Ford Ranger Engine questions
I have a '93 ford ranger 3.0 v6.I noticed a black knob about 1" dia that is located on what I think is a sensor on the drivers side of intake manifold.The whole sensor(?) assembly has a black plastic cover over it and the knob is on the left lower side toward the engine.Anyone know what this may be?
Thank you
Thank you
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It sometimes idles roughly and sometimes perfectly but in either instance when I go to accelerate it tries to choke out and sometimes does. I pushed in the valve with my finger where you apply a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure and fuel came out flying.
I have recently replaced the air filter and rear O2 sensor. I went to replace the fuel filter but I cannot get it off.
There are no engine warning lights on.
I placed my hand over the tail pipe and the temperature is normal.
Thanks!
Chuck
Thanks for the input. I will replace it this evening.
One question, in my Haynes manual it says to be sure to line up the slot in the TPS with the blade on the throttle shaft. This seems pretty simple but is there a way to screw this up?
Thanks again!
Chuck
You'd have work really hard to screw it up........
Ive cleaned out everything,changed the maf sensor
changed wires,plugs,etc.
noise is still there
how can I get rid of the noise
4.0 v6
Clean the MAF sensors with electrical spray cleaner. This might be a part of ping also, but loose intake is usual problem.
Jim
WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE ORIGNIALS?? INSTALL THE OLD DIST. AGAIN AND SEE IF IT RUNS GOOD. IF NOT, THEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT DUE TO THE NEW DIST AND EITHER IS RELATED TO THE FUEL PUMP OR A SEPARATE, NEW PROBLEM. IF IT DOES RUN GOOD, YOU KNOW THAT THE PROBLEM IS IN THE NEW ONE. DID YOU GET A NEW CAP AND ROTOR?? CHECK THOSE FOR ARCING AS WELL. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD BRAND LIKE FOMOCO OR MOTORCRAFT OR BORG-WARNER.
IF THE PROBLEM DOES NOT CHANGE, INSTALL THE OLD FUEL PUMP AND THE OLD DIST, WHICH IS BEFORE THIS PROBLEM STARTED, IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY. SAME PROCESS HERE AS WELL.
IF NEITHER OF THOSE MAKE A DIFFERENCE, THEN YOU KNOW YOU HAVE A NEW PROBLEM WHICH IS WHY IT IS HARD TO REPLACE MULTIPLE SYSTEM COMPONENTS AT ONE TIME. IF THIS IS THE CASE, REINSTALL YOUR NEW COMPONENTS AND CHECK THE IGNITION MODULE,COIL, WIRES AND ECM. SOMETHING IS GETTING HOT AND ARCING OUT OR GROUNDING FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT THROUGH THE CIRCUIT SOMEHOW. THE IGN MODULE IS EITHER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DIST, INSIDE OF THE HOUSING ON THE BASEPLATE, OR ON THE D/S BACK FIREWALL. SHOULD BE GREY OR BLACK, DEPENDING ON MODEL. MOST PARTS STORES CAN TEST THEM ON A STAND-ALONE BASIS WITH THEM OUT OF THE VEHICLE. IF THAT IS NOT IT, CHECK THE COIL FOR RESISTANCE ON THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SIDE. THIS IS ALSO A COMMON PROBLEM.
GET A MANUAL AND GO THROUGH THE FLOW CHART DIAGNOISTICS. WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND ALLDATA.COM AND PAY THE FEE FOR THE LIFETIME USE OF THAT VEHICLE'S DATA. I THINK IT'S $44 OR CLOSE TO IT. WELL WORTH THE MONEY, AND YOU CAN TEACH YOURSELF AN AWFUL LOT THROUGH THEIR DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS. IF NONE OF THIS HELPS, REPOST AND I WILL GET BACK TO YOU. GOTTA RUN SINCE I HAVE A MONSTER TRUCK SHOW TO ANNOUNCE IN OHIO. IT MAY TAKE ME A COUPLE DAYS TO GET BACK TO YOU. THANKS. KEVIN. :shades:
The distributor is the original and was rusted and worn out. I changed the rotor and the cap. The idling revs went from 3/400 to 8/900. The pump was worn out and I did change them one at a time. There was aproblem awhile ago when mu niece owned it that the engine heat sensor said after a moment or too the engine was overheated and it stopped. Why then does this monster start then stall after a very little while and then refuse to start for 5 minutes and then the cycle can be repeated
Mike
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85#Use_in_standard_engines
Call ford and make sure you even have one to look for. You most likely do, but some variations of the 3.0l did not. So, with that in mind............
It is either on the bottom of the driver's side block, inside of the timing cover setup, or if you're really lucky, it may actually be buried underneath the lower intake manifold! Remember, it has to be in a location where it will not be interfered with by ambient noises or vibration, so it's location is not usually easy to get at on a Ford. These are the most common locations. I don't remember exactly where yours is, but why are you needing to test the knock sensor??? What makes you suspect it as a problem?? Just curious to find out, since most manuals and other people like to point to them as a problem when timing is retarded, etc, when in fact, 99% of the time, it hears or feels something that you cannot and makes an adjustment so that you do not prematurely blow your motor up. 99% of the time, they work fine. Have you gone to alldata.com and gone through the diagnosis flow charts yet?? might be well worth your time to look into. Make sure you have one and do a flowchart rundown to make sure you are on the right track. There are 3-6 things that you test for the same symptoms first, before the knock sensor is allowed as a candidate for the cause of failure. Cya.
Couple reasons. First, I’ve checked just about everything else and the truck runs great but pings like crazy under load on everything but Premium Gas. In my area Regular Gas is $216(pre-election price) and Premium is $255. It also bugs me because from what I’ve read no OBDII vehicle rated for regular gas should ping. The ECM should adjust timing if it gets feedback from the knock sensor.
To eliminate other possibilities, I used Autotap and found all sensors are reading normal. The front O2’s are fluctuating nicely and the back O2 reads clean. Short term fuel trim fluctuates between +.6 and -.8. I tested the EGR and its working OK. Vacuum is good. Engine temp is normal.
I know that something solid-state like a piezzo element in the knock sensor shouldn’t fail, but I’m running out of options. I also know this is a common problem with the 3.0, and I’d love to get my hands on at least one of the TSB’s Ford put out about it (Bulletin Numbers: (6321, 12782,14076, 13528, 14366, etc) but can’t find full write-ups, only references. I did however find something similar happening with Toyotas and someone traced it to a bad ground on the sensor’s shielded cable, i.e, the signal getting back to the ECM was too weak to register. So, I’d figured I’d give it a shot. I was hoping they’d be easier to get at.
Yes, very, very common problem with 3L Ranger motors, for years and years and years.
You have the problem. The only thing I've heard Ford doing about it, and I think it was for older Rangers tham yours, was replace the coil packs with ones that supposedly was 'hotter'. Or some such thing.
Can't you buy a subscription to 'Alldata' for one year for something like $20, and this gets you all the TSB's (except Honda doesn't give out theirs at all, and possibly some other manufactors. I think Alldata will have Ford's.)
There is also another thing that can be done. And I never remember the correct name for it. There is a SPUG or SPUNG or some such named 'connector' that can be 'pulled'. But what this does is retard the timing, which should reduce ping. Of course, retarding the timing also reduces power.....
Just bit the bullet and went for your plug . Bought an Alldat.com subscription.
At first Nothing .None of the tsb's (as listed) by the site below are shown at Alldata
http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/y-1998/d-RANGER
for ping problems e.g.,
http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/d-RANGER/y-1998/t-13528
Or
http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/d-RANGER/y-1998/t-12782
The list goes on- Bulletin Number’s: 15095, 6321, 14076, 14366, 0073, 00248
But then I found a real TSB Number 00-7-3. And it stated just what you said:
Replace Coil, if between a set of code numbers and then it also said replace the PCM
Ackkkk. That says to me a faulty PCM. i.e maybe it doesn’t HEAR the knock sensor.
Anyway, after weighing my options, (i.e., how long of paying for Premium gas would it take to pay back for a new PCM, coil and time spent fixing something on an 8 year old vehicle.) I’ll just go for the gas. I repeat Ackkkkk . :mad:
All in all, Thanks for your help. I got the right answers
But, I've read that this is exactly what some Ford service people have done when people complain of the 3L pinging - pulling the connector.
The motor has a design problem, has had it for years and years, and Ford does nothing about it. I've not heard of anyone actually having any damage from the pinging.
Yes I did check vacuum leaks, even cleaned the MAF filament as suggested at TheRangerStation.com. Very frustrating. I think this engine should be rated for a higher-octane fuel. I’m still going to try the timing light/ whack the engine with a wrench test- to see if the timing retards. From what I’ve read, the resonant frequency of the Piezzo element is about 15 KHz, about the same as hitting an engine with a wrench Besides at this point, it might be fun.
Thanks for your help. As I said above.. I got the right answers.
Saw it at
http://www.vehicletest.state.ma.us/newsletters/01MAY.pdf
I tried it on the 3.0L Ranger, and I could’ see any perceptible change. I didn’t know if the sensor was bad or if the test was bogus, so then I tried it on my 4.2L F150. Same thing. There may have been a small change but it was too small to be conclusive.
To make matter worse my wife came out and asked what I was doing. I told her and then showed her the posts I put here. The only thing she picked up on was a major Blooper in one of my posts. She’s still laughing.
Thank You
Vince
thanks
shayne
Thanks
As previous poster suggested, check the cat temps with a good non-contact thermometer.
Thanks
Any info would help.....Thanks