It hides underneath the engine below the distributor cap and is NOT user friendly to exchange. But ultimately I did the job and the car is happy and normal.

    I guess they deserve the plug for all the money and time they saved me . . . THANK YOU AUTOZONE!
  • rfacctrfacct Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My 92 S10 blazer w/ FI, V6, std. trans., runs for about 5 minutes then dies and will not start. If left to sit the process will repeat. Let it sit overnight and it starts. I have tried letting it sit for an hour and it didn't. I have observed plenty of fuel coming from the TBI injectors when the engine is trying to start. It doesn't fire. I have replaced the cap and rotor. I can hear the gas tank fuel pump running when I turn the key. I have added fuel conditioner to pick up water. It also idles too fast. The vehicle has about 150k miles.

    I was able to get it to start. I simply disconnected the fuel injectors and let it start using all the fuel they had been pumping in. It seems as if it gets hot and then starts flooding itself. Is this a MAP sensor issue? Once it was running, I reconnected the injectors and it ran for about 2-3 minujtes before dying again. It seems to be running at about 1200 rpm (really high).

    Any ideas? What controls the injector behavior?
  • debrazdebraz Posts: 1
    HI''look I had the same thing with my 1999 sonoma4.3''after 2 fuel pumps''senors''and all''I was using the same connectors that was on truck from start''I changed the contectors on fuel pump for 10 dollars and it works great'''these trucks have so many sensors'you can spend alot on''i truck was missing so bad'i changed thottle postion sensor.check crank sensor,i was going to check cam sensor which is in destriptor ///and found a scew broke on cap // fixs and has not ;miss a beat''eveyone told me it was injectors''boy im glad it wasnt'''' ;)
  • birdswinebirdswine Posts: 1
    I have a 2.2 that quit and it would start and idle and when you tryed to give it gas it would die. We replaced sensor after sensor checked fuel pump and everything we could think of, nothing worked. Sometimes the check engine lite was on and sometimes it would go off, nothing made sence. Finally FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!! The ground wire going from the neg. battery terminal to the frame was rusted and not broken all the way off at the frame. Put a new end on it and it runs fine now. YIPEEEEEE
  • ltheggieltheggie Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 s10 dies while driving,takes around 20 minutes to start back,codes say theft system fuel disabled,fuel to lean, I replaced ckp sensor,still dies any help please
  • did you ever get help for this problem?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Erase codes and see what comes back. Theft will stop engine in 2 seconds after start.
    Lean, fuel filter, fuel pump.
  • i got a 97 s10 and i just took everything off after the catalytic converter and i made it so the exhaust goes between the cab and the bed. I also took all the platinum out of the cat. Well before that the check engine light would come on an off. Well know when i give it alot of gas an let off an I keep a steady pressure off of it it starts to sputter and if i give it more gas it bogs down and sometimes even backfire. Did i screw it up when i took the platinum out of the cat?? An i checked the plugs an they are fine. I'm at a total loss. Any ideas???
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    The engine is programed for exhaust back pressure, that maybe your problem.
  • joytulsajoytulsa Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    We have a 93 Sonoma that will start and idle. We have replaced the EGR sensor. The truck starts and idles just fine and will run as long as you keep constant pressure on the fuel pedal even when breaking. Any suggestions?

  • hey man so what was the out come to this issue. How did you fix the problem
  • lrbushlrbush Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 gmc 350 will crank fine and run fine until it reaches temp then just dies will not start again till completely cool i have changed egr v,throttle position sen,air control valve,fuel filter,
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Try replacing the ignition module, they have been known to heat fail, and when cool work again.
  • fuel injecters got hot would stall on my s10 jimmy. finally replace it runs great!
  • hi i,m having problems with my chevy s10 4.3 pickup after installing new fuel pump plugs fuel filter and wires and rotor and fuel regulator and new injectors and i,m still having problems no power stalling can any one help me
  • whospoopinwhospoopin Posts: 1
    in the hot weather there was probably humidity in the air from evaporation effect. in cooler weather there is hardly any humidity because the sun isn't evaporating water into the air. So your problem is your distributor. replace cap and rotor and check the shaft and cap base for cracks or signs of corrosion. if that is also bad replace the entire thing which cost about 90 bucks and about 40 for cap and rotor. also inspect wires and plugs. your fuel system is fine which is what is causing the backfire... its the timing of the rotor and pins in the distributor. a little bit of moister arks the spark to another pin firing the wrong cylinder which creates your backfire.
  • 1986fxr1986fxr Posts: 4
    Son's 91 S10 with 2.8, 5spd trans will be going down the road and suddenly dies. 10-20 mins later your are able to start it and will go for a while and then does it again. This started not long ago and is progressively getting worse. My suspicion is the control module under the rotor in the distributor. We have fuel you can see it squirting out of the injectors when trying to start it. Less than a year ago we did plugs, wires, distributor cap, and fuel filter. So we replaced the module this morning. If that don't do it, any suggestions? I just love chasing electrical issues. (not!!!) could it be the coil? Noticed the tach was kinda jumping around at idle prior to all this happening. And I really don't want to start wasting money plucking and chucking parts that I really don't need to be replacing.
  • mjguillenmjguillen Posts: 1
    my truck just started having the same problem, have you found any answers yet
  • 1986fxr1986fxr Posts: 4
    I replaced the electronic control module located in the distributor right under the rotor and that seems to have done the trick. About a $30 part and took all of 15min to swap them out...
  • i have had this truck for 3 months last month it sarted hesitating and would just cut out but turn over without any problem i changed the spark plugs and wires i got a new map sensor and changed the fuel filter couple days later it happend again it seems to run gud in the sun and run bad in the rain so i thought it wud b the distributor cap but today it cut out and is running very rough rpms go up and down n up n down and it is nice outside no rain no mosture its really starting to piss me off i allso found that the pink wire that runs from the coil to the distributor cap was frayed so i jus put sum tape over it i cant find enywer that have replace the wires i couldnt find eny 4.3 s15 i did find 2.8 though can i use those wires?eny advice wud b apreciated!!!!
  • Just bought a 2000 Sonoma 4 cyl, 5 speed for my son's first car. I wanted to drive it for a few days to identify any problems. About 20% of the time, when starting off, it bogs down like it is not getting fuel. Only happens from a start, but I find myself having to pull off the road to let other cars by. The truck starts fine every time, and does not seem to have any issues at speed. It doesn't die when this happens, but is a safety hazard when trying to take off from a red light. The problem only occurs, as mentioned, about 20% of the time. Anyone have a solution?
  • i live 35 miles from waco texas, it will drive fine there but on the way back every mile it will die and it will start back up and die a mile, if you can help me i love it get it fixs soon. :sick: :sick:
  • 1986fxr1986fxr Posts: 4
    We just replaced my son's worn out AC compressor and got his AC working, but for some reason with the newly added load it causes the PWR steering pump to "rattle" you can actually see the PWR steering pulley vibrating when it "rattles". Happens around 1100-1500 RPM then smooths out we you go to higher or lower RPM. 1st we thought it was the pump going out so we replaced it, the next pump did it again so we took that one back and sure enough this new pump is doing it. With that press on pulley we thought it might be a alignment issue with the pullies so we have pushed and pulled that pulley to different spots on the shaft but still it "rattles" with the AC on...When I bought the truch the AC compressor was bad so it we had the truck 7-8 months before we fixed the AC and discovered the "rattle" With the AC off it does not "rattle"ever....WTF??? Any other S10 owners out there had this problem?..91 S10 with a 2.8, 5 speed manual....
  • hi i have a 95 s10 v6 4.3 vortec engine just replace the fuel pump,fuel filter about two weeks ago it was running fine til a few days ago it will drive good first 5 minutes after it will start to hesitate lose power wont go over 20 mpg if i try to go faster will stall out start up fine after runs good then starts doing it all over again would appriciate any input on what the problem could be..
  • Turns out there is a rear bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold and the back of the power steering pump. It's been missing ever since we bought the truck. A trip to the local junk yard to find the bracket and then a trip to the muffller shop to weld it on as both exhaust manifold bolts to hold it on where broken off I guess back when the original bracket was lost.
  • my 98 s10 dies on me while driving keep pulling crank sensor put new one on does it again every couple days or so any can anyone help me out
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