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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

s100614s100614 Posts: 3
edited April 2018 in Chevrolet
Few days ago my wile driving my 1995 S10 2.2 I felt a little hesitation like it was time to change the spark plugs.
Another day wile driving the ENGINE light turn on and few minutes later the car just stop working without any hesitation
just stop and id not want it to start at all.
I check the fuel filter and visually check the gas pump flow and there is plenty of gas moving trough that area. Also check the
sparks and they are all good.
What else can it be? Ah! My mechanic came to see it and told me that the compression was very low and that is why the car will not start.
I have trouble with this because the car was moving so well before the problem
Please help / thanks

See Also: Chevy S10/GMC S-15 Maintenance


  • sjowettsjowett Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 S-10 with a 2.8L V-6 Carb body fuel injection. The vehicle starts every time and will run from a few seconds to sometimes up to 15-20 minutes. Then it just dies like you turned the key off.
    I have replaced the fuel pump, filters, fuel pump relay, done a check of all vacumn lines, checked all electrical connections to the distributor, coil carb etc., to ensure they are properly seated. Now I am at a loss, not sure where to look next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Steve J.
  • kreepin97kreepin97 Posts: 3
    Think it might have jumped timing? It is pooible...
  • ghoundghound Posts: 2
  • ghoundghound Posts: 2
    Recently my truck has began to die when coming back down to idle. In looking at the fuel injection, I can see the injectors stop injecting fuel. After it dies, it is very hard to restart unless it is left alone and cools a bit. If the IAC is unplugged, the engine will run at high idle fine. When plugged back in, the correct idle resumes and it may run a few seconds or a minute before it dies. I am getting fuel to the injectors. Any ideas on what is wrong?
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
    My Chevy 1997 S10, 38,000 miles just died. My mechanic said that he charged the battery and put in a new alternator and got it to run just to move it into his garage then it dies again. It is so dead, that none of the lights work, nothing. He thinks it might be an electrical short, but cannot trace it without an electrical diagram/schematic of the starting system. Where can I get a free download of this diagram/schematic? He is stumped and I have no truck? :(
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
    My mechanic just called. He found the problem. A wire going to the ignition switch was rubbing and shorted out. It must have been inserted incorrectly to allow it to rub for 9 years before it wore out and shorted out.
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
    :) :) My mechanic found the problem of why my 1997 Chevy s10 died suddenly while driving it.

    He said that the wire going to the ignition switch was rubbing against something and after 9 years of rubbing finally grounded/shorted out the wire.

    This must have been going on for 9 years. Probably never inserted properly at the factory.
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
  • tsavagetsavage Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 S10 that's doing the same thing as the initial problem. I have replaced the fuel filter (even though I did not think it was a problem) and the problems still exists. When driving sometimes (very sporadically) the engine will just stop running. Every now and then I will receive signs that it's going to stop soon by occasional hesitation. When it does cut off, if I let the vehicle set for about 10 minutes, I am able to restart and drive for sometimes days before the problem happens again. I thought that maybe I have trash in the fuel tank that may be blocking the inlet sometimes but I am not sure. I do not believe the problem is with the ignition system at all. When the vehicle shuts off, I can pour a little fuel in the carburetor and it starts right up; no hesitation and I can drive for an unpredictable amount time again. Please help...
  • mike151mike151 Posts: 3
    i am trying to fix a 1991 chevy s10 pickup for a friend of mine its got the 2.8 v6 and a 5 speed transmission hes had it for about 5 years now has always ran great. within the last year it startede dying when you push in on the clutch but always started back up just fine and ran great while driving. then about a month ago it started dying when idel and sometimes when trying to aelcerte. ive done wires , plugs, disterber cap and roter on it i dident crose any of the wires as i have checked them them. i took the fuel pump out and cleaned the screen and its seems to be working properly. i noticed the wires going to the injectores are melted but are working properly. it seems that the moter got real hot at one time but the owner doesent rember ever over heating it. i checked for oil in the anterfreze and theres now presence of it and looked at the oll its clean to. im not shure were else to look? i was conserding the egr valve but thates my onley sugestone at the momunte. has eany one else had this problem if so please tell me on how to fix it or mady what i can maby try. thank you
  • jdrobjdrob Posts: 3
    Truck wont start. I have spark and fuel. The motor does not sound right.
  • jdrobjdrob Posts: 3
    my s10 wont start. there is spark and fuel i can hear the fuel pump running.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    For a fast answer, you may want to head over to the "No Start" Problems discussion.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • cpl123cpl123 Posts: 1
    changed fuel pump yesterday,ran fine,today get in and nothing,went and got a new relay still nothing.truck was down the last 3 months till i could afford the big buck gm in yesterday to change pump and started up,now wonder if that was problem. any ideas?
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    I've got a 1995 Sonoma with the 2.2 and it suddenly quit while I was driving on the interstate at about 70 mph. I got it home via AAA and found I had plenty of fuel pump pressure as well as spark. I had ZERO compression and came to the conclusion that I had a broken timing chain.

    Yesterday, I tore it down and my suspicion was correct. The broken chain sat at the bottom of the timing cover. I replaced the set as well as the tensioner.

    I started it up and it ran except it ran terribly. It's like the engine timing is severely retarded. I am suspecting that I am out of time by 180 degrees. My chiltons book did not tell me how to go about replacing a "broken" chain. It only has instructions on how to "replace" a chain which would mean the timing marks would be correct once you got the timing cover off and looked at it. I can't find any information on how to re-establish timing for this engine. It is distributor-less so I am stumped.

    If you are attempting to replace the timing gear/chain set, let me know and I'll send you some tips on what I've learned during the tear down of the front side of this motor.

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I haven't replaced timing chain/gears on a distributerless engines yet but I would guess the computer system would compensate. In your description a couple of things comes to mind. Were the alignment dots on crank gear and cam gear matched up? Also some engines have zero clearance between piston top and valves. In the past I've bent exhaust valves and push rods when the timing chain jumped. You might run a compression check for peace of mind.
    Good luck.
  • chacon64chacon64 Posts: 3
    :sick: Hello:Would you please help me with this,i am re-building a 2.2 lt from my 1995 chevrolet s10,and i don´t know where to find the timing marks?. I bought the truck with a dissembled engine,also i am a mechanic. I live in chile,please send me some of your tips?
    Thank you.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Yes, I did ensure the timing marks on the camshaft gear and crank gear were aligned with the marks that so happen to be on the tensioner itself. Since the post, I have pulled the timing cover off and rechecked that to make sure. Then, for the sake of curiosity to see if I was out of time 180 degrees, I lined up the marks on the gears, then turned the crank one complete turn, which put the cam gear at one half turn OFF the mark, pulled the gear and chain off and realigned the camshaft so my camshaft gear would be properly aligned once again with the crank and reassembled everything. It started up and ran the exact same hell. SO, I ended doing a compression check and found that cylinders 3 and 4 were zero. I called the local chevy dealer and they said that the 2.2 is NOT an interference engine, however, there have been incidences where there have been contact between pistons and valves. I think it was because i was rolling along at 65 mph.
    I just got the head back from the machine shop with a full valve job. They replaced 4 bent valves on cylinders 3 and 4.

    I have never done a timing chain or belt on a distributorless engine. It's weird not being able to see which cylinder my distributor is supposedly firing on.

    Any tips on this?

  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Your timing on the 2.2 according to the Chiltons manual is not adjustable because it is computer controlled. No timing adjustment is necessary or possible.

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255

    Distributor out, crank sensor in, time marches on. Progress takes time to adjust. Remember when we use to get the tack/dwell meter out and fidget with duel points?

    Sounds like your 2.2 is one of those projects that turns into never ending, where one thing leads to another, fun, fun, fun. That's usually my story.

    Were the tops of the pistons and push rods ok? Did the machine shop change out the valve stem seals with new ones while they were in there? I had to replace mine last summer (seals) because it was puffing smoke on start up. I did mine with heads on but its alot simpler if you already have the heads off.

    Good luck.
  • rosymrosym Posts: 3
    try a fuel filter or you got a bad rotor.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I've got the same problem on my 92 4.3Z. I thought it was a relay problem and changed it to no avail. It doesn't seem to be getting any signal from the ECM. If you find the Rx for yours let us know.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15

    I took the head in and got a valve job as well as replaced 4 valves (on cylinder positions 3 & 4). No bent pushrods and the pistons were barely touched although you could see where the contact was made. The bent valves on the intake side were visible with the naked eye while still mounted in the head but the exhaust valves that were bent was so slight, you could only see it when the valves were out and on the bench. Cost: $278 at the local NAPA machine shop which I've used before.

    I'm still hesistant on the whether or not I should have the number 1 piston at TDC when my timing marks on the crank and camgear are aligned properly. If no timing adjustment is possible, doesn't it make sense to just line up the gears and let her run? I'm thinking that the crank sensor is what compensates for the advance/retard on the timing.

    I do remember messing with tach and dwell meters with the old point ignitions. I also remember sync'ing carbs every weekend as well....don't miss it!

    My sonoma HAS been an ongoing project. I've got but a few pages left in the manual that hasn't been touched. The brightest side to this vehicle is 1) handy little truck 2)excellent gas mileage....and 3.... well ...two out of three isn't bad huh? hahaha...

    I'm looking at a 2001 Nissan Frontier as a primary driver now and will keep the SON-O-MA Bleep as a spare. Sad...yes I know.

    thanks for the input!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Looks to me you're on top of your game with your Sonoma project. The procedure you described is the way I would go about it also. I'm not a 2.2 engineer but I would have to assume timing is orientated around #1 cylinder. Therefore, my assumption would be, with timing dots on cam and crank coming in alignment at the same time #1 is coming up on compression (TDC)then you got it nailed. Being a shade tree mechanic I haven't gotten into any exotic machinery yet like Variable Valve Timing and Lift but the 2.2 seems fairly basic. Maybe someone else out there in land can answer that one for us.

    My 92 S-10 is also an ongoing project. Like you said they're handy to have for occasional chores and putzen around. At present I'm going round and round with the fuel pump relay signal from ECM. The pump works fine, the relay works fine (new), but no voltage from the ECM. I took the ECM out of the dash and fondled and caressed it for awhile. I even removed & plugged back in it's removable chip. After determining there wasn't anything I could do to make it feel better I put the ECM back. What's bizarre is when I jump the relay to activate the pump, I then get signal voltage from the ECM. I'm at the point now to where I'm going to install a toggle switch and indicator light in the dash until the real problem surfaces. The truck runs good when I jump the relay.

    My son had a 03 Frontier with turbo. He liked the power but had poor fuel mileage. He traded for 05 Frontier 4dr, 4.0L, 6sp manual. He said it gets 25mpg on hiway and plenty of zip.

    Good luck &
    Keep' em Trucking
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Hi Hoodlatch,

    Well, I finally got my Sonoma up and running on sunday. I stuck with the game plan and it worked. That thing runs quieter now than when I first bought it used. I'm happy with the outcome but am still purchasing the 2001 4 cyl frontier for a mere 9K @ 55K miles. You know, after looking back at it, it wasn't a very hard job. There were a few things I would have done differently but that's in the category of poor planning for me. Like bolting the EGR valve and plate to the head BEFORE I installed the head. Also, I'd surely bolt up the fuel line that connects to the rack towards the back of the head also. Those were the two most things that made me say bad words. hahah.. Well, it's all done now and I'm glad. I did set the #1 piston to compression stroke and once again, checked the timing marks on the crank and cam gear to ensure they were right. Fired up with no problem.

    You talk about your fuel pump on the 92. Well, I had a very weird encounter with mine on this same truck. About a year ago, I'd be driving and it would suddenly lose power where it would only idle. I immediately thought my fuel pump (in tank) quit. However, If I shut off the engine and restarted it, it ran fine for another couple miles and do the same thing. So, I shut it down, turned the key on to listen to the fuel pump prime up. I sounded fine. Then I thought to change the fuel filter thinking a big piece of something might be making its way up to the filter to block the passage of fuel and when I shut it down, it floated away far enough for it to pass fuel once again. Keep in mind, I had an 88 S-10 blazer that had a fuel pump quit on me. So, I figured if the fuel pump ran, it was fine. I was under the impression that the in tank pump either runs or it doesn't run at all. Wrong. I finally tapped into the fuel line by using a T fitting just after the fuel filter so I could eliminate that possibility as well and duct taped a pressure gage to my drivers side window. Lo and behold, when I lost power, the gage would be steadily dropping to zero. I'd pull over, shut it off and restart and shazam! The pressure gage would read 40 lbs or so of pressure once again. I changed the in tank pump and all it's attachments that were hooked to it while it sits in the tank and all was well. So, I learned that those in tank pumps can get weak / hot / and sort of work and not necessarily just quit altogether. That one threw me for a loop. To change it was pretty simple. I unbolted the bed, disconnected a few wires and semi spun the bed to gain access to the tank, then pulled out the old pump and put in the new. Pretty simple. Later on, I talked to one of the chevrolet mechanics and he told me that the best policy is to keep a half tank of fuel in it to help with the cooling of the pump. So, I pretty much do if I can help it. It's better to see a 15 or 20 dollar tab at the pump nowadays anyway instead of the 30 to 40 dollar tab it takes to fill up. hahah... Makes ME feel better anyway.

    Thanks for the responses. Let me know how your fuel problem comes out. I'm curious to hear what happens.

    Good luck!
  • punky0711punky0711 Posts: 1
    Did anyone reply back to you? my truck is the same year same motor and is doing the same thing! I cant figure it out either.
  • mike151mike151 Posts: 3
  • mike151mike151 Posts: 3
    no one has replyed to my dying problem, but the other day i was working on it and i was trying to start it now the fuel pump is out so im gonna replace it and see what that does, besides that im at a compleate lost. but i have one more ideah im gonna try after i get it started again i have a 94 subaru loyal that dies when i push in on the clutch and the problem with it is that there is a wire harness down by the clutch peadle that my foot touched every time i shifted witch cause it to get a short in it so im thanking maby it might have the same problem so you could try there on your truck and see what you find.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255

    Got my S-10 running again. It purrs like a kitten. As it turns out it was like you said, the fuel pump. I too thought that with electric fuel pumps they either worked or didn't, like a light bulb. That's what threw me for a loop. Well, it's all behind me now. On to bigger and better things. A side note; if I had it to do over again I would have went about it the way you did by detaching the bed and sliding it out of the way. I used the procedure outlined in the book and dropped the fuel tank from the bottom. That was a wooly booger to deal with, but I persevered. I believe that to be a successful DIY'er sometimes you need to be stubborn as a weed and hang in there. Of course there is that 10% rule, you know, where one needs to be 10% smarter than the equipment there working on. Ha Ha The 10% rule is what trips me up. That's where these forums help me wether I'm working on cars, trucks, or tractors as to where someone else out there has been down that road ahead.

    Keep the faith! :shades:
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Hey Hoodlatch,

    I'm happy to hear you're back on the road again. What ever way you got the pump changed, the results are good right? When I did mine, my tank was over half full so I knew I had to try something different. Yes the 10% rule does come in handy. haha.. I have done a lot of reading on these forums to see if people out there have had the same symptoms and problem that I'm experiencing and have had some success. I really enjoyed conversing with someone like you who just by reading what you write, i can trust the suggestions and advice and actually understand the train of thought. I thank you very much. Since this last problem with my truck, i've gotten on Ebay and purchased the full factory service manual set from a guy that is brand new for 20 bucks. Yes, I am anticipating more problems with this kitten. hahah.. Thanks again Hoodlatch. Don't hesitate to write if you have any question I may be able to help you with. My main job is computers so I can help with that too.

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