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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems

The clutch on my '95 4 cyl S-10 sticks when it gets warm and after repeated shifts. The problem gets worse the warmer the engine temperature gets. When I run the A/C I can count on having the clutch stick in the engaged position regularly (the pedal comes up, but clutch stays engaged). Had clutch, throw-out bearing, etc., replaced and made no difference. Also there's a distinct squeaking noise from the clutch pedal. Any ideas?


  • clutch spring?
  • doug32doug32 Posts: 1
    When stopped at a traffic light and holding my foot on the brake, the engine surges and it is hard to hold the brake pedal down enough to keep it from jumping forward. It does this over and over.

    Seems to idle too fast also.

    1995 Chevy S-10 Automatic.
  • well guys im new here and need some help. we are converting an old 68' 307 and tranny to a 88' s10. dont know if it is going to fit? need osme feedback!
  • tut5000tut5000 Posts: 1
    would a 93 s10 manual transmission fit a 95 s10
  • shanny143shanny143 Posts: 1
    how do I fix the overdrive solenoid in my 1993 s10 pickup??
    I really need sme help I have absolutely no clue what I am doing
  • mikecarnomikecarno Posts: 3
    bobbo, Did you ever get an answer to your problem? I am having the same difficulty and could use some help.
  • mikecarnomikecarno Posts: 3
    The clutch on my '95 4 cyl S-10 sticks when it gets warm and after repeated shifts. The problem gets worse the warmer the engine temperature gets. When I run the A/C I can count on having the clutch stick in the engaged position regularly (the pedal comes up, but clutch stays engaged). Also there's a distinct squeaking noise from the clutch pedal. Any ideas?
  • Hi Mike,

    No, unfortunately I haven't gotten a response. One mechanic told me I should switch to a high-performance hydraulic fluid so it wouldn't "boil." The brakes work fine and I think they and the clutch work on the same fluid, so I don't different hydraulic fluid would matter. Do you think the slave cylinder might be the problem?

  • mikecarnomikecarno Posts: 3
    It wouldn't be a boiling problem it would have done it before. It hasn't done it lately, but if I find out anything I'll pass it on..............It could very possibly be the slave cyl.
  • race10race10 Posts: 4
    I have a '93 S10 and it ran fine just 2 weeks ago and then I left it sit in my drive and tried driveing it yesterday and it wouldn't shift out of first gear. The speedometer don't work either. I was told it might be the "brain" or computer under the dash but i pulled the dash apart and everything seemed to be connected. I'm in desperate need for some help. :cry:
  • jwillettjwillett Posts: 1
    my 98 sonoma is difficult to put into first gear. The clutch is pushed all the way in, and it takes some pushing to get the stick into first. If i am stopped on a steep hill i can put it in first and then take my foot off of the break and i wont roll back. What the heck?
  • tkctkctkctkc Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 S10 with auto trans. I have had it rebulit 3 times and it is going out again! What can I swap it out with?
  • Sounds like your clutch isn't completly disengauging. Had the same problem with my 86 S-10. You have a hydraulic clutch right? Suggest you check your clutch master cylinder for a full resevoir and bleed the clutch. If no help you might need a new clutch.
  • xchevyxxchevyx Posts: 3
    my 1994 gmc sonoma does the same thing what do you think is wrong? please reply :(
  • xchevyxxchevyx Posts: 3
    my gmc sonoma seems to be sluggish when its below 40 miles and hour can ant one tell me whats wrong if so e-mail me at [email protected]
  • Well, I'm dealing with my dad's '98 S10, 4cyl auto 2wd pickup and, after getting the wrong seal from Checkers, we got the right one in. Stopped the leak, but...

    It runs pretty stable in 1st and 2nd, 3rd is a little weird with the speedometer moving all over the place, then getting into drive (4th?) seems to have a problem until it's finally in there, but the speedo doesn't settle down. Some funny noises, good, clean fluid level. My Haynes manual suggests making sure the vent is clear, but there's no pictures and I can't find it. I don't see an old-fashioned modualtor to be sure the hoses are hooked up and there are som strange noises, like running a stick acroos a picket fence...

    Sound familiar? Did anyone come back to you with a swap option or suggestions?

  • xchevyxxchevyx Posts: 3
    no i didn't get a response but if you find out please let me know
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As mentioned in the post box, please do not include your email address in your messages. We have no control over who may use it (and sometimes maliciously), plus it's more benefiocial to the group when answers are posted here where someone who may be having the same problem can see it.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • I have a 1998 Chevy S10 with manual transmission and it started leaking around the front seal yesterday and has increased as of this evening and now I have started leaking Oil. It appears the oil is around the Rear of the engine.

    I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions.

    Friend said it sounds like Front Tranny seal and rear main seal on the engine.

    Any suggestions or help greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 1995 S10 with the 4x4 shifter on the floor. The shifter was stuck in 4 low, as the linkage broke while shifting back out of 4 low. I removed the console and found that there is a part, about an inch long and 3/4 of an inch wide that screws onto a rod that goes forward to the front of the console and out to the transfer case, I am assuming? This part, which has a plastic insert pressed into it, is what is broken. Can anyone please help me locate a name for it? THANKS in advance!!
  • My 95 S10 manual tran. will go in gear but will not go. It acts as if it is in neutral. Any idea what is wrong?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Is it 2wd or 4wd?
  • msandmsand Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 s10 2wd pickup. Sometimes when I depress the clutch it whines a bit but not always. What could be the problem?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My S-10 is automatic so I'm not that familiar with the particulars. In general though, if you have a throw-out bearing that's on its way out, it will act up it's worse when you press in the clutch. How many miles on the truck or since you last replaced the clutch? If your S-10 has a slave cylinder you might check it's fluid reservoir to make sure it isn't low. If its not the hydraulic type and has the mechanical type linkage you might check the adjustment. Sometimes they get just enough slop in them to set up a vibration our resonance that is irritating.
    Good luck :)
  • I got in my truck yesterday and the clutch pedal went all the way down to the floor. It had been getting closer and closer for about a week. Now it goes all the way to the floor, truck will start, but I can't get it to shift into any gears. Is it my clutch? :sick:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    The question is more like what part of the clutch. Does it have a slave cylinder that's leaking or dry on fluid? Does it have adjustments to it? You are correct in that if the clutch can't disengage, shifting is next to impossible while the engine is running. :)
  • Thanks for the reply. It has a slave cylinder, if that is like a brake cylinder, the fluid level is fine and there are no leaks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    When you say that your clutch goes all the way down to the floor, do you mean be for it disengages? It would be upsetting if a person stood on the clutch and the pedal wouldn't go to the floor. On a non-hydraulic clutch, most common is slipping. On hydraulic driven clutch as yours, the problem sounds like the clutch won't disengage. If the hydraulics aren't leaking externally perhaps its master cylinder is leaking internally. On brake master cylinders which are similar, sometimes wear and age on the piston seals will leak by causing the brakes to feel spongy with out external leaks.
    John :)
  • Hello my friend.
    The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor so I can start the truck. But it want let me shift into any gear. I pushed hard on the shifter and it want go into any gears.
    David :sick:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    If your truck will shift when the engine is turned off but won't shift while running, I'd say its time to get out the floor jack, jack stands, and the old tool box. On older trucks, especially column shift, they would get double shift, or stuck in two gears at the same time. However, I don't think that's your situation. If you have a "soft" clutch when you try to disengage, I would say its somewhere between your pedal linkage, clutch cylinder, and slave cylinder. Even if your clutch was on its way out, you should still be able to disengage and shift gears.
    Good luck,
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