Ok guys...we did it! We picked up a Copper Red GT w/ tan interior, w/ moonroof/bose package, mirror w/ compass and homelink, tinted windows and some BS paint protector. We really wanted all black inside but settled on tan b/c of the deal we got. Got it all for $26,800 + TTL. We love it and think we got a really good deal on it. I beat the crap out of 4 different sales guys for 5 1/2 hours and even got $2,000 for my beat to hell '96 Explorer w/ 180k on the clock. We also picked up some kind of deal Mazda was running...3.9% for 60 months. They never even told us about that until the deal was done and they were half way through credit. You'd think that'd be a selling point for them.
Heck of a deal if it is the AWD model. I Paid $28,350.00 for the the GT AWD w/ moonroof/Bose/trailer hitch/package tray/rear bumper guard/compass mirror + TT+L.
Does $24,198 +TTL sound reasonable for sport AWD with mats, splash guards & homelink? Looking at some of the posts in here it doesnt seem like a good deal.
Please advise, are CX-7's going below invoice, if so what is the average below invoice price ?
I paid 30K even, for a GT with Bose/moonroof, Tech Package, mats, mud guards, homelink mirror, in the Boston area. I had pre-ordered mine last December 2005...VIN number 246...Copper-red with Tan interior...picked it up the beginning of June 2006...and I got 12,500 in trade for my 2002 Milli S with 43K on it...I am a repeat Mazda buyer, this is my 6th, and with just turning 10K on the odo, loving every minute of it... :shades:
Over the weekend, I was reading the automotive section in the Boston Globe, their syndicated auto specialist, Royal Ford, gave his 2006 summary, after testing 100+ 2006-2007 new model rides over he past twelve months, he listed his "top 10" new model rides, and guess who the only company was that had TWO cars, in his "top 10"? MAZDA!!!
He listed the Mazdaspeed 3, and you guessed it, the CX-7!! Stating that Mazda has raised the bar extremely high for the other's to follow, with this Ride!!!
So if your on the fence in your decision, don't wait... :shades:
Just wanted to share with everyone what I think is a pretty smoking deal I was able to get. I live in San Diego and this was from an Orange County dealer.
Black/Sand FWD GT with Tech Package and auto dim compass w/homelink. Invoice (including the $150 LA assessment and destination charge) of $29,032. I get the dealer to knock off $1250 from the invoice price (yes, that's right - $1250!) so my cost was $27,782. For a 24 month, 12K miles/year lease, they gave me a money factor of .00127 and residual of 69%. Paid the drive away costs (DMV licensing/registration, 1st payment) of $731.83 and after including a $45 dealer acquisition cost and a $595 mazda financing charge, the adjusted cap cost was $28,357.30 resulting in a monthly lease payment of $349.30 plus tax ($27.07) for a total payment of $376.37.
I had several dealers in the San Diego / Orange County area battling over the best deal. After one of them offered me $1000 off invoice, I had two others match that (though only the one I bought it from actually had the car in stock). During the negotiations, I had them knock an additional $250 off the invoice price and reduce the money factor from .0015 to .00127.
Not sure if I was able to get this due to the year end "deals", but I thought that was pretty hard to beat ...
Happy hunting if you are looking - what worked for me was to use the dealer quote request feature from Edmunds (I requested quotes from about 10 dealers), and indicated I had a $260 above invoice price quote from CarsDirect.com - some of the dealers said they would match that, but others started to outbid each other. First $288 below invoice, then $540, then $1000 ... Only took about 2 days of e-mails before I had the dealer finalized and I got the car yesterday - loving it!
Well just got done leasing a new fwd sport CX-7 from a local dealer. Did a 2yr 12k lease for a lump sum payment of 6300.00 with a residual of 17100.00 after the end of the 2 years. Making my total price paid 22270.00 (the car has power seats and splash guards. BUT HERES THE KICKER....I went back to trade in my wifes car(stuck in a snow bank for a week) and the jerks changed the damn money factor. Evidently there is a claus in all leases stating that the dealers have 5 days after signing to change the deal.
My question is has anyone A)Heard of this Gone through this. I guess now we are "neogating" with the bank to lower my Tier so I can get the original MF that was promised to me
TALK ABOUT GETTING THE SHAFT!
Oh Skidadle..
Give me your email and I will tell you some interesting details, about the local dealers.
Would do it on Edmunds but dealer info is not allowed
I haven't gone through this, but if you're laying out $6,300 + a trade-in you might want to consider financing... even the finance guy I was dealing with for my mom suggested it to her when she was going to lay out more than $3,000 for her Mazda 3. Leases are okay when you don't want to lay a lot of money out, but you're really throwing that money away on a lease when you lay a lot out at the beginning.
I know it's a hassle, but you should shop your financing around and let the dealership know you're doing it. A LOT of times you can get much better interest rates from someone other than the dealer. Make them WORK for your business. They'll do more to lower your interest rate if they know you're considering financing through someone other than them.
The 6300 is including the trade in 5500 for the car 800.00 cash. And the only reason why we are leasing is that you get 3% apr on 17100.00 for 2 years, no bank or credit union can touch that.
There would be no way I would pour 6300.00 into a lease if I wasnt fully planning on buying out the lease at the end
You can reach me at jeff-smith@comcast.net. I can also give you the name of a guy I am working with out of state that appears to be a very sharp lease broker. I bet he can help.
To answer your question, I bought a new Mustang once and had a similar problem. I had the signed contract, my trade in done, and financing in place. Here is the kicker. The VIN number they orignally sold me had been sold and their system had not updated. They told me the fine print says every contract needs management approval to be final. They said they could get me the exact same car and there would be no issues. I played hard ball for a few days because I hate the typical car dealer BS. Bottom line, they gave me another hundred bucks off to get the deal done.
I just got a GT AWD Black Cherry/Sand with the Tech Package, Sirius, Remote Start, Preferred Package and All-Weather Floor Mats for $30,107 ($33,495.64 out the door) in N.J.
Well, I can only speak for the Smart Key system. In that case you would want to go with the Mazda remote start, not aftermarket. Currently the aftermarket ones don't "play nice" with the smart key system if you actually want to be able to USE the keyless entry.
The Mazda remote start is a small additional remote You press the button twice to start the car (and I've done it from as far as 800 feet away). The car stays locked. When you approach the car, the smart-key system works as intended. You don't have to unlock the car with any remote... just approach, press the request button on the door, and it unlocks. You get in, turn the car ignition to "on" and tap the brake. The car stays running the whole time.
With an aftermarket system, the smart-key features of unlocking the car no longer worked right - so if you remote started the car and then approached, the only way to unlock it was with the key fobs from the remote start (by pressing the "unlock" button on the remote). Also, during install, they had to hide an auxiliary key from the smart-key inside the car. With the Mazda remote start neither is the case. Smart-key continues to funtion properly and no need to hide a key (Mazda remote start uses a DNA card that plugs into the engine immobilizer system).
Last but not least, the smart-keys CAN be programmed to remote-start the car. I had it set up this way for a short time when I had the aftermarket system. The big downside to that is range. The furthest away I could be from the car and successfully start it was about 12-15 feet. No good and defeats the purpose of remote start.
My dealership was great about all this and swapped out the aftermarket remote-start system with the Mazda one and I've been VERY happy with it ever since. Like I said, I can't speak of the non smart-key CX-7 in which an aftermarket remote start system may be fine (but they'll still have to hide a key) -- but with the smart-key keyless entry/ignition, you'll WANT the Mazda Remote Start for everything to work seamlessly.
i was thinking of getting a mazda remote starter but for a NON-smartkey pkg... will the same start up procedure apply? would you have to manually unlock the car then put the key in?
If you get the Mazda Remote Start it should offer the MOST compatibility with your system... so you should only have to touch the Remote-Start key fob for starting the car... you regular key/keyfob should unlock the car as usual.
It's when you get into the aftermarket remote-start systems that this can potentially change.
I also have the factory remote start. it would be nice if the starter was integrated into the advanced key but I guess you can't have everything. I have only used it once and it worked as advertised so no complaints.
Does anyone know if there is a way to unlock the doors using the advanced key without the need to push the black button on the handle? Its obviously not a big deal but it seems odd that you need to press a button to open the doors. Just pulling on the handle should be enough.
Does anyone know if there is a way to unlock the doors using the advanced key without the need to push the black button on the handle? Its obviously not a big deal but it seems odd that you need to press a button to open the doors. Just pulling on the handle should be enough.
Don't think so... the request button is really the way it's designed to work. Of course, you could unlock it with the remote keyfob before you get to the car -- but yeah yeah, that defeats the whole point.
I've gotten real used to the request button. I LOVE not having to dig keys out of my pocket. Only problem now is I need keyless entry for my house! LOL
HUH? :confuse: Does this mean one doesn't actually need a second remote key for this function to work!!!
As per your remark, you said "The big downside to that is range. The furthest away I could be from the car and successfully start it was about 12-15 feet. No good and defeats the purpose of remote start."
Nay, not so says I, whose garage is within that distance from my house. On a cold winters morn, it would suit me to a "T". :shades:
Indeed, if the installer knows what he/she is doing they CAN program your smart key remote to trigger the remote-start... at least they set it up for me that way (with an after market remote-start system).
You may think 12-15 feet is good but that's the BEST it could do. Honestly, when you are parked at someone elses house where the car is further away or at work or even a restaurant, you'll never be able to remote-start the car. I quickly found this out. My driveway is close to my house so 12-15 feet was fine at home... but absolutely no good anywhere else. And it's NICE to be able to start my car anywhere I want, like at work, where my car is parked at least 700-800 feet away. You know how nice it is to start your car when you come out of a store? Car's warmed up by the time you cross the parking lot. That's the whole point
Have been shopping around Orange County for deals, but have not found anything quite like this one. I would love to know which dealership gave you this deal. You really worked these guys!!....thanks
Not to belabor the issue, but even that short distance when the vehicle is overnight in upstate NY., and if you are an older geezer such as I, well then my cup is already half full. Go to the window, click the remote key, have another cuppa and feel blessed. :shades:
Now if I can only get back home from New Zealand where the temp in the SUMMER is colder than in NY
I paid invoice for my GT Tech, but I'm in NY and it was the end of December. Actually since they gave 500 dollars more for my trade than the wholesalers were willing to pay, I feel I got it for 500 below invoice. I did have to fight between two dealers to get my price and the dealer I bought from actually matched a price on a model with 500 dollars more in options because I made a mistake in the actual MSRP of the one at the competing dealer. The competing dealer actually didn't want to discount as much on models with the Tech Package. It also helped that I used to sell cars twenty years ago and made them well aware of that... they knew I was aware of all of the tricks of the trade.
I have been quoted the following on two CX7's and am wondering if they are reasonable deals
1) New 2007 Mazda CX-7 Touring AWD (in stock #10584) Galaxy Gray/Black with Technology Package (includes power sliding glass moonroof with interior sunshade, 6-disc in-dash CD changer, 9-speaker Bose CENTERPOINT surround sound system with AudioPilot, DVD navigational system with voice command and touch screen, rearview camera, Mazda Advanced Keyless Entry and Start system and anti-theft peripheral system) - MSRP $31,765
Your Special Internet Price is $29,826.00* plus you can take advantage of the current special finance offers from Mazda American Credit. Rates are as low as 3.9% for 60 months OR 5.9% for 72 months for highly qualified buyers.
2) New 2007 Mazda CX-7 Grand Touring AWD (in stock #10557) Galaxy Gray/Black with Technology Package (includes power sliding glass moonroof with interior sunshade, 6-disc in-dash CD changer, 9-speaker Bose CENTERPOINT surround sound system with AudioPilot, DVD navigational system with voice command and touch screen, rearview camera, Mazda Advanced Keyless Entry and Start system and anti-theft peripheral system) - MSRP $32,565
Your Special Internet Price is $30,582.00* and the finance specials still apply.
That's about $200 over invoice. Tell them you are willing to pay $200 less then they qouted you. Also ask them to throw in Wheel locks, the rear bumper guard, and rubber mats for that price(thats about $160 worth of pretty necessary accessories.) Unless you want some other stuff as well. Dealers will often throw in inexpensive accessories to make a deal. Their cost is much less than $160. Worth a shot.
Naaah... 29500 is a bit much to pay for a car that's labeled as "used". You can get a brand new one for that price, if not less. Try doing a little online searching with your local dealers, chances are you can make out much better than this. :shades:
Bought a new Mazda CX-7 last night. GT, AWD,Tech, Remote Start, Auto dim mirror/homelink, Roof rack, sunroof deflector, wheel locks, Sirius, Cargo net, all weather mats. 3000 miles (demo)
MSRP $33,820, invoice 31243. Paid $30,500 + taxes in Colorado.
On the way home from the dealership, I got in a car accident in the ice/snow. Car had to be towed to a lot
Hope you're OK, Mogulman!! Cars are replaceable...
I feel your pain, to a lesser extent. My CX-7's been in the shop since Feb. 19th as the result of an accident. But mine didn't happen the same day I got the car! That's just awful!
Hopefully you'll get it back very soon. I'm going nuts waiting for the repairs to be finished. Should be any day now.
I am from NJ and I am looking to lease the cx-7 GT awd with no other options. Can anyone tell me what a good deal would be. Last month I was quoted $379 per month for 39 months with $0 due at signing other then my first month payment. I was told the residual factor is 53% and a money factor of .0012. MSRP $28,595 and got the cap cost price to around 26,800. Looks like this month Mazda has some incentives, does anyone now what the money factor is for March. Bottom line is I am just wondering what a good lease price should look like.
You can't determine a good lease figure w/o determining the exact buyout price. I paid cash, but the price was $28,350 plus TT+L for an AWD GT w/compass mirror, rear bumper guard, trailer hitch, and the rear rubber package tray. MSRP was $30,600. Also paid $1300 ($1000 off) for the 3 year extended warranty. So the cap cost price before negotiating the lease should be atleast $3000 off MSRP or $25595.00 on your car. You need to shave a $1000 off the price or have them add $1000 worth of accessories to get the proper lease amount. In my deal, MAzda wouldn't come down another $1000 on the CX-7 itself, but did knock $1000 off the price of the extended warranty, (which I wanted anyway), so, in the end, received my so-called $3000+ difference off the total deal.
Basically, the dealer was trying to sell the CX-7 at MSRP, (this was last October) until informed that another local MAzda dealer was discounting $2000.They agreed to match $2000 off within seconds, but it took a week of negotiating to get the other $1000 off the extended warranty, plus the accessories (bumper guard,rear cargo tray worth about $120.00.)
Does anyone have any idea what the $1,000 Mazda Competitive Conquest rebate is all about? How does one qualify? I just sold my Toyota and am looking to lease a new CX-7. All the local ads I have seen include this rebate and I want to make sure that I get it. The lease deal is INCREDIBLE this month on the CX-7.
My husband and I just purchased our CX-7 in mid March and so far I love it. When we went into our dealership to look and test drive, I wouldn't even talk about the MSRP price to the salesman (yes, I did all the negotiations on the vehicle ). After having did my homework here on Edmunds, I pretty much knew what I wanted and the price I wanted to pay. So here it is what we bought:
2007 Mazda CX-7 Touring 4dr SUV in Liquid Platinum Metallic Options included were: Moonroof/Bose Audio/6 CD Changer Fog Lights Preferred Equipment Package
While I negotiated with the salesman (or the sales manager I think it was), I also stated that I wanted to see a copy of the invoice of the particular vehicle we were looking at in their lot. After he brought out a copy (which listed all the options for invoice price) I continued on with my negotiations. I stated that I knew dealers are able to add on options, and continued with a question, asking if they are able to take options off. After he asked me what option I didn't want I told him we don't need the Preferred Package option. After a bit of chit chat, he was willing to "eat" the cost of the Preferred Package, which was $136 at invoice price. Ok, so I'm somewhat content thus far w/ negotiations; on to talk about my trade-in.
Let me also add in that we (me and husband) included in our negotiations what we were willing to pay a month MAX (meaning this is max money we're willing to pay a month so don't ask us to pay more) and how many months we were willing to pay. All this above was done without telling them we had a trade-in, by the way. Ok, now to talk about the trade-in...
After talking a while about what I would get for my trade-in, I wasn't satisfied I was getting a fair price. We thank them for their time and get ready to leave when the sales manager pulls something outta his sleeve. He's willing to also "eat" the $510 dealer holdback they would get from selling the car, and takes that off the total price of the CX-7. Ok, that's cool. Well, after further negotiations and alot of "hurry up and wait", we ended up not buying that day. That's alright though, I wasn't expecting to walk out of the dealership with a new car and it allowed me to go home and do some further homework.
Fastforward to the next evening. We get a phone call from the Director of the dealership stating that he thinks they can give us more for my trade-in and we should come in and talk. We set up a time for the next day.
Next day arrives and we go entertain them for a while to see what kind of extra money they're giving me for my Chrysler 300M. Turns out they're giving me an extra $1200. That's great! So we go over our paperwork and agreed upon prices and head over to the Finance office. This part of the buying process was a bit of a blur to me, but thank goodness my husband is able to do quick math in his brain without needing a calculator or a good ol' fashioned pencil and paper! Somewhere the numbers were not adding up, so we stop the paperwork and call over the sales manager. He comes over and I have him show me where the extra $1200 went that I got for my trade-in because it wasn't adding up. After trying to show us where the money went, he was coming up $400 short somewhere. Alright, so I ask him what's he going to do, because I'm not signing any more paperwork till I find out where that $400 is. I guess it kinda flustered him, and we got an extra $400 taken off of the final price of our CX-7.
Moral of that long story: don't let your guard down once you enter the Finance office. Your buying process isn't over yet! After all was said and done, we ended up buying for about $1500, give or take, UNDER invoice price. Final buying price before trade-in and down payment was $24,600 something, with regular invoice price with the options we got being $26,167. I was pretty darn proud of myself . This was my 3rd car buying experience and my most enjoyable one.... mostly because I actually knew what was going on, thanks to this site .
Currently, on any new CX-7 there is a $1000 dealer incentive AND 1.9% APR for 36 months. You can opt for an additional $1000 customer cash in lieu of financing.
Currently, on any new CX-7 there is a $1000 dealer incentive AND 1.9% APR for 36 months. You can opt for an additional $1000 customer cash in lieu of financing.
We don't have any dealer cash incentive here in the northeast, where are you?
Looking a CX-7 GT AWD, with sunroof/Bose 9 speakers, remote start, all weather mats, and auto dim mirror with compass and homelink, MSRP of $30,840. My quoted price is $29,470 which is very close to TMV according to Edmunds. I'm getting a fair price for my trade, they are giving slightly above KBB which I think is good, because most of the time they want to give you a price close to auction value.
The dealer showed me the invoice, the destination charge is included, but he is also adding in an advertising charge which is $295. Not sure why this is even on the invoice, and would like to know if you think I have a chance of having him take that amount off. I live in eastern PA, and would appreciate your rapid responses and thoughts, as we all know the end of the month in on Monday 4/30.
Bought same GT-AWD vehicle w/o the all weather mats and remote start, but did include the rear rubber package tray and rear bumper guard plus the compass mirror for $28,350 plus TT+L. Paid $1350 for the 3 year extended service plan.No advertising charge was ever mentioned or introduced into the deal. Minneapolis,MN.Purchased 10.25.2006. Currently 9500 miles--no problems besides the intial gas cap recall. 16~19 mpg in town ---- 18~21 mpg on recent road trip at 75 mph+ w/ 4 passengers and full luggage.Premium fuel.
Comments
GT with moonroof/Bose package. Quoted price of $27,274, $400 over invoice. Northern VA dealer. Comments, please!!
Thanks,
Maggie
Does $24,198 +TTL sound reasonable for sport AWD with mats, splash guards & homelink? Looking at some of the posts in here it doesnt seem like a good deal.
Please advise, are CX-7's going below invoice, if so what is the average below invoice price ?
thanks.
He listed the Mazdaspeed 3, and you guessed it, the CX-7!! Stating that Mazda has raised the bar extremely high for the other's to follow, with this Ride!!!
So if your on the fence in your decision, don't wait... :shades:
Black/Sand FWD GT with Tech Package and auto dim compass w/homelink. Invoice (including the $150 LA assessment and destination charge) of $29,032. I get the dealer to knock off $1250 from the invoice price (yes, that's right - $1250!) so my cost was $27,782. For a 24 month, 12K miles/year lease, they gave me a money factor of .00127 and residual of 69%. Paid the drive away costs (DMV licensing/registration, 1st payment) of $731.83 and after including a $45 dealer acquisition cost and a $595 mazda financing charge, the adjusted cap cost was $28,357.30 resulting in a monthly lease payment of $349.30 plus tax ($27.07) for a total payment of $376.37.
I had several dealers in the San Diego / Orange County area battling over the best deal. After one of them offered me $1000 off invoice, I had two others match that (though only the one I bought it from actually had the car in stock). During the negotiations, I had them knock an additional $250 off the invoice price and reduce the money factor from .0015 to .00127.
Not sure if I was able to get this due to the year end "deals", but I thought that was pretty hard to beat ...
Happy hunting if you are looking - what worked for me was to use the dealer quote request feature from Edmunds (I requested quotes from about 10 dealers), and indicated I had a $260 above invoice price quote from CarsDirect.com - some of the dealers said they would match that, but others started to outbid each other. First $288 below invoice, then $540, then $1000 ... Only took about 2 days of e-mails before I had the dealer finalized and I got the car yesterday - loving it!
thanks
My question is has anyone A)Heard of this
TALK ABOUT GETTING THE SHAFT!
Oh Skidadle..
Give me your email and I will tell you some interesting details, about the local dealers.
Would do it on Edmunds but dealer info is not allowed
I know it's a hassle, but you should shop your financing around and let the dealership know you're doing it. A LOT of times you can get much better interest rates from someone other than the dealer. Make them WORK for your business. They'll do more to lower your interest rate if they know you're considering financing through someone other than them.
The 6300 is including the trade in 5500 for the car 800.00 cash. And the only reason why we are leasing is that you get 3% apr on 17100.00 for 2 years, no bank or credit union can touch that.
There would be no way I would pour 6300.00 into a lease if I wasnt fully planning on buying out the lease at the end
To answer your question, I bought a new Mustang once and had a similar problem. I had the signed contract, my trade in done, and financing in place. Here is the kicker. The VIN number they orignally sold me had been sold and their system had not updated. They told me the fine print says every contract needs management approval to be final. They said they could get me the exact same car and there would be no issues. I played hard ball for a few days because I hate the typical car dealer BS. Bottom line, they gave me another hundred bucks off to get the deal done.
$30,107 unit price
$595 destination
$2,149 tax
$342 4 year registration/emissions
$298 doc fee
$7.50 tire tax
$33,498 total.
some remote starters actually shut off before you can get in the car... does this one do that or can you just put it in drive, then go?
thanks and congrats on your new ride...
The Mazda remote start is a small additional remote
You press the button twice to start the car (and I've done it from as far as 800 feet away). The car stays locked. When you approach the car, the smart-key system works as intended. You don't have to unlock the car with any remote... just approach, press the request button on the door, and it unlocks. You get in, turn the car ignition to "on" and tap the brake. The car stays running the whole time.
With an aftermarket system, the smart-key features of unlocking the car no longer worked right - so if you remote started the car and then approached, the only way to unlock it was with the key fobs from the remote start (by pressing the "unlock" button on the remote). Also, during install, they had to hide an auxiliary key from the smart-key inside the car. With the Mazda remote start neither is the case. Smart-key continues to funtion properly and no need to hide a key (Mazda remote start uses a DNA card that plugs into the engine immobilizer system).
Last but not least, the smart-keys CAN be programmed to remote-start the car. I had it set up this way for a short time when I had the aftermarket system. The big downside to that is range. The furthest away I could be from the car and successfully start it was about 12-15 feet. No good and defeats the purpose of remote start.
My dealership was great about all this and swapped out the aftermarket remote-start system with the Mazda one and I've been VERY happy with it ever since. Like I said, I can't speak of the non smart-key CX-7 in which an aftermarket remote start system may be fine (but they'll still have to hide a key) -- but with the smart-key keyless entry/ignition, you'll WANT the Mazda Remote Start for everything to work seamlessly.
i was thinking of getting a mazda remote starter but for a NON-smartkey pkg... will the same start up procedure apply? would you have to manually unlock the car then put the key in?
thanks again...
It's when you get into the aftermarket remote-start systems that this can potentially change.
Does anyone know if there is a way to unlock the doors using the advanced key without the need to push the black button on the handle? Its obviously not a big deal but it seems odd that you need to press a button to open the doors. Just pulling on the handle should be enough.
Thanks.
Don't think so... the request button is really the way it's designed to work. Of course, you could unlock it with the remote keyfob before you get to the car
I've gotten real used to the request button. I LOVE not having to dig keys out of my pocket. Only problem now is I need keyless entry for my house! LOL
Does this mean one doesn't actually need a second remote key for this function to work!!!
As per your remark, you said "The big downside to that is range. The furthest away I could be from the car and successfully start it was about 12-15 feet. No good and defeats the purpose of remote start."
Nay, not so says I, whose garage is within that distance from my house. On a cold winters morn, it would suit me to a "T". :shades:
Or do I misunderstand?
NMK
You may think 12-15 feet is good but that's the BEST it could do. Honestly, when you are parked at someone elses house where the car is further away or at work or even a restaurant, you'll never be able to remote-start the car. I quickly found this out. My driveway is close to my house so 12-15 feet was fine at home... but absolutely no good anywhere else. And it's NICE to be able to start my car anywhere I want, like at work, where my car is parked at least 700-800 feet away. You know how nice it is to start your car when you come out of a store? Car's warmed up by the time you cross the parking lot. That's the whole point
Now if I can only get back home from New Zealand where the temp in the SUMMER is colder than in NY
1) New 2007 Mazda CX-7 Touring AWD (in stock #10584) Galaxy Gray/Black with Technology Package (includes power sliding glass moonroof with interior sunshade, 6-disc in-dash CD changer, 9-speaker Bose CENTERPOINT surround sound system with AudioPilot, DVD navigational system with voice command and touch screen, rearview camera, Mazda Advanced Keyless Entry and Start system and anti-theft peripheral system) - MSRP $31,765
Your Special Internet Price is $29,826.00* plus you can take advantage of the current special finance offers from Mazda American Credit. Rates are as low as 3.9% for 60 months OR 5.9% for 72 months for highly qualified buyers.
2) New 2007 Mazda CX-7 Grand Touring AWD (in stock #10557) Galaxy Gray/Black with Technology Package (includes power sliding glass moonroof with interior sunshade, 6-disc in-dash CD changer, 9-speaker Bose CENTERPOINT surround sound system with AudioPilot, DVD navigational system with voice command and touch screen, rearview camera, Mazda Advanced Keyless Entry and Start system and anti-theft peripheral system) - MSRP $32,565
Your Special Internet Price is $30,582.00* and the finance specials still apply.
That's a heck of a deal!
I say jump on it and welcome to the forum!
29500 is a bit much to pay for a car that's labeled as "used".
You can get a brand new one for that price, if not less. Try doing a little online searching with your local dealers, chances are you can make out much better than this.
:shades:
MSRP $33,820, invoice 31243. Paid $30,500 + taxes in Colorado.
On the way home from the dealership, I got in a car accident in the ice/snow. Car had to be towed to a lot
I didn't even get a chance to really drive it.
I feel your pain, to a lesser extent. My CX-7's been in the shop since Feb. 19th as the result of an accident. But mine didn't happen the same day I got the car! That's just awful!
Hopefully you'll get it back very soon. I'm going nuts waiting for the repairs to be finished. Should be any day now.
Looks like this month Mazda has some incentives, does anyone now what the money factor is for March.
Bottom line is I am just wondering what a good lease price should look like.
Thanking everyone for there input in advance.
Basically, the dealer was trying to sell the CX-7 at MSRP, (this was last October) until informed that another local MAzda dealer was discounting $2000.They agreed to match $2000 off within seconds, but it took a week of negotiating to get the other $1000 off the extended warranty, plus the accessories (bumper guard,rear cargo tray worth about $120.00.)
2007 Mazda CX-7 Touring 4dr SUV in Liquid Platinum Metallic
Options included were: Moonroof/Bose Audio/6 CD Changer
Fog Lights
Preferred Equipment Package
While I negotiated with the salesman (or the sales manager I think it was), I also stated that I wanted to see a copy of the invoice of the particular vehicle we were looking at in their lot. After he brought out a copy (which listed all the options for invoice price) I continued on with my negotiations. I stated that I knew dealers are able to add on options, and continued with a question, asking if they are able to take options off. After he asked me what option I didn't want I told him we don't need the Preferred Package option. After a bit of chit chat, he was willing to "eat" the cost of the Preferred Package, which was $136 at invoice price. Ok, so I'm somewhat content thus far w/ negotiations; on to talk about my trade-in.
Let me also add in that we (me and husband) included in our negotiations what we were willing to pay a month MAX (meaning this is max money we're willing to pay a month so don't ask us to pay more) and how many months we were willing to pay. All this above was done without telling them we had a trade-in, by the way. Ok, now to talk about the trade-in...
After talking a while about what I would get for my trade-in, I wasn't satisfied I was getting a fair price. We thank them for their time and get ready to leave when the sales manager pulls something outta his sleeve. He's willing to also "eat" the $510 dealer holdback they would get from selling the car, and takes that off the total price of the CX-7. Ok, that's cool. Well, after further negotiations and alot of "hurry up and wait", we ended up not buying that day. That's alright though, I wasn't expecting to walk out of the dealership with a new car and it allowed me to go home and do some further homework.
Fastforward to the next evening. We get a phone call from the Director of the dealership stating that he thinks they can give us more for my trade-in and we should come in and talk. We set up a time for the next day.
Next day arrives and we go entertain them for a while to see what kind of extra money they're giving me for my Chrysler 300M. Turns out they're giving me an extra $1200. That's great! So we go over our paperwork and agreed upon prices and head over to the Finance office. This part of the buying process was a bit of a blur to me, but thank goodness my husband is able to do quick math in his brain without needing a calculator or a good ol' fashioned pencil and paper! Somewhere the numbers were not adding up, so we stop the paperwork and call over the sales manager. He comes over and I have him show me where the extra $1200 went that I got for my trade-in because it wasn't adding up. After trying to show us where the money went, he was coming up $400 short somewhere. Alright, so I ask him what's he going to do, because I'm not signing any more paperwork till I find out where that $400 is. I guess it kinda flustered him, and we got an extra $400 taken off of the final price of our CX-7.
Moral of that long story: don't let your guard down once you enter the Finance office. Your buying process isn't over yet! After all was said and done, we ended up buying for about $1500, give or take, UNDER invoice price. Final buying price before trade-in and down payment was $24,600 something, with regular invoice price with the options we got being $26,167. I was pretty darn proud of myself
We don't have any dealer cash incentive here in the northeast, where are you?
The dealer showed me the invoice, the destination charge is included, but he is also adding in an advertising charge which is $295. Not sure why this is even on the invoice, and would like to know if you think I have a chance of having him take that amount off. I live in eastern PA, and would appreciate your rapid responses and thoughts, as we all know the end of the month in on Monday 4/30.
Thanks.