Chevy Silverado - Continued IX

ww00650

Caught this nasty cold from my kids and havn't done much all week, except cough my lungs out.

I try to catch up on about 400 posts, and you guys nearly kill me. Laughed so hard I almost hurled. Had to walk away just to catch my breath. Keep it up, this is the best medicine i've had so far.

That new Lund part # 18064, isn't. Wrenchead gave me that part # for the 2000 silverado, and it's WRONG. 18064 is for the Sierra/Yukon new body style. Holes won't lineup unless I do some serious bending of the shield, and then it would touch the top-side of the hood. So, 18063 is STILL the correct part for the Silverados.

I'd like a copy of that cell phone diagram as well. Thanks Blue

Mike

bob332

Topic #1372 is still open for discussion on bedcaps. Bob

kanton

I was waiting for somebody else with the Rancho lift to post since the Lift discussion is shut down.

Do you have any problems with your lift? You say you had the front end rattle and it was the shaft? My rattle sounds like it is coming from the front spindle, maybe the shock, or even the cv axle? The rattle is only noticeable at slower speeds <15 mph and over bumps. I can't really feel anything loose, just hear it. It seems like it is getting worse, and also it seems like there might be something starting to bind? I hear a new "rubbing" sound when pulling out or into driveways or turning at that slow speed?

Also, upon acceleration I get a chirp. Sounds like it is coming from the rear, talked to the shop that installed the kit and they said it was the add-a-leaf. Do you get this chirp? Sounds more like it is coming from the torsion bars being loaded up? Had another shop install a different add-a-leaf and also spring clamps, and retighten everything, no changes. Luckily the shop are good guys and just swaped the add-a-leaf.

One last thing. I also just had a new dual cardan joint front drive shaft installed (autotrac). What a difference. No, I mean no vibration at any speed anymore. Even though Rancho says a replacement drive shaft is not needed, one is needed. It makes all the difference in the world. think about it, why does every other kit for this truck with autotrac need a new driveshaft and the Rancho does not?

Thanks
Kyle

gnipper

I don't have a clue what they are building in Wentzville - but GMC reps told me 4 different times on the phone my truck was being built there as well (2000 Z71, 5.3, SLT). But upon delivery earlier this month - found out it was built in Canada. Says it right on the sticker.

I don't know what GM is smoking, but I just wish they'd get up to date and make this information available real time on the web (OK - so I work for the company that does most of GM's data processing, but I don't work on the GM accounts). But I guess it'll be a cold day you know where before they ever inform the public of that kind of detail, they like keeping you in the dark.

As for the options (R6J) and price - just ask the dealer what it is, if they can't be up front and honest with you - find another dealer QUICK. If you are able to order GM discount prices they can spec, price and print your order from a PC right in their dealership. Make em do it and don't pay them a penny more, but also keep in mind a dealer doesn't have to honor the GM discounts - so you may be looking for a new dealer anyway. My truck matched exactly to the penny - except for the $25 increase in delivery fee.

redsilverado

has anyone experimented with changing to a higher
output bulb?

red

girlie3

We own a '90 Chevy Silverado Stepside, 4x4 5.7L V8
Its got 160,000 highway miles. Its been my husbands baby! So needless to say its in excellent condition. We recently added BF Goodrich tires and 2 yrs ago a new exhaust. It has an Alpine CD player and Kenwood amp and speakers. Its never towed or plowed a day in its life. We've never had any problems with it. My question is how much should we sell it for. I looked up the bookvalue and it seems like we should be asking for a bit more. Just dont know how much. Oh and it has power everything, cruise, you name it it has it. Any ideas oh how much we should ask would be greatly appreciated.

girlie3

Thats what I thought. I put an ad in the paper today and ask for $10,000/BO. We'll see what happens. I'll keep ya posted.

gnipper

I got in tonight from my weekly work week out of town to find my fog light control switch in the mail (turns the fog lights on automatically when the parking or headlights are on) and had to get it installed. Got it in and it works great! The question though - along the way I was going to reach around to the door jamb and push in the switch to turn the lights in the truck off (as if closing the door). Now it was a little dark, but the garage lights were on and I had my trouble light out - but there is no switch to be found any more, either that or I'm losing it. I have to assume that the switch has been moved inside the door panel and is operated by the piece of metal about half way up the door. Can anyone else confirm that? I guess another of GM's ways of us trying to prevent us from overriding something by getting to that switch.

BTW - Its a 2000 1/2 ton Z71.

Thanks for any confirmation.

Greg

clarkmcbrayer

Gnipper - Please tell me more about this automatic fog lamp switch. I would like to have one of those.


Red - I have not tried to increase bulb power, but let me give a warning. ***WARNING*** My cousin is the President of HELLA lighting. I once was going to do the same on my wives Dodge Intrepid head lamps and fog lamps. He advised me not to because the lenses are plastic. Only the GOOD head lamps can handle that extra heat. The lenses on Hella lamps are lead crystal and can handle it. I haven't checked to see if the fog lamps on my 2000 Silverado are glass or plastic. Be careful... You have been warned. Good Luck.

gnipper

I got it at http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/rd/. They have a couple of cool products. I think I may end up getting the one that leaves the low beams on with the high beams as well, but didn't do it yet.

The fog light switch was very easy to install, even taking off the panels around the dash. Directions are short and easy and the wires are easy to find.

It has worked every time when I used the key to turn the truck on and the automatic head lights came on. When I used the light switch to turn the lights on though, it failed to turn them on about 4 times, I tried several and probably will never use that switch to control the lights anyway, don't know what doesn't work just quite right. I may send them an email on Monday.

These trucks are amazing - everything is controlled by the computer, including these lights - its almost scary.

obyone

out of plastic? Glad I didn't buy a Dodge. Chevy's lens are made of glass....only the dash is all plastic.

gnipper

Since all of the posts have been put together. Thought I'd post for others - my first tank of gas (provided by the dealer - so I don't know that it was 100% full when I picked it up - the needle was above the F) I only got 290 miles. Filled up tonight and put 23 gallons in it. I was hoping for a little better to start off. I didn't drive it hard, but I haven't babied it either. Worked out to be 12.6 MPG. It is xtnd cab Z71, 5.3 L, but I didn't run in 4WD at all.

Several at the dealership said just don't run it real hard, otherwise drive it like you always will during the break in period, so I am. I did the same thing with my '96 - had the 5.7 L Vortec, and it ran great and never used a drop of oil for 63,000 miles.

I hope this gas mileage improves, but then again I didn't buy it for gas mileage !!

obyone

you may want to post a copy of that in topic #1632 2000 Silverado: What's Your MPG...Meredith didn't get to that one. Not yet anyway!

vince4

Our fog lights are 100% top grade plastic. No nasty glass to break there, GM's looking out for our needs. Now if only some useful light came out...

vince4

I've wanted to push that button so many times. I wish they made the dome override to also include a door override. That way you could have the key in and the driver's door open without the annoying ding ding ding. I'm going to put a door override switch on mine. I assume it's a simple matter of cutting a wire and putting a switch in series. The connector with the wires is in the in-cab fuse panel. It's not important so I'm waiting to get a service manual to identify the wire. I may do it sooner though, in any case I'll post the details once done.

vince4

Your comments about the Edelbrocks with a load are very interesting. What type of load did you have? Do you feel that you drove enough with a heavy load to really evaluate both sets of shocks? I'm surprised to hear the stock ones were that weak since they were part of a firm ride option (Z71 or Z85) right?

Thanks for your input, it's invaluable information. You make me lean away from Ranchos toward Edelbrocks. I drive about 80% with no load and the rest with a camper so unloaded ride is quite important too.

obyone

No Z71 or Z85 for me. I had the stock setup with the 255/70R16 General tires. With those tires you could not get the Z85 HD suspension. Carrying load of about 1000# at least once a week, had a lot of bounce and rear sag. I had figured the Tenneco shocks were a POS cause the ride without a load was marginal at best. After switching to the Edlebrocks still had sagging rear end but the truck was more driveable with less bounce. The biggest area of improvement came with no load, especially when making turns, braking, and driving over potholes. Found truck to be very stable after the upgrade. A couple of months later, I noticed that the truck bottomed out going over speed bumps with no load...results were sagging rear springs. After dealer changed it out...not sure with which ones...carrying 1000# load levels truck out and ride is exceptional. If it weren't for the gas concerns I would consider leaving the weight in the back. Edelbrocks come with a 30 day money back guarantee. I guess that they want people to try them without worrying about getting stuck if they didn't like them. Have you also considered air adjustable springs for the times that you do carry the camper?

mt21713

The guy at Covert Country really redeemed himself the last few days. I think maybe I'm expecting a bit much as far as communication. This guy is incredibly busy! Anyway, he spent all of yesterday searching the state and found a truck for me. If all goes well, I'll have it Monday or Tuesday. I'm so excited!

I have a few more questions..

Floor Mats - I want to find a mat to go under the back seat that will extend from the back of the front seats to the back of the cab so that when the seat is flipped up the floor is wholly covered. Does such a mat exist?

Tires - I've noticed that some of you are immediately replacing your tires after purchase. I'm getting the P235/75R16 ALS WOL tires. What does the WOL stand for (I'm a tire dummy and will be first-time truck owner.. does it show?) Are these "Bad" tires?

Security - What about a security alarm or Lojack? Anyone have any recommendations?

That's all I can think of for now. Thanks!

mgdvhman

W hite
O utlined
L etters

I prefer:
B lack
S ide
W alls

- Tim

mt21713

Immediately though of something else after I hit Post.. figures..

Fog Lights - My truck doesn't come with them. Recommendations for aftermarket? Also, how do they tie in to the regular headlights? When they are installed at the factory is there a separate switch on the dash for the fog lights or what and how will it be if I get them installed after I get the truck?

Okay, I'll be quiet now and wait for you guys to answer..

Meredith

ryanbab

I GOT PICTURESSSSSSSS. Man this is a sweet truck. Hopefully ill be able to post them monday or tues if i figure out how to do it. The blue with black flares looks great. And the new sticker on blue looks good too.

WOOHOOOOOOO

Ryan

speedybird

Drove home yesterday with the new truck. TPW was 4/3 arrived at dealer on 4/13 and drove home with it on 4/14. '00 LT Ext. Cab, 4door, 4x4, Z71, 5.3L, 3.73, limited diff., Pewter.
I realize the Pewter is a little boring but living in Phoenix, AZ. the black is too hot.

Time to accessorize......

gnipper - door switch:
Someone showed me how to simply use a quarter to flip the door latch. It stops the dinging and turns the lights out. CAUTION- make sure you pull the door handle to release the latch before closing the door.

Randy

speedybird

After going through the manual a little bit, I am surprised at how cryptic things are to operate/reset. For example:

Lights:
Press dome light switch 4 times within 6 seconds to override DRL's / automatic lights.

Door Locks
Pull turn signal forward and hold. Turn key ON and OFF 2 times. Press lock switch twice and unlock twice. etc.. etc..

Oil change light reset
Turn ignition key to RUN, press and release accelerator pedal three times within five seconds....

Where is the secret handshake?
Randy

obyone

have you tried any of them? Sometimes they work...sometimes it takes more than one time...

loesch

Have a '99 LS 4x4 Z81, 5.3L, Std Cab, Long Bed, locking diff. From the very start, the engine service light would come on. 5 visits to dealer:
1. reset computer, 2. loose sensor wire, 3. replaced solenoid 4. replaced evap canister, 5. replaced gas tank. Have only 13K on the truck, have also had intermediate and lower stearing arms replaced, rear suspension bushings replaced, fuel pump makes high pitched whine, and hard shift from 2-3 accompanied with clunk. Wrote two certified letters to GM about 1 month apart according to MD lemon law. They never replied. I field complaint
with MD Attorney Generals office. They wrote GM several times with no reply. GM finally sends me a form letter that only says that they are concerned with a customer is unhappy. Att. Gen office fires off a 3rd letter to GM. GM finally replies to them with (you guessed it) the same form letter they sent to me. Am making arrangement to me with field rep to see if I can get a replacement. Friend bought same vehicle 6 mo latter (2000) and has had NO problems.

ran3

so much for bookmarks ran

northernbasser

Anyone...
I own a '99 Ext 1500 5.3L 3.73 Z71 that now has about 16k miles on it (26k Kms) and can recall this as being quite a hot topic late last year, but can't seem to find anything on it now. My truck has this problem (and has had since the fall). My dealer's solution has been to grease the springs, which I'm sure you can guess hasn't done anything except get grease all over the place. Can someone tell me what the TSB number for this problem is? I know people have spoken of getting their springs replaced with this TSB, but my dealer claims it doesn't exist.

Tim...
A neighbour has given me a bottle of the 3M Hand Glaze you have been talking about to buff out a few shallow scratches on my black truck. Once the truck is all cleaned up with the Hand Glaze, should I wax it as you mentioned the Glaze has little wax protection? Unlike your Olds, my truck lives outside.

Thanks,

Jon

mgdvhman

Yes.

The glaze will not take out severe scratches....but will enhance the look.

Use Meguires #26 yellow wax or something similar. Or use Something better like Malms. Up to you. #26 is readily available at many places.

- Tim

anonymous

thanks for the warning but i already know that
the fog light housings are made of plastic.
realizing that auto manf. are always on the
consrvative side when it comes to wattage on
items such as these, there must be a maximum that
the plastic can handle. since you know someone
that has hands on experience with this subject
maybe they can shed some light on the amount of
wattage these plstic housings can handle.

red

mgdvhman

But remember that whatever wax you use...the surface should be clean before waxing. Malms makes 2 polishes to use before wax...as well as Zaino has a similar system..

Or there are one step Cleaner/waxes...(yikes!)..that may do the job you want....but are usually pretty abrasive.

3M also has a product called Perfect It...which is hard to get off by hand...as it is designed for machine application.

I make no Claim that my system is the best...so it's all up to you....It works for me though

Good Luck

- Tim

rwagoner

You can remove duplicates when you accidentally "reload" them and get multiples. Click on the post number (your own are links) and select "scribble."

Richard

jaslo

Went to dealer today and looked at a 2000 z71 regular cab. It had about everything on it except power seats and fog lamps. It had about 5500 miles on it. The dealers lowest price was $23,400. Does that sound like a good price on a used truck.

z71bill

Go to another dealer and find out what the best price is on a new one. Then compare used VS new price. My guess is a new one will cost about $28,000.

clarkmcbrayer

I will have to check with him on the highest wattage he recommends. Will let you know.

gnipper

Well - wasn't thinking yesterday when I figured my MPG on the first tank. Most of that was driven after I upgraded the tires to 285's from the 245's delivered. Since the HPP III just started shipping I haven't recalibrated the speedo and thus I really drove further than I thought. So hopefully it will be a lot better than 12.6. I'll post it over in topic 1632 then.

vince4

I do have air bags for when I carry the camper. They are able to restore the normal ride height but don't do anything for the bounce. Actually it's not bad at all, just takes 2 cycles to damp out a bounce rather than the normal 1 with no load. So it feels a little floaty on the highway. And since it's a heavy 3/4 the empty handling is pretty tight. I know a better shock would help with the camper but I don't want a stiffer empty ride. It sounds like the Edelbrock can actually help with both. I'll likely give them a try.

vince4

The factory lights do have a separate switch. They can only come on when the headlights or parking lights are on. When you switch to high beams they turn off, then go back on when you switch back to low beams.

To add them in a factory configuration you have to tell the computer they are present. A friend got quotes from a few dealers to do this, I think it was close to $100. You're better off just wiring them separate anyway so you have full control. The factory lights are pretty weak so don't feel bad about going aftermarket. The only ones I know of are from PIAA. They combine a driving light and fog light into a factory size assembly. Really neat, except they cost over $300! Hella is a good brand, don't know if they make anything to fit.

obyone

good luck with Edelbrocks!! You may want to check these guys out for prices. Even after shipping cross country and over Pacific...they beat all the local dealers' prices:

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/

northernbasser

That's kind of what I figured. I used the hand glaze on a small corner of the tailgate to see how it would come up, and it looks great. These scratches are nothing deep - just what you'd expect on a year-old truck that lives outside where it snows.

Now if only someone could help me out with these damn leaf springs....

Thanks again,

Jon

meredith

For purposes of efficiency....

this topic is being "frozen." Please continue these discussions in Topic 1815 Chevy Silverado - Continued X. Thanks!

Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host