my first tank was 28 mpg but included a lot of in town driving, idiling while showing the new car to people and then a long interstate backup for construction in 100 degree heat. so getting 28 seemed pretty good. On the second tank I drove a lot of highway but I had 4 people in the car and luggage, did about 80 on the interstate and had the air cranked up. Got 35 mpg on that tank.
Did Idle Learn Sunday morning. Ambient temp was near 80 with no wind...../...but when fan did not come on for 10 minutes I closed hood and waited and waited. About 10-15 minutes later (nearer 15)....
So with a cold engine and air temp of 80, it took 20-25 minutes for fan to come on the first time, them 5 additional minutes for the 2nd cooling fan cycle. A total of 40-45 minutes which includes the extra 10 minutes at the end.
In the FIT get ready procedure the Honda tech is going to have to let that engine idle for quite a while.
The procedure you cited is the one bouncing around the net for the pliot, did anyone ever find out that it applys to the Fit? or is this just an expierement?
Yes, it took about 40 minutes total. I suspect that the fact that I had the the hood open for the first 10 minutes did not help engine warming, which is why I eventually closed hood. So, hopefully subtract 10 minutes if hood is closed for process.
Just did my end of week fill up after idle learn, so now have to go through a tank of gas before really knowing results (presuming no random variations due to driving style or trips). This will another week at least.
#395 of 438 2007 FIT Start Up Bulletin by bprenderson
for link to uploaded 2007 FIT procedure. [Thank You bprenderson for the upload.] This description is not as detailed or picky as the Pilot procedure, but it is essentially identical.
To cut and paste from the PDF doc:
36. Start the engine, and check for proper operation of the following items. • Audio functions, including the auxiliary audio input jack on Sport models • Horn • Front and rear wipers and washers • Exterior lights and turn signals • Interior lights • Power windows, locks, and mirrors • Seat belt, latch, and inertia lock operation on all belts • Accessory power socket
37. Do the idle learn procedure (the engine should be warmed up and idling from step 36, and the cooling fans should have already cycled twice): • Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. • Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.
:surprise: This tank really surprised me! :surprise:
I recently bought a few car accessories to help squeeze out the highest MPG possible. I got a foot-type tire pump and a digital tire pressure gauge. They are helping me more accurately keep my tire pressure up without the hassle of going to gas stations. I've been checking each week to make sure that all my tire pressures are 37.5 psi COLD.
Secondly, I also bought a Scangauge which lets me monitor the Fit's engine computer parameters and gives a real-time MPG readout like that in many luxury and hybrid vehicles. It's not cheap, but if I continue to see this huge improvement it will be worth it to me.
I've been adjusting my driving to better stay in the Fit's "sweet spot" for fuel efficiency. This car has a lot of automated systems that are at work and affect fuel economy (V-TEC, drive-by-wire throttle, Electric steering assist, cruise control, automatic transmission, etc.) but the driver can really impact gas mileage through throttle use, gear selection, and a/c use.
In this one week I've learned that:
City driving is a HUGE factor in dragging down your overall MPG on a tank, but you can improve it. This is the biggest thing I'm learning right now. [more later] Too much accelerator knocks down MPG and doesn't always necessarily make you go any faster. Under certain conditions, sometimes the Fit gets better MPG at 70 MPH than 65 MPH. At highway speeds it would be a bigger waste of gas to downshift to make a hill at 65 than to drive 70 and stay in 5th gear. As I learn my route better I can optimize this. Shifting too early wastes more gas if you need extra torque (for a hill or acceleration) than to stay in that gear at higher rpm's. A/C use can affect gas mileage by 2 to as much as 10 MPG! It's best to switch off or minimize running the a/c when the engine is under more load (during acceleration, going uphill, or carrying more passengers/cargo than normal). I've been manually switching off the a/c for a few minutes during a long uphill stretch, then switching it back on when the road flattens out.
Anyway, now I feel like the Fit was such a perfect choice for me. I kept wondering if I should have bought the Yaris for that 2 extra MPG, but now that difference is negligible.
Blue Fit Sport m/t city/hwy mix: 75%/25% highway speeds: 65 to 70 MPH max
I know that the Manual says a 10.5 gallon tank but I have noticed something unusual. If I keep carefully squeezing in fuel after the pump kicks off I can get in almost another 3 gallons of gas. This has comfortably increased my range on the Sport AT model to 450 or more miles. I figure with the tank up front there is a lot of volume in the lines from the filler to the tank. It's nice to not have to stop so often but you have to be careful not to let it overflow.
Thanks for your observations. I have noticed your first comment (about city driving) and last comment (about A/C) the most...I haven't even really thought about the others yet. I filled up yesterday and received 35.5 mpg with about 50-60% highway driving at 65-80 mph and the rest a combination of city, winding backroads, and stop/go traffic. I always think I have more highway driving since my total miles is mostly from my commute, but then I realize how much of that involves just sitting in traffic!
Today I did the same long-distance, mostly highway trip that I did with my record tank of 41.7 mpg. This time I only received 41.2 mpg. Of course, I use the word "only" very lightly since I am quite happy, but I was trying to beat my record tank. It will be nice when the weather starts to cool down so I don't have to use A/C so much.
My total average miles per gallon so far is 34.2 mpg with my base 5-speed manual.
Anyway, I also will gladly admit I love this car! I think you made the right choice over the Yaris.
There are right ways and wrong ways of doing the procedure. Go to page 19 article 360 and you will see how all this developed from an off hand idea, to someone finding a way to get the FIT Service bulletin, To people actually doing it. We are waiting for results. Hopefully from many.
Pretty amazing for folks that don't even know each other, but with a common cause. Kip
I got 25 - 27 miles for my first five tanks. Then I did an idle learn and my mileage jumped to 31.5 - 36 mpg. All my mileage is with 100% air as I live in Texas. I feel the ones getting low mileage numbers are because a lot of dealers are not doing a long enough idle in. It took me 40 minutes from a cold engine on a hot Texas morning before I had two cooling fan kick ins and then an additional 10 minutes. I feel if the Fit owners showing low MPG figures would do an idle learn, they mileage would greatly improve, as mine has. The dealers don't realize this.
I have a Sport AT. I only got 25 - 27 mpg for my first five tanks. Then I did an idle learn. It took 40 minutes. The dealers are not doing a long enough idle learn. My mpg immediately jumped to 32 - 36 mpg. the 36 was about 40% city driving. This is with 100% air as I live in Texas. I think I will get 40mpg in straight Interstate driving. Do an idle learn and let it idle at least 40 minutes. Hopefully, you will get the same dramatic improvement I did. Most dealers don't understand this. My mileage should improve even more as my car breaks in.
medman..I wouldn't fill the tank to the top! I was doing that and I suddenly got a check engine light. I had to open the gas cap and then retighten down 5-8 clicks. This apparently released the gas vapor pressure. Took two startups before the check engine light went off. I was also getting good mileage range until that happened. There are several posts about that problem for both the Civic and FIT. This may not be an issue if you live in a cool climate. I'm in Houston and had the problem.
I started the car and turned off all acessories. Then I disconnected my battery for five minutes(negative side). Then took 40 minutes to cycle through the two cooling fan starts and the 10 minutes required. I then turned the car off for one minute, restarted and reset the radio. You must do this on a cold engine. I would highly recommend at least the 40 minutes of idle time. Many dealers are not givng enough time. Hopefully, you will have the same mileage improvement I had.
It is about the same percentage results we saw over on the Pilot Forums.
As you said, the dealer "get ready" folks may not be letting it idle from cold for 40 minutes, with no accessories on.
Very doubtful unless someone there has stressed that they go out and install the fuse and start the car and let it idle for an hour before they do anything to it.
The engine started and allowed to warm up until the 2nd cooling fan cycle, then an additional 10 minutes.
The Fit ILP indicates the technician is doing all types of electrical functions, while the engine is warming up (step 36), and letting it idle an additional 10 minutes after the 2nd fan cycle.
I suppose we have to do what we think will work.
For me personally, I know the Pilot owners had great success starting with a cold engine.
Disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes.
With all accessories turned off, re connecting the battery, starting the engine and letting idle for a full 10 minutes after the 2nd fan cycle.
That is what ashtex did and it seems to have worked. --------------- hqly2001
You are bogging yourself down with needless worry.
Try this: Start the car and be sure all accessories are off.
Turn off the ignition switch.
Loosen (don't remove) the screw on the black battery cable and take the cable off the battery for a couple of minutes.
Put the cable back on the battery.
Start the car and find something to do for an hour. Unless the ambient temperature is near freezing the hour of idling should be enough time for everything to happen as it should. ------------------- As a side note: My 4400# 4WD Automatic Pilot with 240 HP V6 will generally get 27+ MPG on the road if driven the speed limit. We have gotten right at 30 mpg with a constant 60 mph.
Our 4WD auto CR-V Gets 30+ mpg on the road. It is 1000 lbs heavier than the Fit, has a much larger engine and 50+ more horse power.
To my thinking the FIT with its better aerodynamics, lighter weight, and smaller engine should get a lot better mileage than my Pilot or CR-V.
I did the ILP on both cars exactly as ashtex did.
It helped the Pilot by about 3 MPG across the board . Don't know what it did for the CR-V. I did ILP the first day we had it home.
FIT manual Step 36 started with a cold engine. Then they had service tech doing minor checks while engine warmed up. Nothing major which would add big electrical load and therefore engine load. Then they presumed that engine would be warm enough for 10 idle learn. (Based on observation of upto 30 minutes for 2 fan cycles, this assumption in the manual in probably too short.) Then let idle for 10 minutes.
That is sort of same as Pilot.
Later comment (#453) to just turn stuff off, disconnect/reconnect negative lead, start, and let idle for an hour is perfectly simple and valid. You will get your 2 fan cycles plus at least 10 minutes. Otherwise, stand around and wait for fan cycles and add 10 minutes. I would (myself) do this with hood closed so engine warms up faster.
I tried using a wrench to remove the negative(black) bolt so that i can do the idle learn but i can't fit the head in there.. theres so little space for the head to go in for a grip.. how are u guys removing the bolt to the batery? i've tried pliers and could not get a grip at all.. help!!
If you are having trouble removing a battery cable, PLEASE take it to a dealer and have them do the ILP for you.
This is the start of a very sad story otherwise methinks...
I'm not trying to be mean, but a lot of people would be on the floor laughing about some of the stories/experiences I've had with customers over 7 years
yes it burns cleaner but how much energy does it take to produce it vs producing gas...I saw one article that said you use up more energy producing Ethanol than what you produce. I believe it was Popular Science or Car and Driver that had that statistic. Same thing with people who want electric cars...well where does that electricity come from...
My brother purchased a Toyota Yaris one week ago. It is the Yaris S Sedan with an automatic. He had 6 miles on it when he picked it up. Today, I drove with him and noticed he had 411 miles on the car, with 3 bars on the fuel gage (it is an electric fuel gage with bars) which equals less than a quarter tank. I asked him if he had put any gas in the car since he picked it up, he had not! This means he is getting over 40 mpg! This made me second guess my Honda Fit purchase, as I am averaging 29-31 mpg (with a stick).
What is so funny? I probably don;t have the correct type of wrench to remove the battery. No one mentioned anything about using a correct wrench with a skinny enough head to get between the bolt and metal connector..
I'm determine to disconnect it and witht he right tools i will!
As I recall, the battery nut is a 10mm. A 10mm deep well socket is ideal (what I used). A 10mm box would work OK. A small crescent wrench (6") may work but is not as good as space is a bit tight(never is as good as the correct wrench). A pliers or vice grips should never meet a nut, as it will generally just bugger it up while doing its job. So, if you do not have a proper metric wrench set (sockets and box wrenches), you should either go to Sears and buy a reasonable Craftsman set (lifetime warranty) [or some other good type, before someone disagrees with my choice of tools] or let dealer do work. Every foreign car, and more than a few US cars, deserve a good metric tool set.
the 10% EtOH is used as an "oxidant" instead of MTBE (carcinogenic) which was used instead of lead (pollutant). Essentially, the ethanol brings the octane rating up to the desired level (87-91) so that combustion is more complete an the engine doesn't knock. At a max concentration of 10%, this ethanol usage isn't enough to make much of an environmental or economic difference. The reason it reduces your gas mileage has to do with the concept of "energy density". Per unit volume (liter or gallon), the ethanol has less chemical energy than gasoline. Therefore to go a mile, or to yield a given amount of energy, it will take a larger volume of ethanol than it would gasoline.
I just finished the Ilde Learn tonight. Will be doing a long drive on Wed so hopefully I will see some improvement in my mpg. I am not satisfied so far only one tank has reasonable mpg. After two weeks I have over 1k miles. MPG so far is: 25.8, 34.7, 30.9, 28.4
As you all know the Fit Sport comes standard with a 15' Alloy wheels and take a P195/55 R15 tire. Honda also provides an alternate choice of a 16' Alloy wheel with a P205/45 R16 tire.
Now for the questions: 1) Is there a difference in the gas mileage of the 15' versus the 16' wheel? If so what is it?
2) Does the switch from one tire size to the other require a modification in the computer to acknowledge the change and compensate correctly?
I did mine saturday morning and it took about 30 minutes. Filled it up with gas and will wait for results. I will also "pump up my tires" but after I see what the idle learn procedure has done.
I have passed this problem/solution onto the dealer who sold me the car and they have had complaints about fit milage, maby this will help. They clain to follow the outlined procedure but who knows. The lowest paid person at the dealership is probably doing the breakin procedure for these cars, so you get what you pay for.
On another note, Anyone else having problems with the lower pannels on the fit sport always hitting the road on driveway turnins and speed bumps?
You are right, I am sure that they have the least qualified person doing this and I know that my Fit rolled off the truck at about 11am and they wanted it off the lot because it was the last day of the month. I had only a limited time to go do all the paperwork etc. so they were rushing trying to get the car ready and I am sure that doing a long Idle Learn proceedure would not have been in the cards. I also wonder about the differences between the proceedure for the Pilot and the Fit...seems they tried to make the Fit proceedure go faster...does faster mean better?
I have a base manual with over 4300 miles. In the past 3 months, my lowest mpg was 35, max 37.5. My tires are at 40 pounds cold. I mainly commute, 80 percent freeway, mostly with ac on. I'm sure if I had pure highway driving, keeping below 80 mph, I'd get 40 mpg. But I have seen better results posted here.
#395 of 438 2007 FIT Start Up Bulletin by bprenderson
for link to uploaded 2007 FIT procedure. [Thank You bprenderson for the upload.] This description is not as detailed or picky as the Pilot procedure, but it is essentially identical.
To cut and paste from the PDF doc:
36. Start the engine, and check for proper operation of the following items. • Audio functions, including the auxiliary audio input jack on Sport models • Horn • Front and rear wipers and washers • Exterior lights and turn signals • Interior lights • Power windows, locks, and mirrors • Seat belt, latch, and inertia lock operation on all belts • Accessory power socket
37. Do the idle learn procedure (the engine should be warmed up and idling from step 36, and the cooling fans should have already cycled twice): • Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are off. • Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes.
38.
Just to be clear, this procedure doesn't mention disconnecting the negative battery cable. Is disconnecting the negative battery cable necassary? Thanks.
The idea of disconnecting the negative battery cable first, is to get your Fit to forget what it already thinks it knows.
I redid mine last night, and it took a good 30 minutes for the fan to come on the first time. After that, the subsequent cycles were much closer together. The entire process took about 50 minutes, if you include the downtime for having the battery disconnected.
What was interesting to watch, was the tachometer during the first 15 minutes... it very slowly dropped, until it felt like the car was not running quite as smoothly (not to the point of being rough, mind you). At that point, the tach went up and down ever so slightly, as it appeared that the computer was trying to find the lowest rpm it could run at, while still keeping the smooth "purr" going.
Just make sure you have your radio security code ready to enter, when you are done.
Thanks! As far as cleaner emissions, IMHO, I'll leave that to the car manufacturers. The Fit is already a ULEV rated car right? I have a problem with paying more $$$ for gas and getting lower mpg results. :confuse:
I agree. I earlier told about my experience with the idle learn in this forum. I feel you must first disconnect the battery. My total idle time was 45 minutes. My mileage greatly improved after the idel learn. My last tank was 38.4 mpg with mostly Interstate drivng at 80(slow lane in Texas) with the air on. The most I ever got before my idle learn was 27.3. I highly recommend doing an idle learn if you are getting poor mileage. Make sure you do it for 45 - 50 minutes.
This car weighs a whole lot more than your '86 SI, but without a whole lot more power. The '86 equivalent is the Civic DX hatchback.
Now if they could give the Fit an engine that spins up higher and makes another 25 hp, and then did some 16" rims and lowered it a bit, and gave it IRS, all of which would instantly mandate that it be a very low-volume niche car selling for at least $2000 more than the Sport, that would just about be the equivalent of your SI! :-)
And SHEESH! Do I ever wish they would do just that. They are doing a Civic SI sedan for a projected volume of just 5000 per year. Add in the coupes with the same mechanicals, and that is 20K per year. I bet they could sell at least half that many Fit SIs as I just described it. They could make a couple of high-profit items optional to further boost the bottom line, like NAV and leather or something. An optional LSD would be nice....
Anyway, back to reality for me! :-(
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Comments
improved from 28 max.. hope to improve even more next time..
mine is msotly all hwy.. without traffic..
i just want 33-35mpg on hwy..
So with a cold engine and air temp of 80, it took 20-25 minutes for fan to come on the first time, them 5 additional minutes for the 2nd cooling fan cycle. A total of 40-45 minutes which includes the extra 10 minutes at the end.
In the FIT get ready procedure the Honda tech is going to have to let that engine idle for quite a while.
Kip
Just did my end of week fill up after idle learn, so now have to go through a tank of gas before really knowing results (presuming no random variations due to driving style or trips). This will another week at least.
:-)
#395 of 438 2007 FIT Start Up Bulletin by bprenderson
for link to uploaded 2007 FIT procedure. [Thank You bprenderson for the upload.] This description is not as detailed or picky as the Pilot procedure, but it is essentially identical.
To cut and paste from the PDF doc:
36. Start the engine, and check for proper operation of
the following items.
• Audio functions, including the auxiliary audio
input jack on Sport models
• Horn
• Front and rear wipers and washers
• Exterior lights and turn signals
• Interior lights
• Power windows, locks, and mirrors
• Seat belt, latch, and inertia lock operation on all
belts
• Accessory power socket
37. Do the idle learn procedure (the engine should be
warmed up and idling from step 36, and the cooling
fans should have already cycled twice):
• Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit,
defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
• Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all
electrical items off) for 10 minutes.
38.
I recently bought a few car accessories to help squeeze out the highest MPG possible. I got a foot-type tire pump and a digital tire pressure gauge. They are helping me more accurately keep my tire pressure up without the hassle of going to gas stations. I've been checking each week to make sure that all my tire pressures are 37.5 psi COLD.
Secondly, I also bought a Scangauge which lets me monitor the Fit's engine computer parameters and gives a real-time MPG readout like that in many luxury and hybrid vehicles. It's not cheap, but if I continue to see this huge improvement it will be worth it to me.
I've been adjusting my driving to better stay in the Fit's "sweet spot" for fuel efficiency. This car has a lot of automated systems that are at work and affect fuel economy (V-TEC, drive-by-wire throttle, Electric steering assist, cruise control, automatic transmission, etc.) but the driver can really impact gas mileage through throttle use, gear selection, and a/c use.
In this one week I've learned that:
City driving is a HUGE factor in dragging down your overall MPG on a tank, but you can improve it. This is the biggest thing I'm learning right now. [more later]
Too much accelerator knocks down MPG and doesn't always necessarily make you go any faster.
Under certain conditions, sometimes the Fit gets better MPG at 70 MPH than 65 MPH. At highway speeds it would be a bigger waste of gas to downshift to make a hill at 65 than to drive 70 and stay in 5th gear. As I learn my route better I can optimize this.
Shifting too early wastes more gas if you need extra torque (for a hill or acceleration) than to stay in that gear at higher rpm's.
A/C use can affect gas mileage by 2 to as much as 10 MPG! It's best to switch off or minimize running the a/c when the engine is under more load (during acceleration, going uphill, or carrying more passengers/cargo than normal). I've been manually switching off the a/c for a few minutes during a long uphill stretch, then switching it back on when the road flattens out.
Anyway, now I feel like the Fit was such a perfect choice for me. I kept wondering if I should have bought the Yaris for that 2 extra MPG, but now that difference is negligible.
Blue Fit Sport m/t
city/hwy mix: 75%/25%
highway speeds: 65 to 70 MPH max
I love this car!
It's nice to not have to stop so often but you have to be careful not to let it overflow.
I filled up yesterday and received 35.5 mpg with about 50-60% highway driving at 65-80 mph and the rest a combination of city, winding backroads, and stop/go traffic. I always think I have more highway driving since my total miles is mostly from my commute, but then I realize how much of that involves just sitting in traffic!
Today I did the same long-distance, mostly highway trip that I did with my record tank of 41.7 mpg. This time I only received 41.2 mpg. Of course, I use the word "only" very lightly since I am quite happy, but I was trying to beat my record tank.
It will be nice when the weather starts to cool down so I don't have to use A/C so much.
My total average miles per gallon so far is 34.2 mpg with my base 5-speed manual.
Anyway, I also will gladly admit I love this car! I think you made the right choice over the Yaris.
It applies to the Fit as well as the Pilot.
There are right ways and wrong ways of doing the procedure.
Go to page 19 article 360 and you will see how all this developed from an off hand idea, to someone finding a way to get the FIT Service bulletin, To people actually doing it. We are waiting for results. Hopefully from many.
Pretty amazing for folks that don't even know each other, but with a common cause.
Kip
Then took 40 minutes to cycle through the two cooling fan starts and the 10 minutes required. I then turned the car off for one minute, restarted and reset the radio. You must do this on a cold engine. I would highly recommend at least the 40 minutes of idle time. Many dealers are not givng enough time. Hopefully, you will have the same mileage improvement I had.
should one be careful about touching the metal part of the negative cable when disconnecting the cable?
it looks like there's a screw does it fall easily once u've unscrewed it?
It is about the same percentage results we saw over on the Pilot Forums.
As you said, the dealer "get ready" folks may not be letting it idle from cold for 40 minutes, with no accessories on.
Very doubtful unless someone there has stressed that they go out and install the fuse and start the car and let it idle for an hour before they do anything to it.
Congratulations,
Kip
That all electrical items be turned off.
The engine started and allowed to warm up until the 2nd cooling fan cycle, then an additional 10 minutes.
The Fit ILP indicates the technician is doing all types of electrical functions, while the engine is warming up (step 36), and letting it idle an additional 10 minutes after the 2nd fan cycle.
I suppose we have to do what we think will work.
For me personally, I know the Pilot owners had great success starting with a cold engine.
Disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes.
With all accessories turned off, re connecting the battery, starting the engine and letting idle for a full 10 minutes after the 2nd fan cycle.
That is what ashtex did and it seems to have worked.
---------------
hqly2001
You are bogging yourself down with needless worry.
Try this: Start the car and be sure all accessories are off.
Turn off the ignition switch.
Loosen (don't remove) the screw on the black battery cable and take the cable off the battery for a couple of minutes.
Put the cable back on the battery.
Start the car and find something to do for an hour. Unless the ambient temperature is near freezing the hour of idling should be enough time for everything to happen as it should.
-------------------
As a side note:
My 4400# 4WD Automatic Pilot with 240 HP V6 will generally get 27+ MPG on the road if driven the speed limit. We have gotten right at 30 mpg with a constant 60 mph.
Our 4WD auto CR-V Gets 30+ mpg on the road. It is 1000 lbs heavier than the Fit, has a much larger engine and 50+ more horse power.
To my thinking the FIT with its better aerodynamics, lighter weight, and smaller engine should get a lot better mileage than my Pilot or CR-V.
I did the ILP on both cars exactly as ashtex did.
It helped the Pilot by about 3 MPG across the board . Don't know what it did for the CR-V. I did ILP the first day we had it home.
Kip
That is sort of same as Pilot.
Later comment (#453) to just turn stuff off, disconnect/reconnect negative lead, start, and let idle for an hour is perfectly simple and valid. You will get your 2 fan cycles plus at least 10 minutes. Otherwise, stand around and wait for fan cycles and add 10 minutes. I would (myself) do this with hood closed so engine warms up faster.
You've got me worried!
This is the start of a very sad story otherwise methinks...
I'm not trying to be mean, but a lot of people would be on the floor laughing about some of the stories/experiences I've had with customers over 7 years
Be careful.
T
Did highway driving this weekend and a fill up from NJ, my avg was 39.6mpg.
Coming back and getting gas from VA which contains 10% Ethanol, my avg went down to 35.5mpg.
If I used 10% Ethanol during my normal work commute, I would assume my mileage would drop down to 31mpg. Ouch.
I probably don;t have the correct type of wrench to remove the battery. No one mentioned anything about using a correct wrench with a skinny enough head to get between the bolt and metal connector..
I'm determine to disconnect it and witht he right tools i will!
Wait until he fills it himself, and runs another tank through it, then you'll have a better, more accurate idea of the fuel mileage.
Now for the questions:
1) Is there a difference in the gas mileage of the 15' versus the 16' wheel? If so what is it?
2) Does the switch from one tire size to the other require a modification in the computer to acknowledge the change and compensate correctly?
I have passed this problem/solution onto the dealer who sold me the car and they have had complaints about fit milage, maby this will help. They clain to follow the outlined procedure but who knows. The lowest paid person at the dealership is probably doing the breakin procedure for these cars, so you get what you pay for.
On another note, Anyone else having problems with the lower pannels on the fit sport always hitting the road on driveway turnins and speed bumps?
for link to uploaded 2007 FIT procedure. [Thank You bprenderson for the upload.] This description is not as detailed or picky as the Pilot procedure, but it is essentially identical.
To cut and paste from the PDF doc:
36. Start the engine, and check for proper operation of
the following items.
• Audio functions, including the auxiliary audio
input jack on Sport models
• Horn
• Front and rear wipers and washers
• Exterior lights and turn signals
• Interior lights
• Power windows, locks, and mirrors
• Seat belt, latch, and inertia lock operation on all
belts
• Accessory power socket
37. Do the idle learn procedure (the engine should be
warmed up and idling from step 36, and the cooling
fans should have already cycled twice):
• Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit,
defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
• Let the engine idle (throttle closed and all
electrical items off) for 10 minutes.
38.
Just to be clear, this procedure doesn't mention disconnecting the negative battery cable. Is disconnecting the negative battery cable necassary? Thanks.
I redid mine last night, and it took a good 30 minutes for the fan to come on the first time. After that, the subsequent cycles were much closer together. The entire process took about 50 minutes, if you include the downtime for having the battery disconnected.
What was interesting to watch, was the tachometer during the first 15 minutes... it very slowly dropped, until it felt like the car was not running quite as smoothly (not to the point of being rough, mind you). At that point, the tach went up and down ever so slightly, as it appeared that the computer was trying to find the lowest rpm it could run at, while still keeping the smooth "purr" going.
Just make sure you have your radio security code ready to enter, when you are done.
It is only LEV, but I agree with you completely on the last statement.
Now if they could give the Fit an engine that spins up higher and makes another 25 hp, and then did some 16" rims and lowered it a bit, and gave it IRS, all of which would instantly mandate that it be a very low-volume niche car selling for at least $2000 more than the Sport, that would just about be the equivalent of your SI! :-)
And SHEESH! Do I ever wish they would do just that. They are doing a Civic SI sedan for a projected volume of just 5000 per year. Add in the coupes with the same mechanicals, and that is 20K per year. I bet they could sell at least half that many Fit SIs as I just described it. They could make a couple of high-profit items optional to further boost the bottom line, like NAV and leather or something. An optional LSD would be nice....
Anyway, back to reality for me! :-(
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)