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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Transmission Problems



  • I just went outside and the clutch pedal still goes all the way to the floor, but it will shift through the gears without the truck running, I wouldn't even start to know what to even look far. :sick:
  • It sounds like your slave cylinder went bad.....I have a 96 s10 p/up with the same problem. To do it yourself will cost you around $100 for the part or $400-$500 for a tranny shop to do it. while you are in there, you might want to consider changing out your clutch kit(around $200), since the tranny needs to be dropped to get at the part.
    ......Also, you can still drive w/o using the clutch. Just start the truck in gear and give it some gas. Go slowly at first til you get the feel of the shift points, then just shift when you can "feel" the spot. I've been driving my truck for 3 weeks now w/o my clutch.
  • Thank you for the reply. It ended up being the Clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder and a clutch kit. All together it cost $982.00. The clutch kit did have everything in it thou :shades: gh.
  • I have a 1998 s-10, and its a manual transmission. It drives great with plenty of power, but coasting down hill with the clutch out, it will pop out of 5th gear. But I can push it back in and give it a little gas and it'll stay. And also when I put it into reverse, sometimes it'll not go all the way in(but feels like it is, because it will not go any further) and not go no where and I have to stop and put it on in. Do you know what this might be.
    Thank you... Jeremy
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Not being a transmission man I don't know how involved it gets replacing the retainer. When I have major internal tranny repair I pull it out and take it to a transmission shop. But before you do that I would suggest letting the transmission shop people take it on a test drive first. Its free and that way you know what your up against. I've experienced the same problem before on trucks, jeeps, and back hoes. Its no fun going down a steep grade and it jumps out of gear.
    Good luck :)
  • i have a 1986 s-10 and i have just put a clutch master cylender in it,could anyone please tell me how to bleed it,is there a certain way to go about it...please !!I need help!!!
  • Hi
    My truck is an 02' ZR2 and today when I put it in 4x4, it kept making an occasional CLUNK noise. If I put it in 4 low and 4 hi and it does the same. In two wheel it's fine. I drove it to work in 4x4 and it was fine, but the drive home was different. I've had it in 4x4 before and it was ok. Any ideas for a possible solution?? It sure don't sound good
  • rsr64rsr64 Posts: 2
  • rsr64rsr64 Posts: 2
    Owned since new, now has 40,000 miles. Tranny makes a whining noise sometimes when cold. Sounds like a pump problem. I`m going to try changing the the filter, installing a cooler, and flushing it out. A few questions:

    Which line is the low pressure one? The top or bottom one that goes into the radiator?

    Someone told me the filter is internal. I believe I have the deep pan tranny. Any major hassles replacing?

    Going to idle the truck with the low pressure line inserted into a container while I add fresh fluid. How many quarts needed?

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My advice is to take your truck to a transmission shop you trust and let them test drive. Its free and they will give you some insight.

    Unless you do heavy towing the extra tranny cooler is superfluous. In most cases the radiator cooler is all you need.

    The top line or the bottom line have the same pressure. One is supply to radiator and the other is return. My guess is the one on top is in and the one on the bottom is out.

    The last time I flushed out my cooler(which is a heat exchanger inside the radiator) I used a can of flush I got at the parts store. It comes with a hose and fitting attached. The reason I did it then was I just had my transmission overhauled and it was required for the guarantee. With both lines disconnected at the transmission I attached the hose to one line and used half of the can in one direction, then reversed, using the remainder of can the other way.

    To change the transmission filter its not complicated but it is messy, no matter what way you go about it. When I had the pan off I installed a drain plug, which helps in subsequent changes, but its still a mess.

    I don't recommend the blood letting procedure your alluding to in your post. I think if I was going to go that route I would take it to a transmission shop where they can hook it up to their flush equipment and back flush. A few years back when I inquired it was a $150 procedure.

    Normally 40K miles isn't enough miles for the trans to be worn out. To me 40K is just starting to get broke in. But then again I usually drive them till the wheels fall off.

    Good luck, :D
  • I moved a rather heavy load with my S10 some time ago. After that the manual transimission slipped a little when I first took off but then seemed ok after I started rolling. This was usually for short trips around town. Gradually it got worse and after a 20 mile trip I noticed a foul smell and the truck would not move. The clutch master cylinder has fluid, the clutch pedal offers resistance when I depress it. Sometimes the truck tries to move forward or backward just a little. Any ideas on what's going on?

  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Burned up clutch disc and/or pressure plate......
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I'm sure you have a pretty good idea of what the story is but if you need conformation take it to a transmission shop. They won't charge you just to trouble shoot it for you and they can also give you an estimate on cost of repair. :shades:
  • cterrijcterrij Posts: 1
    This is the exact thing that happened to me this last weekend. Apparently, a pump went out between the radiator and the transmission allowing the fluids to mix. Bottom line - transmission needs to be rebuilt and the radiator needs to be replaced, all for the very reasonable price of $1800! I'm kind of sorry we bought it and would like to hear some good things about the chevy S10 if there are any.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sorry to here about your unfortunate encounter with your first S-10. I have done moderate towing before with 4.3 S-10s and had no problems. Of course every thing has its limitations. Once I towed a Uhaul trailer packed out with probably 2.5k lbs. of household goods from Houston to St. Louis with no problems, no strain.

    Your circumstances are baffling. The transmission heat exchanger is sealed inside the radiator. I can’t think of any way that the coolant could mix with the transmission fluid.

    Doesn’t matter, bottom line, $1.8k repair bill sucks I’m sure. I would be disappointed too.

    I guess a person can get a lemon in any make or model.

  • birdman4birdman4 Posts: 2
    Thank you for the help. I thought it might have been a ruined clutch. I took the truck to the shop and had a clutch kit and master cylinder install and it runs well now.
  • givygivy Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S10 with 60,000 miles and an automatic transmission that has had no problems except this: I live in an area with steep hills and, when I stop at the base of a hill with my truck headed up a steep incline, my transmission seems totally unengaged when I take my foot off the brake and press the accelerator. That is, my engine accelerates, but the transmission does not seem to engage. By putting the transmission in neutral and letting my truck roll backwards to level ground, the transmission will engage when it is put back into Drive. Any idea what the problem may be? Thanks!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Check fluid level hot, and vehicle level. There is a cold check on the stick at the bottom reading, this is just to get you in the ball park. By hot, truck run 10-15 miles.
  • ryogetaryogeta Posts: 1
    :confuse: So I recently (well before I let it sit for the last couple of months) swapped in an engine from a 98 S10 into my 95 Sonoma. Problem is I now seem to have no horsepower and it has a tough time changing gears. I got the engine from a yard and it ran before it was taken out, but it was on a manual truck and mine is an automatic. It only wants to shift when I let off the gas, if I keep on it it'll just rev till it blows (I'm assuming, never let it rev that high for to long). Any help you guys could give on where to start looking would be helpful. Thanks in advance

    First Post :)

  • bradlymbradlym Posts: 1
    i have noticed in the past couple of weeks when my truck shifts from 1st to 2nd that there is a slight whining noise. and it won't go away until i let off on the gas. And my RPMs stay high whenever the whining noise if there. what could be the problem and how do i fix it?
  • rdystgordystgo Posts: 9
    i need to know if a 700r4 or other overdrive trans will work in a 93 chevy s10 4.3 it has a 4L60E trying to save same money. also need to know if thare are any major modafacation that will need to be made like cutting weldind and drive shaft mods. this is a exstinded cab truck 2 wheel drive. the coast of a replace ment trans is 1700 and im not made of money and the truck ant worth a 2000 dollare repair. thanks craig. i also have a set of 18s and 20s with tires if anyone want to buy them or trade for a good trans
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Best advice I can give is stick to what's in it, lot less headaches.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I second Mr. Gonogo’s advice. Even if they did interchange without major metal work, it gets complicated with all the electronics. . I don’t know if the two will interchange or not.

    My neighbor is going through all the headaches on his old truck with changing out the original running gear with other.

    Last year I had the trany overhauled on my S-10. I dropped it and put it back up myself to save a few bucks. The transmission shop charged me $550 to put an overhaul kit in it. By the time I got done I had around $600. in it and its been trouble free since.

    Good luck. Keep us posted on how it works out. :)
  • I have a 1996 S10 with 200,000 miles. The tranny will go into gear and drive down the road about 3/4 mile until the tranny warms up and then it will not go any further. Once it cools off it will do the same thing again. Fluid level is fine and looks and smells clean, but I have not checked the filter yet.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    My guess would be internal leakage, the fluid leaks past most when hot and thin. If it was just the fluid overheating it would go into limp mode and keep going. If it is a 200K with no overhaul, it's time has come.
  • youghyough Posts: 7
    i need to know if anyone has had a problem with overheating in their trcuk i have lowerd my truck and everything but now iam having problems with overheating and i just need to know if you have any tricks or you know how to fix it
  • youghyough Posts: 7
    well you see im not sure what it is because it is really is my cousins truck i know its a s10 and its lowerd and he needs to try to fix this or he is going to sell it and i dont want him to have to do that but know we rode in it up the highway and it gets overheated going faster like even at speed limit it overheats it even makes it hot to drive in the drivers seat do you know how to fix this?
  • youghyough Posts: 7
    well you see im not sure what it is because it is really is my cousins truck i know its a s10 and its lowerd and he needs to try to fix this or he is going to sell it and i dont want him to have to do that but know we rode in it up the highway and it gets overheated going faster like even at speedy limit it overheats it even makes it hot to drive in the drivers seat do you know what i can do or how i can fix that ?
  • Hi i am writing to ask about my clutch problem first. i recently bought a truck which had a new clutch put in, problem is when i push the clutch(sometimes) it is really hard to get it into first gear and when i try to get into reverse it will grind. i bled the slave cylinder and on other trucks i noticed you can tell at a certain point where the clutch is engaged but it isnt really noticeable on this one.

    Also my 4 wheel drive is not working, i can shift it into low gear and it goes into low but front tires arent locked in.

    BTW 1995 s10 4.3 TBI 5 speed
  • If your truck is overheating when not moving my guess would be that the overheating problem is not linked to lowering the truck. If the fluid level is fine remove the radiator cap when it is cool and see if the water is circulating, if not your water pump may be the source of your problems. Another way to see if your water pump is the problem is when you free rev the truck at high RPM's does the temperature drop? My second guess would be the thermostat is sticking closed.
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