I got this pickup recently not running for just $200 and was able to get it going pretty well after fixing the ignition and doing a number of other needed repairs. The only major concern I still have with it is this metallic clunking noise during downshift from 2nd to 1st. It often is good only if I've just come off the freeway, but other than that every time i come to a stop I can hear it. I think it's a problem with the torque converter still being in lockup during this gear change. If I pull the valve body, what do I do or look for?
i was wondering if someone could help me out, i have a 97 chevy s10 when i drive to work in the morning my tranny shifts funny it seems to go into gear fine but sometimes i"ll run 70 at 2500 rpm and then usually it runs 3000 rpm in the afternoon but sometimes it don"T matter if its morning or night. Also when i stand outside my truck i can hear what sounds like a vacuum leak and sounds like its coming right from above the gas tank
put a used tranny in my 99 s-10 4x4 4.3L auto flushed system changed filter fluid everything goes threw all drive gears good but like shimmies to get into reverse then wont catch really tired of this truck wont can i check or do i have to replace again :mad:
Vehicle has been sitting for about two months. I backed out of garage and seemed fine. Drove about 10 miles and went to accelerate and it downshifted and heard some kind of "clunk" type noise. I slowed down and all seemed to be fine. Stopped to clean vehicle and found that it would not go into reverse. It also now seems to "wind out" from 1st to 2nd gear. Still no reverse. Fluid smells good, it's red and full when hot. The only other other info that may help, is it did have a dead battery after sitting for a while. It was jump started and let it run for awhile to charge battery. Truck sat for another 2-3 weeks, when I went to pick it up, it started up fine. That's when I backed out of the garage and had these other issues. PLEASE HELP !!!!!! Oh yea, I did put it in 4x4 and tried to back up and that didn't work either. HELP!!!!!!
I have a 2000 sonoma that seems to be leaking fuel. At least it smells alot like it. Can't find any injectors leaking. I'm at a loss as to what it is. Sometime a small amount of smoke will appear when at a light and then it's gone. Can anyone out there suggest anything? :confuse:
The clutch in my truck is leaking hydraulic fluid somewhere in it. I've taken it to a mechanic, who believes the slave cylinder is leaking. The price of fixing this, assuming it is the problem, depends on where the slave cylinder is located. I've been looking, but cannot find any information. I need to know if the slave cylinder is inside the transmission on this truck, or outside. If it is outside, it will be cheaper, and I want to make sure he doesn't charge me the inside price even if it is outside the transmission. It has a 2.8L V6 engine. Any help would be grateful, thanks.
when shifting to 4x4 the light on the left of the shifter comes on the transfercase light stays off, 4x4 does not wok (worked fine last winter) could there be a fuse problem?? thanks first time poster (rookie car owner)
I have a 97 4.3 with a 5 speed trans, The trans grindes going in to 2Nd gear. I found a trans for a 97 s-10 but its out of a 4cly. Will it work on the 4.3???
[seckard] symptoms are a broken sun shell, common problem on the 4L60E. Needs to be removed, dissembled and repaired. If high mileage, should be overhauled.
ok, so here it is. I have a 2001 sonoma with 110,000 miles. Auto trans., and the 2.2 engine. About 1,000 miles ago I got the check engine code P1870. (Transmission Component Slipping). So, I had all the fluids and filters changed. I mean all. Drained the pan and replaced the filter and had the system pumped out. When I did this, I did not have any metal shaving at all on the magnets inside the pan, but some of the plactic retaining clips on the wiring harness where very brittle and some even broken. But all connections seemed to be fine. I reset the codes and drove the truck for about 600 miles and the check engine code came back on. The Chevy garage told me it could be as simple as a external sensor, or much worse. I took the truck to a transmission shop, and the guy there told me that it would be about a 300.00 job, and then he said oh yes... that is unless he fines any of the plastic inside the pan housing broken. He said if that is the case I need a total break down and rebuild, and new wiring harness.. he said this would be between 1200.00 to 1400.00. Someone anyone... Is this the case? The truck seems to run and shift just fine on short trips, but anything over 30 to 40 miles and when shifting there is a short lag between first and second and if climbing a hill sometimes will then kick out of passing gear.
What I found out on the web is. The most likely cause is worn pump bushings and worn valve body.
Sometimes just replacing or repair of the valve body will work, a sure thing is pump bushings also. The valve body can be done installed, trans needs to be removed for pump bushing. At 110,000 most shops would want to do a complete overhaul if removed for repair.
The $300 sounds like valve body repair, that may work, if not pump bushing next.
If it was mine I would want both done, The pump is the first part to be removed so no need to go further.
Not too scare you but, if it gets to the point where it will not go into OD you will burn up the transmission, converter and all.
hello, I have a problem with my s-10's transmission. It's slips alot when i am at about 3,000RPM. i would like to know what make the transmission is and i dont know where the torque converter clutch solenoid will do any good. If its not the TCC then what could it be? Thanks for your help
I had a similar problem with my 97. After doing all the things you described and it still not shifting like it should I replaced the wiring harness to the ignition switch and that fixed it. The box in the harness had worn connectors. Good Luck.
I have a problem with my 2002 s10 crew cab, its the v6 4.3l engine, everything seems to run well when the engine is cold but after it gets hot it starts slipping or not going into the right gear. at points it will keep me from accelerating but the if i turn the engine off for a minute or two it will work for awhile. anyone know what the problem is?
Sons truck broke transfercase to tranny housing, lost all fluid. Replaced housing and found trans slipping at higher speeds. Told him to replace trans with rebuilt. Bought used one and had his friends install...(Ishould have done it) Now it does NOTHING! Just revs in all gears, no grinding or odd noises. He said when the finished it moved out of garage, they stopped and check levels of fluid, added more. Than it did nothing. I checked level and it was 1/2 up the stick..I mean like 4 qts heavy!, I pulled pan, filter is good, lots of metal on magnet. Filled to proper level. Still nothing. I hate to believe he got a bad trans but would like to know if they maybe missed something? For it to wrok for a moment and not to work after over filling seems odd.
Don't know where they got the used one, all junk yards will guarantee it will work or they will replace it. If it won't go in manual 1-2-3-R, it's not electrical.
'95 S-10 ,4.3, 4x4. automatic All I have is 2nd and reverse. Speedometer quit at the same time. This is the nightmare year that was in between ob1 and ob2 that you can't pull codes from. What were the "brains" at GM thinking? New filter and fluid. No matter where the shifter is in forward it starts in 2nd when it finally does try to upshift it acts like it's in neutral and drops back to 2nd when I step on the gas. Also anti-lock started to act up about a week before tranny problem. Any suggestions ? Stuck without a ride until I fix it. Low on $$$$ Know my way around a wrench.Not a newbie.
Im working on a 98 s10 2wd and put a fresh rebuit tranny in. The problem im having is it seems to slip every gear, put it on a comp scanner showed no codes but sitting idling in park shows going 130mph and output rpm 7616. Not sure where to go next to fix the problem. Any advice would be helpful.thanks
While I'm here,forgot to ask last time. Does anybody make a decent S-10 shop manual? Clymer's and Chilton are a joke and the 4x4 section is disgusting at best. My Bentley books (vw) are big bucks but at least they cover things.
THAT'S what I was looking for, thanks ! Just ordered what I needed. Hope shipping doesn't take too long. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. I noticed that you have helped a lot of people here.
I'm new to this forum, so far it's the best one I've found. It seems most of the others are filled with kids wanting to know how to bag their ride, install a "fart can" , or sub-woofer.
Any thoughts about my tranny problem in my first post? I've had other cars that went in to "limp home" mode act like this. With no way to pull codes from a '95, I'm kind of shooting in the dark here
Make sure the year matches up. They used the same trans in a bunch of different years, but not the same computers in the truck. The transmission must match the computer. And NO the computer from earlier years '94 or '95 won't work in newer ones. '95 was an oddball it only fits 1 year.
May not be your problem, but something to look at.
That's what I was afraid of. Found another '95 transmission, transfer case, and t converter for $200. Ugh I hate the thought of doing this job , No help around.
Got one. Only problem is I've got so much stuff in the way it takes me an hour to make room to work on anything. Have a workshop that I built to work on 1 car at a time that has more stuff in it than most dealerships, everything but a lift.
The one I got was the Driveability, emissions, and electrical manual, Used, but in better shape than described, mostly on the cover, just a little dirty. 1 of a 2 part set. The others are (2) the mechanical, and there are some detailed supplements for sub-systems like air bags, A/C, anti-lock, auto-transmission. The one I have details all the problems that have you banging your head against the wall, and in depth coverage. Not for the guy with a screwdriver and a $5.00 socket set with the car up on cement blocks behind the house. Been there, done that. (young and dumb) I miss my '65 Satellite street racer, and my hair ! Getting the mechanical book when the price is right.
I once bought a 1985 Cavalier factory manual, they give you instruction on how to rebuild everything on the car, stuff you would never do. Like Hydraulic rack, axle shafts.
I have a '99 Sonoma. Trans started acting up on highway. It would rev up at 55-60 mph and if I put my foot down just alittle, it would shift back into OD. If I run her in 3rd, not a problem. It got so bad that I thought I wouldn't get her home one night and didn't use her for over a year. ( I only use this truck for light hauling and shifting work equiptment as needed.) After giving her a loooong vacation, the trans was absolutely perfect for at least 2500 miles. Then suddenly, back to old habits.
Pulls and shifts good, just this little glitch.
I suspect a solenoid or modulator problem, but I dont know enough about these new fangled computer trannys to know where to start.
iam looking for help my 2000 gmc sonoma 2.2liter seems too shift ok in lower gears but wont shift into overdrive or passing gear or whatever damn gear it is it automatic and my rpms at 3000 at 55mph i have checked vac lines changed fluid trans filter any body have a clue of what the hells going on
I am having trouble with my transmission not wanting to shift out of 2nd and just revs. This is my third transmission and this one didn't even last a month. Is that sad or what. The business that replaced it says they are not going to gives us another one they are saying that their is something wrong with the truck and not the transmission. I don't know what to do now we are out of money and ready to just hand over the truck! If anyone has any advice please let me know!
Dear Applebee's, I had the same problem with my Dad's 97. I finally traced it back to a faulty ignition switch. I replaced it and attached wiring harness and problem gone. The part was around $100. @ advanced auto parts. I had to remove some plastic around the steering column to get to it. I think it took me a couple of hours from start to finish. Before I discovered the root of the problem I replaced some solenoids and wiring harness in the trany that was a waste of time and money. Good luck.
It should shift in manual 1 manual 2 and 3, if not transmission problem. If it does, electrical, pin E at transmission harness should have power with key on run.
OK, I realize that the ultimate answer to my issues is "replace/rebuild your transmission," but here goes: I have an '82 S10, V6, 3-speed automatic. The transmission is leaking a fair amount of fluid, put some stop leak in, not sure if it helped. I can deal with the leaking, cuz it's not gushing out, and I just throw some fluid in once a week or so. I have issues with it slipping, but as long as I keep the fluid topped off, it doesn't slip as often. Lately, though, I have a new issue: there is an intermittent clunking sound, only when it's in drive or reverse (doesn't happen in park or neutral), gets louder and more regular when I'm pulling a load, accelerating, going up a hill, etc. It only starts this clunking after the truck has warmed up, about 10 minutes after I start my trip to work or home. Before it gets warm, no noise at all. The noise gets steadily more regular and louder the longer I drive; fortunately I don't have a long commute. One morning, I didn't make it--I was at a stop light, and when I got the green, the truck simply wouldn't go. Lots of smoke, and no power. Got it towed, and after it cooled off I had no issues with it, until I drove it again long enough to warm up. Any ideas on what I might be looking at, short of replacing/rebuilding the transmission?
i'm having a leak problem from the bell housing of my tranny. its leakn really bad. i stopped driven the truck. it has a 4 banger 2.2L automatic trans. what could the leak be from. convertor, pump behind convertor or a seal. but if i put 2 Qts. in and drive 3 miles , it all leaks out with in that time.whats most commen with this sittuation.
i'm having a leak problem from the bell housing of my tranny. its leakn really bad. i stopped driven the truck. it has a 4 banger 2.2L automatic trans. what could the leak be from. convertor, pump behind convertor or a seal. but if i put 2 Qts. in and drive 3 miles , it all leaks out with in that time.whats most commen with this sittuation.
My S10 acts like it is trying to take off in 2nd or third. Once you get it moving it goes good. But to take off you just have to give it time. It won't win a race across a busy highway. I serviced the trans and still feels the same. It also doesn't kick down when you punch after getting on the highway like it should. Does this truck supposed to have a Detent cable on itor is it controld by the module on the side of the transmission? If it is supposed to have a detent cable where is it? It has the 2.2 in it. Thanks and any response would be great.
I am having the identical problem! I discovered that my Trans fuse was blown which is certainly the cause of the problem. Take a look at your fuse. Now my issue is that I put a new fuse in and it immediately blows. The underlying problem? You may get lucky and just have to replace the fuse and it won't blow out. If not we are in the same boat. I know the ground is good and I have disconnected all the cable to the trans and the 02 sensors which was suggested and still no luck. Maybe we can kill two birds with one stone here. Additionaly... The funny thing is the problem started right after I did my front brakes. Just a coincidence... I dunno but FML right now. My understanding is that the ABS is on the same circuit? Maybe I nicked it when changing the pads. Hopefully that solves your problem and if anyone has any suggestions for me. You rock! Thanks in advance.
Comments
thanks first time poster (rookie car owner)
Sometimes just replacing or repair of the valve body will work, a sure thing is pump bushings also. The valve body can be done installed, trans needs to be removed for pump bushing. At 110,000 most shops would want to do a complete overhaul if removed for repair.
The $300 sounds like valve body repair, that may work, if not pump bushing next.
If it was mine I would want both done, The pump is the first part to be removed so no need to go further.
Not too scare you but, if it gets to the point where it will not go into OD you will burn up the transmission, converter and all.
Replaced housing and found trans slipping at higher speeds.
Told him to replace trans with rebuilt. Bought used one and had his friends install...(Ishould have done it)
Now it does NOTHING! Just revs in all gears, no grinding or odd noises. He said when the finished it moved out of garage, they stopped and check levels of fluid, added more. Than it did nothing. I checked level and it was 1/2 up the stick..I mean like 4 qts heavy!, I pulled pan, filter is good, lots of metal on magnet. Filled to proper level. Still nothing. I hate to believe he got a bad trans but would like to know if they maybe missed something? For it to wrok for a moment and not to work after over filling seems odd.
Thanks
If it won't go in manual 1-2-3-R, it's not electrical.
All I have is 2nd and reverse. Speedometer quit at the same time.
This is the nightmare year that was in between ob1 and ob2 that you can't pull codes from. What were the "brains" at GM thinking?
New filter and fluid.
No matter where the shifter is in forward it starts in 2nd when it finally does try to upshift it acts like it's in neutral and drops back to 2nd when I step on the gas.
Also anti-lock started to act up about a week before tranny problem.
Any suggestions ?
Stuck without a ride until I fix it. Low on $$$$
Know my way around a wrench.Not a newbie.
Thanks.
Does anybody make a decent S-10 shop manual?
Clymer's and Chilton are a joke and the 4x4 section is disgusting at best.
My Bentley books (vw) are big bucks but at least they cover things.
Just ordered what I needed.
Hope shipping doesn't take too long.
Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
I noticed that you have helped a lot of people here.
I'm new to this forum, so far it's the best one I've found.
It seems most of the others are filled with kids wanting to know how
to bag their ride, install a "fart can" , or sub-woofer.
Any thoughts about my tranny problem in my first post?
I've had other cars that went in to "limp home" mode act like this.
With no way to pull codes from a '95, I'm kind of shooting in the dark here
Thanks again,
Bob in Ohio
They used the same trans in a bunch of different years, but not the same computers in the truck. The transmission must match the computer. And NO the computer from earlier years '94 or '95 won't work in newer ones. '95 was an oddball it only fits 1 year.
May not be your problem, but something to look at.
Needs to come apart.
Found another '95 transmission, transfer case, and t converter for $200.
Ugh I hate the thought of doing this job , No help around.
Thanks,
Bob in Ohio
Only problem is I've got so much stuff in the way it takes me an hour to make room to work on anything. Have a workshop that I built to work on 1 car at a time that has more stuff in it than most dealerships, everything but a lift.
rothautobooks.com
Used, but in better shape than described, mostly on the cover, just a little dirty.
1 of a 2 part set.
The others are (2) the mechanical, and there are some detailed supplements for sub-systems like air bags, A/C, anti-lock, auto-transmission.
The one I have details all the problems that have you banging your head against the wall, and in depth coverage. Not for the guy with a screwdriver and a $5.00 socket set with the car up on cement blocks behind the house.
Been there, done that. (young and dumb) I miss my '65 Satellite street racer, and my hair ! Getting the mechanical book when the price is right.
Bob
Pulls and shifts good, just this little glitch.
I suspect a solenoid or modulator problem, but I dont know enough about these new fangled computer trannys to know where to start.
Any suggestions?