Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

s100614s100614 Member Posts: 3
edited April 2018 in Chevrolet
Few days ago my wile driving my 1995 S10 2.2 I felt a little hesitation like it was time to change the spark plugs.
Another day wile driving the ENGINE light turn on and few minutes later the car just stop working without any hesitation
just stop and id not want it to start at all.
I check the fuel filter and visually check the gas pump flow and there is plenty of gas moving trough that area. Also check the
sparks and they are all good.
What else can it be? Ah! My mechanic came to see it and told me that the compression was very low and that is why the car will not start.
I have trouble with this because the car was moving so well before the problem
Please help / thanks

See Also: Chevy S10/GMC S-15 Maintenance
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Comments

  • sjowettsjowett Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 S-10 with a 2.8L V-6 Carb body fuel injection. The vehicle starts every time and will run from a few seconds to sometimes up to 15-20 minutes. Then it just dies like you turned the key off.
    I have replaced the fuel pump, filters, fuel pump relay, done a check of all vacumn lines, checked all electrical connections to the distributor, coil carb etc., to ensure they are properly seated. Now I am at a loss, not sure where to look next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Steve J.
  • kreepin97kreepin97 Member Posts: 3
    Think it might have jumped timing? It is pooible...
  • ghoundghound Member Posts: 2
  • ghoundghound Member Posts: 2
    Recently my truck has began to die when coming back down to idle. In looking at the fuel injection, I can see the injectors stop injecting fuel. After it dies, it is very hard to restart unless it is left alone and cools a bit. If the IAC is unplugged, the engine will run at high idle fine. When plugged back in, the correct idle resumes and it may run a few seconds or a minute before it dies. I am getting fuel to the injectors. Any ideas on what is wrong?
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Member Posts: 4
    My Chevy 1997 S10, 38,000 miles just died. My mechanic said that he charged the battery and put in a new alternator and got it to run just to move it into his garage then it dies again. It is so dead, that none of the lights work, nothing. He thinks it might be an electrical short, but cannot trace it without an electrical diagram/schematic of the starting system. Where can I get a free download of this diagram/schematic? He is stumped and I have no truck? :(
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Member Posts: 4
    My mechanic just called. He found the problem. A wire going to the ignition switch was rubbing and shorted out. It must have been inserted incorrectly to allow it to rub for 9 years before it wore out and shorted out.
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Member Posts: 4
    :):) My mechanic found the problem of why my 1997 Chevy s10 died suddenly while driving it.

    He said that the wire going to the ignition switch was rubbing against something and after 9 years of rubbing finally grounded/shorted out the wire.

    This must have been going on for 9 years. Probably never inserted properly at the factory.
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Member Posts: 4
  • tsavagetsavage Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 S10 that's doing the same thing as the initial problem. I have replaced the fuel filter (even though I did not think it was a problem) and the problems still exists. When driving sometimes (very sporadically) the engine will just stop running. Every now and then I will receive signs that it's going to stop soon by occasional hesitation. When it does cut off, if I let the vehicle set for about 10 minutes, I am able to restart and drive for sometimes days before the problem happens again. I thought that maybe I have trash in the fuel tank that may be blocking the inlet sometimes but I am not sure. I do not believe the problem is with the ignition system at all. When the vehicle shuts off, I can pour a little fuel in the carburetor and it starts right up; no hesitation and I can drive for an unpredictable amount time again. Please help...
  • mike151mike151 Member Posts: 3
    i am trying to fix a 1991 chevy s10 pickup for a friend of mine its got the 2.8 v6 and a 5 speed transmission hes had it for about 5 years now has always ran great. within the last year it startede dying when you push in on the clutch but always started back up just fine and ran great while driving. then about a month ago it started dying when idel and sometimes when trying to aelcerte. ive done wires , plugs, disterber cap and roter on it i dident crose any of the wires as i have checked them them. i took the fuel pump out and cleaned the screen and its seems to be working properly. i noticed the wires going to the injectores are melted but are working properly. it seems that the moter got real hot at one time but the owner doesent rember ever over heating it. i checked for oil in the anterfreze and theres now presence of it and looked at the oll its clean to. im not shure were else to look? i was conserding the egr valve but thates my onley sugestone at the momunte. has eany one else had this problem if so please tell me on how to fix it or mady what i can maby try. thank you
  • jdrobjdrob Member Posts: 3
    Truck wont start. I have spark and fuel. The motor does not sound right.
  • jdrobjdrob Member Posts: 3
    my s10 wont start. there is spark and fuel i can hear the fuel pump running.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    For a fast answer, you may want to head over to the "No Start" Problems discussion.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • cpl123cpl123 Member Posts: 1
    changed fuel pump yesterday,ran fine,today get in and nothing,went and got a new relay still nothing.truck was down the last 3 months till i could afford the big buck gm pump.got in yesterday to change pump and started up,now wonder if that was problem. any ideas?
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    I've got a 1995 Sonoma with the 2.2 and it suddenly quit while I was driving on the interstate at about 70 mph. I got it home via AAA and found I had plenty of fuel pump pressure as well as spark. I had ZERO compression and came to the conclusion that I had a broken timing chain.

    Yesterday, I tore it down and my suspicion was correct. The broken chain sat at the bottom of the timing cover. I replaced the set as well as the tensioner.

    I started it up and it ran except it ran terribly. It's like the engine timing is severely retarded. I am suspecting that I am out of time by 180 degrees. My chiltons book did not tell me how to go about replacing a "broken" chain. It only has instructions on how to "replace" a chain which would mean the timing marks would be correct once you got the timing cover off and looked at it. I can't find any information on how to re-establish timing for this engine. It is distributor-less so I am stumped.

    If you are attempting to replace the timing gear/chain set, let me know and I'll send you some tips on what I've learned during the tear down of the front side of this motor.

    vi-kan
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    I haven't replaced timing chain/gears on a distributerless engines yet but I would guess the computer system would compensate. In your description a couple of things comes to mind. Were the alignment dots on crank gear and cam gear matched up? Also some engines have zero clearance between piston top and valves. In the past I've bent exhaust valves and push rods when the timing chain jumped. You might run a compression check for peace of mind.
    Good luck.
  • chacon64chacon64 Member Posts: 3
    :sick: Hello:Would you please help me with this,i am re-building a 2.2 lt from my 1995 chevrolet s10,and i don´t know where to find the timing marks?. I bought the truck with a dissembled engine,also i am a mechanic. I live in chile,please send me some of your tips?
    Thank you.
    Rodrigo.
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Yes, I did ensure the timing marks on the camshaft gear and crank gear were aligned with the marks that so happen to be on the tensioner itself. Since the post, I have pulled the timing cover off and rechecked that to make sure. Then, for the sake of curiosity to see if I was out of time 180 degrees, I lined up the marks on the gears, then turned the crank one complete turn, which put the cam gear at one half turn OFF the mark, pulled the gear and chain off and realigned the camshaft so my camshaft gear would be properly aligned once again with the crank and reassembled everything. It started up and ran the exact same way....like hell. SO, I ended doing a compression check and found that cylinders 3 and 4 were zero. I called the local chevy dealer and they said that the 2.2 is NOT an interference engine, however, there have been incidences where there have been contact between pistons and valves. I think it was because i was rolling along at 65 mph.
    I just got the head back from the machine shop with a full valve job. They replaced 4 bent valves on cylinders 3 and 4.

    I have never done a timing chain or belt on a distributorless engine. It's weird not being able to see which cylinder my distributor is supposedly firing on.

    Any tips on this?

    thanks,
    vi-kan
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Your timing on the 2.2 according to the Chiltons manual is not adjustable because it is computer controlled. No timing adjustment is necessary or possible.

    vi-kan
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    vi-kan,

    Distributor out, crank sensor in, time marches on. Progress takes time to adjust. Remember when we use to get the tack/dwell meter out and fidget with duel points?

    Sounds like your 2.2 is one of those projects that turns into never ending, where one thing leads to another, fun, fun, fun. That's usually my story.

    Were the tops of the pistons and push rods ok? Did the machine shop change out the valve stem seals with new ones while they were in there? I had to replace mine last summer (seals) because it was puffing smoke on start up. I did mine with heads on but its alot simpler if you already have the heads off.

    Good luck.
  • rosymrosym Member Posts: 3
    try a fuel filter or you got a bad rotor.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    I've got the same problem on my 92 4.3Z. I thought it was a relay problem and changed it to no avail. It doesn't seem to be getting any signal from the ECM. If you find the Rx for yours let us know.
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    hoodlatch,

    I took the head in and got a valve job as well as replaced 4 valves (on cylinder positions 3 & 4). No bent pushrods and the pistons were barely touched although you could see where the contact was made. The bent valves on the intake side were visible with the naked eye while still mounted in the head but the exhaust valves that were bent was so slight, you could only see it when the valves were out and on the bench. Cost: $278 at the local NAPA machine shop which I've used before.

    I'm still hesistant on the whether or not I should have the number 1 piston at TDC when my timing marks on the crank and camgear are aligned properly. If no timing adjustment is possible, doesn't it make sense to just line up the gears and let her run? I'm thinking that the crank sensor is what compensates for the advance/retard on the timing.

    I do remember messing with tach and dwell meters with the old point ignitions. I also remember sync'ing carbs every weekend as well....don't miss it!

    My sonoma HAS been an ongoing project. I've got but a few pages left in the manual that hasn't been touched. The brightest side to this vehicle is 1) handy little truck 2)excellent gas mileage....and 3.... well ...two out of three isn't bad huh? hahaha...

    I'm looking at a 2001 Nissan Frontier as a primary driver now and will keep the SON-O-MA Bleep as a spare. Sad...yes I know.

    thanks for the input!
    vi-kan
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    Looks to me you're on top of your game with your Sonoma project. The procedure you described is the way I would go about it also. I'm not a 2.2 engineer but I would have to assume timing is orientated around #1 cylinder. Therefore, my assumption would be, with timing dots on cam and crank coming in alignment at the same time #1 is coming up on compression (TDC)then you got it nailed. Being a shade tree mechanic I haven't gotten into any exotic machinery yet like Variable Valve Timing and Lift but the 2.2 seems fairly basic. Maybe someone else out there in edmunds.com land can answer that one for us.

    My 92 S-10 is also an ongoing project. Like you said they're handy to have for occasional chores and putzen around. At present I'm going round and round with the fuel pump relay signal from ECM. The pump works fine, the relay works fine (new), but no voltage from the ECM. I took the ECM out of the dash and fondled and caressed it for awhile. I even removed & plugged back in it's removable chip. After determining there wasn't anything I could do to make it feel better I put the ECM back. What's bizarre is when I jump the relay to activate the pump, I then get signal voltage from the ECM. I'm at the point now to where I'm going to install a toggle switch and indicator light in the dash until the real problem surfaces. The truck runs good when I jump the relay.

    My son had a 03 Frontier with turbo. He liked the power but had poor fuel mileage. He traded for 05 Frontier 4dr, 4.0L, 6sp manual. He said it gets 25mpg on hiway and plenty of zip.

    Good luck &
    Keep' em Trucking
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Hi Hoodlatch,

    Well, I finally got my Sonoma up and running on sunday. I stuck with the game plan and it worked. That thing runs quieter now than when I first bought it used. I'm happy with the outcome but am still purchasing the 2001 4 cyl frontier for a mere 9K @ 55K miles. You know, after looking back at it, it wasn't a very hard job. There were a few things I would have done differently but that's in the category of poor planning for me. Like bolting the EGR valve and plate to the head BEFORE I installed the head. Also, I'd surely bolt up the fuel line that connects to the rack towards the back of the head also. Those were the two most things that made me say bad words. hahah.. Well, it's all done now and I'm glad. I did set the #1 piston to compression stroke and once again, checked the timing marks on the crank and cam gear to ensure they were right. Fired up with no problem.

    You talk about your fuel pump on the 92. Well, I had a very weird encounter with mine on this same truck. About a year ago, I'd be driving and it would suddenly lose power where it would only idle. I immediately thought my fuel pump (in tank) quit. However, If I shut off the engine and restarted it, it ran fine for another couple miles and do the same thing. So, I shut it down, turned the key on to listen to the fuel pump prime up. I sounded fine. Then I thought to change the fuel filter thinking a big piece of something might be making its way up to the filter to block the passage of fuel and when I shut it down, it floated away far enough for it to pass fuel once again. Keep in mind, I had an 88 S-10 blazer that had a fuel pump quit on me. So, I figured if the fuel pump ran, it was fine. I was under the impression that the in tank pump either runs or it doesn't run at all. Wrong. I finally tapped into the fuel line by using a T fitting just after the fuel filter so I could eliminate that possibility as well and duct taped a pressure gage to my drivers side window. Lo and behold, when I lost power, the gage would be steadily dropping to zero. I'd pull over, shut it off and restart and shazam! The pressure gage would read 40 lbs or so of pressure once again. I changed the in tank pump and all it's attachments that were hooked to it while it sits in the tank and all was well. So, I learned that those in tank pumps can get weak / hot / and sort of work and not necessarily just quit altogether. That one threw me for a loop. To change it was pretty simple. I unbolted the bed, disconnected a few wires and semi spun the bed to gain access to the tank, then pulled out the old pump and put in the new. Pretty simple. Later on, I talked to one of the chevrolet mechanics and he told me that the best policy is to keep a half tank of fuel in it to help with the cooling of the pump. So, I pretty much do if I can help it. It's better to see a 15 or 20 dollar tab at the pump nowadays anyway instead of the 30 to 40 dollar tab it takes to fill up. hahah... Makes ME feel better anyway.

    Thanks for the responses. Let me know how your fuel problem comes out. I'm curious to hear what happens.

    Good luck!
  • punky0711punky0711 Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone reply back to you? my truck is the same year same motor and is doing the same thing! I cant figure it out either.
  • mike151mike151 Member Posts: 3
  • mike151mike151 Member Posts: 3
    no one has replyed to my dying problem, but the other day i was working on it and i was trying to start it now the fuel pump is out so im gonna replace it and see what that does, besides that im at a compleate lost. but i have one more ideah im gonna try after i get it started again i have a 94 subaru loyal that dies when i push in on the clutch and the problem with it is that there is a wire harness down by the clutch peadle that my foot touched every time i shifted witch cause it to get a short in it so im thanking maby it might have the same problem so you could try there on your truck and see what you find.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    Vikan,

    Got my S-10 running again. It purrs like a kitten. As it turns out it was like you said, the fuel pump. I too thought that with electric fuel pumps they either worked or didn't, like a light bulb. That's what threw me for a loop. Well, it's all behind me now. On to bigger and better things. A side note; if I had it to do over again I would have went about it the way you did by detaching the bed and sliding it out of the way. I used the procedure outlined in the book and dropped the fuel tank from the bottom. That was a wooly booger to deal with, but I persevered. I believe that to be a successful DIY'er sometimes you need to be stubborn as a weed and hang in there. Of course there is that 10% rule, you know, where one needs to be 10% smarter than the equipment there working on. Ha Ha The 10% rule is what trips me up. That's where these forums help me wether I'm working on cars, trucks, or tractors as to where someone else out there has been down that road ahead.

    Keep the faith! :shades:
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Hey Hoodlatch,

    I'm happy to hear you're back on the road again. What ever way you got the pump changed, the results are good right? When I did mine, my tank was over half full so I knew I had to try something different. Yes the 10% rule does come in handy. haha.. I have done a lot of reading on these forums to see if people out there have had the same symptoms and problem that I'm experiencing and have had some success. I really enjoyed conversing with someone like you who just by reading what you write, i can trust the suggestions and advice and actually understand the train of thought. I thank you very much. Since this last problem with my truck, i've gotten on Ebay and purchased the full factory service manual set from a guy that is brand new for 20 bucks. Yes, I am anticipating more problems with this kitten. hahah.. Thanks again Hoodlatch. Don't hesitate to write if you have any question I may be able to help you with. My main job is computers so I can help with that too.

    Aloha!
    vi-kan
  • jdrobjdrob Member Posts: 3
  • alldayallday Member Posts: 1
    2001 s10 2.2 automatic: radiator end cap split and white smoke pouring out from under hood. pulled over in 30 seconds and shut it down. couple hours later replaced radiator and filled it and overflow to capacity. started fine and warmed up to about 165 when steam erupted from drivers side of engine. shut it down, looked for leaks/drips/holes found none. now the engine wont start. whats next? :mad:
  • the_goatthe_goat Member Posts: 2
  • the_goatthe_goat Member Posts: 2
    Ok, i have a 2001 Sonoma V6 with 107k on it. For the last couple months i have had a loud clicking sound coming from the engine, pretty sure it is the lifters. I personally have no way to get to them without a shop but i'll keep trying.
    The problem is this: When i start up cold, i get the clicking and when i accelerate i can redline the oil temp/pressure. At about 3rd gear it'll head back down but every press of the gas will pump it back up. After maybe 5 minutes, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, the clicking will cease and the pressure stays in the middle of the gauge.
    I've changed the oil and filter a couple times, i've used thickener and thinner in the oil but nothing has worked. I spoke to a fella at a NAPA shop and he knew of an oil pressure issue with older GMC/Chevy trucks. He says they lowered the oil pressure in these trucks.

    Anyone have a similar problem by chance? I'm stumped and i can't believe it would be my oil pump or anything like that.
  • brijarbrijar Member Posts: 3
    I have a '91 S10 4.3ltr. automatic, 93k miles. This past summer it suddenly started dying as I'd decelerate for a stop. I don't have a tach on the pickup, but it seems the rpms drop too low. It will make a deiseling sound, shimmy and shake, then die. The first time this happened I could not get the pickup restarted. Finally (after many tries), and then after keeping the accelerator on the floor it finally started. I've since not had trouble restarting it, sometimes I have to put the accelerator to the floor, but it always restarts. [On that day I drove it about 8 miles before the trouble started.]

    The pickup has had good maintenance. New plugs, wires, fuel filter. After this happened I changed the fuel filter again. That didn't help. I took it to a mechanic and he cleaned the throttle plate and the idle air control valve. He claimed he couldn't get it to die, but it didn't take long for it to die for me. I thought he may be on to something, so I bought a nee idle air control valve and installed it (along with cleaning the area it seats into a little more). That seemed to help for a while, then back it went to the same old die on decel mode. Sometimes I'll just be sitting at a red light and it will decide to start deiseling and try to die.

    I've also examined and changed a few of my vacuum hoses, but that has not helped. I tried running a can of Seafoam through it. That seemed to help some, then it got over that and has continued the same symptoms.

    I'm suspicious someone could have put something in my gas tank to have started all of this because one of my '04 vehicles started having symptoms a little similar to this at about the same time. I may be a little too paranoid, I don't know. Possibly some bad gas? Wouldn't that have worked itself out by now? I've driven it quite a bit.

    I've not had my fuel pressure checked yet. I've wondered it it was safe to disconnect the idle air control valve and see how it runs then. Is that safe?

    Any ideas what I should try next?

    Thanks,

    James
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I would change the throttle position sensor. That is the most common cause of this sort of problem and is fairly inexpensive.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    I had a similar problem on my 92 4.3 a while back. I started replacing sensor with new ones. It started getting expensive guessing which sensor was bad. Instead of forking out 30 - 70 bucks a piece, I started going to the junk yard where they were 5 buck a piece. Then when I found out which one was the culprit I would replace it with a new one. :)
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I recently traded in my S10 with 91K miles. It had that clicking noise when cold. Some call it a "piston slapping" problem. I switched motor oil to the 75k oil for high mileage vehicles (10W30). It helped a bit. The best thing to do is not to accelerate too quickly or rev the engine right after start up. Otherwise, I believe there is nothing that can be done short of a tear down of the engine. Good luck.
  • lithiumed1lithiumed1 Member Posts: 2
    I am willing to bet that you have your problem fixed by now but I am going through the same problem now. Man it could be anything from a crappy ECM to pressure reg (i have a throttle body) clogged fuel line, filter, plugs, MAF, anything. After you pressure check your system, the pressure should be between 9 and 13 PSI. Since you changed your pump, I would lean to an injector. Best of luck
  • jrockojrocko Member Posts: 2
    Any luck with your issue? I am having a very similar issue with my 94 Sonoma 4.3L. I replace the fuel pump, sending unit and filter, but it is still losing fuel pressure. I assume there is no signal getting to the pump, but not sure where to start looking (ECM, relay, ignition wiring?). Any ideas would help.
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Hi J,

    First of all, there are two 4.3L engines available. One is with CPI (central port injection) and the other is a code Z engine or throttle body. You didn't specify in your post which one you have.

    You mentioned that you replaced the fuel pump and it is still losing pressure? Where are you taking the reading from? If you turn the key to the ON position, can you hear the pump run?

    Could you have a bad "new" pump?

    I had a problem on a 95 2.2 Sonoma that started and ran well for about 2 miles then would bog down and die. I put a pressure gage on a "T" fitting right after the fuel filter going towards the engine with a long enough hose so the gage could be duct taped to the drivers window. That allowed me to monitor the pressure as I drove. Sure enough, when the pressure started dropping, the engine bogged down and eventually died. It happened on acceleration only. It would idle ALL DAY LONG if I let it without any problems. Once I pulled over and shut off the engine, I could restart immediately and go another couple miles.

    I used to believe that in-tank pumps would either run or NOT run. I was wrong. I replaced the pump assy and connecting hoses in the tank and it was all taken care of. Ran like a champ once again.

    If this problem you are having is repeated every time you drive, and accellerate, then I would say your pump or since it is new, the interconnecting hose is bad. I can't remember what they called that piece but I replaced it to eliminate having to pull the bed back off to get to the fuel tank again. It's a little more expense but will keep you from having to guess and sliding the bed off to the side once more.

    Good luck
    vi-kan
  • jeremycjeremyc Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 s10 4.3 ss package motor bored and built not sure to wat spec. i have had it for 20,000 miles and drive it everyday, burns a quart of oil every oil change. But no noise and runs fine other than the stalling. i have changed fuel pump, fuel filter, egr valve or regulator. I have a cousin that runs a motor shop and has hooked the comp. diognostic to it, it says bad sensor which i changed and fuel rich. Cousin said could be a wire grounding out. i hear it pulling air wen it misses. dont know any suggestions be more than glad to listen.
  • jeremycjeremyc Member Posts: 2
    Hey i never did change the hoses leading to the pump or that assembly. The only thing is my truck never dies. It just has like a miss in it but wen u put the accelerater to the floor it runs fine. Its sometimes backfires threw the number 4 cylendar im thinkin it might be an injector. I guess that might cause it to run rich. idk confused. But i will try to change that assembly or hoses u were talkin bout.
  • bigbuddy6989bigbuddy6989 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the exact same problem the poster 'bakesale' was having back in october (did he ever get that figured out?) - his post - ..."the motor also 'drops out' at 15mph in 1st, 20-25mph in 2nd, 30-35mph in 3rd, which takes downshifting in an emergency (or uphill, which is a must in this city) out of the question."... by drops out im assuming no longer accelerates no matter how hard you try n push it. I've tried replacing the EGR the spark plugs n wires and even cleaning out the throttle body but I just cant get it to -GO-. :-\ I've had this s10 for years now and recently hit 125k miles i LOVE it but it just seems like its going dead on me :-| Anyone have any ideas?
  • bigbuddy6989bigbuddy6989 Member Posts: 2
  • acrumpleracrumpler Member Posts: 2
    Hello to all... I've been working on my truck for 3 days now and still can't figure out the issue. After the truck gets to operating temp. it hesitates something fierce when I give it moderate gas ie. going up hill. It gets to the point I can't hardly get out of 2nd or 3rd gear. So far I've did expensive troubleshooting with no luck. I've replaced the plugs and wires, Fuel filter, Fuel pump, Coil, and Map sensor. The reason I replaced the Map sensor was because after the service engine light came on I received a code to replace the Map sensor. If there is anyone out there that can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks and Happy new Year!
  • acrumpleracrumpler Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I have a 93 sonoma and its hesitating after getting to operating temp. Gets to the point I can't hardly drive it. Changed just about every part possible and still no luck. Do you have any Ideas?

    Thanks and happy new year.

    Tony
  • vikanvikan Member Posts: 15
    Hi T,

    I would check and make sure your air filter is not plugged for starters. I know people think of that as the last thing to check if it's checked at all. At Idle, it will run fine, but as the engine demands more air as you accelerate and give it more fuel, it will stumble as if it's being "choked".
  • dthesmandthesman Member Posts: 5
    try the pump in the fuel tank and also wrap the in-line filter with that heatshield insulation and some zip ties should be alright man and test your computer
  • ncologolfncologolf Member Posts: 2
    Hey Folks! Have enjoyed reading the content of this forum and have found some very interesting issues and resolutions. I have a '95 S10 short cab, 4.3, 4X4 PU. 151,000 miles. Looks perfect, runs great with no significant issues over trucks life except....this odd condition that appears ONLY in WET conditions.

    Encounter a puddle after a hard rain, drive thru slush or puddles after a snowfall, run thru a gutter with standing water will result; occasionally, in an erratic idle and difficulty accelerating. When at a stop engine will randomly (foot OFF pedal, clutch not engaged) rev and fall (no tach but guess 500+ RPM. Additionally will experience a problem accelerating, will simply not accelerate normally, feels like a speed limiter (not a rev limiter as engine will rev high) is in place. In certain traffic situations I've had to down shift hard to accelerate (when in normal, dry conditions I would have good acceleration in gear I was already in).

    Note that Truck has a well maintained K&N oiled air filter and routine normal maintenance done professionally. Note that condition occurs in both 2X4 and 4X4.

    A 20 or 30 minute drive on dry pavement or motor off for a while restores normal operation.

    Sounds strange....yes, but am CERTAIN of the correlation with wet conditions. Have owned vehicle since new.

    Sorry so long for my first post but currently in the middle of Colorado snow melt and experiencing problem as we speak. THANKS for any input.
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