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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems

The clutch on my '95 4 cyl S-10 sticks when it gets warm and after repeated shifts. The problem gets worse the warmer the engine temperature gets. When I run the A/C I can count on having the clutch stick in the engaged position regularly (the pedal comes up, but clutch stays engaged). Had clutch, throw-out bearing, etc., replaced and made no difference. Also there's a distinct squeaking noise from the clutch pedal. Any ideas?
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Comments

  • clutch spring?
  • doug32doug32 Posts: 1
    When stopped at a traffic light and holding my foot on the brake, the engine surges and it is hard to hold the brake pedal down enough to keep it from jumping forward. It does this over and over.

    Seems to idle too fast also.

    1995 Chevy S-10 Automatic.
  • well guys im new here and need some help. we are converting an old 68' 307 and tranny to a 88' s10. dont know if it is going to fit? need osme feedback!
  • tut5000tut5000 Posts: 1
    would a 93 s10 manual transmission fit a 95 s10
  • shanny143shanny143 Posts: 1
    how do I fix the overdrive solenoid in my 1993 s10 pickup??
    I really need sme help I have absolutely no clue what I am doing
  • mikecarnomikecarno Posts: 3
    bobbo, Did you ever get an answer to your problem? I am having the same difficulty and could use some help.
  • mikecarnomikecarno Posts: 3
    The clutch on my '95 4 cyl S-10 sticks when it gets warm and after repeated shifts. The problem gets worse the warmer the engine temperature gets. When I run the A/C I can count on having the clutch stick in the engaged position regularly (the pedal comes up, but clutch stays engaged). Also there's a distinct squeaking noise from the clutch pedal. Any ideas?
  • Hi Mike,

    No, unfortunately I haven't gotten a response. One mechanic told me I should switch to a high-performance hydraulic fluid so it wouldn't "boil." The brakes work fine and I think they and the clutch work on the same fluid, so I don't different hydraulic fluid would matter. Do you think the slave cylinder might be the problem?

    Bob
  • mikecarnomikecarno Posts: 3
    It wouldn't be a boiling problem it would have done it before. It hasn't done it lately, but if I find out anything I'll pass it on..............It could very possibly be the slave cyl.
  • race10race10 Posts: 4
    I have a '93 S10 and it ran fine just 2 weeks ago and then I left it sit in my drive and tried driveing it yesterday and it wouldn't shift out of first gear. The speedometer don't work either. I was told it might be the "brain" or computer under the dash but i pulled the dash apart and everything seemed to be connected. I'm in desperate need for some help. :cry:
  • jwillettjwillett Posts: 1
    my 98 sonoma is difficult to put into first gear. The clutch is pushed all the way in, and it takes some pushing to get the stick into first. If i am stopped on a steep hill i can put it in first and then take my foot off of the break and i wont roll back. What the heck?
  • tkctkctkctkc Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 S10 with auto trans. I have had it rebulit 3 times and it is going out again! What can I swap it out with?
  • Sounds like your clutch isn't completly disengauging. Had the same problem with my 86 S-10. You have a hydraulic clutch right? Suggest you check your clutch master cylinder for a full resevoir and bleed the clutch. If no help you might need a new clutch.
  • xchevyxxchevyx Posts: 3
    my 1994 gmc sonoma does the same thing what do you think is wrong? please reply :(
  • xchevyxxchevyx Posts: 3
    my gmc sonoma seems to be sluggish when its below 40 miles and hour can ant one tell me whats wrong if so e-mail me at [email protected]
  • Well, I'm dealing with my dad's '98 S10, 4cyl auto 2wd pickup and, after getting the wrong seal from Checkers, we got the right one in. Stopped the leak, but...

    It runs pretty stable in 1st and 2nd, 3rd is a little weird with the speedometer moving all over the place, then getting into drive (4th?) seems to have a problem until it's finally in there, but the speedo doesn't settle down. Some funny noises, good, clean fluid level. My Haynes manual suggests making sure the vent is clear, but there's no pictures and I can't find it. I don't see an old-fashioned modualtor to be sure the hoses are hooked up and there are som strange noises, like running a stick acroos a picket fence...

    Sound familiar? Did anyone come back to you with a swap option or suggestions?

    harryevan
  • xchevyxxchevyx Posts: 3
    no i didn't get a response but if you find out please let me know
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As mentioned in the post box, please do not include your email address in your messages. We have no control over who may use it (and sometimes maliciously), plus it's more benefiocial to the group when answers are posted here where someone who may be having the same problem can see it.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • I have a 1998 Chevy S10 with manual transmission and it started leaking around the front seal yesterday and has increased as of this evening and now I have started leaking Oil. It appears the oil is around the Rear of the engine.

    I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions.

    Friend said it sounds like Front Tranny seal and rear main seal on the engine.

    Any suggestions or help greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 1995 S10 with the 4x4 shifter on the floor. The shifter was stuck in 4 low, as the linkage broke while shifting back out of 4 low. I removed the console and found that there is a part, about an inch long and 3/4 of an inch wide that screws onto a rod that goes forward to the front of the console and out to the transfer case, I am assuming? This part, which has a plastic insert pressed into it, is what is broken. Can anyone please help me locate a name for it? THANKS in advance!!
  • My 95 S10 manual tran. will go in gear but will not go. It acts as if it is in neutral. Any idea what is wrong?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Is it 2wd or 4wd?
  • msandmsand Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 s10 2wd pickup. Sometimes when I depress the clutch it whines a bit but not always. What could be the problem?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My S-10 is automatic so I'm not that familiar with the particulars. In general though, if you have a throw-out bearing that's on its way out, it will act up it's worse when you press in the clutch. How many miles on the truck or since you last replaced the clutch? If your S-10 has a slave cylinder you might check it's fluid reservoir to make sure it isn't low. If its not the hydraulic type and has the mechanical type linkage you might check the adjustment. Sometimes they get just enough slop in them to set up a vibration our resonance that is irritating.
    Good luck :)
  • I got in my truck yesterday and the clutch pedal went all the way down to the floor. It had been getting closer and closer for about a week. Now it goes all the way to the floor, truck will start, but I can't get it to shift into any gears. Is it my clutch? :sick:
    David
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Dave,
    The question is more like what part of the clutch. Does it have a slave cylinder that's leaking or dry on fluid? Does it have adjustments to it? You are correct in that if the clutch can't disengage, shifting is next to impossible while the engine is running. :)
  • Thanks for the reply. It has a slave cylinder, if that is like a brake cylinder, the fluid level is fine and there are no leaks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Dave,
    When you say that your clutch goes all the way down to the floor, do you mean be for it disengages? It would be upsetting if a person stood on the clutch and the pedal wouldn't go to the floor. On a non-hydraulic clutch, most common is slipping. On hydraulic driven clutch as yours, the problem sounds like the clutch won't disengage. If the hydraulics aren't leaking externally perhaps its master cylinder is leaking internally. On brake master cylinders which are similar, sometimes wear and age on the piston seals will leak by causing the brakes to feel spongy with out external leaks.
    John :)
  • Hello my friend.
    The clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor so I can start the truck. But it want let me shift into any gear. I pushed hard on the shifter and it want go into any gears.
    David :sick:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    If your truck will shift when the engine is turned off but won't shift while running, I'd say its time to get out the floor jack, jack stands, and the old tool box. On older trucks, especially column shift, they would get double shift, or stuck in two gears at the same time. However, I don't think that's your situation. If you have a "soft" clutch when you try to disengage, I would say its somewhere between your pedal linkage, clutch cylinder, and slave cylinder. Even if your clutch was on its way out, you should still be able to disengage and shift gears.
    Good luck,
    :)
  • I just went outside and the clutch pedal still goes all the way to the floor, but it will shift through the gears without the truck running, I wouldn't even start to know what to even look far. :sick:
  • It sounds like your slave cylinder went bad.....I have a 96 s10 p/up with the same problem. To do it yourself will cost you around $100 for the part or $400-$500 for a tranny shop to do it. while you are in there, you might want to consider changing out your clutch kit(around $200), since the tranny needs to be dropped to get at the part.
    ......Also, you can still drive w/o using the clutch. Just start the truck in gear and give it some gas. Go slowly at first til you get the feel of the shift points, then just shift when you can "feel" the spot. I've been driving my truck for 3 weeks now w/o my clutch.
  • Thank you for the reply. It ended up being the Clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder and a clutch kit. All together it cost $982.00. The clutch kit did have everything in it thou :shades: gh.
    david
  • I have a 1998 s-10, and its a manual transmission. It drives great with plenty of power, but coasting down hill with the clutch out, it will pop out of 5th gear. But I can push it back in and give it a little gas and it'll stay. And also when I put it into reverse, sometimes it'll not go all the way in(but feels like it is, because it will not go any further) and not go no where and I have to stop and put it on in. Do you know what this might be.
    Thank you... Jeremy
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Jeremy,
    Not being a transmission man I don't know how involved it gets replacing the retainer. When I have major internal tranny repair I pull it out and take it to a transmission shop. But before you do that I would suggest letting the transmission shop people take it on a test drive first. Its free and that way you know what your up against. I've experienced the same problem before on trucks, jeeps, and back hoes. Its no fun going down a steep grade and it jumps out of gear.
    Good luck :)
  • i have a 1986 s-10 and i have just put a clutch master cylender in it,could anyone please tell me how to bleed it,is there a certain way to go about it...please !!I need help!!!
  • Hi
    My truck is an 02' ZR2 and today when I put it in 4x4, it kept making an occasional CLUNK noise. If I put it in 4 low and 4 hi and it does the same. In two wheel it's fine. I drove it to work in 4x4 and it was fine, but the drive home was different. I've had it in 4x4 before and it was ok. Any ideas for a possible solution?? It sure don't sound good
  • rsr64rsr64 Posts: 2
  • rsr64rsr64 Posts: 2
    Owned since new, now has 40,000 miles. Tranny makes a whining noise sometimes when cold. Sounds like a pump problem. I`m going to try changing the the filter, installing a cooler, and flushing it out. A few questions:

    Which line is the low pressure one? The top or bottom one that goes into the radiator?

    Someone told me the filter is internal. I believe I have the deep pan tranny. Any major hassles replacing?

    Going to idle the truck with the low pressure line inserted into a container while I add fresh fluid. How many quarts needed?

    Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My advice is to take your truck to a transmission shop you trust and let them test drive. Its free and they will give you some insight.

    Unless you do heavy towing the extra tranny cooler is superfluous. In most cases the radiator cooler is all you need.

    The top line or the bottom line have the same pressure. One is supply to radiator and the other is return. My guess is the one on top is in and the one on the bottom is out.

    The last time I flushed out my cooler(which is a heat exchanger inside the radiator) I used a can of flush I got at the parts store. It comes with a hose and fitting attached. The reason I did it then was I just had my transmission overhauled and it was required for the guarantee. With both lines disconnected at the transmission I attached the hose to one line and used half of the can in one direction, then reversed, using the remainder of can the other way.

    To change the transmission filter its not complicated but it is messy, no matter what way you go about it. When I had the pan off I installed a drain plug, which helps in subsequent changes, but its still a mess.

    I don't recommend the blood letting procedure your alluding to in your post. I think if I was going to go that route I would take it to a transmission shop where they can hook it up to their flush equipment and back flush. A few years back when I inquired it was a $150 procedure.

    Normally 40K miles isn't enough miles for the trans to be worn out. To me 40K is just starting to get broke in. But then again I usually drive them till the wheels fall off.

    Good luck, :D
  • I moved a rather heavy load with my S10 some time ago. After that the manual transimission slipped a little when I first took off but then seemed ok after I started rolling. This was usually for short trips around town. Gradually it got worse and after a 20 mile trip I noticed a foul smell and the truck would not move. The clutch master cylinder has fluid, the clutch pedal offers resistance when I depress it. Sometimes the truck tries to move forward or backward just a little. Any ideas on what's going on?

    Thanks
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Burned up clutch disc and/or pressure plate......
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I'm sure you have a pretty good idea of what the story is but if you need conformation take it to a transmission shop. They won't charge you just to trouble shoot it for you and they can also give you an estimate on cost of repair. :shades:
  • cterrijcterrij Posts: 1
    This is the exact thing that happened to me this last weekend. Apparently, a pump went out between the radiator and the transmission allowing the fluids to mix. Bottom line - transmission needs to be rebuilt and the radiator needs to be replaced, all for the very reasonable price of $1800! I'm kind of sorry we bought it and would like to hear some good things about the chevy S10 if there are any.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sorry to here about your unfortunate encounter with your first S-10. I have done moderate towing before with 4.3 S-10s and had no problems. Of course every thing has its limitations. Once I towed a Uhaul trailer packed out with probably 2.5k lbs. of household goods from Houston to St. Louis with no problems, no strain.

    Your circumstances are baffling. The transmission heat exchanger is sealed inside the radiator. I can’t think of any way that the coolant could mix with the transmission fluid.

    Doesn’t matter, bottom line, $1.8k repair bill sucks I’m sure. I would be disappointed too.

    I guess a person can get a lemon in any make or model.

    :sick:
  • birdman4birdman4 Posts: 2
    Thank you for the help. I thought it might have been a ruined clutch. I took the truck to the shop and had a clutch kit and master cylinder install and it runs well now.
    birdman4
  • givygivy Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S10 with 60,000 miles and an automatic transmission that has had no problems except this: I live in an area with steep hills and, when I stop at the base of a hill with my truck headed up a steep incline, my transmission seems totally unengaged when I take my foot off the brake and press the accelerator. That is, my engine accelerates, but the transmission does not seem to engage. By putting the transmission in neutral and letting my truck roll backwards to level ground, the transmission will engage when it is put back into Drive. Any idea what the problem may be? Thanks!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Check fluid level hot, and vehicle level. There is a cold check on the stick at the bottom reading, this is just to get you in the ball park. By hot, truck run 10-15 miles.
  • ryogetaryogeta Posts: 1
    :confuse: So I recently (well before I let it sit for the last couple of months) swapped in an engine from a 98 S10 into my 95 Sonoma. Problem is I now seem to have no horsepower and it has a tough time changing gears. I got the engine from a yard and it ran before it was taken out, but it was on a manual truck and mine is an automatic. It only wants to shift when I let off the gas, if I keep on it it'll just rev till it blows (I'm assuming, never let it rev that high for to long). Any help you guys could give on where to start looking would be helpful. Thanks in advance

    First Post :)

    -Bob
  • bradlymbradlym Posts: 1
    i have noticed in the past couple of weeks when my truck shifts from 1st to 2nd that there is a slight whining noise. and it won't go away until i let off on the gas. And my RPMs stay high whenever the whining noise if there. what could be the problem and how do i fix it?
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