Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems
bobbo_32211
Member Posts: 3
in Chevrolet
The clutch on my '95 4 cyl S-10 sticks when it gets warm and after repeated shifts. The problem gets worse the warmer the engine temperature gets. When I run the A/C I can count on having the clutch stick in the engaged position regularly (the pedal comes up, but clutch stays engaged). Had clutch, throw-out bearing, etc., replaced and made no difference. Also there's a distinct squeaking noise from the clutch pedal. Any ideas?
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Seems to idle too fast also.
1995 Chevy S-10 Automatic.
I really need sme help I have absolutely no clue what I am doing
No, unfortunately I haven't gotten a response. One mechanic told me I should switch to a high-performance hydraulic fluid so it wouldn't "boil." The brakes work fine and I think they and the clutch work on the same fluid, so I don't different hydraulic fluid would matter. Do you think the slave cylinder might be the problem?
Bob
It runs pretty stable in 1st and 2nd, 3rd is a little weird with the speedometer moving all over the place, then getting into drive (4th?) seems to have a problem until it's finally in there, but the speedo doesn't settle down. Some funny noises, good, clean fluid level. My Haynes manual suggests making sure the vent is clear, but there's no pictures and I can't find it. I don't see an old-fashioned modualtor to be sure the hoses are hooked up and there are som strange noises, like running a stick acroos a picket fence...
Sound familiar? Did anyone come back to you with a swap option or suggestions?
harryevan
kcram - Pickups Host
I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions.
Friend said it sounds like Front Tranny seal and rear main seal on the engine.
Any suggestions or help greatly appreciated.
Good luck
David
The question is more like what part of the clutch. Does it have a slave cylinder that's leaking or dry on fluid? Does it have adjustments to it? You are correct in that if the clutch can't disengage, shifting is next to impossible while the engine is running.
When you say that your clutch goes all the way down to the floor, do you mean be for it disengages? It would be upsetting if a person stood on the clutch and the pedal wouldn't go to the floor. On a non-hydraulic clutch, most common is slipping. On hydraulic driven clutch as yours, the problem sounds like the clutch won't disengage. If the hydraulics aren't leaking externally perhaps its master cylinder is leaking internally. On brake master cylinders which are similar, sometimes wear and age on the piston seals will leak by causing the brakes to feel spongy with out external leaks.
John
The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor so I can start the truck. But it want let me shift into any gear. I pushed hard on the shifter and it want go into any gears.
David :sick:
Good luck,
......Also, you can still drive w/o using the clutch. Just start the truck in gear and give it some gas. Go slowly at first til you get the feel of the shift points, then just shift when you can "feel" the spot. I've been driving my truck for 3 weeks now w/o my clutch.
david
Thank you... Jeremy
Not being a transmission man I don't know how involved it gets replacing the retainer. When I have major internal tranny repair I pull it out and take it to a transmission shop. But before you do that I would suggest letting the transmission shop people take it on a test drive first. Its free and that way you know what your up against. I've experienced the same problem before on trucks, jeeps, and back hoes. Its no fun going down a steep grade and it jumps out of gear.
Good luck
My truck is an 02' ZR2 and today when I put it in 4x4, it kept making an occasional CLUNK noise. If I put it in 4 low and 4 hi and it does the same. In two wheel it's fine. I drove it to work in 4x4 and it was fine, but the drive home was different. I've had it in 4x4 before and it was ok. Any ideas for a possible solution?? It sure don't sound good
Which line is the low pressure one? The top or bottom one that goes into the radiator?
Someone told me the filter is internal. I believe I have the deep pan tranny. Any major hassles replacing?
Going to idle the truck with the low pressure line inserted into a container while I add fresh fluid. How many quarts needed?
Thanks
Unless you do heavy towing the extra tranny cooler is superfluous. In most cases the radiator cooler is all you need.
The top line or the bottom line have the same pressure. One is supply to radiator and the other is return. My guess is the one on top is in and the one on the bottom is out.
The last time I flushed out my cooler(which is a heat exchanger inside the radiator) I used a can of flush I got at the parts store. It comes with a hose and fitting attached. The reason I did it then was I just had my transmission overhauled and it was required for the guarantee. With both lines disconnected at the transmission I attached the hose to one line and used half of the can in one direction, then reversed, using the remainder of can the other way.
To change the transmission filter its not complicated but it is messy, no matter what way you go about it. When I had the pan off I installed a drain plug, which helps in subsequent changes, but its still a mess.
I don't recommend the blood letting procedure your alluding to in your post. I think if I was going to go that route I would take it to a transmission shop where they can hook it up to their flush equipment and back flush. A few years back when I inquired it was a $150 procedure.
Normally 40K miles isn't enough miles for the trans to be worn out. To me 40K is just starting to get broke in. But then again I usually drive them till the wheels fall off.
Good luck,
Thanks
Your circumstances are baffling. The transmission heat exchanger is sealed inside the radiator. I can’t think of any way that the coolant could mix with the transmission fluid.
Doesn’t matter, bottom line, $1.8k repair bill sucks I’m sure. I would be disappointed too.
I guess a person can get a lemon in any make or model.
:sick:
birdman4
First Post
-Bob