2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs



  • vizyovizyo Member Posts: 35
    Hello Kiawah. Thanks for your response. When the engine is cold, the tranmission runs smoothly; however after half an hour driving when I do "stop & go" at the intersections (stop signs), the tranmission shifts the second gear when the speed is 5~7mph and a weird noise comes from the transmission and the car shakes. It is like moving a manual transmission car directly with the second shift after full stop. I have recently taken the car to the service for the tranmission hesitation and got the computer reprogrammed, but it did help for jerking problem. I was wondering if this is a common problem with 2007 Camry LE 4cycl and there is a TSB issued for it? I searched it but could not find anything.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Your note is a little confusing......" I have recently taken the car to the service for the transmission hesitation and got the computer reprogrammed, but it DID help" or it DIDN'T help?

    There is a TSB for 2007 camry's, which reprograms the engine and transmission. The problem is what appears to be what I'd call 'lugging', at about 35-45 mph. The transmission gets into too high of a gear too soon. A simple reprogram of computer fixes it, I had it done with what seems like 18 months ago and it's been fine ever since. I've never heard of a 5-7 mph problem.

    When you experience this problem, why don't you try shifting using the gearshifter and run the gears out higher, to see if that is anyway related.

    Can't imagine what the weird noise you are hearing from the transmission, did it make the weird noise while at the dealership for reprogramming?
  • patrickc1patrickc1 Member Posts: 1
    fyi to all
    Complaint. Power Cerritos CA Location.
    Please forward this email to the appropriate department.
    I've always loved my Toyota Vehicles-Sienna, Pre-runner and Camry.
    I brought in my vehicle a 2007 V6 Camry SE for engine vibration, engine loss of power-symptoms of misfire.
    When you are at a complete stop It feels like the engine is going to shut down as the car body and engine shakes.
    Note that this only symptom only occurs when I'm on the freeway at the speeds of 65mph and over.

    This incident occurred once before upon arriving on a trip to Las Vegas. I took it straight to the Toyota Dealership
    for help. I paid $168 to a diagnostic check and the Technician told me that it was caused by dirty fuel and that
    the vehicle was running O.K. now. The Tech. also mentioned that the dirty fuel probably burned off as I exited the
    freeway because there was no longer any hesitation or engine vibration on the vehicle.

    The same problem occurred this week on Monday 7/06/09 at about 230pm.
    I brought in my to Power Toyota of Cerritos immediately exiting the freeway.
    I explained the problem and history of my vehicle to the service Tech.
    The next day I received a phone call advising me that an alignment and wheel balancing was
    needed and it would cost me over $300. I was very disappointed with this diagnosis
    because obviously my wheels and tires does not have anything to do with the problems
    I've been having with the engine. I tried to explain in detail with the tech. that I cannot relate
    tire and wheel alignment problems with my engine nearly stalling on the road.
    And worst of all, the Technician sort of just gave me a brush off the shoulder saying
    "It's up to you and your decision all I can give you is an advice"
    I told him that I would call him back after I do some research online. This sounds like a
    recall issue because I've never owned a bad Toyota vehicle. Sure enough I Googled
    the key word "2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs" and found so much posting of
    owners with the same related problems. The site/link below is just one of the many sources I have.
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0c6927!keywords=allin%3Amsgtext%2- 0limit%3A.f0c6927%20engine%20vibration&count=20
    A service manager calls and leaves me a voice mail giving me the same recommendation-alignment and balancing.
    I return his call and leave him a voice mail asking him "how is a wheel alignment and balancing going
    to fix my engine problems?" The service tech. calls me back a few hours later saying that they are
    going to further look into this dianostic check on the engine. This is a Joke or what?
    1st Toyota at Las Vegas tells me it's due to dirty fuel and now Toyota of Cerritos is telling me that it's the wheels
    and tires causing this issue? I'm beginning to loose faith with Toyota's Tech's.
  • hislambhislamb Member Posts: 4
    No transmission problems but the shimmy is enough to make me not want to take it on the interstate.....much less on a trip. Horrible that I paid off and it sucks.
    Do you know anything about buy-backs? I would LOVE toyota to buy this back.
  • barroncbarronc Member Posts: 44
    I own a 2007 Camry XLE with the V6 and my car also jerks. This happens when I slow down to pull into a parking spot. As I pull in to park the transmission kicks into another gear and the car lurches ahead. For an elderly person like my mother this could be extremely dangerous. This will definately be my last Toyota. :mad:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    .....and the dealership has said what about this problem when you took it in before and showed the service advisor this problem ? This may be a very easy reprogramming of the computer. Most of the cars now a days, are all controlled by computers, that have many sensors feeding them information. Computer controls both engine and transmission. Could have one of a hundred sensors not working, could have a problem with the software brains, etc. These are all fixable, you should not be living with some problem.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    My 2007 camry v6 (65000mi) just coated a road in Westchester with 6 qts of very expensive 5w30 oil. I have read numerous posts about the defective oil hose on the v6's but have not seen anyone who has taken Toyota to court on what must be considered a recall situation and not a tsb!

    My toyota service manager suspiciously agreed to quickly tow my car to the dealer after the above incident. They are setting me up for the "its out of warranty" chorus; I am told that the warranty is 5yrs or 60,000 mi. I only missed by 5k.

    I fully intend to take the dealership to small claims court if the cost is not
    reimbursed. Please let me know what other actions you have taken to get
    reimbursement. Thanks. :sick:
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,709
    If it is only 5,000 out of warranty, just call the 800 number for Toyota in your owner's manual and nicely explain the situation. Toyota will most likely agree to cover it without any problems, and they will contact the dealer to give them the OK. I had to do this years ago with a seat belt release button that was sticking. It was about 3 months past the warranty, but they (calling the 800 number for Toyota in California) agreed to cover it without any problems. Good luck, please let us know how it goes. I bet you will be just fine. The dealership is not the problem here. Just call Toyota.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I don't think small claims will do you any good as the warranty is from Toyota. You will have to sue them as the dealer has no choice but to charge you if Toyota turns them down.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I've always wondered about this, having never sued anyone over my lifetime. What is the practical chance of recovering anything, given a published written warranty which clearly calls out what is warranted and for how long. Doesn't Toyota have a legal defense here, and if they do anything it's a concession?

    Seems to me if they say a particular thing is warranted for 36 months, and it's now 40 months, that the delivered what they were legally required to do. Regardless of the fact that we all think the part should never fail, last forever, and nothing ever need fixing........aren't they really legally only responsible for the warranty period?

    I'm not for or against Toyota or any manufacturer, just trying to understand how legally they could/should be accountable for something outside of the scope of the warranty, where they sold the product with a written warranty, and the consumer accepted the product and the terms of that warranty. It baffles me to think that I would have some right or implied warranty beyond that. Manufacturer good will would be nice, but legally obligated I didn't think so.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You are correct, the legal approach would mostly not work were it not for the fear of the publicity surrounding same, especially for a common/widespread failure or an obvious factory defect.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Problem with Toyota is they have deep pockets and most small claims courts allow the person being sued the right to move the suit up to regular court with juries etc. which means they use their lawyers that are being paid anyway against you who they know don't have a lawyer or if you hire one it will end up costing you more than the fix. One time I bought a new truck and this was back before the manufacturers seen the light or the $$$$ they could charge and anyway I installed my own radio. Well to make a long story short they shorted out the radio and then wanted me to send it in to be fixed with them paying but most likely I'd been without my radio for a couple months on a 2 week old truck. Well I made up a picket sign and about 10 min. of walking in front of the dealers he bought me a new radio as I told him I'd called the local TV station and they were going to send a crew by on the way back from another story.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    Thanks for reply. You are right about the legal aspects but dealers hate courtrooms and they have to bring a lawyer. The judge I dealt with in my case against a [non-permissible content removed] Honda dealer said that I didn't have to sue the manufacturer because the dealer is an agent. That may or may not be legally valid but I sure got my car fixed in a hurry. The judge gave the dealer a deadline!
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    I talked to a toyota mechanic (currently employed by a large dlr) who has fixed many of the leaking oil lines and he told me that this has be going on for several years. This is, in fact , the third time that Toyota has tried to stop the leaking line. He said that the rubber part used at first was destroyed by the vapors in the line (?) and that another material was used thereafter and that failed. Supposedly the repair on my car is the third and last. This certainly should be a recall. I have to start negotiating with the dealer and manuf. tommorrow. This is a $700 slam to Toyota customers. Thanks.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    It just amazes me that Toyota people are so shocked when something goes wrong with their cars. What do you think all those service bays at the dealer are for. They do more than change oil. And now that they are starting to sell as many a year as GM they are finding out the cars are far from perfect too. It's hard to mass produce that many cars in as short a time frame as customers demand without screw ups as GM found out in the 80's. Quality goes down hill just like Toyota is and GM who are selling less is going back up hill.
  • smarty666smarty666 Member Posts: 1,503
    I couldn't help but notice that several people have complained on here about vibration issues with their camry at high speeds and handling/steering problems with their car; I drive a 2008 TL that came with OEM Bridgestone Turanza EL400 tires; I had terrible problems as soon as I took the car off the lot with shimmy/vibrations through the steering wheel, gas/brake pedals, and seats doing anything over 50 mph and the faster I went the worse it got; also, I had problems with the car veering to the right and terrible handling in wet weather; I had all the tires balanced and a front-end alignment done by my acura dealers which didn't help any of the problems; I finally had to call Bridgestone and made a deal to have to top of a line Bridgestone serenity tires put on my car; once I had the serenity's put on all my vibration/handling problems stopped and I have been able to enjoy the car ever since

    I know that toyota uses OEM Bridgestone Turanza EL400s on the camry and after the problems I had you all might be having the same problems; it is not the car but the tires themselves; like Acura, Toyota will do nothing about the problem and you would have to contact bridgestone and take it to a bridgestone/firestone dealer; while there I found out that the serenity's were made because of all the problems/complaints people had on the EL400s; the Turanza EL400 were the worst tires I ever had and I consider them dangerous and unsafe; I was glad I got rid of them before winter weather came!!!!

    If at all possible the OEM Michelin Energy's that Toyota and Lexus put on the camry and ES350, while not a great tire are far better than the Turanza EL400s; hopefully Acura, Toyota, Lexus, and Nissan will get it eventually that these OEMs they are putting on their top selling vehicles are not good and will use better quality Michelins, goodyears, or yokies!!!
  • mjrnrmjrnr Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 Camry (55K) recently heard noise in the rear over slight bumps, sways left and right. Took it to the dealer and it was diagnosed for a broken trailing rod. I saw the rod and it was loose only but not broken. Dealer gave me $377.00 estimate + $90 for the wheel alignment. I never had to replace the trailing rod and I am not sure how this happened to a fairly new car.
    I like to shop for a better price but is it safe to drive the car? Is it going to mess up any thing?
    Does anyone know how extensive is the labor for replacing the rear trailing rod? Can one do it ?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You should NOT be driving that vehicle. The wheel is held in proper 3 dimensional position, by three points. A rod that holds the wheel in position front/back, A rod that holds in/out, and the strut which holds up/down. If any one of them isn't in place, you can have catastrophic accident. Hard to know what you mean by being 'loose' as opposed to 'broke', but it may be that a bushing has deteriorated. Could also be that the connecting bolt broke on one end of the rod, and it's currently only connected on one end. Effectively the wheel can collapse out from underneath the car, dropping the vehicle on the ground.

    Get it fixed immediately, and then you need to have it aligned.
  • awisniewskiawisniewski Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I own a 1998 Toyota Camry. With 150k miles on it, bought used at 102k miles. When I bought it there was noise from the front struts in the winter and I lived with it. I went to the dealer the other day to find out what it was. They said the strut cap ( strut mount?) are bad. Does that deem that the entire mount has to be replaced? As I understand there is the rubber in the mount that goes bad but could the bearing assembly be just fine? Is it possible to just replace the rubber, it seems like it would be less costly. Any other solution to this problem? If I had the funds I'd replace the entire setup but right now money is tight. Alex W
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I can't say specifically that your strut is safe or not, you'd need someone locally to look at it.

    However I will tell you, that a strut failure can be a catastrophic failure for you and your vehicle. The wheel is held in three dimensional alignment by three pieces. One rod holds the wheel front to back, one holds in to out, and the strut holds up and down. A failure in strut where it breaks loose, could cause a number of types of failures, including a bad case where the vehicle drops to the ground, jamming the tire in the wheel well, causing your vehicle to spin out of control....and either hit something you didn't plan to hit, or be hit by someone else.

    You should be on a path to get it fixed pronto.
  • mac666mac666 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, forum...my first post here...
    took my 2007 camry se v6 in to a local toy. dealer for a check engine light on along with vsc and traction control. The problem comes and goes with 2-3 day periods. and slightly different every time. At times,with above mentioned alarms ON it drives just fine, but sometimes, transmission starts acting up - jerking, down/up shifting suddenly, especially on inclines. Nothing specific that I notice that triggers the lights to come ON, I could be sitting in traffic, moving 5 mph and it would light up.
    First, I took it in with lights on they could not reproduce a problem and said that the car is totally fine, 3 days ago they finally got all the lights to come on and saw the intermittent nature of a problem.
    codes read:

    They say C-codes are ABS related???
    Does anyone here know what these codes mean?

    I say, it seems like it's an electronic problem- a computer is driving the tranny crazy...could be as simple as a bad cpu contacts somewhere....
    They say, they checked for it.

    They want to put in another cpu in (ECM) for a $1000 but they are not sure if it is going to cure the problem...As you might imagine, I don't have a $1K to spare for their uncertainty and unproffesionalism.
    Any advice???
    Any info on the codes?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666

    ....so much for 'unprofessionalism'

    You could try spending a couple hours reseating all of the connectors and contacts in the system......probably worth a try since it's soo expensive. Be sure to check the wheel sensors as well.
  • mac666mac666 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for a quick reply
    How hard is it to replace an ECM? does it have to be calibrated when installed?
    Or is it just a "plug and play" direct replacement?
    Can it be done at home? I really don't want to take it to a dealer again...it took the 2 days they charged me $170 just for looking at it and then, were not sure what the problem was, wanted another $120 for further diagnostics....

    Do you happen to have any info on other codes I listed above?
    Sorry, I am just so frustrated at this point..
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The dealership would have an intelligent tester that they plug in, which checks error codes, can clear them, and checks all of the different braking functions and sensors. If you buy the Toyota service manuals, the brake control chapter is about 480 pages worth.

    U0100 is "lost communication with ECM/PCM", which is the engine control and power control computer. Error codes are clearly pointing to computer control or communications between them.

    Other than reseating connectors, not sure what more you might be able to do here.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Trial and error...

    Remove and clean and burnish the battery terminal/posts and connections.

    If problem remains repalce the battery.

    Under $100 and if nothing else at least you have a NEW battery.
  • mac666mac666 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, i noticed, your c1201 code ref. is for an FJcruiser...
    are all cpu codes for toyota the same???
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Same thing in 2007 Camry....it's an ECM Circuit Malfunction.
  • sewcoolsuesewcoolsue Member Posts: 11
    I'm surprised that they're not offering to fix it for free.
    Although my problem was a bit different than yours (transmission jerking intermittently) they replaced my transmission gratis two times!! I still don't like the way it down shifts, but overall it's much better. Also, the service dept's initial fix was to change a part in the computer; that didn't work so they swapped out the transmission.
    All I can say is good luck, and ask them why they're not doing it at no charge to you.
  • mac666mac666 Member Posts: 4
    They say, it's 61k (1 K over the limit) on the odometer and they have no record of a problem occurring prior to the warranty expired, so they won't pay a dime and won't even sell extended warranty...
    I am not really sure what to do next....I really want to get rid of the car, but who in a right state of mind would buy it with a check engine light on...
    I guess, I could try calling corporate toyota again and try getting some warranty extension out of them, but they told me that it's the local dealership manager that would make a final decision on whether to pay for my problems or let me pay for them...I have already heard their answer to that one...
    Any sujjestions on who else I would call???
    any other ideas?
    Thanks for your help,
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H EdmundsAdministrator Posts: 11,132
    If you own a 2006 – 2010 Toyota Camry and live in the Los Angeles area, please contact [email protected] by August 12 if you’re interested in being contacted for more information on your vehicle ownership experience.


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  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hey, Alex.....I don't blame you for being skeptical about your dealer's competency......especially after the experience I had with mine.
    Go to the Service Manager...or sales manager, if you bought your car there....and tell them you want to see copies of all the TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) that apply to your model of Camry. (There are a couple that I had problems with relating to the ECM and automatic transmission, but I thought these were specific to the 4 cylinder model.......but you may have your own versions to deal with.)
    Don't take the risk yourself that the "fix" may or may not work; that IS the dealer's responsibility. If HE's not willing to take the chance, tell him you'd like the local Manufacturer's rep to accept it.
    Good luck.
  • wwhitworthwwhitworth Member Posts: 1
    My wife owns a 07 Camry and after only 1 week of use the complete transmission had to be replaced. Although Toyota replaced it, one would have to question the reliability the life of the vehicle. The dealer did nothing to encourage us to buy another Toyota. I am happy with another make and model.
  • mmogabmmogab Member Posts: 11
    I too had my transmission replaced on my 07 Camry. When the 07's came out there was around a 1-2% failure of total production and since it was so small, there was never a recall. Toyota will replace the transmission upon failure - just as they did yours. You shouldn't have any further issues with the transmission since you have a later production. If anything, maybe some programming after it sets in which the dealer will due free of charge. I am the original owner of my 07 and with persistance and communications with Toyota, I was able to have them give me a 7 year / 100,000 mile warranty with no deductibe due to my inconvenience. If your not the original owner it may be more challenging for you to get this but if your the original owner, you may look into this.
  • helpman230helpman230 Member Posts: 7
    THEIR DEFECTIVE TOYOTA CAMRY 2007 also contains a defective exterior oil line and oil line.

    Here are some of the scientific facts why your exterior oil line and oil line are failing.
    (1) When oil contacts rubber, the oil chemical composition will eat-away at the rubber or it will destroyed the rubber.
    (2) The rubber seals in automobile engine and also the rubber booth that covers the automobile front axle joint will be in contact constantly with oil and grease. Automobile companies will have to make these RUBBER HOSE, SEALS AND RUBBER BOOTH WITH SPECIAL MATERIALS. Honda, Toyota and some of these foreign car companies MANUFACTURE POOR QUALITY RUBBER HOSE, RUBBER SEALS AND RUBBER BOOTH FOR THEIR AUTOMOBILES, for example Toyota, Honda and BMW, I had known people that had own these automobiles and they had to replace their front axle because the front axle rubber booth had been RIPPED OR RIPPED OFF completely. The mileage on these cars were between 35000 miles to 65000. miles. General Motors have this rubber hose, seals and rubber booth technology. A 1989 Cadillac Sedan Deville twenty years old front wheel drive. The rubber booth on the front axle of this car looks like it is BRAND NEW with out any sign of aging and also the plug wires which looks BRAND NEW and was never replace. General Motors have this rubber technology.

    How do I decide what make and type of Auto Mobile To buy.

    To buy the correct automobile for your commuting or getting to work.
    (1)You must decide how many miles to and from work that you will have to drive which also includes taking care of other business which includes driving.
    If you total driving miles per week is over 100 miles. You must buy the car with best warranty.
    The car that has the best warranty in America today is the General Motors Car.
    The car that has Best Reliability NOW in America Today is the General Motors Car.
    General Motors backed their automobiles reliability with a 100000 Miles or Five Years which ever one comes first. General Motors said If you encounter any problem with-in the warranty time or period You can return this car to any General Motors Dealers No Question Asked. A General Motors Warranty Paper that was Posted on a car on 08/18/09 states that General Motors Will Pay 100% For The Parts and The Dealer Will Pay 100% For The Labor. They will even give you a car to use if you had purchase your automobile brand new wild they are working on your car. Use General Motors Automobile have the same 100000 miles Warranty. If you encounter any problem with your automobile you can return it to any General Motors Dealers No Question Asked.
    If you are the first owner of your automobile and you are selling that automobile to someone, you can also sell that person the General Motors Manufacture Warranty That Comes With The Car.
    General Motors said that they make the Warranty Policy so that the Customers Are Protected in simple terms if you return you car to a General Motors Dealer. The Dealer cannot deny you or dictate to you any warranty policy. If your car has warranty the General Motors Dealer have to repair this car for free.
    Asked Yourself A question: When you buy Toyota even if you had warranty on the car or any other make car if you encounter a problem with these other manufactures WHO WILL HAVE TO PAY MONEY OUT FROM THEIR POCKETS TO REPAIR THEIR AUTOMOBILE? THE ANSWER IS YOU.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It sounds like you believe that the company which offers the longest warranty has the best deal for the consumer. But GM's 100,000 mile warranty expires in 5 years; and the average car in the U.S. is driven 12,000 miles a year. This means that most GM warranties will expire when the car has only 60,000 miles on it. For that reason; GM's warranty is not as good as Chrysler's, Hyundai's, or Ford's; because Chrysler now warranties their engine, transmission, and drive system for UNLIMITED MILEAGE, with NO TIME LIMIT. That means the Chrysler warranty will NEVER EXPIRE; no matter how long you keep the car, or how far you drive it. Isn't that a better deal??!!! And Hyundai's warranty is good for 100,000 miles or TEN YEARS; which is TWICE as long as GM's. Even Ford's warranty is good for 70,000 miles or 6 years; which for the average driver is still a year longer than GM's.

    But back to your seemingly absolute faith in GM's 'advanced technology' and good will about their "no questions asked" warranty policies. Have you ever heard of Dex Cool coolant? Dex Cool was a long life coolant which GM developed in the early 1990's. They REQUIRED it to be used in every vehicle which originally came with it; in order for the warranty to remain valid. But it eventually turned out that the advanced technology chemicals in GM's Dex Cool coolant were attacking the advanced technology silicone rubber intake manifold gaskets that GM was using in their motors. And the result was that the advanced technology radiators and cooling systems were becoming plugged up with brown sludge; and causing the engines to overheat and blow head gaskets; and the damage was sometimes so severe that it required the entire engine to be replaced. This problem affected thousands and thousands of vehicles that GM built for more than ten years. But GM refused to admit there was any problem. Finally, when enough people became aware of this situation, they contacted lawyers and filed the LARGEST CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT IN HISTORY against GM. The courts eventually forced GM to pay for the damages to all those motors; but GM's lawyers negotiated a sliding scale of compensation, based on the age of the vehicle. The result was that owners of vehicles made as recently as 2001 are only receiving $80 for repairs to their car that often cost $800 or more. And GM still never admitted any fault in the case.

    But perhaps you dismiss that incident as an isolated example; which is not really representative of GM. So here's another one to broaden the picture: In 1999, GM introduced a new small block V-8 engine of 4.8 liters. This engine was designed with restricted coolant flow to the cylinder heads; in order to achieve greater fuel efficiency and lower emissions. It became the standard engine in many Chevy pickup trucks. And it turned out that this engine has an oil sludge problem; just like the Toyotas that you think are such an example of poor engineering. Why do you ignore the GM oil sludge problem; and write as if Toyota is the only company that has such a problem? And why do you write as if GM has the best warranty; when two other manufacturers have better warranties than GM? Who do you think you're kidding???
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Actually, this is not a topic about what car to buy, it's a topic available to people who have questions about any sort of problems or repairs for their 07 Camrys.

    Let me suggest you use one or more of the search features on the sidebar to find better topics for your decision-making process. I suggest you start by going to the Automotive News board from the Browse by Board feature and have a look at the topics there. I think you'll find several of interest to you.

    Best of luck to you.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning to All:

    (Some thoughts to share with the group!)

    My 2007 Camry was purchased new from a dealer in Northern N.J. I have all my service done at the selling dealer. (I even purchase my tires from the dealer.) The vehicle now has almost 52,000 miles on it, and the only thing that has been serviced under the extended warranty was the exterior oil line. (Since I am constantly on road trips I had this line replaced as preventive maintenance.)

    As you can see from my other postings I am very concerned with preventive maintenance. I will spend a little extra money to have a dependable vehicle. (My choice.) My vehicle is my office!

    I never had the transmission issue that you read about on this board. (This does not translate into Toyota not having a problem, but I believe that some of the stories on this board are "driver related," ------ and I believe that the number of units that have this issue are small! ----- REMEMBER: ---- this is a drive by wire vehicle, so as such, the shifting characteristics are different! ----- Drive by wire vehicles DO NOT respond well to "aggressive driving!" ) ------- Today because of the technology, you need to put an extended manufacturer's warranty on the vehicle for the maximum number of years and mileage. (My Toyota has a top-of-the-line extended warranty with a "0" deductible!) ----- Parts and labor are just TOOOOOOO expensive to be "self-insured!" In addition, you need to use the dealer for regular service in order to keep your service records in one place. Should something happen there is no issue with regards to collecting service receipts. (I would never have my vechicle service at any of the "quick change oil & filter stores" or a department store. There is simply no way to control the quality of the work and the materials used in the service. Then if something occurs you are caught between the store, the dealer and the warranty!)

    My prior vehicle was a 2003- 4 cylinder Honda Accord. Many people believe that Honda produces a high quality vehicle. Once my Honda reached 50,000 miles the extended warranty put in $3,000.00 + dollars worth of repair, (AC Compressor, Power Window regulator drivers side. Cat Converter, Motor Mounts, Radio Display ----- etc)

    Most likely, I will purchase another Camry on or about December 2010, and I will purchase it from the same selling / servicing dealer. I will also get a "top-of-the-line Toyota extended warranty for the maximum mileage and years. --- If something happens to the vehicle, Toyota and the dealer will make the necessary repairs and I will be driving a Toyota Loaner vehicle. --------- If something happens on the road I have my extended warranty to fall back on and I will continue my trip with a Toyota Loaner from that dealer.

    Any car company can produce some units with problems. I see this everyday in the boating industry. Not all marine engines are perfect. I have been told that there is a 1% issue with all marine engines. When this happens, the manufacturer simply ships an engine to the dealer and the problem is solved. That is simply the nature of the business. ------ Sometimes I think that we all tend to "blow things out of proportion"! ------- No manufacturer wants to produce a vehicle with problems. This simple hurts their business image. -------- Sometimes customers are their own worse enemy. They attack the service person at the dealership and then they expect to be treated in a professional manner! -------- After my vehicle is serviced, I send a "hand written thank-you note" to the Service Advisior, Service Manager and the General Manager. In that note I thank them and the service staff for their help, concern and professionalism. I go our of my way to make people feel important and appreciated! ---- When I present my vehicle for service, they also make me feel important. ----------- (What goes around comes around in life!)

    Just some thoughts to consider!

    Best regards to all!
    Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "-----Drive by wire vehicles DO NOT respond well to "aggressive driving.!"---"

    Gee, glad you told me that, otherwise I would have NEVER guessed it as my '99 911/996 didn't seem to exhibit that trait, nor does my current '01 911/996 C4. Seemed to be quite competitive even on the track, driving AGGRESSIVELY, at Daytona.

    While DBW can be, and is, a tremendous technological design and is quite useful for many reasons, no idle bypass, simplified cruise control, etc, it can also be used to hide a few SINS.

    Toyota is using it, has been using it, to hide a huge sin, the lack of a satisfactory, reasonable, transaxle design.

    Between my daughter and myself we had driven our '00 Chrysler T&C almost 100,000 miles before inadvertently discovering that it's panic braking capability is seriously flawed. So some flaws can exist throughout the product line and yet not be discovered except under highly unusual circumstances, unique to the individual driver, even.

    Google for:

    Chrysler panic braking "very large effort"
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I too agee, as my wifes STS, my Chevy trucks since they first put it on my 84 Chevy Diesel has had NO problems. I too was very hesitant in 84 to get that truck but my dealer said if I wasn't satified with it he would buy it back for the selling price the first 90 days. I had it a lot longer than 90 days. Only problems with that truck was someone ran into the fiberglass fender on the dual and fuel problems at 30 below. But I had no business being out in weather that cold. :shades:
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I guess we're just polar opposites! I recommend (and practice) avoiding the dealer entirely except for warranty work. I do all the routine maintenance myself except for jobs above my skill level, patience, or lack of suitable tools or equipment, in which case I pay a reputable independent shop to do it (not the Quickie Lubes or tire or department store chains). I keep all receipts for parts and service plus maintain a detailed log (electronic now) of all work done.

    This has worked quite well for my two current Camrys, one a 2005 XLE with just over 40,000 miles, the other a 2004 LE with nearly 64,000 miles. The '05 has not had any problems of any kind, just routine oil changes, tire rotations, filter and wiper blade replacements, plus two replacement tires. I have paid zero for service, only a small amount for parts -- see below about the tires.

    The 2004 had one recall for possible mis-installed side curtains (mine turned out to be fine) and one other minor problem which I haven't bothered to fix -- a minor "stiction" in the steering when making sharp left hand turns under about 25 mph.

    Unfortunately, the car was sideswiped by a hit-and-run driver while it was parked, requiring a replacement quarter panel, rear bumper cover, and related repairs (plus much repainting) in early 2006. Then a year ago in June it was pummeled by a rare hailstorm (for our area), requiring paintless dent removal plus a replacement trunk lid (and more painting). The paint work wasn't satisfactory, so my insurance company paid for much more extensive paint work to get the car in its now very presentable state. The dealer's platinum warranty wouldn't have helped in either case, so I did have to pay the insurance deductible in each incident (but not for the do-over). This car has had professional maintenance for a few small items like brake fluid replacement.

    I'm lucky in that I have access to a tire mounting machine at my workplace, and I made sure to learn how to use it. We also have a balancing machine, so I only have to pay for tires -- on my 3rd set on the 2004, only 2 new tires so far on the 2005.

    My former ‘97 Camry was part of the “sludger” series. I never had a lick of sludge, but my valve stem seals started to fail at 57K miles (evidenced by a puff of blue smoke on cold startup), just before the 60K powertrain warranty was about to expire. I took my log of oil change records to the local dealer (not the original selling dealer), and they took care of the problem without a hassle. It would have cost $800-$1,000.

    This dealer has many "packages" that pad the service intervals with all kinds of added work and magic chemicals not recommended by Toyota. Plus it has a “Tires for Life” program for cars bought new there, as my 2 current Camrys were. Problem is you have to pay for all maintenance at the dealer AND follow the dealer’s recommendations for tire rotations, balancing, and alignment, which of course are way beyond what the manufacturer calls for. You end up paying for the “free” tires many times over. No thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I personally have seen no downside to drive-by-wire in my Camrys, and it would seem to be beneficial by eliminating complexity. IMO, it will be great when electric brakes can be perfected -- no more hydraulic fluid to get contaminated or require changing, and no more brake lines/hoses to corrode (steel) or split (rubber).

    As far as the transaxles go, I have no problems whatsoever with the 4-cylinder, 4-speed auto in my 2004. What I don't like in the 2005 with its 4-cylinder, 5-speed combo is its tendency to shift too soon into too high a gear (lugging) in city driving, which is especially apparent when going up hills.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning (wwest)
    I was simply suggesting that some drivers, (who have an older vehicle without DBW), might see / experience an "operating difference" with this new technology. My Camry handles differently in the snow because of DBW than did my 2003 Honda Accord!
    Best regards!
    Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Oh..., Yes, TC, Traction Control, in my '01 F/awd RX300 with "hard" coupled throttle valve must use fuel starvation via EFI/SFI in order to enforce engine dethrottling when wheelslip/spin develops, probably the same for VSC.

    I would imagine the fuel cut using EFI/SFI had to be pretty much total in order to avoid detonation whereas with DBW dethrottling can be moderated, modulated.

    So yes, likely a very noticeable VSC/TC difference when moving from one to the other.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    My wifes 2005 Camry needs front brake pads soon. Ive changed them myself on other cars. Would this cars pads be similiar to do? Do the calipers come off the same way? (two 14mm bolts?) Can you still push the pistons back into the calipers with a large C clamp? Thanks for any replys!
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hey, kneis-whatever.......definitely GO for it on your own; don't hire a mechanic. If you've done it before on ANY car....it's a piece of cake on the Camry.
    And don't buy the pads from your Toyota dealer......aftermarket is fine.
    Good luck (not that you'll need it!)
  • lindi1lindi1 Member Posts: 2
    Bought my 2007 Camry LE used last September. A month ago I noticed a terrible, growing smell and took it to my local Toyota Dealer. There was no dampness on the floor or carpets, but when they took the seats out and removed the carpets, the "jute" or carpet pad was soaked with clear water and under that black mold. At first they said this was a design flaw in that the foam blown on under the jute actually retained water causing the mold. The only difference is that they usually found this on the floor behind the passenger side and mine was behind the driver's seat. They couldn't find what had leaked, but suspected it was a plugged A/C vent in the back seat. 3 days later they called to say their mold "expert" found what looked like spilled cheese dip that was moldy so "someone" must have spilled that to create this problem. However, my husband had been there when they removed everything and saw and felt the clear water soaking the jute, which now they say must have been water spilled as well....but HOW could either cheese dip or water be spilled UNDER the carpet and jute without evidence of the spill on top? NOTE: Their "expert" was actually an expert in CLEANING up mold, not identifying the type of mold or source. We don't have any little kids. We don't eat cheese dip. No one eats in the back seat or even sits there. We haven't spilled anything. But of course, this means that the $1500 and 3 weeks they've been working on this mystery won't be covered on our warranty!!! Has ANYONE else had this problem?

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    All sunroofs will leak, even closed. Inside the roof area there are several drain tubes/hoses to drain away the rain that gets through the sunroof seals, it is not altogether unusual for these to get plugged up with debris that blows in when the sunroof is open.

    One of our cars had a propensity for accumulating water in the exact areas you describe, behind each of the front seats. I decided to replace the sunroof seals to try and solve the problem. In the process just last week I vacuumed that area, sunroof retraction area, of a lot of debris and used weed-eater line to clear the four drains, one of the drains was quite thoroughly blocked.
  • dlrevdlrev Member Posts: 11
    I bought a used I4 automatic the beginning of July and so far am only getting about 17-18 mpg with 100% city driving. This seems pretty low to me.

    Air filter is recently replaced, tire pressure is checked and normal. I am at a loss to explain the low mpg since I drive fairly carefully (avoid sudden accelerations, etc.) Anyone have any idea why it might be low like this? I searched the forum and saw a couple users mentioned "TSB for engine and transmission performance", is that something I should look into?

    Actually, one other thing I noticed, it seems like there is like a very slight engine braking when going 30+ mph in drive. It's barely perceptible -- I asked someone riding in the car with me if they noticed it and they did not (maybe I am just imagining things :confuse:)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,709
    Make sure TSB# 0068-08 has been done. It will not change MPG, though.

    I can get only 17 mpg in the city, or even less (0 mpg at traffic lights), but I can also get 31 highway. My mpg is fine, but my point is you need to try a long trip on a level highway at a constant speed (no more than 70) and I bet your MPG is fine.
  • dlrevdlrev Member Posts: 11
    Are you driving the 4 or 6 cylinder Camry? I thought the 4 cyl is supposed to get better city mpg, around 21 at least according to fueleconomy.gov
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